richdraper

as title really had it going on for a while, though it was interior squeak, resided to the fact that its suspension. video link here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w1sQzsMVQEqH_bCJmkr0aQuvAdF_vBZIBQ it does this chirping on <40mph roads with even the tiniest bump, larger undualtions dont cause it to squeak. i cant replicate it by bouncing the suspension heart is telling me it something connected to the wheel. I'm thinking upper/lower control arm, outer bush... as it sounds too 'squeaky' to be a hub carrier bush. has anyone had similar, if so what fixed it for you?

Evening Jerry, 1 faulty turbo is bad luck, 2 faulty turbos is a million to one (maybe why the supplier wont honour the 2nd return). imho I'm making a couple of assumptions here, because i dont own a diesel Jag, but i do have a diesel on the drive. In my experience a vast majority of Car & Van turbo control systems are managed with a vacuum system, some are electric (BMW) some are compressed air (generally heavy commercial/PSV). Have your garage ran full test of the vacuum system? would expect to see around 800-1000mbar of vacuum (600-750 mm/Hg) at engine idle from the pump and throughout the 'feed side' of the components (brake booster, EGR & boost control solenoid). My initial thought is first and foremost the vacuum pipes feeding the various components, if theyre split/mislocated/in the wrong position on your control valves you loose vacuum/vacuum control. Secondly i'd suspect the boost control solenoid (i know Alfa/Fiat 1.9JTDm and Vauxhalls/Saab 1.9 CDTI, all the same engine by the way, all had issues with boost control solenoids) this is the bit that actually controls actuation of the turbo. ive had them piped up wrong and had full boost until a certain rev range then the ECU would cut fuel and go into limp home mode. engine off and on again and it would boost again until a given set of circumstances, in my case full boost pulls over 5 seconds in gears higher than 3rd (i dont think 1st & 2nd were tall enough to allow full boost for long enough to trigger the fuel cut) Third id be testing the MAP Sensor (should read between 900-1100mbar, engine not running, upto about 2600-3000mbar on full boost). last thing i would suspect is turbo itself. its not unheard of but quite rare to have one go down. Lets try and get a Jag Grin on yer face

Afternoon, Does anyone know who supplied OEM, to Jag, for the suspension components? I know, from experience, that my Alfa Romeo 159 uses TRW and Lemforder for most if not all of its suspension, LuK for its clutch/flywheel assemblies and Brembo for its brake hardware, BEHR for its cooling and a boatload of Bosch for its electricals. I'm looking to throw some ARB Drop Links at the Jag, obviously im not prepared to pay Jag prices, if i can find 'OE supplier' parts for a quarter of the price.

😳 'improved fuel efficiency' lols... id hate to see what it struggled to achieve without VVT i stand corrected, not for the first time and most certainly not for the last. i still think its underpowered 😉

i've got one parked on the drive and i think its pretty safe to say a big nope... power is ridiculously linear, and it's a properly lazy map on it too (only creating <200bhp) its my only gripe with it if i'm honest, could have been made to feel a little pokier in the higher rev range, maybe chucked on a charger or something like its big brothers.

Hi Les, Roger raises a valid point in this linked post about chasing random faults here there and everywhere. Intermittent issues with flashing glowplug lights and such. Auto boxes *may* look at crank speed to judge shift behaviour. Which *could* be why youre experiencing weird issues. Might be worth checking before spending 100s at specialists

PM Sent

Nevermind... fixed it... clutch bleed solved it. must have sucked some air in last time... If mods would be so kind... Maybe press delete for this thread 🙂

Alright you lot, Some days i find the Jaaaag a little difficult to drive smoothly, now I'm pretty sure its because of the clutch. I have quite a 'wide' bite zone on the pedal and I've never come across this kind of symptom before so wondering if anyone can help. With the clutch down the slightest lift of the pedal and it will start to bite, and at the opposite end of the scale if i breath on the pedal it seems to start to disengage quite readily. We're talking an inch or 2 at either end of the pedal travel. My amazing photoshop skills have enabled me to portray this in a visual representation for your viewing pleasure. As usual any help/ideas/input warmly recieved. Motor has done a little under 95k miles so I'm fully expecting to be putting a clutch in it whilst I have her, but this (to me) isn't worn clutch symptoms, I'd expect high bite point to be a worn clutch. I'd also not expect these symptoms after recently bleeding the clutch (symptoms were the same before and after clutch bleed by the way, I hoped a bleed would remedy it).

assuming everything else was straight and secure. Cam Washer could have moved/ been set incorrectly previous to your ownership. (as pictured below) or something was amiss with hub Carrier (also pictured below) not unheard of i can recall at least one issue with the hub carrier on this forum in the past few months, cant be an isolated case...

pretty sure mine is on standard 5-spoke 18s... https://photos.app.goo.gl/jPN7NaEd3znPvYsa7

I hope you get it sorted bud... It's always a shame when you throw some much money at something for it not to be fixed. Sometimes the basics are overlooked and you get transfixed on an issue that isn't there. If you've done so much work to the DPF and Differential Pressure Sensor then you can pretty much rule them out. In all honesty (and I know it doesn't help you now) personally I would have suspected it wasnt the DPF before doing all the intake and injector testing. Either way I don't know your mechanics reasons for swapping the DPF and sensor so without actually knowing what has been diagnosed it's very easy for me to sit here and criticise. It's not unheard of for DPFs to require replacement but their price makes me kinda wanna rule out any other stuff before hand. Good luck!

There's all sorts of other reasons a DPF wont regen, do you know if any have been explored? namely charge air system and Injectors... From memory turbo actuation has to be behaving itself, you have to have sufficient vacuum created from the pump, which has to pass through the boost control solenoid sufficiently to actuate both the VGT and wastegate vacuum pressure cells any leakage in the pipework and/or cells will shut the ECU down from finding a 'required condition' status it needs to attempt regen... resulting in premature filling of DPF... Confirm boost control solenoid is piped up correctly too thats a more than common oversight, ive done it myself. Mechanical boost leakage (for example: hole in the intercooler, non-air tight inlet manifold, leaky boost pipe) can lead to the ECU shutting down regen capability too because the engine THINKS its getting good boost but the DPF is reporting silly pressure values due to a leak. post boost sensor. Boost sensor/MAP Sensor could also be reporting different values although within expected tollerance it could be out (hence it may not throw its own fault because its within tollerance). those values compared to the DPF Values could be shutting the ECU down. MAF sensor could be at fault for the same reason Lastly Injection system has to be upto par and no excessive back leakage from injectors. if you do have a leaky injector it may not show as excess soot out of the tailpipe. Theres been a few injector issues i know about recently both on here and people i know who have the diesels. I'd suggest looking at live injector correction values at idle, it would usually give a good indication if the ECU is dialing back some or overfueling others to compensate for a dicky injector, also take a look at Manifold pressures aswell as 'Desired' against 'Actual' boost figures would instantly show a dodgey/incorrectly installed boost control solenoid. MAP sensors read between 900-1100mbar with engine off this is normal, and you shouldn't be seeing much over 2600-3000mbar i wouldnt have thought (3000mbar is 2bar of boost and thats a lot in a standard trim car engine). hope this helps to separate the forest from the trees a little bit.

Hi Mike, Welcome to the forum, 1) Initially sounds like air in the system. When cold and with the engine running, check the level in the reservoir. if its low top it up if its not then its on to the next thing. As the steering fluid heats up/thins out it tends to 'hide' issues that are there from cold. With heat the oil expands so the level in the reservoir rises possibly masking a low oil level when cold. You should really always check steering fluid and Auto box Fluid when its cold. Any 'Dextron 3' ATF is fine. The system takes a total of 1.2lts. 2) Follow the pipes from the reservoir as best you can and with someone helping you get them to turn the wheel. You would see any vibration in the system accentuated in the rubber portion of the pipes, ensure they're all clipped properly etc. 3) One more thing to check would be top bearings (although I'd expect you to get the issue all the time...) again with someone helping you, engine running, get your helper to turn the steering left and right to recreate the issue, look at or feel the front springs, you'll soon know if there is any notchy-ness in the top bearings. Good Luck!

im gonna keep this one short and sweet so ive got a squeak... but only when the interior is cold, you know first thing in the morning or when the weather is chilly seems to be anything below about 12*C. leave it basking in the sun and its fine, warm weather you'll never hear it. i have no clue what it is... ive tried sitting on the seat and pressing all the trim i can get my hands on but its quite difficult to diagnose given when it happens. has anyone had similar? https://photos.app.goo.gl/9TxVvcnPsYDGQVkk8 suggestions always welcome 🙂

Sensor 2 is the Post-Cat Lambda sensor. Jag Part Number is C2S38497. Jag Price is about £135... but you can pick em up for less than half that https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Jaguar-X-Type-Downstream-Oxy-Sensor-C2S38497/16017007970 fitting 'shouldnt' take anymore than about 30mins, but most places would want to do their own diag so could be looking at an hours labour, plus a diag charge

chances are slim... i had torque reporting 2 coil pack issues. looked into it a little deeper and decided just to throw a set of plugs at her. fixed the issue. i moved the suspect coilpacks to the front facing bank so that i only had to take the air filter off (rather than the whole manifold) if it was a coil pack at fault.

@gainsy73 you say falling apart? do you mean the adjuster mechanism has failed? if so it seems common as muck. im looking into these at somepoint, https://bit.ly/2xCYcXI (ebay link), for my floppy N/S Headlight.

Ok so that makes me question that it may very well not be the glowplugs. Glowplugs only really make a difference to cold start scenarios. I hope its something easy and relatively simple to fix :) report back with what they suggest/ what they find!

I'm not 100% au fait with the particular engine but id expect glow plugs to cost no more than about £50 for a reputable brand and no more than an hours labour to fit. Do the symptoms only happen from cold start or is it every time you start the engine regardless of engine temp? Do you notice an increase in black or blue smoke from the exhaust when experiencing these issues? Also something to bear in mind with laboured starting and lumpy idle is it *could* be Fuel or Air related, my experience with other modern diesels is swirl flaps in the intake, it could be a vacuum control issue where you have a vacuum leak or a mechanical problem but the mechanical issue would tend to keep rough idles and not rectify themselves after 5-10 seconds. Where as a vac leak could perceivably take 5-10secs to pull down to a required 'pressure'. if its fuel related, then it could be a whole miriad of things from a simple Non Return Valve to an Injector. but these are generally few and far between. I think the best thing for you to consider would be to take it to your local diesel specialist and see if they have any suggestions of what it could be before forking out any money for possibly an incorrect diagnosis.

Heard a 'pop'... Lack of Power... whiring noise like a turbo, never heard before... My money is on a boost pipe. I'm 90% sure the diesel was the same engine as the Ford TDCi 'Duratorq' lump (fitted to Mondeos and Transits and a few other models), if so, i've known of at least 5 that blew a boost pipe just in my small circle of friends.

Hi Roy, Welcome to the Forum. if youve come from driving petrols/arent familiar with diesels of this era...Wait for the glowplug light to go out before turning the key to the start position, then it should be almost instant start, if not id be looking at glowplugs with view to replace the set.

yes. buy cheap, buy twice! you can get genuine Jag ones for around £30 if you look hard enough. i had a cheapy cheap ARB droplink a few years ago on my Fiat Stilo, albeit only £3 less than a TRW replacement(who are Suspension OEM for later shape Fiats and Alfas). within 2 WEEKS, it was knocking. I couldnt believe it either. This is now my personal train of thought... I never buy cheap. If i can afford Genuine ill ALWAYS try to buy Genuine, if i cant find Genuine for whatever reason i try to find who was OEM for that particular part. There are a few things that stray from that mentality, but not much. Engine parts are ALWAYS Genuine unless its filtration or Belts then i opt for Mann or Continental. Sparks on all my petrol cars have been NGK produced. Brakes are ALWAYS Brembo or Genuine for the fitting kits/pins etc. Suspension has always been TRW (because ive always owned italian) but the choice is none existent for Jags for some reason, so i dont really know where to look at the moment. Tyres... since the government stopped subsidising cheap tyres i recently put a set of Dunlop Sportmaxx RT2 on the Alfa and i cannot speak highly enough of them. i used cheap tyres because they were perfectly adequate on low powered, aged handling cars that ive owned. i had them on the Alfa, and they were fine until you ran them in the wet, then they turned scary, a mix between the increase in power and weight of the 2.4 diesel in a big saloon was just too much. Dunlops are far better although nearly £500 for a set. This comes up so many times on the forums that I'm on and this isn't aimed nastily at you but... bottom line is you bought a <insert prestige marque here>... treat it like one... if you couldn't afford the bills then you shoulda bought a <insert cheap marque here>. I'm looking at upgrading to the new shape long wheelbase XJR in a few years, i know for a fact that tyres are £700+ and a dealer service is north of £500 and it barely returns 20mpg aswell as being almost impossible to park anywhere due to its length. That's the kind of money a car like that commands, if you're prepared for it it makes it a little more palatable.. to some people its horrifically priced 'for just a car' but you're sitting in £100k+ of 'charged V8 limousine, you cant expect to run it on a shoe string.

Ian, Sorry for late response, you've probably got this sorted now. Hadn't seen your post before today... Apologies, anyway for what its worth... Snapped!!! I'm not even going to ask how, that's a solid effort, well done!! So, new they're horrifically priced (EPC shows £1800) best option would probably be to go for a 2nd hand one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUB-CARRIER-REAR-LEFT-SUSPENSION-ARM-Jaguar-X-Type-2-5-3-0-2001-2007/401247818134?epid=1115898681&hash=item5d6c3bd196:g:ZA0AAOSwq1NZgzG2 also budget for replacement of the bushes... seems silly to fit a 2nd hand arm and not renew the bushes... Jag numbers C2S14739 and C2S14740. Genuine Jag prices are around £20, per bush. puts your total parts spend around £150. if you're fitting yourself... great! if your paying someone... I'd hazard a guess at between £150-200. I've not paid a garage ever for mechanical work, i spend too much money on my tools to pay someone else to do it for me ;) anyone who knows what they're doing should be able to do this in under 2 hours. EPC also makes no mention of saloon or estate but does differentiate between FWD and AWD (because the hole in the hub may be different diameter due to drive shafts on AWD)... there is only diffentiation between chassis numbers, but only one part number valid for order... C2S20029 HTH

what are you classing as 'ripped off' im seeing prices for around £110 (https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/parts/b6ffaeb4-e299-4839-88ec-020b0f632f2d). Which for a genuine jag expansion tank doesnt seem too steep, especially when you take into account what its fitted to...