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  2. Hi Jim, below is some pointers I posted a couple of weeks ago for someone else looking at procuring a New XK (X-150) with the aluminium body. There was a specific car in mind for this chap, so some of my comments are car / mileage specific. The 4.2 New XK was only available from introduction in 2006 until MY 2008, meaning you may find a 2009 car, but most of the 2009 cars will be 5.0 litre engined. I regularly keep an eye on the Classifieds and right now there are a few 4.2 litre convertibles for sale, but practically all are the NA XK, as opposed to the S/C XKR. Let us know if there are any specifics yu come across in your search. N6 JMX There is quite a bit of information around on various Forums in regard to the New XK (X-150) model, which production ceased in 2014, despite some registrations taking place in 2015. I appreciate that you state you would like a 4.2 litre engine, but you should not discount the 5.0 litre engine, especially in Supercharged format. Most of what I gave below will also apply to the 4.2 litre engine. The 5.0 litre engines are very reliable, but there are some areas to watch out for, like the supercharger coupling. A relatively simple and cheap fix, but not if you go to a dealer. Listen to the top of the engine at tick over. At 86k miles, the gearbox oil should have been changed, probably around 60k miles so check that has been undertaken. Supercharger belts and serpentine belts should have been changed at 10-years, so check service records. Look at the MoT history on the free DVLA check website. The aluminium bodies are very good, but can still corrode. Areas to look at are the boot, above the plinth. Here is a water trap and if the boot plinth is loose, it can rub through the paint allowing the corrosion cell to develop. Other areas are on the A-pillars and the front of the roofline, where stone chips have been allowed to progress - check for bubbling. Easily fixed, but the bodyshop needs to know how to work on aluminium panels. Aluminium corrosion that hasn't broken through the paint looks surprisingly like rust bubbling, so check these areas, the leading edge of the bonnet and the rear bodywork after the doors, ahead of the rear wheels Biggest area of concern is underneath where the subframes meet the monocoque. If the car has been used all year round, and at 86K on a 2012 model, that sounds to be the case, then exposure to salt roads can cause significant corrosion on the underside. It also may not need to be a year round car, there is a suspicion that living in the salt laden air by the seaside can cause the same issues, so spend plenty of time scrutinising the underbody. Inside, the interiors are very robust, but wear on the driver's seat could be an issue to be sorted with a repair kit, or a good trimmer. Note that the convertible can get quite grubby with road dirt if driven plenty with the top down and not regularly cleaned / treated. All of the switchgear should be tested and all of the various screens / menus on the centre touchscreen should be checked and working. A lot of functionality is controlled via the touchscreen. Obviously check there are no warning lights illuminated on the dash and if available, check for stored codes via the OBD port. Depending on your own abilities, or skill levels, it may be worthwhile investing in a full inspection of the vehicle by an "expert" either from a Club, or one of the motoring organisations. If you have any doubts, come back here, with details / photos and the community will get back to you. N6 JMX
  3. Today
  4. Hi I am Jim I have owned my XJ8 from new to scrap yard at the weekend. It has been a magnificent beast it looked like it had just left the showroom but the underside was beyond repair. I now want to replace it but I am scared of another run in with the tin worm. The car I am considering is an XKR 4.2 L V8 with a six speed auto gearbox convertible. I want a good one when I buy it but over the years (it is going to be my last car) it will be developed into a fabulous car. The body is aluminium I understand does this mean safety ? I am an ex BL BIW production Engineering manager so know quite a bit about car bodies. I worked for Triumph and the Truck division. I still have a track day car ( 550 Spyder replica ) which I use for hill climbs. What say you all any advice will be welcome. Jim
  5. Yesterday
  6. Paul, the issue of the congealing fluid in the convertible roof hydraulic system refers to the X-100 cars, early XK8 up to the late nineties. It is not necessary to replace the fluid in the circuit on the X-150 vehicles. Of course leakage can occur due to hose / pipework aging, so you may wish to consider that in the future, but carry out a pipework inspection first. The hydraulic circuit is self bleeding. N6 JMX
  7. My 2013, xf soft close has stop working, and now I'm having trouble closing. Most times when I try and close the boot it will pop open. Any thoughts please.
  8. Evening All, I have owned my car 2 and half years now and while the convertible top works perfectly well (and always has done) i was wondering should i be changing the hydraulic pump fluid? When i purchassed the car the original owner (i am the second) passed me every service invoice since the car was new and after checking the pump fluid has never been changed which means it's been in the system some 18yrs! Shouls i leave well alone or change it as preventative maintence?
  9. Hi Terry, obviously this should not be happening to a 2013 era car, but it depends on what, if anything, the offending areas have been subjected to in the past. Do not use any solvent type cleaners, but try an internal detailer fluid, such as Meguiar's, to see what can be cleaned up. Do not spray the detailer direct onto the steering wheel surfaces, but onto a microfibre cloth and then work the solution into the cloth before tackling the control thumb wheels on the steering wheel. Work the areas around the controls and then wipe clean using a dry / clean microfibre cloth. If the Meguiar's doesn't do the trick, mix up a weak solution of lukewarm water and washing up liquid. Again using a microfibre cloth, soak it in the prepared solution and wring it out thoroughly until the cloth is just moist / damp, once again work the cloth over the controls and then dry with a second cloth, or a hairdryer if you have gotten the area a bit too wet. N6 JMX
  10. Hi Andrew, I assume you have not yet undertaken a trial fit of your 18 inch space saver, at least to the front axle of your XKR? As Jim has stated above, the 18 inch, red wheel WILL NOT FIT the XKR as a consequence of the larger front brake callipers. It has to be the 19 inch space saver for the XKR, which in Jaguar supplied days was black in colour, whilst the 18 inch was red. Nowadays, there are multiple companies offering space saver spare wheels and one can no longer rely on selecting by the colour of the wheel. I have spotted black space savers that are only 18 inch. Anyone who needs / wants to procure a space saver spare wheel needs to take due care and attention so as not to be caught out. And, DEFINATELY do not elect to purchase a suitable standard (front) road wheel as that would be dangerous if fitted to the car in a puncture situation. In these cases, it is not a diameter issue to fit over the rear callipers, but it is an "offset" issue to avoid binding on the spokes on the rear. Look at a company called Road Hero, who use Kwik Fit as a retail agent. They offer a complete kit, including chocks and jack, which all came with the Jaguar supplied version. N6 JMX
  11. Hi Paul, I went through the same problem. I contacted local Jag dealer in Kent the part number is XR8 53595 and it is an 18 inch rim and red in colour. Unfortunately they are not stocked by Jaguar anymore and the only place to find one with the insert tool kit is Ebay and slightly used. Hope this helps. Mine is a 2014 XKR convertible so if I do have a puncher it will be cosy in the back seat when running on the spare, lol. Cheers Andrew
  12. the steering wheel controls for radio and cruise control have gone sticky looks like something is peeling,any ideas?
  13. Looking for recommendation for reasonably priced reliable for my 2004 V6 Thanks in advance
  14. Last week
  15. You should see 'Add Images in the top right corner (on desktop) and if you are signed in you can create a new album and add photos to it
  16. Thanks Jim. just back from over the pond.
  17. how can i add to my gallery or create a new one
  18. Hi thankyou for your quick reply and for all your information, I will do as much information digging as I can, and look forward to seeing an XK-R on my drive.
  19. Hi Howard, there is quite a bit of information around on various Forums in regard to the New XK (X-150) model, which production ceased in 2014, despite some registrations taking place in 2015. The 5.0 litre engines are very reliable, but there are some areas to watch out for, like the supercharger coupling. A relatively simple and cheap fix, but not if you go to a dealer. Listen to the top of the engine at tick over. At 86k miles, the gearbox oil should have been changed, probably around 60k miles so check that has been undertaken. Supercharger belts and serpentine belts should have been changed at 10-years, so check service records. Look at the MoT history on the free DVLA check website. The aluminium bodies are very good, but can still corrode. Areas to look at are the boot, above the plinth. Here is a water trap and if the boot plinth is loose, it can rub through the paint allowing the corrosion cell to develop. Other areas are on the A-pillars and the front of the roofline, where stone chips have been allowed to progress - check for bubbling. Easily fixed, but the bodyshop needs to know how to work on aluminium panels. Aluminium corrosion that hasn't broken through the paint looks surprisingly like rust bubbling, so check these areas, the leading edge of the bonnet and the rear bodywork after the doors, ahead of the rear wheels Biggest area of concern is underneath where the subframes meet the monocoque. If the car has been used all year round, and at 86K on a 2012 model, that sounds to be the case, then exposure to salt roads can cause significant corrosion on the underside. It also may not need to be a year round car, there is a suspicion that living in the salt laden air by the seaside can cause the same issues, so spend plenty of time scrutinising the underbody. Inside, the interiors are very robust, but wear on the driver's seat could be an issue to be sorted with a repair kit, or a good trimmer. All of the switchgear should be tested and all of the various screens / menus on the centre touchscreen should be checked and working. A lot of functionality is controlled via the touchscreen. Obviously check there are no warning lights illuminated on the dash and if available, check for stored codes via the OBD port. Depending on your own abilities, or skill levels, it may be worthwhile investing in a full inspection of the vehicle by an "expert" either from a Club, or one of the motoring organisations. If you have any doubts, come back here, with details / photos and the community will get back to you. N6 JMX
  20. Jaguar Classic Parts offer period correct looking radio heads with all of the modern technologies incorporated - they cost circa £1,000 + VAT, so your desire is available, but at a cost. Alternatively, you can visit your local Halfords or Auto Store and speak with the incredibly young looking technician who will set you up with everything you need at a fraction of the cost from Classic Parts. N6 JMX
  21. Looking to buy a XKR 2012 with 86k on the clock. Can anyone help with what to check and look for before I spend my cash please.
  22. Hello, I'm looking for a new head unit for my x308, I Want Bluetooth and android auto capabilities aswell as fitting the looks of the interior, can anyone help? Thanks in advance
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