David Taylor

Does anyone want to earn some £ to come and fix this with me? I'd rather get it done myself, with some oversight, than to be pay Jag £250 just to look at it.

1 hour ago, Jimbov8 said:

Slam panel vents is the usual entry point. Have a look behind the trim. Also advisable to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the well.

Is this easily doable / replaceable? I want to avoid drilling anything. What are Jag going to charge me to change?

Car stank and was taking ages to demist. Found some mold growing. An investigation and bingo. Wheel well was about 6inches deep in rusty water. I'm surprised nothing shorted.

So, now the fix. Anyone know what it'll cost me? I'm not skilled enough to do this stuff myself.

I ran a hose over the car and saw where the water was entering. Visible in one of the pics.

Help!

Hi. 

I'm in need of having my ABS sensor replaced, according to the error codes.  A local garage can't find the part and it looks like the only option is to book it in with a dealer. I'd like to avoid that high cost, if I can. 

Does anyone know a good place to source these parts? Is it likely a garage would sell me one direct? 

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it. 

The S/S worked once, yesterday. It's a manual, so may just be my driving style. I've done what I think is right, so put in to neutral and apply handbrake etc. My car doesn't have a S/S battery. Though I swapped the battery like for like. It's a 65 plate and still have the original battery, so would be time for that to change soon anyway. 

I've reached out for quotes on the ABS sensor and hoping it's that. Otherwise it's a pricey loom for me 😞

I may regret not buying an extended warranty.

Unfortunately I live in flat, do can't run a charger to the car. I've invested in a solar trickle charger, which may help a tad. 

OK, so @Big John wins. Battery was fine and a change hasn't solved the issue. Codes are hinting to it being the ABS sensor, offside front. 

Then two faults related to "High Speed CAN communication bus"... whatever that does. 

On 8/24/2021 at 8:27 AM, Big John said:

Hi

If you are getting 12.4 v on a cigarette lighter socket voltmeter with the car unlocked but not running the true resting voltage is probs 12.8v (fully charged). As soon as you unlock the car (and enable the socket) the car is drawing around 4 Amps and voltage drops significantly. As mentioned before, if S/S works battery is fine.

I would be looking at an ABS wheel sensor as cause, along with a fault in the TPMS which luckily I don't have as they are very tempremental. One approach to sorting the TPMS is to over-inflate the tyres and then reduce pressures back to normal. If that does not work it is most likely a wheel Tyre pressure sender at fault.

Systems like traction control rely on knowing how fast each wheel is turning, so a faulty ABS wheel sensor (which is what measures each wheels speed) will generate a fault which forces other functions that rely on its input to fail and throw a warning light so you know that function is not available. A failed parking sensor will switch off the reversing camera as well and alert you that you are "on your own" as there is a fault so don't blame us if you hit something when reversing!

Good luck

John

A useful response, thanks John. 

I'm booked in for a battery change, anyway, as S/S hasn't been working for the last 8 months. I hadn't really thought about it, just putting it down to me not 'activating' it properly. But if that doesn't solve things, then It'll be on to the wheel sensor next. Would be a real pain if that, and the TPMS, went at the same time. I don't have a reversing camera, only the audible sensor, which still works. That may also indicate it's not just a battery issue. 

I suspect I've got a duff battery, as well as some failed sensor. 

2 minutes ago, Bigvic said:

Duff battery…

I'm hoping so! Fingers crossed, getting it checked in Halfords tomorrow. 

Just see this thread and it may have saved me! I've had exactly the same issue and most people are advising me it is likely to be a low battery. However after a 200 mile drive it's still the same. 

Hopefully just the ABS sensor then! 

27 minutes ago, Jimbov8 said:

If, after a 200 mile drive, you still have the warning then it may well be a sensor that has gone. A decent code reader will confirm one way or the other.

I'm worrying so. Would the sensor cause the other lights to flash too? For example, I've also got the 'tyre pressure not available' warning along with no traction control etc

On 8/19/2021 at 11:37 PM, Coolcity said:

I bought one of these:

Dual USB In-Car Charger with LED Display, voltage test, 2 YEAR warranty | eBay

They're brilliant especially if you have an older XF with no USBs because they have 2 USB slots built in, and a digital readout that doubles as a battery monitor. It tells you what your battery voltage is before and after starting. Just plugs into the cig lighter power socket. These guys do have a slimmer version too, and other ones that double as an FM transmitter so you can play tunes from your phone over your car stereo. I got one of those too, works really well.

I know it doesn't solve the problem but it's a cheap and easy way to get a battery check on your car every time you get in. 

Thanks. I borrowed a similar one from my brother, over the weekend. I got a reading of 12.4v, with the car on but not running. Currently have a solar charger on the jump points, so let's see. 

I drove a good 200+ miles yesterday, to British Motor Show and back. Unfortunately that didn't turn the lights off. So I'm worried it's a little more serious. If that doesn't charge the batter then what will!?

On 8/16/2021 at 11:24 AM, Big John said:

Hi David

First question would be does the stop / start work? If it does battery should be OK, If not then low battery, particulalry as you have not been doing decent journeys may well be the issue.

Next on my list would be an ABS wheel sensor as if there is a problem in that systems lots of other things will not be able to work as they use the input from the wheel sensors.

Good luck

John

Good question, that I missed. I have almost never managed to get the stop/start to actually work. So that could indicate a battery issue. 

I don't have means to test the voltage, I'll see if Halford's will do it for me. 

Has anyone tried one of the solar (overnight) trickle chargers?

On 8/17/2021 at 9:40 PM, Tomato said:

If not, you may need to get it to a garage to plug it in the read any error codes, hopefully something simple.

I tried reading codes using my Carly OBD. It seemed to cut the engine off!

Thanks for the advice. I drove it for a good 30 minutes and they didn't go off. However I'll grab a charger and see what it can do. 

This afternoon, after a short drive and a restart, my XF displayed a series of warning lights; ABS fail, Traction Control fail, Automatic Emergency Brake fail, to name a few. Everything seemed to drive OK. 

When I plugged in my Carly OBD reader, when home, the car would actually switch off after a while and display and Engine Management light. 

I rant the engine for 45 minutes and restarted. Lights went out. 

Is this likely to just be a low-ish battery? I've only done a few short runs in it recently. 

I currently have a relatively nice, modern XF-R Sport. It's economical and looks good. My wife has an '01 SLK 230. We've been seeing a few XJS come up on eBay at not terrible prices. Anything from £3k - £30k. I'm aware that if we went for £3k, the we've got a lot of work to do.

From what I can read, the V12 isn't too powerful and is a bit of a pain to maintain. But it does have a nice V12 badge on the back. Is is worth me getting the V12, or should I go for one of the newer engines, such as the '95 4.0litre? 

I've seen a beautiful '84 5.3 V12, with a TWR body kit on it. 70k miles and at just over £5k. Too cheap? Will I regret owning this? I has the Lucas electronics, which is normally a bad sign.

Advice please!

It looks like this may have popped back up on eBay.

I'm very tempted by it, but I don't have a drive or garage.

JAGUAR XJS V12 5.3 SPORTS COUPE TWR RACING | eBay

Thanks Aubrey. 

I'm being quoted close to £150 here (Essex) as my XF takes 'the newer gas'. 😞

My AC is no longer blowing cold 😞 

Has anyone tried doing this themselves? Prices seem to have gone up a lot recently. 

I've got a 2016 XF

Or do I just need to bite the bullet? 

I had the same issue with a previous XE-R, as well as my current XF-R. Will have to give @Big John's advice a try, but pretty sure I didn't have aircon on. Also had the issue pre-pandemic, even when driven every day. Will get a trickle charger, see if that helps. Cheers John. 

If not the battery, any other suggestions?

On 1/24/2021 at 12:07 PM, Tomato said:

Can be, just make sure it is done properly and you do your homework.

Been put off from a couple of sub standards works I have seen.

 

Thanks. Anything specific to be aware of? I'm getting a wiiiiiiiiiiiide range of quotes. 

On 1/24/2021 at 12:49 PM, Klee88 said:

I would definitely recommend. Had mine done a couple of years ago. Car still looks new (I am now selling it)

Looks good, thanks. 

According to the Remote App, my vehicle is locked but never alarmed. 

To get it to read as alarmed, I have to lock it through the app. 

Do we think this is an issue with app connectivity, or with the key not alarming the vehicle? I get a beep after double clicking the key.

Thanks Tom

I couldn't find a decent portfolio in my price range (and manual). So I've not got the benefit of the folding seats and powered boot-lid. 

But I don't really lug much about in it, so no great loss.