Rooster210

Very good news Mate, glad to see the awesomeness of the UK doesn't stop at the message forums. A mate of mine from the UK cougar club lives in Nottingham.

Yeah I moved to Georgia in may of last year thinking yay no more snow Im sick if cold. The first snow storm which was around christmas we built a snow man that was about 6 feet tall and the biggest of the pieces was over 3 feet thick. He was in the yard for about 5 days. Now its about 2 or 3 inches of Ice in the yard and our temp high was about 19* F today. But hey 65 predicted for Sunday. Hopefully I can get the parts I need to fix my shifting issue before it drops back to the high 40s for wednesday

No you dont,,,, but man does it help!!!

Im glad you have sun i have snow in my yard in Georgia. Welcome to the board

Well I figure shes got class and sophistication to her so I named her Sophia. Turns out its appearently a kids cartoon so my daughters love the name.

I can try but theres a few differences. Right off being from the states my terminology may be different. Also the engine I swapped it in was a 7.0 Liter engine in a ford Pickup truck so the problems were more exagerated. Diesel engines don't rev the same as petrol. Its a more violent jerking around of the flywheel. Where as petrol engines its a smoother rotation. The one I changed I could put the engine in 1st gear and let out on the clutch without pressing the accelerator. It would pull off smoothly as if I had been driving a manual for years. After swapping it out. Until I got adjusted to the difference I stalled it more times then I took off. When it did take off half the time it jerked as it was taking off unless I pushed the accelerator further then I really needed to. At cruising speeds you didn't notice alot however the truck just felt "slower" if that makes sense. The purpose of the dual purpose is to absorb the torsional variations of it being a diesel engine. Any area where your vehicle is using Torque more then Horsepower its going to act differently because the torsional variations are going full force into your gear box. If you're in the portion of the power band where the car is relying more on HP to get the job done then it won't be as noticable. I was always afraid it would cause added wear on the rest of the driveline Can it be done? Absolutely. Will it effect performance? If we're talking HP and Torque numbers on a dyno, maybe not. If we're talking about the aspect of how your car performs as a daily driver and driveability. Absolutely

I've replaced the dual mass flywheel in other vehicles with a regular flywheel and you could definitely tell a difference. Your engine is still going to make the same horsepower but you're going to tell a difference in drive-ability. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual-mass_flywheel

25 miles in a month isnt even really enough to keep the brakes from getting surface rust on them. Using it that little I doubt they even noticed it especially if it was just short trips up the road like our parts guys at work do. Unless someone stopped in front of them and forced them to slam on the brakes it probably felt normal, especially if it wasnt that noticeable when you bought it. At this point I think your best reaction is going to depend on how they react when the time comes. I could see them not doing anything at all if it wasnt there at the time of purchase. But since it was, any issue involving the operation of brakes could result in a serious accident possibly even someone getting dead out of it. Even just a warped rotor is going to effect the efficiency of the brakes. So you could argue that they sold you an unsafe car. If they value their reputation they should fix the situation, however, since you didn't tell them at time of purchase they're going to stick by well you did something to cause it afterwards. As I said earlier I don't know if brakes are considered a wear and tear item at 2 months after purchase on the warranty so they may hit you for the price of parts. But I cant see paying the price of parts and labor on something that was there to begin with. I learned long ago when test driving cars, especially used cars, any sound or vibration or anything that wouldnt be in the operation of the car brand new needs pointed out to the dealer. Especially in situations like this. But also to help get the car for cheaper. Alot of times if you point out issues like hey the brakes need changed, they either sell the car cheaper or repair it and still sell the car for the same price.

Yeah I totally agree. It shouldnt have even become an issue. For one they shouldnt have sold it like that, although their tech may have had the same thoughts. If you go in the dealer with a little tact and don't just go in demanding it would help. Explain to them whats going on and that it was an issue just not enough to be blantantly obvious I'm sure they'll be pretty helpful at solving the issue. If they value their customers they would anyway. If they obviously already knew and they're being rude and not wanting to fix it without charging to a ton of money, just tell then you'll put your story on every form of social media possible and leave ratings on every site you can find their ad on. Yes thats a very !Removed! way to be but, as soon as they realize the impact that will have on future customers they normally quit being rude about things. Just be nice about it first. Sometimes issues with used cars are over looked if they arent super noticeable. Totally understandable considering as many cars as some of these places deal with, and no one is going to offer up information that could lower the trade in value when giving up their car.

Oh trust me I know. My wife got a 2016 honda civic in april of 2016. It took until a few months ago to finally feel like it was ours and its been in a body shop twice already because appearently people on the road cant see a big pearl white car. I'm thinking more like a few years old 2010-2014 ish. The newer body atyle without the new for an XKR

Depending on what your waranty covers it might be covered. However, being a couple months of dealing with it, they may say that its a wear and tear item and still hit you with some form of charge. If you didn't report it to them when you bought it and get some form of documentation any legal stuff from it would end up being your word against theirs and they would just say it wasn't like that when it was sold.

I seem to be having that issue with the Xtype and the Stype. And for some crazy reason I'm severely starting to like the XKR. Someday when I finally can indulge in super nice cars I'm gonna end up with all 3 in the cave otherwise known as my garage.

Native Americans in the UK sounds a bit like reverse conquering to me. I got snowed in when I was last in Arizona. Either Arizona or New Mexico they shut down every road out of town with police road blocks for about 5mm of snow accumulation. It was insane

Let me be the first to say get well soon.... but yeah cleaning is always good I have 2 buttons on mine that dont work. Theres something sticky on the board,( cola perhaps) I'm hoping it didn't short out the buttons although a replacememt board can be had on ebay for around 15 bucks US. Key to this issue though is almost the same on any car. The process of getting into the program mode may change but you still have to do all remotes at once. It's a security feature. Basically if you loose a remote and then get new ones programmed, if they old one was still in the memory anyone who finds it could unlock your car and steal whatever out of it. By erasing all the remotes from memory before saving a new one to memory just ensures that someone finding an old remote cant get in a car later on. Even if it's the factory issued remote the computer sees it as new when you enter program mode

Im trying to find the work part of that lol. Sounds like alot of play time to me