JustBadly

The exhaust are a straight-thru with the mid silencers retained. Silent on tickover but plenty loud at high rpm. You can get these at drive in exhaust shops for £3-400 and a few hours. It's the 2.5 auto and the gears were tricky, I was thinking that if I selected the max gear to run on a straight with the 'J' gate it would be better than just using sport mode. Can't give you a rear facing camera cause I don't have one. Watch out for the tyres you use, if you look carefully at the 1st picture the rear tyre is folding over on the tread. It's Toyo's on the front and some cheapo hack on the back. They were about done so I didn't mind doing the trackday with them. Luckily I didn't have a blowout. The engine was faultless I have to say, I did about 60 laps. Everything got fairly hot but I've already done a racing conversion for the liquid cooling and it's biased to run cool. You can see the fitment of the thermostatic valve in this picture - guess the rest!

Here are a few pics and a vid of me driving around Mallory Park at the end of last year on the very last warm enough day.

https://youtu.be/EBZpqfJHO7k

I don't often use the parkbrake, only if parked on an incline. When I stop the motor I will press the brake and push down the parkbrake lever then remove the key. This stops the parkbrake from being applied plus it isn't good practice to secure a cable with a gearbox. The calipers are a sliding single piston and they will seize on the 2 pins. Remove the calipers and grease the sliding pins, I do this every year. Low pads will also cause trouble with the parkbrake, a new brake pad will have about 9mm friction material.

Another cover supplier

I bought one of these this summer. More practical than a full cover and I can pop it on at work to stop the interior from being cooked. I think mine is a medium size.

Car half cover

On 6/23/2022 at 5:28 PM, Angelo said:

When the car is idling, it does not produce cold air but as soon as I start driving (rpm goes up) I get cold air.

 

The CCM will cut the Aircon if the refrigerant pressure drops too low as well as too high. Call in to Halfords and buy the kit or visit an Aircon specialist.

There are 5 blend motors, remove them and disassemble. Clean and regrease the carbon tracks. Download the workshop manual for a guide. A gurgling sound on startup is low refrigerant for Aircon. Halfords sell a R134a refill kit but fill in stages, it's easy to go over pressure.

I have made diagrams from the workshop manual that detail my 'S' rust issues and prevention. Cheap to fix and effective. Since rust is a major issue can we have a rust sticky thread?

I don't think a permanent treatment exists. Every year I'll put the 'S' on the ramps and spend a few hours underneath abrading and paint the subframes. The paint gets blasted off in places over the winter, so the next year, same job. 

On 5/7/2022 at 5:48 PM, Aubrey said:

Hi Justin,

Glad you fixed problem.

I did not know you could buy a kit and do this yourself.

Always thought that it had to be done by a garage.

Good to know.

Regards,

Julie.

When I first saw these I was amazed. I thought people might blow themselves up but the usage is fairly straightforward.

Remove the port cap with a 17mm socket and push-fit the valve connector. From what I can work out from the manual, the static pressure should be 77psi but anyways once this is connected start the engine and turn the Aircon onto max cold then check the pressure. If it was anything like mine there won't be much so screw in the canister and start filling. The contents is actually a liquid so tip over the canister and give the trigger a squeeze, then upright and another squeeze to vent the hose. Repeat until the dial is in the green.

Once done turn off the Aircon and engine then remove the valve connector. Replace the port cap and you are done.

Aircon display has been flashing on/off and after watching a few videos I figured why. A guy with a Ford truck said the Aircon was switching on and off - he could see the pulley being disengaged and said it was low on refrigerant. Since the Jag pulley is always engaged logic says the next warning would be a flashing display.

So I bought the STP Aircon kit from Halfords, this is for R134a. The inlet port is under the vehicle, besides the front left wheel! I connected the gauge and there wasn't any measurable pressure but since it had still been able to cool the cabin, and there were no obvious leaks (UV light) - I started the fill process.

It took about 10 minutes, STP recommend to agitate the canister and before long it was completely empty! Now the pressure gauge read full and after a test ride everything appears OK.

There are cheaper kits available but STP make pretty good stuff and the gauge applicator is reusable + Halfords give a £10 refund on the canister.

I have drilled disks on the front and plain rear, yes the front is nosy. I have Mintex pads and the dust is fairly low. I also removed the front inner dust shields. This is to reduce heat on the front, with the dust shield the front disk can be so hot it fades. They are not mandatory, I have retained then on the rear disc since it is a single piston and doesn't get nearly so hot.

Some are still working but since the original circuit is putting 1amp thru the LEDs, it's only a matter of time. Most likely the replacement will have no backlight, but since I have shown you what to do, £25 will cover parts and tools. Not bad.

Running this Jag I noticed Oil collecting in the induction manifold when, if ever I removed the lower flap motor. This was a complete mystery to me since the manifold casting had no Oil feed! I finally tracked it down and it is the breather valve on the left valve cover. 

When the throttle is closed a vacuum develops in the manifold and the breather valve would shut. Instead the design of this is too aggressive and it fails to shut, causing a permanent air-bleed to the manifold. Result: condensation of Oil vapour.

The fix is to dismantle the PCV and fit new internals, controlling the valve with a ball-bearing. The bearing is placed on a hollow post to put it close enough to the valve hole that it will close given a small amount of suction. 

You will see I have a breather catch tank off the right valve cover, this is working as it should and no hoses have blown off the engine.

This fix is for the 2.5v6, the 3.0v6 has a different arrangement and might well be ok.

I did this a few years ago. It's not the same style tank but still had the paperclip retainer.

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/replacing-the-expansion-tank-retainer-clip.118553/

If I am working on the car and a wheel is off, when I have a break I put up netting over the work area. Scares the kids into leaving well alone. No accidents, squashed people, paperwork, etc.

Decided to buy one after last winter and how the Jag crank rate drops in cold weather. So the car was sat for 5 full days and the battery had dropped to 11.9v. I've got a voltage monitor on the centre console and when I connected the power leads it raised to 13.8v, not seeing any point waiting I turned the ignition to start and it started really well. What a tool! After starting the charge on the jump starter had dropped to 84%,

12 hours ago, Wrinkly said:

What sort of life expectancy do the manufacturers quote for these lights?

Regards, John

I've had them in for over a year and they are working fine. If you want the product details I can do this. The sales page showed part dimensions and I was able to compare emitter height vs standard filament. Once I had that I knew the beam pattern would be identical to a standard Bulb - except much brighter! Having said that, main beam isn't too bad but standard dip beam is almost dangerous. These sort it out and are comparable to HID.

Best headlights ever, makes it look like daylight. Dip beam has a fan, full beam does not. Recent changes to the mot mean that led lights can be used on a vehicle when not original equipment, providing the beam pattern is satisfactory.

I think it is a diesel and the injectors need to be reseated since gas from the compression stroke is leaking past them.

Water from the windscreen runoff gets between the glass and the cowl. Seal that up to stop the water. Check the cowl drain isn't blocked. Water onto the engine is never good. What engine is that? Looks like a diesel.

Found the ground point, it's at the top right of the screen. Power-in is near the base of the screen. Anyways, the all the connections check out it's the screen that's at fault. Can't even buy a new one because the screen companies require insurance details to replace it. Will have to wait for a big crack.

Where will I find the earth connector on the windscreen? RHS is not working and I've checked the supply side of the circuit, which is all ok. Everything's good from the +12v supply, the trigger from the AC unit, relay link, cable from fuse box to the windscreen connector. Which leaves the negative strap from the windscreen, don't want to waste time and skin from knuckles.