JustBadly

So I removed the centre bolt for the flywheel, about 175nm I think. Next I had to purchase a 4" puller and cut the arms in half. This allowed a smaller pull radius since the V6 flywheel is dinky, it didn't take much force to remove it. The old crank seal came out with the seal pick, a little stubborn but no drama. In with the new one and I must say it is important to use a press-kit and don't over insert the seal, keep an eye on it and leave it flush with the engine casing. The flywheel was next and I had to make a thin washer as the bolt was short when it came to pressing on. With that on I tightened it to about 150nm, I will check again in a week but that was enough for me that day. Took about 5 hours although I didn't have to drain the water coolant.

If you've got time, swap the catalyst sensors over between exhausts. If the fault changes side it's the sensor. If it stays it's the catalyst.

Putting the tools together.

Anyone replaced the front crank seal, and did a universal crank seal tool kit do the job?

I did a silly thing on Saturday, I dismantled and cleaned the throttle body! After 98k the sides were coated with a thick oily residue. Amazingly, the engine characteristics have changed. The transmission is smoother, it revs freely and it starts with a roar. I think this is because the idle/low rpm was rich before the cleaning! So there are several reasons why the ZF can give odd running.

Changed one of them today, I did this as an exploratory repair since I was unsure how the process would pan out. Now you can see the new bush is on the roll-bar. Very few tools needed, the biggest task was to undo the 13mm a/f bolt due to grime coating the threads. Very little room in there but there is enough ceiling to allow the capture flap to be removed. Then a pry bar gets the old bush out. Easy enough but that's when it gets tricky and take heed, the workshop manual gives no guide on how to change this bush except for removing the subframe. They are right - so I cheated!

Sent email to a Jaguar CCM specialist: On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 12:43 PM Tests done to diagnose the problem: Realised Amp meter had blown fuse, replaced then ran fuse 10 testa again Fuse measured 1.95A with AC off. AC on, hi temp - 4.02A. AC on, lo temp - 5.65A. Sorry about that. _______________________ Current level you measured are too high. The DCCV probably has a short circuit inside.

Just had the climate control start flashing the LCD display with code 'd2' on the passenger side. Is this a control valve error? If so that's easy - advice welcome.

The ride has been noisy from the back of the car, suspecting the anti-roll bar bushes I sprayed some snake oil on them. Sure enough the ride was quiet the following day. I think I'll go in from the side with a wheel off - what could go wrong? Maybe I'll post a pictorial guide.

I was looking through the manual today and I found a section about new keys. This said that up to 8 keys can be stored on the system. To store a new key, insert key into ignition and turn key to switch on ignition (do not start the engine). Leave ignition on for not more than 5 seconds then turn off ignition and remove key. After 10 seconds insert second key, turn to switch on ignition and leave on for not more than 5 seconds. Turn off ignition and remove key. Wait 10 seconds and repeat as necessary.

Noticed a fault in the last week or so. Remote key buttons not working but I can still start the car and drive. The remote works occasionally so I tried the second key with the first and both work. When the 1st remote does not work, neither key does so it's the car. The ignition transponder is working since I can start the car, that leaves the door module and remote receiver in the centre console. Anyone have a better idea? or is this a common fault with a common fix...

Have a look at this then Conversion

The EPB cable will hook onto the caliper lever if the caliper is off the disc since the lever can freely travel. Or you can wind back the piston, then unhook the cable, etc. Awkward however you try.

I happily buy from eBay, reconditioned units mean it is a Jaguar part. The alternator I bought has a smaller pulley to aid low rpm charging. If I needed a new starter I'd buy it from the same people. The catalogue number is a guide for your vehicle part but sellers often want the VIN code.

The modification here is solely to do with the backlight. If your radio has an additional fault then you might purchase another radio from a Jaguar parts specialist. Naturally, you will still have to fix the backlight on the replacement unit.

After I start the car I release the EPB by using the cabin switch and before putting into gear. When parking I'll place it into park then activate the EPB before turning off the engine. I just hate error codes.

Might have found it! Checked over the engine for vacuum leaks and found a hole in the engine breather. Replaced the hose length, will see if all is ok next run.

Am having faults P0172 & P0174 telling me fuel is lean on left and right bank. The codes appeared at the same time, so today I changed the MAF, air filter & fuel filter and although better the fault is still there. It happens when I am slowing down (shut throttle) but will clear after a few seconds when driving off. So I suspect the fuel pump is on the way out. My guess is that the pump is stopping instead of reduced flow, causing lean burn for a few seconds. Not surprised since mileage is 95k so is probably original. Will order one unless you guys have a better suggestion.

I had a flickering trunk light and this was traced to the wire loom from the trunk lid to the main body. The loom has to flex whenever the lid is opened and wires had become frayed. The wiring around the tail light has no leverage upon it, after checking for water ingress you might try the loom.

Don't know how original this one is, but it isn't used much although apparently runs.

This may be a coincidence but last week I added 'STP 5 in 1' petrol system cleaner to my Jag. This made quite a difference it is more free-revving and warms up quicker. Any probs with starting etc and I recommend this over everything else.

First thing is start with the basics. The gearbox will give a fault light if the fluid is low (this goes when you stop start) also it is going into safe mode. Change the filter and somehow get 6 litres+ into the transmission - I can give you advice. Unlikely to be anything else or the light would stay on.

Here is a quick guide to repair of the radio back light. If you want to do this you must have a soldering iron (fine tip), solder flux, tweezers, solder wick and 1206 green LED & 603 470R resistors. Only replacing the LEDs will not do, the load resistors must also be replaced since they are the cause of the fault. Remove the radio and dismantle, desolder the LCD screen then with the solder tip; load with solder and push off the resistors. The LEDs are removed by cutting then removing the tags with the iron. Spread flux onto the bare contacts then place components onto the board with tweezers and resolder. Good luck.

After a few drives I can say it takes a while to warm up, blanked off 1/² the radiator even so, about 10 minutes or so given 8°c air temp. Has to be a minimum flow past the thermostat to 'tell it' the temperature but this is only a 1.5mm hole in the back plate, might work on this in the future. Ignition is very stable and good spread of power now the ECU isn't having to compensate for erratic coolant temp. No leaks but filling up coolant took a while since there is the possibility of an air-lock around the thermostat. Winter running is often problematic but looking forward to summer.

There it is. All put together - will have some figures on warm-up time and running temperature after the coolant is in, etc. Thermostat is rated at 87°c will have an OBD2 reading for that.