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Hi all, Glad to have joined your excellent site. Hopefully get to broaden my experience of being a Jag owner. All the Best.

Hi Everyone, Trying to find the clips to fix my 2007 S-Type rear door exterior chrome frame finisher. Initially it was just the trailing edge that had parted company with the door as the tiny x-clips had broken. Think they just age-harden then crack. I managed to get replacement x-clips from Jag dealer (£££), but there is an odd / different clip at the top of the C-post capping which the dealer says is no longer available - see pics. Having removed the finisher to replace the x-clips, the odd clip doesn't want to retain the finisher anymore. If I'd have known, I wouldn't have completely removed finisher....doh! Before I try something drastic like using a good quality sealant adhesive to retain the finisher at that clipping point, though I'd ask a knowledgeable community for advice. Any help appreciated.

We’ll triumph, Dave lol. Keep me posted on how you get along with everything. The suspension job sounds like a big undertaking, and not one I would relish. Next for me is broken glow plug removal and then full service. I’m praying the heater core doesn’t need to come out. Speak soon, mate. All the best, and give me shout if you need anything. Take care.

That's a weird one, never encountered that before, Hope you manage to get to the bottom of it mate.

I found - what I believed to be coolant - dripping from the Ac pipe, just in front of the transmission, and behind (I think) the power steering hose, that sort of region — at the back of the largest section of the belly pan. However, I took her out recently, for a very aggressive drive, and when I parked up, there was steam(?) billowing out from the left (viewed from driver’s seat) of the engine, no coolant in the expansion tank (lol), and a shi*load of colourless, slightly viscous, scentless liquid pi**ing out of the belly pan, in the region I described previously. I decided it was normal after reading that water is naturally released from the AC system. Seams to me the engine is maybe overheating for some reason. I checked the coolant temp after said drive, and it was only around 95 celsius. I dunno, Dave 🤷🏻‍♂️ IMG_5013.mov

Hello all, I've sadly had my beautiful 2007 XJ Sovereign written off following being hit broadside by a cross road jumper. if anyone is selling a vehicle that fits the description in the title of this post, or knows of one at one of their local car dealer, I would grateful to hear from you. It's flexible on most except the year range, unless a 2010 is around, black would be an option, not red or white definately and maybe a bit higher mileage if otherwise a match. Thanks.

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Armoured

My X type is Jagatha, I was watching Vikings when I first got her and wife caught me drooling over Lagatha in the series, she then named the car Jagatha and said the Jag can be my one and only mistress 🤣

I wasn't aware of the 2 litre having a dpf, if the last owner say's he has removed it then I would imagine he would have blanked the Egr too, It is easy to check, the dpf would be visible on the exhaust system near the front as a large canister and if it has been gutted there may be welds on it that don't look like original factory welds, I am not aware of a delete pipe but the last owner could have had one made, also the egr would have a blank between the Egr and the manifold, there are companies that would be able to stage 1 remap the ecu, deleting the egr and dpf if it has one and also add around 30hp which makes the fueling and gear change better and making the car a lot more user friendly. I have been quoted £250 for egr delete and stage 1 mapping.

I did the Mr muscle on mine when I first got her, Drilled and tapped a hole in rear and injected a load of it in, left it for an hour while I was pulling the egr and inlet manifold to give both a good clean, I worked the actuator arm back and forth every now and then to make sure the Mr Muscle was getting everywhere. Had no ill effects and apart from a cough, a little splutter and a load of smoke coming out, she was much better on a run and idled better too. Handy tip for you, the folding straw cap on a wd40 can fits on the Mr muscle and makes it easier to get right inside.

Thanks for the reply Marty, Yeah I'm the same when it comes to quote or reply. The Boost hose goes from the intercooler up to the egr valve, mines in 2 peices with the sensor in between, not sure about the S types, never seen under the bonnet of one. I'll sort a blank out ands leave everything in its place, my mot bloke is a good guy and doesn't mind it being blocked off just has to be in place. I have to do the glow plugs before winter, I'm going to soak them for a few days before and after a journey, I heard they can be a pain, I watched a video on you tube on how to use a kit for removing a broken one, I have heard about the throttle body butterfly mod, haven't looked into the pro's and con's, I will do though. Regarding your S Type, Have you found any water puddled or dripping?, I had a 4x4 once that randomly lost a little coolant on booting it, turns out I had a weep from the water pump. I've just done a full clutch change on mine, next up is oil and filter change then Air con recharge, after that tyres then full suspension and some bushes and lastly a wheel bearing. After all that is done I'll book it for a remap.

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Hi, Dave Hope you’re keeping well (never sure whether to “quote” or just reply to the topic lol). I completely blanked it off at the throttle body and where the pipe meets the — cooler(?), and removed the two pipes completely. So, four plates in total for the S Type (X2004). Not sure if the X Type is the same. I got no light or anything, and I didn’t remove the throttle body butterfly, because I wasn’t sure how, even though others advise to do so. Not sure if this makes a difference or not. I did some research on my model and discovered that deleting the EGR from the ECU isn’t necessary. However, if the garage is going to sort all that out for you, then let them get on with it. Maybe they’ll discover it’s unnecessary. I dunno. I’d have to research the X Type to know. Not sure if it was related, but I got an “unusal flow” (or something like that) alert recently. I removed the throttle body, checked the butterfly actuator, tightened the blanking plates, refitted everything, and now everything is fine again. unrelated to the EGR, but as an aside, I recently replaced the glow plugs (bit of a nightmare job) and the last one snapped off. So now I have to figure out how to remove that. Oh, joy. Incidentally, it seemed that the ones on the left bank(?) - passenger side - were all seized and dirty. Not sure if this is a sign something is wrong. I’m still getting coolant loss, particularly when I ride her hard. Mechanic found nothing after pressure test, and I did a block test and got a negative result for gasket failure. I suspect the heater core needs to be removed. I also recently replaced the transmission fluid and filter and reset the TCM/TCU — doing that on your back is a bar-steward lol. keep me up to speed on everything, please, Dave. I’m interested to know how everything goes, and would like to help, if I can. All the breast Marty 😉

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On mine the volume and other wheel works as does the source button but the voice button acts as a mute button. I was told , If you have the blue tooth module It works and if you don't then the buttons do sod all.

Thanks Marty Can I Ask, When you blanked the Egr, did you use full blank or one with hole in it?, did you get any Eml light?, Mines a 2 litre and I've had different reports, I am planning a remap and they will delete the Egr from Ecu. I've always blanked my egr's in the past but they have been older cars and trucks.

Hi, jag lovers, I joined this club as cannot find clear answers elsewhere which included speaking to my local garage and Jaguar Land Rover in Stockport and searching youtube and the internet. I am helping my elderly friend get his X Reg (November 2000) back on the road after being idle for over 12 months. Just MOT'd in April 2024 but the battery was replaced (mystery drainage - kept going flat even though newish) and lost radio access,.. The owner had used up 9 attempts (no documents, relied on memory) and the 10th attempt failed using the code supplied by Jaguar. However, I may have input it wrongly, I have now got a code today from ebay (based on the radio/cassette serial number beginning PFY MOO followed by 4 numbers) for £2.95 and it differs from the Jaguar Land Rover supplied one (based on car reg only). The ebay seller told me that I have only 3 more attempts and the radio will be toast if code input wrongly on the 13th time. What I need is the correct process please for entering the code(s). The one from Jaguar is 3895 and the one from ebay is 9305. However, the original radio/cassette/CD player does not have the later display bells and whistles, and no A/MEM button; only push buttons numbered 1 to 6 (see pic below). So how do i enter a zero? On this forum there is a brief description but the pdf document attached in no longer downloadable. Can anyone help us, please, with tried and tested authentic information? Thanks. By the way the seller from ebay helped me unlock the radio - press button 6 and hold for 8 seconds (per Ford car radios, apparently.) I just need now to enter the code.

Thank for your input Jim, not sure about the grill but will check anyway, I have listened to all speakers today and have found that the crackling is only on the front door small top speaker and the tweeter on both doors, all other speakers ok, this is happening after about 5 mins just sat in the car without the engine running. Thanks again. Arnie.

Here is the front right; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Height-Sensor-C2C2242-Jaguar-Suspension/dp/B0CM4SXSR2

Good Afternoon, I have an '03 XJ8, I'm struggling to find a front air suspension senor so it's currently off the road. I've looked on Facebook groups with mo joy and my local specialist is swamped as always. Does anyone have an idea? Cheers

Could it possibly be something stuck in a vent of the cabin sensor? That's the little grille in the lower bolster of the dash, usually driver's side. N6 JMX

Thanks - we sent it a way for repair but no luck.

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Hi, Have now identified the problem. Disconnected the arm from the actuator and movement was very limited despite putting the car in garage for professional cleaning of turbo.!! Worked the arm backwards and fwds and managed to free it off,obviously there was still some crud in the turbo! Now working fine but need to clean turbo properly. Read on forum that someone injected Mr muscle into turbo and that did the trick. My only concern is that given the powerful effect of Mr muscle could it do any damage internally to the turbo. Any thoughts??