Mark Five
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Posts posted by Mark Five
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If my car was returned to me in that condition it would go straight back to them. As Joe says, it sounds like the tracking is completely off (but quite how it should have got to that condition is beyond me).
Cheers, Mark
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On 12/4/2019 at 10:17 PM, Son of S-Type Driver said:
In all cases, turning the engine off for about 10-20 second seems to clear the fault. For a while before the problem emerged, changes were sometimes a bit jolty in low gears changes, they still are a bit juddery at times (but equally a few moments later at the next set of traffic lights, can be as smooth as anything.
I am not fully convinced the problem is mechanical - turning the engine off and back on again seems to sort the error out, it only happens at slow stop/start conditions and in hot or cold temperatures.
I have a 2004 2.5 SE with 52k on the clock, and also have this issue in similar driving conditions, usually followed by a MIL after the third or fourth engine re-cycle - it happened 3 times to me today. Once I clear the MIL the gearbox behaves for a week or two, then it starts all over again. I've had opinions, each from different experienced sources, ranging from 'change the oil' (done), 'it's a sticky solenoid', 'the wiring gets too hot' to 'replace the gearbox'.
I'm going to buy myself an iCarSoft LR v.2.0 soon, and if necessary I'll be visiting these guys in Twickenham: http://www.rimsengineering.co.uk/
Regards, Mark
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Thanks chaps - I've taken another look and decided to heed your valuable advice and ordered a couple of tie bars from Berkshire Jags, at £70+VAT+delivery for the pair.
Hopefully the old ones will come off without too much trouble!
Cheers, Mark
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Thanks Frank - I see your point and will look at doing that at some point, but at the moment I'm looking for a quick fix to get it though the MOT. There's no play and according to the tester they look pretty clean. If the track rods are seized on I'll probably need heat, and then re-align, which is a bit of a faff for the amount of time I have.
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Hi all - I need to pick your brains!
I've just had an MOT failure on the rear track rod end dust covers - they're shot and need replacing. Does anyone know which size I'd need to order? I see there are various assorted kits available, but obviously I don't want to get the wrong ones!
Any help would be very much appreciated 🙂
Cheers, Mark
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For £20 you won't get one that's Jaguar-specific - it won't give you very much information at all, if any. It certainly won't compete with JLR diagnostic systems that dealers and independents have invested a few thousand pounds in..
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I can understand your wanting to keep the car, but at 300,000km (200,000 miles) I'd be reluctant to throw good money at it. You haven't mentioned anything about the engine, which must be pretty worn by now. After rectifying the current faults what would you do if the big ends start knocking or the rear crankshaft seal starts leaking? They're both engine-out jobs. I would guess that the cams must be pretty worn by now too. Great if you've got the time and facilities to do the work yourself, but if not there'd be some serious decisions to be made.
Again, it's a personal view, but I'd be looking for something else.
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Hi Martin, and welcome to the club.
I agree with Peter. Personally I'd weigh up whether or not the upcoming (and previous) work will keep the car on the road for any appreciable time; there inevitably comes a point of no return, particularly on a high-mileage car, and it may be that it's reached that point.
There's no harm in browsing for one with fewer issues and a lower mileage - you may find one at a good price that you like. I've had Jags all my driving life, and there'll always be one out there for you.
Regards, Mark
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Failed water pump? Failed thermostat? Air lock? Blocked radiator or hoses? Reduced or no air flow over the radiator? Also take a look at the Oil filler cap - if there's white sludge on it then it could be a head gasket.
Good luck sorting it.
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Found these on fleabay - one is from the U.S. and the postage is a bit steep, but it's something.. I'm sure they'd clean up pretty well
Obviously you'd need to check part numbers.
Cheers, Mark
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Hi Stephen, welcome to the club!
You could try these: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/C51.C5144.C5144259.C51442597099/brand/jaguar/
I'm not sure you'd find many breakers that have the bits you need but, personally, if you can find one I would only consider getting the flywheel from them.
Good luck!
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I agree with Joe re: the battery - I had bad problems with the 'gearbox fault' message until I replaced the battery, which cured the problem.
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Thanks for the replies chaps.
My changing the battery (for the first time since acquiring the car) was to attempt to remedy the frequent 'gearbox fault' the car was experiencing - it hadn't failed, but was simply a few years old. It seems that whatever voltage was available was used to start the engine, possibly at the expense of other electronics and software. Happily, it seems the problem has now been cured.
Until I can find a way of shrinking the battery by a couple of millimetres I've packed some support on either side of the battery - and when the shrinking happens I'll replace the 'clamp' with copious amounts of thread protection.
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I changed the car battery today. Was it easy? Yes, once I'd removed the damned vertical bolt that holds the retaining bar. You know, the one with the miniscule (8mm) bolt head that goes through the floor and gets so rusty it won't move unless you spray copious amounts of WD40 underneath the car, and have to wait 20 minutes? Yeah, that one.
It's the very same one you can't put back if the new battery is a millimetre or two bigger than the old battery..
Whatever happened to the old bar and two hooks with wing nuts!? Too simple, was it?
Rant over..
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Thanks for your replies guys.
I must admit that the fact it is already set up is the main attraction;
I've got an ongoing gearbox issue that I believe is electrical/electronic in nature (intermittent 'gearbox failure' that disappears as soon as I switch off and back on again), and I want to check all the appropriate sensors, throttle body, etc. before I go down the replacement route. It's now the second S-Type that's thrown up this problem, and there are numerous theories on forums that say what it might be. My reader shows there are no codes stored.
If the full kit is too expensive I may have to succumb to a visit to a dealership, but I'm worried they'll just say I need another 'box without looking for a more minor (repairable) issue first.
Cheers, Mark
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Hi all,
Have any of you bought this complete kit? Does it work? How much did it cost? The price is only visible if you give them your details first, which seems a bit over the top to me.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
Mark
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I'd get the rear wheels off the ground and work inwards, checking everything from warped discs, wheel bearing play, bushes, loose/leaking shocks and axle end float. I'd also get someone to drive behind me to see if either of the rear wheels are bouncing slightly at that speed (failing shock absorber?). You might also want to get the wheel alignment checked.
Good luck!
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Welcome to the club - enjoy your car! No, they're not illuminated - they're reflectors
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Last year the JOC organised a club stand, and will perhaps do so again this year. Either way, I/we intend to be there - it's definitely a good day out!
Cheers, Mark
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I've just dropped my car off at The Wheel Specialists, and thought I'd check to see if they are on the discount list - and they are. I gave them a quick call and got a very worthwhile 15% off 🙂
So lamenting the empty space in my garage has been somewhat diminished (but not entirely) by the saving of £50!
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Personally I wouldn't touch it with a bargepole - it looks too good to be true (so probably is). I'd get it remapped by a professional outfit.
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Has anyone had any experience of having a towbar fitted? I'm thinking of having one fitted but there's such an array of choices and prices that I'm finding it a bit of a minefield. I don't want any surgery on the rear bumper, as some are suggesting, so any recommendations or suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks in advance!
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I bought this one from Adamesh - it was a bit fiddly cutting the vertical slats out with a Dremel (try not to break the clips!). The insert was secured with a dab of epoxy resin. I must say it was quite satisfying doing the work myself..
https://www.adamesh.co.uk/jaguar-s-type-mesh-grille-insert---models-after-2004-1210-p.asp
Or you could buy this one:
https://www.adamesh.co.uk/jaguar-s-type-mesh-grille---chrome-surround-2004---2007-models-575-p.asp
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Thanks Peter - probably time to replace the battery then..
Regards, Mark
iCarSoft LR v2.0 - OBDII protocol problem?
in Jaguar S-Type Club
Posted
Hi all,
I've just purchased an LR v2.0 from a dealer and I'm getting a 'link error' when I try the 'OBDII/EOBD' function. It communicates OK with the 'Diagnostic' function though.
Has anyone else with this unit had the same issue? I've updated the software from iCarSoft, as recommended, but no joy (it works OK on a Honda Jazz, so I'm wondering if there's a protocol conflict)
Any advice gratefully received! Cheers, Mark