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pezzzer

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Posts posted by pezzzer

  1. Just done a quick search Phil, basically if you have a thermostat that is stuck in the 'closed' position this causes the car to overheat, if its stuck in the 'open' position the water keeps circulating building up very little heat causing no heat out put to the heater matrix.

     

    So, when you first start your car the stat is in the closed position allowing the engine and cooling system to reach optimum temperature for running efficiency, when this temperature is reached it then opens allowing you then to use your heating in the cabin.

     

    I think this makes more sense and that the cause of your issue is still the thermostat in my book. As for how to change it, a Haynes manual, youtube search or similar should be out there somewhere bud.

  2. aye up Phildog, don't get down on your grammar dude, we are all here to help and the benefit of our experiences. More importantly lets try and get the issue sorted.

     

    As far as I am aware a regassing of the air con unit only affects the air conditioning ie the cooling system.

     

    If you are not experiencing overheating then the problem could be an electrical one as this controls the mechanical 'flaps' that, if faulty could be permanently in the shut off position, thereby inhibiting the flow of warm air into the cabin. I had a similar problem with a Fiat Tipo my daughter had, the control had broken and the car was freezing through one winter I remember, I went straight to the heater matrix and changed that but it made no difference.

  3. Hi Phil. just reading your post and in particular your 'big' problem, you say there is no water in the lower hose, if this is the one that feeds the heater matrix then I think it would be safe to assume something is blocked or water is unable to get there. It is unusual that you are not reporting over heating problem as this would point to the thermostat. Are you sure that the water is circulating, holding one of the pipes and revving the engine you should feel a surge or increased pressure on the wall of the tube, this would therefore indicate that the pump is working ok.

     

    I would think that an 05 car would have at some point had the coolant replaced, therefore I can't really see it being a blockage or an air lock as you would hear bubbling & gurgling noises.

     

    I would start in the cheapest and easiest place, the  thermostat bud.

  4. Hi Kevin,

     

    That is not a bad price.

     

    The overall issues of out of date software is something that the main dealers make a lot of money from.

     

    Peter.

    I thought it very reasonable too Peter, hence booking it in for our summer shut down in August.

     

    Andy also mentioned that it is the torque converter making the noise but it is not detrimental to the running of the car.

  5. Just a note on some follow up info I have gained on this issue over the weekend. Having spoken to my local independent Jaguar specialist (Andy), he states that this issue solely affects the 3.0L models and in 99.9% of cases a reprogram of the Transmission Control Module cures this irritant. The work costs £65 + vat.

  6. Yes I suppose that makes sense Kevin although I did not see that in the book anywhere.

    Hi Keith, yes it is a little vague and based on a summations of my own after reading the hand book. Section 3-18 Before Driving section does state that the drivers seat should move on entry/exit, but then you also have the memory function (optional extra) for the seat, pedal and wing mirrors. It does seem a little strange that you would have two systems doing the same thing ie moving the seating position on entry/exit.

  7. You've just hit the nail on the head Peter, it would seem that, as with my car, the memory function setting that controls the steering wheel, seat, pedals and rear view mirror (if you were to have all these options installed) isn't fitted, ergo the steering column is all that adjusts on entry/exit.

     

    If you have the memory setting option installed then you get control of all the above on entry/exit.

     

    Hope this fits everyone's scenario's.

  8. As I said in my first post Peter, the system I had, you had to provide reg, vin and paint/trim code and the guy was very helpful. When I got it through the post I was very dubious because the top of my steering wheel was worn to the fabric underneath. I was very patient with it and applied multiple coatings over a number of days and the results were fantastic. The kit also came with a gentle leather cleaner and conditioner, but for the life of me I cant remember where I had it from. I'd recognise it straight away though if I saw it.

  9. What?!! my steering and seat move on exit and entry?!! you lucky people, having a handbook!! I'm guessing at what buttons do when I press them lol.

     

    I noticed that knob at the left of the steering column, turned it few times then give up because nothing seem to happen.

  10. I bought a leather refurb system off eBay some years ago to have a go at my first X Type steering wheel which was showing heavy signs if wear and it was excellent, but for the life of me cant remember what it was called.

     

    I now find myself needing to freshen up some signs of wear on the drivers seat, anyone got any experiences of products that they've been happy with?

     

     

  11. I agree with isis, I've only had the motor for a few weeks S Type 3.0 Sport but am getting around the mid twenties knocking about locally. I too leave the B Trip alone because you can get an overall reading for combined and that's reading 27.8mpg.

     

    I do a lot of Stoke to London travelling during the football season as my family originate from Fulham Broadway area, Brompton I think, anyway I digress, I will be able to get a 'fairer' reading then.

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