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I'd read the DTCs first before you fire the parts cannon at it. It sounds like the whole bank is effected so i'd look more at a fuel delivery/pressure problem on that bank and as a general bit of maintenance, run some injector cleaner through it.

This thread has a load of info with pictures on how to fix it without having to remove the dash. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/c-drain-duck-bill-fix-my-solution-149349/

Hi, I have a 2003 S-type 2.5l, 150,000km. When cold starting, the engine starts fine and the rpm is around 1,500rpm. After a few seconds, when the rpm starts to drop, the engine starts to run very rough, and the engine light starts to come on, sometimes flashing. After a few more seconds, when the rpm reaches around 1,000rpm, the engine runs fine again, which it then continues to do while driving. The error code is ''misfire cylinder 1 -3 -5''. I suspected that it could be a vacuum leak, and replaced all the gaskets on the intake. I also replaced the plugs and coils, but none of this has helped. Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong?

I am sure this is a well known problem. I have had several proposal to cure it. The fault occurred when I turned off the Air con so suspect melt from A/C condenser, it shows up as two streams of water dripping on either side of footwell, and is influenced by the motion of the car on bends. I have been told that there are drain valves on to tray that collects water when A/C is defrosted. The valve is called the duckbill, and I think from my Triumph days we called it the Phart valves but I bet they are the same, Triumphs being relatively unsophisticated cars were easy to get at, because they didn't have much to get in the way . I have even found a VIN number which after this the fault is supposedly cured. The description I read said they were very difficult to get at. My workshop guy who is off work at he moment, heart plumbing! say's it is easy but you need to get up on a 4 pillar lift and poke something up the tube. With solutions like this, my hope is that you guy's have an easy solution. Any suggestions and full descriptions of methods would be gratefully received. Spyderromeo

Bye the way I have a silver grey car Lunar Grey and the number plate and boot open surround was grey painted ( Slightly different colour to the car, there was nothing wrong with it but the new chrome one I purchased on eBay new but old stock was beautiful and after a short polish it looks absolutely fantastic well worth the effort and so easily done after a short watch of the afore mentioned you tube video, what do people call them they are not videos or DVD,s ?? Spyderromeo

Yeah, never believed the Lifetime BS I have purchased Dexron VI, hope it works FYI IF anyone is interested in my journey with this 2006 Jaguar S Type R check out my YouTube channel JAGVETTE1

Susceptance

Resistence

If you go down the Lanogard route, it needs an annual inspection and top up treatment, but it doesn't go "hard" the same as Waxoyl. N6 JMX

Sounds like a good plan, I think if I administer the protection myself I will do a good job, but I have been told by a few people that they don't think there is any DIY job that is as thorough as a professional one and it can't be done really well without access to a full 4 post lift, and that access and visibility are key to a good job. Just a point to think about. Spyderromeo

Hi Jim, doing the research now, while both protect, they are quite different.

Hi N6 JMX, thanks for explaining, good to know. I was aware it was a model x150, but thought it was still an xk8. I have had the car ceramic coated, should I also wax it before putting the car cover on?

Thanks sypderromeo, I will look out for that supplier

Sorry about the crazy characters in the description of my car I am going to blame software as it was not there when I checked it. XKR X150 4.2 litre blower convertible.

Jim I am well aware of these vid's heritage, but, thanks for pointing out they are from AI sources. Not that in this instant AI is a problem ( I will save my AI rant till a later date). I know all the bad things about them. but you have to give credit to the results. The same source did a fabulous recreation of the VW Beetle, Morris Minor and the E Type. I would happily drive around in this particular Jaguar futuristic AI design, but I would not drive the pink and yellow creations! from should I say "new jag". The aim of the post was to point out a really acceptable development of what I trust this community, I have assumed would like to move on to. I don't know if I am correct so let's test it. I also wanted to get my point about IC engines out into the open, I know I am not the first, but we really don't need to think for the conceivable future we will need to drive around lugging vast amounts of lead in batteries, that really have not developed where everyone said they would. I love the sound of burning petrol but will, if absolutely necessary drive an electric car. But at the moment we get most of our electric from burning fossil fuels so we are trying to walk, before we can even stand up, so what's the point. I see most Automotive Co's around the Globe are coming around to this line of thinking except for new jag who are ditching a wonderful heritage and going for something that still has massive problems. Spyderromeo

Behind the rear number plate is the emergency key access. Remove the blade from the fob and open the boot that way. if you can’t open the boot that way then there is the emergency positive post behind the rear passenger side wheel that you can hook up to.

My XK4.2 Convertible / I cannot access the battery to charge it as the boot is locked and I therefore need to clip on my charger to another source under the bonnet. The doors will open as will the bonnet. Can you advise?

Hi Mark, if your car is 2009, then it is an XK and NOT an XK8 - the production of the XK8 finished in 2005. Your profile photo is also of the XK - or as it was called at the launch "The New XK". Going forward, both of you above have the Jaguar model X-150 - 2006 - 2014, as opposed to the X-100, which was the 1996 - 2005 model designation. External car covers are what they are and, good or bad, they will flap around in the wind and mark your paintwork, so get a good coat of wax on the body before placing the car cover on top. N6 JMX

Jim, these videos are produced via AI, not by new wizard designers. Be very careful clicking on them as you never know what is buried deep within the coding. These are threads on here about the Jaguar rebranding, just look beyond the "New Owner Introduction" tab. N6 JMX

Hi Jim, you can wash the fabric top in almost the same manner as the remainder of the bodywork, i.e. with a quality car shampoo in a bucket of warm water and a microfibre mitt. I have had convertible fabric tops on my cars for a long time and, believe it it not, I do power wash the roof but obviously not using the full beans output of the power washer. Angle the flat spray so as to sweep across the top, moving the soapy suds over the top until there is no residue. Then get a clean, lint free, type cotton towel - typically an old bath towel, although a microfibre drying towel will also work, and dry the fabric by drawing the towel across the car as opposed to along the car, you will see the effect after the first sweep, but use 2 passes. I also use Meguiars convertible top protector to top up the waterproofing - it beads just like the paintwork but disappears quicker than your waxed areas. I actually produced an article for the JE magazine a few years back, which if you want to PM me with your email address, I can send you a copy. N6 JMX

Hi Jim, I believe the original colour highlights within the rear badge on the XKR were not paint, but sticky back plastic, a la Blue Peter. They do lift at the corners and ultimately come off during washing. Suggest you find some suitable plastic and glue this back in place to complete the look. N6 JMX

I'd have a look online in your home area (it says non-UK so no idea where in the world you are) and find a Dexron VI compatible fluid and use that, especially if you plan on periodic part-changes or full changes to maintain it. A quick search revealed that Pentosil #1 is a "life-time fluid" so is likely to be more expensive and won't necessarily last the life of your box. I'd prefer to do a part-change once a year or so to maintain the fluid than use a "lifetime fluid" that maybe breaks down and kills my gearbox. Each to their own though.......

just surfing the internet and it seems that was the one to use, and yes my car does have the ZF box

Thank you Jimbov! Exactly whats needed. Cheers

Here’s one Rob; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146821469326