LairdScooby

Catenary

Teapot

The original fit on your X Type would have been Pirelli P6000J - the J denoting Jaguar. Sadly these are no longer available, i've used P6000s (the generic P6000 rather than the "J" type) on other cars and they've been really good tyres. I have a pair of (10 year old) P6000s on the front of my S Type and because of their age, their grip is reduced. On the rear are (5 year old) P7 Cinturatos, not impressed with those either! I'm looking for a set of tyres to replace all 4 on mine but with yours being AWD, you'll have to renew all 4 at the same time with the same type all round to get optimum results. There used to be a brand known as Corsa, these were old-pattern Pirelli tyres, made by Pirelli, i put a set of these on an old Volvo 740 about 18 years ago and transformed the car. I know with Jaguars in general, having the same type of tyre all round is more important than other cars but with any AWD/4WD it's also important to have them all wearing at the same rate to avoid transmission wind-up. I'm currently looking at a set of : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144518219295 for mine, surprisingly good reviews for a "budget" tyre and not being impressed with the Pirellis (first time ever Pirelli have failed to impress me) they're probably a reasonable bet. Will be interested to know what you finally decide on. 😉 😄

Marshmallow

Cheese

Puppy

Horse

Vagrant

Sleep

Activity

Perpetual

Precision

Passive

Assault

Ringtone

Sting

Honey

Vegetarian

Badger

Muntjac

If the 100Ah/900CCA will physically fit, get that one. Alternatively, have a look here : https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/shop/?swoof=1&product_brand=diesel-all-models-2008-present A good selection from £95 upwards to £240..........

Desert

Maybe once a fortnight or once a month, take it for a longer run to give it a bit of a concentrated charge to help get round this problem. I use a 1988 Volvo 760 as my "Dogmobile" so its use is predominantly very short runs, however every once in a while i'll take it for a longer run to recharge the battery and blow the cobwebs out.

A fully charged battery is 12.7V : Your alternator should put out in the region of 15.1-14.7V depending whether cold or hot, the voltage may go up slightly on the upper level due to certain things like load etc, especially at idle but the battery is almost certainly a calcium/silver-calcium type which refers to the doping on the plates to prevent sulphation."Normal" lead-acid batteries have lead-antimony doping and need 14.4-13.8V to charge, the calcium increases the charging voltage by 0.1V/cell and with 6 cells, each of 2.2V (total 13.2V) you can see where the extra 0.6V of charging voltage is needed. With so much electronics on cars thse days and so many things referenced to a stabilised supply of 5V, 10V, 12V etc and a variable battery voltage, it's easy to see if the battery drops below a certain level of charge, strange things will happen. To put this into perspective, many sensors work on the potential divider principle where two resistors in series divide the battery voltage. One of those resistors will be the sensor but these derived voltages will be compared to a known voltage from one of the stabilised supplies. To make the figures easy, let's say one of the stabilised reference voltages is 6V. Let's make a sensor where the resistance is 6k and is fed by a 6k current limiting resistor which provides a total of 12k Ohms. Call the sensor R1 and the limiting resistor R2, the voltage developed across R1 = VR1 = Vb x (R1/(R1 + R2) so in this example, VR1 = 6/12 x Vb (Vb is battery voltage) so at 12V, VR1 will be 6V. If the threshold for a fault is 5.9V compared to the stabilised 6V supply, no fault will be shown but if the battery voltage drops to 11.5V, VR1 will also drop to 5.75V and hence register a fault. Bit long-winded for a simple explanation but hopefully gives an insight into how these things work!

Quagmire