Mark Five

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Mark Five last won the day on September 27 2018

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About Mark Five

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    Greater London

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  1. Thanks Peter - probably time to replace the battery then.. Regards, Mark
  2. What would you consider to be 'low voltage'? My battery comes back with 11.4v, and I've had the odd lurch, 'gearbox fault' and engine MIL (all whilst moving), which clear themselves after an immediate restart. My 'short' runs are 2 x 13 miles, three times a week, and all in London..
  3. Hi all, I'm now on my second S-type, a 2004 2.5 auto with 45k on the clock. A few weeks ago I had the transmission sump replaced (warped & leaking) after getting 'gearbox fault' with increasing frequency - which I also had with a previous S-type (2001 with 3.0 + 70k). When it happens I reset the 'box by switching off the engine and immediately starting up again (sometimes with a rolling restart in neutral). I also get the odd thump (gearbox? diff?) when it's changing gear, and when I accelerate after slowing down with engine braking. The 'gearbox fault' went away with the new sump and fresh oil = but now it's back again! Most of my driving is commuting in town (14 miles each way), and at relatively low speeds (London!), so I'm wondering - is it my driving technique (slow acceleration and engine braking) or is there an inherent problem with these gearboxes? Any ideas? Cheers, Mark
  4. Here's the Portfolio spec: You might like to take a look at this too: Good luck!
  5. A few days ago I started getting the dreaded 'gearbox fault' warning, which cleared immediately after stopping and starting again (4 times on a 12 mile urban journey!). I took it straight to my tame indie who hooked it up to his diagnostic kit, which showed a problem with gears 2 and 3. The fault was cleared and we took it around the block, and all was fine - but for peace of mind I decided to get the oil changed, which meant a new sump (filter) too. Now here's the weird thing.. these gearboxes are supposed to be 'sealed for life', but the PLASTIC sump had warped and was slowly leaking fluid which, unsurprisingly, resulted in the gearbox fault warning and bad shifts. Only 3 litres was left in the gearbox, when it should have had 7! Yes, I should have checked the level, but I didn't. For some silly reason Jaguar decided to change the sump material from aluminium (which didn't warp with repeated heat cycles) to plastic (which does) - so if you're getting the same warning and symptoms that I did, check for oil leaks! Happy growling! Mark
  6. Unless you're happy with finding where the fault(s) lie, or you can take someone who can, personally I wouldn't touch it. It's £400 for a reason. If it's a stretched cable, great, but if it's a broken gearbox you're looking at big money. Cheers, Mark
  7. I had exactly the same problem, and this is what I found.. once the wiring was reconnected everything was fine (but I changed the O-rings while I had the valves out) Good luck!
  8. Hi everyone, If anyone is looking for a good, honest (and well-priced) indie, I can definitely recommend Alan Lloyd Motors in New Malden. I've used them for years (for things I can't, or won't, do), and they've always treated me fairly. They're a very small outfit and generally pretty busy, but I wouldn't go anywhere else. Cheers, Mark
  9. Hi Steve - it seems you're gradually getting the Jaguar bug.. you'll know you're fully infected when you go and admire it it the dark! Welcome to the club!
  10. UPDATE: It appears that when the dash-cam was hard-wired the key memory was wiped, probably through the wrong fuse being pulled (and re-inserted when they realised the mistake) - the same effect as having a flat car battery. On another note, and as R2e correctly said, all the methods described here didn't work on my particular vehicle - it had to be done via the indie's SDD/IDS system. Lesson learnt: don't let Halfords fiddle with your fusebox unless they know EXACTLY which fuse to pull.
  11. It's a case of breaking a window I think.. not ideal, but if you need urgent access that's the only solution I can think of.
  12. Thanks guys.. I tried all of the methods listed below so when I get some time I'll visit the indie.. I just can't understand why it should have failed in the first place - would mistakenly removing (then replacing) a particular fuse cause a code reset? If that happened when they were piggy-backing the dashcam wiring into the fusebox then i could understand that, and hopefully it would be an easy fix with the proper software.
  13. Thanks Steve - have just tried that method (and a couple of others) but to no avail - I'm just not hearing the chime with any of them.. it seems like the signal is just not getting through, or if it is, whatever activates the remote locking is knackered. Everything works fine otherwise, including locking the doors with the keys. I see there's mention of a door module battery in the fuses section of the handbook - I wonder if that's relevant? I'll take the car round to my local indie to get him to attach his magic box and see if he can diagnose what's going on, because I'm stumped! Mark
  14. UPDATE: went back to Halfords who checked over the wiring and connections, disconnected the dashcam wiring to see if that cured the problem (it didn't), and reconnected it all again. They put a new battery in the key and that didn't cure anything either (I said it need pairing again, they said it didn't). I tried pairing it today but all was silent (no chime) - so I'm still without remote locking. Halfords said to get it diagnosed and repaired by an independent/dealer, and they would cover the cost IF it could be proven it was their fault. So now I'm off to get a diagnosis.. Grrr.
  15. Hi everyone - I had a new dashcam hardwired by Halfords on Saturday, and when I got to my (distant) destination afterwards found that the remote locking wasn't working (but it locks ok with the key, and all other electrics work fine). I've tried the spare fob and that doesn't work either, so it's not the fob batteries. I took a look at the cockpit fusebox and they'd piggybacked it into F5, which doesn't mention anything to do with remote locking in the handbook. I'm taking it back to Halfords tomorrow, but after reading a few posts on here about remote locking problems I'm not confident they'll diagnose or fix it. Has anyone got any ideas or experience of this? I'm convinced the fault occurred at installation, so I hope it doesn't lead to a David & Goliath battle.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Mark 2004 S-Type 2.5SE auto with 43k miles