LairdScooby

Lottery

Handful

Tenacity

Dogs

Basildon

Spies

Kinks

Have you tried the same app on a smartphone or computer? Just wondering if the problem is with the app itself and/or the peole that provide it rather than being a car problem.

Island

Might be worth cleaning that out using caarb/air intake cleaner or even renewing the PCV valve to reduce the pressure the oil is being blown up by. A 6" diameter puddle of oil won't actually be that much, a little goes a long way when it's spread out on the ground but it's still too much really.

Forgot to ask, after soaking the bores in oil, did the compression on the other 4 cylinders improve?

Clothesline

That sonds very much like the dizzy cap is dirty and tracking is occurring - in other words you're getting a spark at the correct time and then as the rotor distributes sparks to the other plugs, dirt is providing a track across the cap to the one plug giving a spark. Have you also verified that when #1 cylinder is at TDC, the rotor is pointing to #1 segment in the cap and that the leads are on the cap in the correct order? A closed points gap could also have caused this, the points may only just be opening just enough to give a spark but way too late - worth checking the gap and then re-checking the static timing too.

Silly question before you decapitate the engine, are you sure you have a spark and that it's happening at the right time? Sometimes if an engine has been laid up for a period of time they are reluctant to fire even with seemingly good compression because the spark is weak. Also is fuel getting through not only to the carbs but through the carbs? Sticky needle valves/floats can cause problems in this area as can gummed up choke mechanisms, especially those that don't just lower the jet on the carbs but open a rotary valve with different drillings for enrichment.

Thanks for that explanation, i'll have to go through mine and see if there are any imminent problems but given the general behaviour of the engine, i'd say not. I do keep an eye on the breathers on all my cars though, it's wasted horsepower and fuel having them blocked.

Mainframe

Maybe i'm being thick here but i can't see how what you're suggesting can happen - can you explain please?

Welcome aboard Mike! I've had my S Type just under a year (3.0V6 SE auto on LPG - or propane to our USA friends) and also think they're fantastic, under-rated cars. While searching for a forum/club to join when i first got it, this was the onlyy one that had a good amount of answers to everyday problems, all the others seemed to work on the "go to your dealer" idea! Hope you have a long and happy life with your S Type!

Software leaves me not just cold but positively Arctic so i might be way off-beam with this suggestion but have you tried doing an update on it to update all apps? I've experienced similar on smartphones (and computers even! Most ironic was i couldn't get my broadband and mobile accounts to display on my PC but could on my mobile, all services provided by EE!) over the years i've had them, done an update and - lo and behold - they start working agin, connecting when they should and so on. The other suggestion i was going to make was give it a few days in case there's a server or software problem at the place where the weather app is fed data but it seems you've already given it a couple of weeks.

First thing i would check is the fuse for the fuel pump. Often these will get dirty on the contact ends over time and while appearing intact (not blown) they will give the same symptoms as a blown fuse. Removing the fuse and cleaning the contacts (or renewing the fuse with a NEW one) with some emery cloth (NOT sandpaper!) may well solve your problems. Let us know how it goes!

Automatic (J-Gate)

I know a lot of the UK Honda owners use 1 pt of synthetic ATF (eg Valvoline Maxlife ATF, NAPA NVA) addded to the engine oil to help keep the VVT (VTEC) valves/solenoids clear, might be worth a try. Also works well on sticky hydraulic lifters/tappets.

Bodmin

Ionic

Spray