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For Sale - my beloved 2007 XJ6 which I have owned for 10 years is looking for a new home. The car is in great condition for its age and has been well looked after, but as with all cars of a certain age, it does now need some TLC. I no longer have the bandwidth to continue maintaining it. I will give an honest appraisal of the issues I know need fixing - the rest in terms of service history, maintenance and regular care means you're still getting a lot of car for the money, if you are prepared to spend a little more you will have a great car that should last many more years. The car has done a mix of local (30%) and motorway (70%) driving in the time I've owned it. Highlights: **Full Jaguar Service History** - serviced / parts and maintenance all supplied from JLR dealership local to me. - Engine is solid, punchy and still sounds fabulous. 135K Miles. - Cream Leather interior - generally very good. One or two minor marks but otherwise looks good as new. Driver seat wear commensurate with daily use, but still well maintained. - Heated Seats - Heated Mirrors - Parking Sensors - Toolkit (present, with locking wheel nut) - Timing chain (serviced per manufacturers guidance) - Overall really good condition - interior is very good, with the exception of the headlining starting to sag (a known feature of old Jags). - MOT due November 2025. - Exterior - a few blemishes, one surface scratch to driver door (jealous neighbour), small dent to driver side wing above headlight, small area of paint bubble to passenger side door. Otherwise the paintwork is sound and she cleans up very nicely. - Alloys ok, some scuffs. Things I've fixed/replaced/cried and laughed about, and lived to tell the tale (this list is not exhaustive): - Electrical wiring loom - Drivers mirror (due to mirror heater defect) - DPF filter (historically replaced, occasionally still get the 'DPF Full' amber light on, but an energetic drive usually clears it) - Undertray / fixings - Windscreen washer pump - Fuel tank straps - Front track rod ball joints - Suspension components (arms/wishbones/bushes) as required over time - Rear brake drums Stuff that will need fixing if you want to enjoy this car for many more years: - Gearbox sump pan is showing some oil leaking - needs investigating. Gearbox can be a little sticky coming out of Park, so suggest needs work. - Exhaust fumes escaping - cat seals - Jaguar recommended either to use a repair kit, or if no expense is spared, the replace the catalytic converters. - Pipes/corrosion (brake pipes, general wear and tear, need replacing) Tyres/brake pads will need maintenance in line with regular servicing (already recommending to replace soon at last inspection) Lastly, please note that the car has a few registration plate changes: - Plate from first registration was BG07 BHO - Private plate on the car from 2016 until 2025 - When I took the private plate off - the DVLA issued me with a new registration LS07 LFV, which is the plate on the car now, and on the V5. This is because I had made an administrative error during the initial transfer to my private plate, and so as a result, BG07 BHO is on retention (I have the retention certificate). £3000 ONO All documents and service history etc are available for inspection on request. Car is listed on other sites.

First port of call would be a JLR dealer for preference. Next Timpsons - i believe they can now decode your existing key and fob and supply new, programmed replacements. There may be other suppliers online that can reproduce the key and fob, worth an internet search.

Have you had the sock absorber top mount checked not sure if there is a bearing on the top of the shock or just the rubber mount.may even be the collar at the top of the spring.

I have an XKR MY 2010. It has IPod and USB interfaces. It plays from the IPod. But when I insert a USB flash drive (32GB FAT32 .mp3 files) the system sees it but permanently displays DOCK USB. Does anybody know what I am doing wrong? Jim

welcome back 😉

Thanks Joe, they are up near where I bought the car, will take a look

That doesn't sound like an EGR related problem to me, more like a DPF or fuel supply problem. Try https://superchargedperformance.co.uk/ in Bury St Edmunds, to my knowledge they've sorted a 2.2 XFD and a Range Rover 3.0 V6D with good results

Ideally you should hook up a code reader first to see what the car says. No need whatsoever to have the engine running to check the sensors. That advice should be ignored as it is inherently dangerous…….

Right there with you scooby, changing is always better

Overtake

Check your front tyre pressures and then if you don't find anything, check the front dampers (shock absorers) and front suspension bushes. Also have the wheel alignment checked - all of these things can cause the steering to go exceptionally light at speed.

I run my BMW Z3 on Super-Unleaded only, but as you are saying PDS it's becoming more difficult nowadays to find stations with an E5 pump. I recently spoke to a forecourt attendant and he said they were not stocking it until the new pumps are installed - quite why it needs new pumps to dispense it, or whether it is accelerated decay of the rubber, etc in the current E5 pumps? Either way, the benefits far outweight the extra cost of the E5 in my opinion. Between 1500 and 2500 rpm the engine was always flat on acceleration....switched to E5 and its where it should be now - smooth as silk all through the rev ranges. Not only the driveability of the car has transformed but the economy is much better too. I don't see going back to E10 has any benefit for older cars. However, running E5 in my motorbikes seems to have very little noticable benefit that I can determine (as yet).

I just purchased a 2009 XKR and am getting ready to store it away from a Michigan winter. The storage building doesn't allow access for the 5 month storage time and requires that the battery be unhooked. Is there any problems or loss of computer info storing it for 5 months without the battery hooked up???

Thanks so much. I’ll put the battery on charge and take it from there. Thanks for the quick reply.

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.😊 Loving the “moggy” in the corner.😎

You may wish to include price, mileage and general condition in order to generate interest.

it will be easier to paint them? plenty of mobile wheels painters around

That's good enough for me, as it just looks good, My partner is having her nails done on Sat morning so I will be going with her to get the colours of my choice. I do not know why Green and Orange are the colours on an XKR, do you or anyone else know? I am a bit patriotic and will be going for Red and Blue, but I am told you can buy nail varnish in these colours. I will post a shot Spyderromeo

Found this, hope it helps; To remove the 2007 Jaguar S-Type front grille, you need to unlatch the hood, then locate and remove two nuts/bolts at the top rear of the grille assembly. After removing the fasteners, you must unclip the plastic tabs that project from the rear of the grille frame by gently easing them outwards. With the nuts, bolts, and tabs disengaged, the entire grille can be removed from the car

It seems that the fuel tank sender float is not working. It needs replacing . Make sure its the right length when you buy.

Thanks all!

Thanks Chaps, I'll check them out, also thank you for the advice. Regards Paul

Hi Jim Yep there are loads and loads of posts about this little baby, and it seem like everybody has had a go at it in one way or another. But loads of failures. I am going to try the close all the vents try to build up pressure (not sure where from) also I have also ordered a endoscope from Temu £14.88 colour 4.31 inch screen how can we compete with that !! and if the air pressure doesn't work I will try the scalpel on the end of a pencil method, there are also some methods which use silicon liquid or gel but you need adult verification to use this method. As an aside (I just received a 12 piece 1/2 socket set just to fit my torque wrench from Temu the quality is good, not snap-on good but it has a good ratchet, 10 sockets up to 24mm, and a extension piece, and it came in a metal case including postage for £5.81, and was here in 4 days). Brand new special offer you can buy a brand new SpaceX rocket to take you to the moon for just over £50 !! Who would be in manufacturing. Will let you all know what works best (may take a week of two). Spyderromeo

I had my 2015 X250 3.0D S serviced this week. When I got in the car today, the "Low Washer Fluid" warning came on and I immediately thought of the well known fault where a leaking washer pump can ruin the car's electrics by leaking water onto the ECU. I tried to check the actual level of the water but despite my best efforts couldn't see the level - is there any way of checking the actual washer water level, just in case it is the sensor that has failed rather than the water level actually being low? Also, am I right in saying that the ECU that can become corroded by the water leaking, is the one behind the removable door to the right of the accelerator pedal? I checked this and as far as I can tell it's all bone dry. Mine is one of the very last X250s, produced in mid April 2015 and the VIN is later than the one mentioned in the Jaguar America bulletin on this issue so in the past I've assumed won't suffer this well known fault but on reflection, I think it's worth me booking the car into a specialist that knows of this problem to get it checked and to go for the spliced wire modification - even if my car is a later one which wasn't affected, I think the mod is worth doing for piece of mind. I'll also ask if they can check if the washer pump is leaking and whether any water has got into the ECU area so they can dry it out. Am I right in thinking that the battery doesn't need to be disconnected to do the wire mod? Many thanks in advance.

Body panels still available