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About simonhirst

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  1. Hi. I had the same problem several times. Someone posted a reply on this forum which worked for me. After turning on the ignition, wait until all the start up lights have gone out before proceeding to start the engine. As I said, worked for me. I always used Shell VPOWER or Texaco Supreme. Again, had no issues as long as I stuck with these.
  2. I think that you have two separate issues here, both of which I have suffered. The loss of power mode can often be cleared by waiting say 10 secondso after turning on the ignition but before starting the engine. This appears to allow a reset. The AC system is susceptible to leaks in older cars. Refilling the system gives a temporary fix but is now illegal if you knowingly refill a leaky system.
  3. Hi. I have had the same issue in the past and currently I have it again. I think that it is the contol unit which is situated on the left hand side of the spare wheel bay. Simon.
  4. Hi. I agree with last comment. Unusual to find the battery that dead. AA won't diagnose the problem. Based on my experience of a similar problem: - Get your local garage to test the battery. This shouldn't cost anything. - If the battery is good, you'll need a specialist electrician to test the car.
  5. Hi. This is very frustrating. We had a round of posts on this subject a few months ago. I've found that a scan does not reveal the problem. One member did have good advice which I followed and have not had the problem since. Whenever you start the car, wait until all the dash lights have gone out except the ones which only go out once the car has been started. Don't know why this works, but it does. If in the mode, stop the car, wait a few minutes and then restart. Good luck.
  6. Had this problem myself. Could be a sensor or the control unit. I had to replace the control unit which is situated in the left hand side of the boot. Not cheap I recall. Good luck.
  7. I have read various blogs on this topic. Lots of people suffer from this problem and it is very difficult to diagnose, even going through the diagnostics process. I did read one piece of advice and I have successfully appied it so will pass it on. I recently had restricted power several times over a few days which, touch wood, has not come back. If you get the restricted performance warning light on and get restricted power, pull over and switch the ignition off, wait one minute, switch on the ignition but wait until all the lights on the dash have gone off except the four which stay on until the engine has been started, then start the car. In general, whenever starting the car, always wait until all the lights except the four have gone out. It is very tempting to start the car immediately, but it does appear that this could lead to the restricted performance issue. Advice worked for me, so I pass it on.
  8. Andy is right. The rattle comes from the exhaust heat shields where they have worn around the bolts. Unscrew the bolts and use big washers.
  9. CBer: Yes. Full part name is front hub wheel bearing.
  10. Russ68. Yes this is the first time the arms and hubs have been replaced.
  11. Russ68. My S Type is 10 years old and done 97,000 miles, 70,000 in the past 3 years since bought it. Up and down the A303 every week. Bushes on the lower arms had gone and decided it was best to change the arms. CBers: I did change the hubs and we are fairly certain that this was the source of the discs warping which in turn caused the front end shuddering under braking problem.
  12. Hi. Have had exactly the same problem. Shuddering under breaking so changed all discs and pads. All needed doing anyway. Less than 5,000 miles later and the shuddering was back. Front discs were badly warped. I also had another problem, probably not connected, of excessive and uneven front tyre wear, so decided to do the following work. Changed the lower front arms. Got new front discs under warranty. We couldn't seat the discs properly due to the condition of the hubs, so changed these. Not cheap as Jag only part. I also changed the tyres which were on the legal limit. Car now drives and breaks beautifully. On reflection, it does appear that the condition of the hubs was the source of the shuddering.
  13. Not the north east but south west! Look for a specialist tow bar fitter who does nothing but that. I had a Witter fitted for £380. Very pleased.
  14. It was the sensor module in the boot. The unit is not well placed and susceptible to getting damp into it.
  15. Graham, Thanks for your response. I've followed up your advice. The switch is only there if the car is fitted with both front and rear sensors and ot when there are only rears sensors. Old Peter, Thanks for your input. I'm coming to the conclusion, rightly or wrongly, that the sensors have been automatically switched off and have not automatically switched back on again, and am wondering if this is a fitting issue. I have the car booked in with the fitter on Friday, so if anyone has an experience of this, please let me know. Many thanks.