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Hi Paul Personally I would be moving to 15" or 16" as those tyres will simply become less and less safe the older they get, until at some point they will fail........ :( Found this which appears to be the 15" version of your metric wheels. Might be worth a try and see if they will ship to UK.... https://susuperdeals.shop/product/75661006133/?cid=803cf2e9053a846b4d3f76833657f3ff Good luck John

Welcome to the Forum, have a safe trip "North of the Border". N6 JMX

Hi Jonathan, quite a bit of difference between the XK and XKR, so better if you can try them out and see if you have a preference. Other major decision has to be Coupe or Convertible, as that too will impact on your selection process. Engine size needs to be considered - the earlier cars were 4.2 litre V8, whilst from late 2009 the engine size was 5.0 litre V8. Many aspects of the ride in the X-150 are down to personal preference. The cars look great on 20-inch wheels, but lots of folk complain about the ride being too harsh and seek out lesser diameter wheels. Note changing backwards from 20 to 18 is NOT possible on the XKR due to the size of the brakes / callipers. The JEC has a Classifieds Section, therefore mainly Enthusiasts' Cars on sale, and in the December issue, there are currently 10 off X-150 cars for sale with an almost equal split between Coupe and Convertible, but in my opinion the Convertible is the better looking model. Nowadays the price range is quite dramatic, with some being advertised at under £10k and I have seen some on AutoTrader at over £40k. Being based in Scotland, my own XKR Convertible is taken off the road (SORN) between October and March each winter so as to avoid the salted roads. Whilst the body architecture is all aluminium, there are steel subframes underneath and these can suffer very badly from corrosion, so be sure to look underneath any car you view - take a good strong flashlight - although most of the front subframe will be hidden under a plastic tray, but the rear subframe will be readily accessible to see. Corrosion of the aluminium body is always possible too, especially where stone chips have been present, or loose trim traps water and can vibrate through the coating. If you want any additional insight / help, come back trough the Forum or drop me a PM. N6 JMX

Well I might be premature in updating this thread but... I never did find the parking sensor control module. Looked in boot, behind LH and RH boot trims, under seats, under bonnet, under dashboard etc. All difficult to access with horrible plastic clips etc. Jaguar wiring diagrams didn't help as I found many that covered my year of car and all showed the module in different places - why the need to move it around so much? It's as if the installer changed stuff every day on the production line. However I did notice a small water stain near the junction box (fuse box) rear on the RH side of the boot. I noticed the filler cap water vent pipe was blocked so unblocked it and not had the issue since. Maybe water was somehow getting into the boot and running through the fuse box causing the issue when it rained. Time will tell.

Hi Steven, remove fuses F4 10A, F21 15A and F31 30A, all in the auxiliary junction which is located between the rear seats. Make sure the radio is switched off on the panel first.

HI I have this issue occuring now - did you ever get an answer?

Does a replacement unit have to be reprogrammed

Hi thanks for letting me know just had it done at 740 pounds

Hi, this sounds just what I am looking for as your post was a few years ago, is this still available?.

Hi just some screen shots of error codes that are on now

Put all the windows down and then spray silicone lube spray into the top of the window channels for a few seconds, preferably using one of those long spouts. Only spray onto the vertical/near vertical parts of the window channels. Once all sprayed, start the car (to avoid flattening the battery) and exrecise all windows up and down several times. Not sure if you have Toolstation in Eire but this is the sort of stuff : https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-sp-90-silicone-lubricant/p34151 It's also good for spraying on door seals, leave to soak and then gently wipe off the excess to help prevent the door seal freezing to the doors in cold weather.

just in case anyone follows up here, sadly D Tronix in liquidation August 2024

N6 JMX - Many thanks for your help, very much appreciated. DM sent.

Friend of mine had this on a Merc recently, turned out to be throttle switch giving a false idle situation to the ECU - might be worth looking at. The logic behind it was you don't want the engine revving when you're meant to be at idle or braking etc.

Hello John, thanks for your reply, l am going to call into my local garage for a diagnostics result, just took the car there for the MOT seems a decent bloke, see how that goes, strange about the radio though, usually manage through trial and error to fix small issues as they arise, but as you say, l need to pinpoint the cause or just keep throwing money at maybe faults. Took the car to an independent jag specialist in Milton Keynes once for a problem, very good very reasonable but a fair distance away, could be another visit there l think! Thanks again John.

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Thanks for advice.

Almost certainly the fob buttons are worn. They can be replaced by an eBay kit and swapped with some soldering. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172182298119

Does the removal of Gerry McGovern, the architect of the woke advert and rebranding, have any deeper meaning in the future of JLR? He is the JLR Executive that stood on the podium (almost 1 year ago) at the unveiling of the Type 00 and stated that Jaguar was not interested in its heritage customers! This did create a bit of outrage at the time, but was shushed over by others in support of the woke approach. Coincidental that the new CEO - from the Tata parent group, replacing Mardell, has only just taken full control of the company when McGovern departure is announced? N6 JMX

Wardy, I found it was the relay in the engine fuse box that wasn't properly pushed in. It fired up straight away after I did this! Tim

Thanks

I'm assuming when you say "bearing" you actually mean the plastic bushes in the linkage? If so, try this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146139281240 I bought a similar kit for my Honda CR-V some 2-3 years ago and it's working as well now as it did when i fitted it after a similar game to yours of replacing the entire linkage and motor assembly only to find it came from a Japanese (instead of Swindon like mine) built CR-V so had some wiring problems. Glad you mentioned this as mine is starting to wear on my '99 S Type so i had to search for the part you need and the part i need! With absolutely no sarcasm intended, thanks for having this problem! It's what the forum is all about - one person has a problem without an immediate solution but someone, somewhere has and has the easy solution.

Many thanks for the suggestion but doing this is beyond my own skill level! I will let a Jaguar mechanic have a go. Dennis G

Hi Colin, you indicate your problem is with the X-150 model, but your profile descripting infers you have the X-100 model from 2001, need to clarify which model you have the issue with. Before you changed the battery, did you have any need to jump start the car? If yes, then you may have fried the video screen that is the display in the X-150 model. N6 JMX