David1965

if it was just the headgasket then i would have considered it but their is akso the gearbox issue. I will put the std alloys on and just get rid of it.

Thinking of fitting the 18" triton alloy wheels off my s type onto my xj8 x308. Is it possible to do this or are they different pcd's.

Finally got back to the s type today and I have managed to get the water pump off. The impellors move freely so I was concerned because I was expecting it to be jammed or a little stiff. So checked the engine oil filler cap and it was showing a little sign of milky oil. Then pulled out the oil dipstick and it is covered in what looks like dirty muddy water. Well simjag it looks like you were right after all, it appears it must now be a head gasket problem. Check the picture With the dodgey autobox On top if this it looks like this car is now scrap.

I have a 2001 xj8 3.2 and plan on changing the gearbox oil soon. Can anyone help with advice on which oil to use and the best place to buy it from.

I have just fitted a solar panel to my s type in the last few days to stop it losing its power whilst not in use. It was only 13.99 from Aldi. I now know a charge controller is needed to stop it over charging. Can anyone tell me what amperage charge controller is needed as there are several available on ebay.

Not yet, probably not get out in it until tomorrow now.

Thanks for the reply. I have cleared the p1111 code as it says and got the code p1000 as it said it would. So not really to sure where to go from here. I'll try and find out what the intake air temp sensor is though.

I have cleaned mass air fliw sensor and put in new air filter and there is a slight improvement. It still sliw from about 30 but ok further up. I plugged my obd in to the car even though I have no lights on the dash It came up with the fault code P1111. So not realky sure what this issue is, hopefully someone can let me know. I haven't tried manually changing the gears but i will tomorrow.

Its fairly responsive when In the higher rev range but takes a while to Respond from low down. I believe it is the steel lined engine due to it being a 2001 model, i believe the nickasil was produced 99-00. Will be putting a new air filter in today and cleaning maf sensor.

The 2001 xj8 I bought last week is a bit sluggish, oress the accelerator and it seems to take an age to respond. Jag mechanic said it will need a new maf meter. This is expensive so hoping someone has alternative ideas why its sliw to take off.

Job done, only one bearing needed doing and its as quiet as a mouse now.

Have been quoted £100 + vat per side so have got it booked in tomorrow morning to get one done at jagtech. Think only one knackered at the moment.

Yesterday i bought a 2001 xj8 executive that needs front wheel bearings fitting, the noise is quite unbearable so need dojng fairly soon. The seller provided the 2 front bearings with the car so just need to have them fitted by a garage, preferably an independent or an ordinary garage. Can anyone give me an idea what I should be paying to have the work done.

In that case it might be a while as i won't be putting the s type back on the road for a while. Have the xj now, think all this needs is front wheel bearings fitting, luckily they came with the car.

Ok thanks.

I've bought a new 4 button remote off ebay, it starts the car but none of the buttons work. Tried pairing it using info of the internet but no luck. Any ideas on how to solve this.

Went to move my car yesterday andvt g d alarm went off and it wouldn't turn off when I put the key in the ignition so had to disconnect the battery. Fed up with all the problems thus car in s goving me so I have bought another car off ebay yesterday. Its a 2001 xj8 so hope i have more luck with this one. Will be collecting on Monday.

Just had a pump delivered yesterday however I won't be able to try and fit it until Sunday at the earliest due to work. I will update as soon as i can though.

Yes i am convinced its the pump now as i've just done the thermostat test in a pan of boling water, it opened 10mm so thats ok.

Checked the oil cap a few days ago and it was clean. I've been back out to the car and disconnected the radiator hoses top and bottom, and no blockage at all. So I removed the thermostat and bled the air and I now have hot water flowing through the rad. Took it for a spin and it started to overheat again after a couple of miles although only went 3/4 of the way up the gauge. I now think it is a water pump issue as its not forcing water through the thermostat yet still overheats. I'm not getting hot air but I think thats another issue being the heater valve. Any thoughts will be helpful.

No idea when it was done if it as at all. Wha tf s the besg nethod to flush the rad? Keeping fingers crossed its not head gasket failure.

Ok, i've fitted new stat and got engine upto normal running temperature. The top side of thermostat housing is hot but the bottom is cold. Top hose hot, bottom hose obviously cold but the rad is also cold. I can't see the new thermostat being jammed shut, I'm thinking I have a blockage in the rad so there is no flow. Any thoughts on this, if so how do you unblock them?

Will be putting a new thermostat in today but thinking about ordering a new water pump aswell. I notice that valeo and borg & beck make them, any idea which is the best make?

Hi, Jaguar say it is sealed for life but it isn't. It can be easily changed along with the new sump cover incorporating the filter. Your car sounds like it's ready for an oil change, willbe cheaper to have it done at an independent Jag garage . I'm sure others on the forum more knowledgeable than me will give advice shortly.

Well I have had a look at the car this morning and the expansion tank was low on water so I topped it up. Started the car and it came up to normal temperature with the needle in the middle, I let it run on the drive for a good 30 minutes and it held a steady temperature. I did notice that I was not getting hot air through the driver side air vents and just marginally warmer on the passenger side. I then took it for a drive and within a couple of miles it was in the red again. I checked under the bonnet and it looked like water had blown out of the expansion tank cap. I am assuming the heater valve is responsible for not getting heat through the vents but could this cause the cooling system to fail. I did check the rubber hoses off the heater valve and they were cold, this was immediately after I stopped so should they have been hot. Any ideas folks.