richdraper
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Everything posted by richdraper
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Jaguar Infrastructure? (Past and Present)
richdraper replied to richdraper's topic in Jaguar Owners Lounge
one of the many reasons you ended up with 'Monday' and 'Friday' engines. id be interested to know who had the first fully automated engine production. i know Fiat had the FIRE (Fully Integrated Robotised Engine) motor that was put in all their little models (769cc-1.4l) from 1985-ish, and its still used in the 500 today. -
Jaguar Infrastructure? (Past and Present)
richdraper replied to richdraper's topic in Jaguar Owners Lounge
Thanks Joe.. in part your post over in x-type forum sharing this table prompted me to make this post :) -
Today i learned the 'X' was built in Halewood. I've spent more years than i care to admit, wrongly, thinking us midlands lot were the ones responsible for building Jags. I live within urinating distance of the, now leveled, Browns Lane Assembly Plant in Coventry. I've driven past Whitley more times than i care to remember (something to do with engines, although they have just build a new plant in Wolverhampton for engines). If anyone has any info/links on what the different plants do/did I'd be interested, especially round the midlands, specifically in Coventry. History is brilliant, love the history of whatever is parked on my drive (really enjoyed the one below from the 1961) Father inlaw used to be on their payroll but its very difficult to gleam any info out of him about his time there. i do know he used to test drive for them back in the days of the 4.6 XKs and such, also know he spent sometime on the track at Solihull. (doesnt really make up for the many years he spent there lol)
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What Lambda fault is she holding Pat?
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SAJ A...'D'...531X1...'W'...C15545 'D' States AWD... RHD model 'W' States 3.0l V6 pretty sure they were all Ford engines.
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Battery is a CR3032 pictures are worth a thousand words...
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Hi Patrick, Welcome to JOC! Yes there is. Make sure you have all the keys you want to pair with the vehicle available. Open drivers door. Turn ignition switch between Position 1 and 2... four times. You should hear a confirmation chime. Turn Ignition off and remove the key. Press any button on fob within ten seconds (preferably 'Unlock') You should, again, hear a confirmation chime Other key fobs can be paired by pressing any button (again preferably 'Unlock') You should hear a confirmation chime for each additional fob. I believe a maximum of four fobs can be paired per vehicle. Close the door. Confirm operation of paired fobs.
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I'd, personally, start with the drivers door, since its the one giving you jip.
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window issue sounds like its a regulator fault. Window could have popped off the regulator mechanism (unlikely but possible) regulators are cheap-ish... this link gives an idea of money, part that failed, and also a partnumber so you can do your own research http://www.xjkltd.co.uk/jaguar-x-type-left-hand-rear-window-regulator-and-motor-electric/
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you say a rogue tappet, i hope it is, for your sake... please get a professional opinion, before taking anything posted on a public forum as a concrete diagnosis but it sounds to me like its 'knocked a bottom end out' by this i mean damaged the crank bearings... certainly not uncommon with the 2.7, for some reason the 2.7 suffers dreadfully with diesel getting into the oil due to regen procedure coupled with non regular oil checks and 'extended' servicing periods. this thins the oil sufficently that although the pressure is there the volume of oil is not. this leads to crank big ends/journals hitting each other which is most probably whats happened, in my experience... You'd be looking at about £2-3k for replacement unless your in a position to do it yourself. this is because the range rover guys seem to like to over pay for everything, unfortunately they had these 2.7s as an option sources:- father inlaw recently screwed his 2.7 s-type in almost exactly the same way. there are thought to be many reasons why this happens, in reality nobody is really 100% sure. there also appears to be widely differing views on how to stop it from happening. The 2.7, in my experience, certainly wasnt the strongest motor in JLRs lineup. whatever the outcome I'm truely sorry for your loss, i hate engine deaths, and especially when they happen so regularly like on the 2.7
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Also welcome to the forum...
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1 & 2 are possibly cause and effect. 3 might be easy. 1) describe the behaviour. and what you can do to replicate it. Something strange i found with mine is that, from outside, if i open just the drivers door (1 press on the remote) i have to pull the door lever twice. When opening the car (2 presses on remote) it opens with just 1 pull. Strange behaviour but the dude before me says its always done it so with it being my first jag ive thought nothing of it, its not a massive issue but will need looking at soon i think 2) does it say which door is ajar? my 1st thought is you have a door/boot/bonnet open check to make sure all are properly closed and recheck. 2nd thought is possibly a microswitch on the drivers door (since this is the one your having trouble with) isn't being actuated. To check get yourself a small screwdriver, open the door put the keys into the ignition... turn ign on. with the door open manipulate the lock mechanism with your screw driver. There's 3 positions of the door catch Open (1st image), 'On the latch' (2nd image), Closed (3rd image). you will get the door ajar warning if the latch is in any other position but Closed. if the door warning is on with the latch in the closed position then you will more than likely have to strip the door to find and fix, the microswitch may have become mislocated. If the warning goes out, then it may be an adjustment issue. you can adjust the closed door position with the catch on the B-Pillar. only minor adjustments are needed to the catch to make it sit right. so don't adjust by large amounts to begin with :) Other door positions are exactly the same so you can check them all using this method, to see which one is giving the fault... also dont forget to pull either the door lever on on the inside or outside to open the lock before closing the door again. probably wont do much damage unless you slam it but makes a horrible noise ;) 3) hopefully something simple... does the window work on the window controls both on the drivers door control and passenger door control? I'm thinking maybe if you've had people in the back and then knocked the rear window 'isolate button' then it renders the rear controls inoperative until you press the isolate button again.
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the thing is that, away from 'perfomance circles', the way to get your brake effort up is just to use big rotors. The X was probably designed late 90's as a mid-range saloon car. there wasn't a huge need to have multi-pot calipers on anything that 'shouldn't be driven in a sporty manor' and at that time the price of big calipers wouldnt translate as 'economical' to either dealer nor buyer, so it was left off the X. The Alfa would have had 5years worth of tech develop before it was designed and judging by the other models at the time (3.2 V6 Breras, 3.2 V6 GT, the big heavy diesel and 4x4 systems used in the 159) there was need for some serious stopping power up front, under the 17inch wheels these 4 pots are TIGHT, the 18s were a big money upgrade, theyd already gone for the big rotor approach, and then ran out of space so the only thing to do was go for more effective calipers. In all fairness, the X is no slouch in the way it stops but will always pale in comparison to more modern motors of similar class. Mostly due to the era it was built and cost effectiveness. if you wanted a sporty jag you saved up for a bit longer and got the XK... which i know has some big ol' anchors bolted on it.
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goodness knows how old it was, but it was 'slightly' black (not as black as it would be if seals had failed but ill keep my eye on it) and 'slightly' transluscent... It was well overdue a change
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right, so, mystery solved... Fluid change fixed the issue. I'd been driving the Alfa for a few days previous to doing brake work on the Jag. Our '07 plate 159 with 4 pot calipers on the front is pretty capable of popping your eyes out of their sockets if you really stamp on the pedal. The jag, whilst not feeling like its actually doing a lot in comparision, is now strong enough to at least trigger the ABS on the front wheels in the dry so i'm happy with it for now. After all there's not a lot more you can ask of a wheel if its having ABS triggers. (i wasnt even getting abs triggers in the wet before fluid change) I'm sure when its time for discs and pads ill be putting brembos on and actually running through the sliders, if not replacing them. It may all become little sharper than it is now, but it does pull itself up a damn sight quicker than it used to. thanks @cubist for your input. :)
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Sounds like your alternator is possibly on its way out or more specifically... the pulley... I'm led to believe they are overrunning pulleys, of some description (theres 3 different types use in the industry, I don't know which the 2.5 V6 is). £400 is really steep for an alternator replacement imo. You can pick remanufactured units up for under £150. The pulleys don't appear to be available separately although i haven't spent a lot of time looking. I've had this on one occasion with mine seems to have been a bit of a glitch. The alternator is 120amp so should be able to keep up with any loads you put on at idle. As Joe said check battery voltage a) when off, b) when running, and c) with loads, when running. I've found mine settles at about 12.4/12.6v if left overnight, running it fluctuates anywhere between 13.5v and 15v bear in mind a top end is generally considered to be around 14.2v-14.7v. Running with loads the alternator should still be able to charge the battery at at the very least 13.2v. i dont believe its uncommon to see 15v when the alternator is cold... Alternators have a sweet spot for efficiency, if you drop out of that window weird readings can be encountered but I'd be worried if it's throwing a battery light even once. If you want more accurate readings I can get them for you tomorrow extra reading:- http://www.daycoproducts.com/what-are-oaps-and-oads-and-how-do-they-fail
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thanks joe they are good prices if they are, infact, genuine. both look like 'FoMoCo' from the pics. Might be worth sending an email
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new plugs come 'pre-gapped', so i know they're good, and they were almost indistinguishable by eye from the old ones. ive driven a little more today and in high gears and low revs (5th picking up from 25-30mph) there's the odd misfire. like 1 or 2... not enough to cause any lack of power or an EML. if it worsens im probably gonna throw a coil pack on her.
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Fixed... Relatively cheap too. I managed to find 6x NGK Platinums shipped on Next Day Special Delivery with change from £30. I'd scoured the interwebs for coilpacks and found nothing i could afford just yet... OEM Denso are no longer manufactured by the looks of it, there was plenty of lesser quality parts, but i'm of the school of 'buy cheap, buy twice'... NGK coil packs are on my radar a) to match the plugs, b) because they're a 'premium brand' at middle of the road money (around £50 per unit) Luckily, no coil packs were needed, just a set of plugs... On my initial test drive (nearly 10miles round trip on a mixture of roads) she hasn't faulted at all. (Bear in mind that before plug replacement she was missing at idle, I'm happy for now but there'll always be that niggle in the back of my mind and the NGK Coilpack number on a post it note somewhere in my tool box.) if anyone wants a guide for this let me know ill put one together as a PDF and post The plugs i took out were tatty, really tatty. I was lead to believe they had been changed around Aug/Sept last year, hence why i instantly suspected coilpacks, these look like they've been in for about 3 years. Plug gap looks excessive from this picture but side by side with new plugs and there's not a lot of difference to the eye.
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Hi Martin, Yep, ran perfectly before hose usage. i too have never had a problem with hosing down/jet washing engines and bays, until this. Today is the day of reckoning, as soon as this rain shifts ill be making a start, ill probably try to document it and put together a 'how to' for others. Plan is to replace all plugs (because i dont know their history, and its a PITA to do it at a later date considering how much i have to take off to get to the packs) shift the 2 suspect coils to the front bank of cylinders, hopefully will just be a 'bit of wet' and will dry out nicely, worst case it will cost me a couple of coil packs. but being on the front bank makes replacement a hell of a lot easier.
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As some of you may have seen I've 'developed' a misfire. Saturday i bled my brakes and obviously, i elbowed the bottle of brake fluid off the front of the engine bay! A good effort i must admit, if a little clumsy. I hosed (NOT presure washed) the liquid from wherever it landed.. some on my battery box cover, some on the wiring looms and hoses above the gearbox mostly down the front of the bumper though. Ever since then shes suffering a misfire. diagnostics report P0300, P0301, P0303, P1313 & P1316 all stored at ign on. So theres a 'random/multiple misfire', 'Cyl. 1' and 'Cyl. 3 misfire', respectively P1313 and P1316 relate to incorrect emissons caused by misfire. wiring harness (the one with the service bulletin) is now dry and no amount of manipulation makes the misfire any better when the engine is running. so im thinking a may have a) got water in the multiplugs, b) got water down the plug holes somehow?? c) goosed 1 or more coilpacks. will be attempting to strip out 1 and 3 this weekend, ill check the wiring that runs over the rocker covers. do i need to worry about inlet manifold seals or can i reuse? as a final note, whats the significance of a flashing EML, (we all know by now what a static one means) any and all ideas/input warmly received, as usual.
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I've got P1301,1303, and 1316... all misfire faults... 'random', 'cyl 3' and 'within 1000revs after start' respectively. i need something a little more bullet proof than the WiFi/BT plug in dongles, i got it to work with an 7 year old tablet but no joy on my HTC... that's been part of the headache, i've lost my OBD, only have k-line USB Lead. the first 'spare' £100 i get will be going on a mongoose lead and the Jag Diag kit. its impossible/incredibly time consuming to diagnose accurately these days without good diag kit. i'm having to run it this week and just edge my bets with taking out a cat (every bone in my body tells me not to do it, alas, i have no choice) took her out earlier on and she still sputters a little bit. im hoping shell be fine cruising up and down the M6 for 4 days. this starting to go a lil off topic though... ill report back with brake findings, i might start another thread for misfire if it doesnt clear up this week. like i said pretty sure theres water somewhere, but time will tell.
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X-Type Exterior Window Seal Trim?
richdraper replied to si_the_music_guy's topic in Jaguar X-Type Club
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-JAGUAR-X-TYPE-SALOON-WAIST-SEAL-SET-DOOR-MOULDINGS/162912040229?hash=item25ee507525:m:mCzlaBA-1lfDS9zws7hqzSw £35 each... not an unreasonable amount for Genuine Jag bits considering EPC shows them at about £68 each for the rears -
Hi Steve, thanks for the welcome. Searching through the forum there's a lot of noise about sliders, so figured it might be a good place to start, from my experience (including my own mistakes) a lot of it is down to the incorrect grease used when rebuilding. There's a few instances of swollen slider rubbers that I've found, in s-type threads which, by the way, is almost solely caused by incorrect grease... You're right I'm no stranger to getting my hands a bit grubby ;) owned Fiats and Alfas for a shade over 11 years, and I'm a mechanic by trade. Whilst i know a lot more than most, i know next to nothing about Jags, everyday is a school day and this weekend the lil kitty has been tying my patience. Trying to source the cause of an intermettent misfire in between housework today (I'm aware of the wiring loom service bulletin Jag released) kinda hoping i just got the plug wet although with it being on pot 3, i.e. the middle one on the rear bank, hidden under the inlet and genrally well protected, I'm clutching at straws and not wanting to get into wiring too much because of work tomorrow.
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Evening all, Can someone explain to me how sharp the brakes on the x-type *should* be!? I needed to pull her up a little quicker than normal thanks to some idiot cutting from the outside lane to the slip road of the M6 the other day, and ill be honest... i was scared no ABS actuation in the dry which i would have expected considering how hard i stamped on the pedal. The V6 has 300mm discs on the front and 280mm on the back, I'd expect it to stop pretty sharply, even though they're not particularly focused calipers (i.e single piston with a slider arrangement... her car is an Alfa 159 with standard Brembo 4-pots and it stops incredibly well with 280mm on the front). I bled the brakes today, its marginally better and i do mean marginally! Will be checking out Vac system tomorrow as apparently the little one way valve degrades. thinking it might be sliders a) starting to seize b) seized already. That's one for another day (maybe next weekend) though. discs are in 'relatively' good nick although now i'm thinking about it, the rears are only 'semi shiny' on the outer surface and i do get a 'mooing' sometimes when reversing from the NSR... which suggests partially seized sliders to me. any thoughts/experiences/advice is always warmly recieved!
