LairdScooby

Hi All, as per the title, i'm looking at getting a stainless exhaust for my 3.0 S-Type but as you can imagine, internet searches return a maze of possible solutions from all-out race exhausts to those that are standard replacements but seem too cheap. Has anyone had a stainless exhaust built/fitted, found one "off the shelf" or similar and can give some recommendations/experiences so i have a few starting points for further investigation please? Looking to retain the quietness but with a slightly sporty, deeper note - nothing wild or "boy racer". I did find one on YouTube that seemed to meet what i was looking for but the maker of the system and/or the builder/fitter seems nowhere to be found. I'm not in a hurry to do this, probably about 6-9 months time (when spring/summer is here again) as the more time i have to investigate, the more chance i have of getting what i want at the price that i want to pay. Thanks in advance!

Sorry to hear you're selling John, hope you get a good price for it!

As someone who has had autos for many years (decades in fact) i can assure you the method you used isn't crap, unless your car is near new with very low mileage and has previously had the ATF changed regularly, the method you used is in fact the best method. Using the flushing method you describe and cite as "the best way" introduces all new fluid in one hit. That new fluid will be much thicker than the older, worn, thin stuff currently residing in your box. The additive in ATF commonly called "seal-swell" will also have worn out, allowing the rubber seals, "O" rings etc to dry out and become brittle. When you dump a full load of new, thick fluid in, this can cause pressures to rise considerably and those brittle seals etc don't always cope. Introducing it in a series of "part-changes" as you've done means the new fluid comes in gently, allowing the seal-swell to work on the seals and revive them before the next lot of new fluid comes in. This is a much gentler method on the gearbox and less likely to pop any seals as you drive. Normally 3-400 miles between each part-change is ideal, depending on the state of the fluid when you started your series of part-changes, you'll need to do 3-4 part-changes and then do one a year to maintain the fluid in a good, clean condition. I did once (about 18 years ago!) try the flushing method on an old Volvo 740GLE, seemed fine until i gave it the beans one day about 3 weeks after (bearing in mind i'd been doing about 250 miles a week in between so the seal-swell should have done its bit of reviving) and caused a harsh change between 2nd-3rd which even happened on a gentle throttle after that. Needless to say i p/x'd the car soon after and never again tried using the flushing method!

Bit of an update, when i tried to get access to the CKP i doscovered it was trickier than i first imagined so decided to go with the idea that as i only wanted to get my hands in that position once to remove/fit new (or test) i'd buy a new CKP and fit it. Found this one on fleabay : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234276747755 I used the part number LRA1640CA to search for it so although not listed for the S Type, it's the correct part. Ordered it 5/9/2022 on RM 24Hr which turned into 192hr as it finally arrived last night at 855pm! 😮 Fitted it today after an hour of "working by Braille" and turned the key for the moment of truth - the V6 growled into life as it should! 😉 😄 Thanks to those who contributed!

Oh. Oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear. Nurses and warty curds! (Curses and naughty words) Thanks for that though, i purposely didn't mention (nor have i tested it yet) that as a possibility as i was firstly hoping there might be another more likely cause and secondly playing that game with myself where if i don't think about that possibility then it can't possibly be that causing the problem. 😛 Minor update on what i put in my first post above, fuses #5 & #6 checked out ok, both gave a tiny splash of current as i pulled them with the ignition on thereby proving the circuits they feed as well. That led me to believe it therefore had to be something not firing the coil packs or something not telling the PCM to fire the coil packs - i.e. the CKP (Crank Position Sensor) so (weather permitting, it looks like i'll be getting my hand-held scope out and testing it. I think i know the rsult already though. 😞 At least it's relatively easy to access on the S Type, unlike my other two beasties. One is on top of the bellhousing so it's easy to drop the bolt into the bellhousing and difficult to reach the sensor in the first place, the other one lives behind the front bank cam pulley 🥴 so definitely isn't a quick job. Will update with the rsults of my tsting as and when the monsoons allow, thanks again! 😉 😄

Hi All, hoping for a bit of inspiration as so far i've wasted too much perspiration on this! 😮 Last time i used my Jag was monday and it was going fine, although when i tried restarting where i'd been, it was a bit reluctant - i put it down to a bit of fuel vapouristaion after a hot run getting there. However, in between i gave it a good wash and polish so it was looking all nice, bright and shiny. Went to use it yesterday and while it turned over rapidly, it just wouldn't fire or even attempt to fire. A few clues - no tachometer action - usually this flicks slightly while cranking before firing. I can hear the fuel pump priming and the throttle body whirring slightly (at least i think it's the throttle body, that general area) with ignition on. I've tried both keys (known many Fords and Volvos with the same sort of key happily crank but not fire because the RFID chip has failed) and checked fuses #1, #11, #12 in the underbonnet fusebox and all have a feed in and out which also proves fuse #17 in the rear fusebox. Tried connecting my OBD-II scanner, wouldn't link correctly for some odd reason. The PATS LED lights with ignition and goes out suggesting it's not a security fault (ruling the immobiliser out hopefully) and lastly, i found the inertia switch, deployed it by whacking it and reset it, just in case it had gone into its third state - in the on position but not passing current, had this many times on other cars with inertia switches. Does anybody have any clues, ideas, suggestions please? Just about to go and test fuses #5 & #6 in the underbonnet fusebox and then i'm completely out of ideas!

Welcome aboard Mark! I too recently became the owner of a 3.0 V6 SE S Type and so far (until yesterday) was enjoying it. As John has said, there isn't really a specific recommissioning guide for the S Type, just general common sense. All fluids and filters, tyres (they could well have flat-spotted and/or perished/cracked up), check the serpentine drive belt in the engine bay, all rubber bushes etc that mount the suspension and like John advised, check for the dreaded tinworm. They're a great car, i'm sure you will enjoy yours as much as i normally and i expect others do too! 😉 😄

Good luck with hunting John, i've resigned myself to having to make a fascia for mine (1999.25 model) as nothing exists in the aftermarket to replace the original cubby hole, double-DIN factory head unit etc as one panel to fit a single DIN (or double for that matter) for mine. To give you an idea, this is an entry-level double DIN android head unit which has sat-nav built in and a facility for a reversing camera (not supplied), you'll need adaptor leads from someone like Autoleads to plug the DIN connectors into the Jag loom but gives you an idea : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195258199419 It's all down to what you want, budget and how much you're willing to change trim etc in the car. A new head unit (even a budget one) will likely sound better than the 15-20 year old OE unit as the components will be new and won't have degraded over time. I was surprised when i fitted the (recently new) head unit from my Rover into the Jag, the sound was vastly improved over the OE fit Jag unit. 😉 😄

Another thought crossed my mind just now John, you can buy double-DIN stereos with screens that serve as sat-navs (using Google Maps because they're Android based) and also reversing cameras. Usually these screens are just under 7" wide (DIN width) and usually about 5.5-6" high so would be in the region of a 9" screen. That's assuming your S Type is post-facelift and it will fit easily.

My choice would be to use the Google Maps app on your smartphone if you use one. Always freely updated and provides live alerts to delays and offers alternative routes. However, if you really want a separate stand-alone unit, my choice would be Garmin. I was using their kit in the late 90s for precise naigation on board ships (there were reasons it had to be precise) and their kit was always reliable. They have been at it longer than Tom-Tom, i wish i'd had the money to develop the idea i had of a commercial sat-nav before Tom-Tom did but that's another story! Yes, Garmin tend to be more expensive than Tom-Tom but for a stand-alone, they are the best IMHO. Try and negotiate free updates as i believe they are chargeable and with so much development going on the roads are always changing. I remember buying a brand-new sat-nav in 2008 and it was already outdated, not even a free first update to make it current included in the price. That said it was a run-out model but even so! It showed me driving through fields on roads i knew were already a year old at the time.

Welcome aboard Anthony! I also recently bought my first S Type (but 3rd Jag overall) and am rapidly learning that not all repair procedures apply to all years, not all trim is the same and many things are VIN related. So far i've been welcomed and had help from several members, John (above) being one of the more helpful. 😉 😄

Not likely, the timing is controlled by the engine management ECU/PCM and therefore shouldn't allow pinking/pre-ignition/detonation/pinging unless the EML/MIL is lit in which case the codes need to be read and the cause investigated. If it is the little ends as i suggested, it is often worse on cold start (and cold engines shouldn't be revved hard anyway) and either way, worse under load. Piston slap is more of a knock than a rattle too.

Thanks John i'd already found some bulbs on fleabay as it happens from a seller i've used before and bulbs that either i've used or someone i know has. They're also very wallet friendly! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372067399765 A comparison photo taken one evening several years ago, all Rover 800s, all beams previously checked for correct alignment and from left to right, the H4 version of what i've linked to above, LED headlamp bulbs and then Nightbreakers. As you can see, the LED bulbs are brightest and have the best definition of the beam pattern (but they were expensive LED bulbs!), the next best is in fact the cheap ebay H4 "Xenon look" bulbs and the Nightbreakers are pretty poor by comparison. As such i'm dubious about buying bulbs that are on the pricey side with promises of being able to see better in the dark although your comments on the performance of the Ring Xenon 200 are very welcome and duly noted. For now i'll get some of those ebay ones and if they deteriorate more quickly than i hope then i'll give the Xenon 200s a try. I have to confess i'm halfway tempted to buy a set of filament bulbs to fit annually for the MoT and a set of LED bulbs for the rest of the year.

From your description, i'd say the little ends are shot. Could also be piston slap but that's usually more obvious when it's cold going up a steep hill in a higher gear than you should. When did it last have an oil/filter change?

Very useful thread for me as i was after confirming the bulbs are in fact H7 - used my S Type for the first time after dark the other night only to discover dipped beam is horrible! Bulbs are dim and yellow, because of the age of the car i can't use LED upgrades so now hunting some decent H7 bulbs. The clip is easy - push on the "bridged" part until it's free then lift up to clear the bayonet - come across that on other cars but not the S Type so far, will soon though and yes, i may eat the word "easy"! 😛

As the saying goes, anything is possible! I'm still working on my S-Type (similar to the pic above) and have decided to make a replacement fascia panel as none exist for the early pre-facelift cars. I've heard (but not sure) the XJ uses the same size/shape fascia as the early X-Type but whether that's correct or not is another matter. try searching for Autoleads and their online catalogue to see what's available for yours. 😉 😄

Holy thread resurrection Batman! 😛 I'm looking to do similar to my recently acquired 1999 S-Type Chris, can you give me any hints/tips please that would make life easier plase? Seems there are umpteen different head units fitted as standard to the early models, mine has green VFD rather than the later LCD display if that gives any clues? Looks like you had the same as your heater controls are the same (visually) as mine.

Thanks John - any recommendations on the code reader? I have a generic OBD-II code reader but having looked through some of the diagrams, it doesn't seem to be possible to use on the the S-Type. Other than that, my old beastie had code readers built in to the ECU and/or would flash warning lights once a link had been connected in the right place and the other beast i regularly use doesn't have fault code memory so no codes stored. The multimeter is useful on that one! 😛 Thanks Joe, i've found the link for jagrepair already but thanks for confirming it's a good one! Looking at the diagrams, only other thing is can see is F14 (10A) as being a possible cause of the heater valves not closing but that also appears to feed the SRS circuit and i've not noticed the SRS light on at all - even when just at position 2 without starting. I'll have to be more observant next time i start it!

Thanks Joe, i had a feeling that might be the case but thought i would ask. Along similar lines, the module that actually does the hard work for the AC of switching the heater valve, the one above the glovebox (can't think of the name just now), i'm guessing that's not interchangeable between early and late cars either? No prizes for guessing, the AC only blows hot or hotter, depending on temperature selected! The dealer fitted a new heater control valve but that hasn't fixed it. On a very steep learning curve at the moment! 😉 😄

Thanks Peter, always good when you find a rattle isn't something to worry about! 👍

Hi all, just been reading through this thread and it seems as if it might have the answer to at least one of my questions. Just picked up a 1999 S-Type 3.0 SE and the one-touch only works on the drivers window going down, no one-touch closing. Seeing a couple of comments, it appears to be correct for early S-Types? If so, is it possible to retro-fit the later Door Module to gain one-touch on all windows? My other questions will need to go in different threads as although still electrical, they aren't related to windows. Thanks in advance

Thanks Peter! As it happens, i picked up the wee beastie today : Only 78k and one owner from new, fitted LPG conversion, full service history (mostly Jag dealer then indy), drove really well and managed to negotiate a bit off the price for the common heater blowing hot problem because the heater valve isn't closing. Allegedly the heater valve has already been changed so it points to the ECU or control panel i believe. As you can see, it's near enough immaculate inside and out although i've found a couple of trim niggles that need fixing, one is the left door mirror cover and the other is the sill trim in the boot which appears to have been damaged during the LPG tank installation. Also thought i had a piece of loose trim on the dash until i touched it to silence it on the way home and discovered it was in fact a coin tray with about £1.40 in 20p pieces! Only a small victory but a win is a win! 😉 😄

Hi All, through a series of strange incidents over the past 18 months, it looks like i will soon be rejoining the ranks of Jaguar owners! In the past i've had a 1984 Series III XJ Sovereign 4.2 followed by a 1989 XJ40 3.6 Sovereign and unless the S-Type i'm looking at turns out to be a complete shed, it looks like i'll soon own a 1999 3.0 SE. If it all happens, i'll add some pics and some more details, for now i thought i'd say hello anyway!