LairdScooby

Incandescent

In addition to the sounds advice given my Jim above, there is a possibility that you have an ABS sensor failing - not completely failed but on its way out and the problem is exacerbated by damp weather.

However, i would also go down the battery checking route to begin with.

Glad to hear you've solved your problems and normal service is resumed! 😉 😄

Illumination

Street-car

Amorous

Bush

Cream

Bananas

Slave

Head

Seal

3 hours ago, Bellasim said:

the battery that had been fully charged to 14.4v had drained down to 2v whist being still connected to the car for a week and now it won’t take a charge I could only get it too 9.5v last night so I would say it’s goosed. 

Sounds like it's lost a cell or two. That's the usual sort of figure i would expect from one dud cell.

3 hours ago, Bellasim said:

the alternator had burnt out causing such a draw from the battery that there was nothing left for the rest of the car.

Disconnect (and insulate) the battery lead from the alternator and unplug the warning light/field wire so the alternator can't generate then try a fersh battery. It's possible if the alternator is dead and shorting the battery, it's what killed the battery or maybe even vice versa.

3 hours ago, Bellasim said:

I’m fed up of this car as much as I love it I really wish I never bought it. 

Once you get past these problems, you'll be glad you persevered. 😉 😄

42 minutes ago, Big John said:

Is it possible to try a jump start from another car with heavy duty jump cables?

At the risk of preaching to the converted John, that depends whether the battery is ok or not, if it's gone it may hog all the available jump start current. Also depends on whether the "slave" vehicle has a big enough battery to fire up a Jag.

Method

Use some contact cleaner on those pins and also in the plug, remake/disconnect the plug several times then spray the contact cleaner in again and finally remake the connection.

Doubtful whether that would prevent starting but i have no tech data on the XF so anything is possible i suppose. I would suggest it's probably capable of preventing things like the hazards and interior lights not working though.

Binary (197)

Flowchart

I'm not familiar with Japanese imports Graham so i had wondered if they had use an Aisin-Warner transmission instead of the ZF usually fitted. Experience with an AW in a Volvo 760 taught me the overdrive switch could sometimes play up bringing up a warning light indicating overdrive was off.

From what you say, i'm guessing you have the more usual ZF box, some of the later 5-speed auto ZF boxes had their ECU mounted inside the gearbox, the seal could fail and this rendered the gearbox dead. This was more common on late 90s V8 models (X300 usually) but as you have a Sport mode, there is some electronic control. On the 4-speed if memory serves, the ECU is remote from the gearbox but i'm not sure where.

If you can locate the gearbox ECU, follow the wiring from it and there should be an earth point somewhere nearby, i'd remove the connector and clean the connector and earth point - everything you've said so far points to a bad connection of some sort, probably an earth.

Sequential

Just a weird thought here Graham, do you have an overdrive button for your gearbox? If so, try cycling that off/on a couple of times before turning the ignition on.

Unique

Bespoke

The smell of burning semiconductors is different to that of an alternator or other wound component (eg motor, transformer etc) so that might give you the answer. If you stick your head in the footwell and have a good sniff, you should get your answer - if the BCM has fried, you'll smell it.

The alternator windings will be a more accrid smell and most obvious under the bonnet, particularly in the region of the alternator.

At this stage, guesswork won't do it, you need a proper diagnosis, hopefully your Jag specialist has autoelectrical training or at least, a working knowledge of electrical systems. Even then they can be tricky to diagnose.

Suit