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	Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!2 points
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	2 points
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	Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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	2 points
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	You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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	Hi Graham, sounds like an unfortunate experience there, but hopefully you can get it all back and working again. For the roof, you need to test with a multi meter that voltages are getting to the correct place, i.e. the correct fuse - remember that a fuse can "look" fine but only a resistance test would confirm, - the switch in the roof, etc. Can you hear any relay clicks as the roof switch is operated? In normal circumstances, the operation of the roof would not be linked to the replacement engine, but with Jaguar you never can tell. For the fan 1, could it be as simple as a connector loose / not reseated correctly after the engine installation. The fan should generate a fault code (DTC) of some description which can be read with an OBD code reader, which in turn would help point you in the right direction. N6 JMX1 point
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	Thanks...have now fixed with another new battery & slightly bending contacts to align.1 point
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	Quick update: Cleaning the plug and socket didn't work, it looks like there is damage on the BCM board. Thankfully there is a Jag specialist with an electronics Wizz nearby so I'm going to whip the bcm out over the weekend and take it down there. They said it should be plug and play once they've re-pinned it but they want me to bring the car down after so they can re-pin the plug as well. I should know in about a week if it's worked or not. If not I'm guessing I'll have to fork out for a new bcm and programming from JLR main dealer. Alex1 point
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	Hi Alex, here is the electrical manual for your car that will help you narrow it down; http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech All2/2012 XF - X250Comp.pdf1 point
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	Use a piece of dental floss or thin fishing line, slide it behind and then using a to and fro motion slowly proceed from one end to the other. You will cut through the backing without damaging the paintwork. Then use a mild solvent to remove the excess on the panel. Make sure you mark where the badge sits first.1 point
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	Thanks a lot for the explanation. I did top up the refrigerant and do full service including pollen filter change at the local jaguar dealership. Still the issue persist. But I suppose its normal then. Thanks gain.1 point
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	Hi Alex I would expect you to be getting DTC codes if you are getting dashboard error messages It is possible you need Jag specific software. Have you checked the Fuel Pump Driver Module? Also I would re-check the need to recode a new fuel pump as Gemini (AI search) suggests it is needed. This might also help if you have not already found it. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Fuel System.pdf Good luck John1 point
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	Have a look here; https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/interior-rear-view-mirror-13104/jaguar/xk/xk-8-convertible-qdv1 point
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	Had a similar problem on a peugot 206cc turned out there was a bearing sitting on top of the strut that had cracked after the previous owner hit a pothole. Think from memory there is a rubber damper on the top of the strut on the jags also1 point
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	Hi Thomas, I am a believer in the fault likely arises from the last action you took - you removed the washer pump and put it back into place - therefore by my thinking you have likely disturbed some element of the power supply wiring, most likely the earth. But perhaps that's just me being optimistic. Don't spiral to conclusions until you can get a meter onto the pump terminals to confirm you have the correct voltages where they should be. N6 JMX1 point
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	Only the gasket rings (2) I think you can just about access them without removing manifold casting. When you have one actuator removed, test it with 12v to check it's function and don't get the loom connectors mixed up between the upper and lower actuator.1 point
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	I think on a 2001 XK the keyhole is on the lower right hand side of the bootlid, where the chrome badge is ?1 point
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	Hi Rebecca, assuming you can get into the car itself, open the bonnet. There you will find a suitable positive and negative post to allow you to fit a 12v power source, such as a battery charger or power pack. This will allow the whole car to power up and you will be able to pop open the boot, using the interior switch or boot lid button, to put the charger leads direct onto the battery. Do not try and start the car from a flat battery situation using the under bonnet posts. I don't believe the secret keyhole will work with a completely flat battery as it still relies on the electrical solenoid to energise the unlock circuit. N6 JMX1 point
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	The Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust may be able to fill in some background for the car. An email to them with as much information as possible may bear some more details.1 point
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	Hi Philip, the onset of the GDPR legislation means it is very difficult to obtain historic information of a personal nature. The registration number of AGG 7 is most likely a personal / cherished plate as date related plates were already in use by DVLA at that time. The number assigned in 1999 is most likely its original assigned number that was never issued on a plate as the personal plate was retrieved from the car. Have you tried looking up the MoT history at DVLA? This may provide some clues as to where the car was located during its lifetime - try searching using both numbers. N6 JMX1 point
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	Hi Kevin, it would be helpful if you gave a bit more information about the diff issue to allow folks to assess what type of service / assistance you might need. From memory, there was an episode of "Salvage Hunters Classic Cars" with Paul Cowland taking a differential to a specialist who worked from his garden shed in the Northeast of England. This guy completely rebuilt the diff - is that the level of service you are seeking? N6 JMX1 point
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	Are these what you are after? https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|100:259| Good luck John1 point
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	Hi Andy , well chuffed you finally got your jag back on the road , They can be a nightmare at times REGARDS Dave 621 point
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	1 point
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	Hi Andy, welcome to the Forum and great job doing all that commissioning work yourself. N6 JMX1 point
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	1 point
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	Well I checked the boot (both sides and spare wheel well) and absolutely no damp or water ingress at all, see pics below. I understand there are 3 modules for the parking aid system (rear sensors module, front sensors module and master) but I could not see any of them in the boot area, any one any idea where they are? Many thanks.1 point
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	Thanks to you both for your opinions, much appreciated. May not have one fitted after all.1 point
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	Hi Daniel, I think you are confused. The original post above refers to shockers for the XFS model, whilst you need to look at the shockers for the X-type model. A quick check on the Jaguar Classic Parts website indicates that the shocks for the X-type are around £150 per corner, which doesn't sound too bad. The shocks are obviously model specific, but also vary by the VIN, so you need to make checks to ensure you get the correct parts for your car. Check out at the link below - once you have the part numbers, you can search for suitable alternatives from other sources. X-type 2001 - 2010 (x400) Classic / Road Spring And Damper-rear | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts N6 JMX1 point
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	Hi Robert, you should also look into the legality of adding a Leaper to the front of your XJS as, since it wasn't an original factory fit, it may well be considered a pedestrian injury hazard. I believe there are ways to "mitigate" such hazard, but it involves cutting a major hole in the bonnet and having the Leaper spring loaded so as to disappear inside the bonnet in the event of an interaction with a pedestrian. Like Dave above says, it will not be to everyone's taste and folks tend to look for originality. N6 JMX1 point
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	1 point
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	Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!1 point
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	............ and here we see the 3.0 Jaguar in its natural habitat, a fillng station! 🤣 Joking aside, i have an S Type 3.0 and i easily get at least 28mpg from it without trying - the big enemy of good mpg is pootling about at 30mph up and down the gears. Long straight roads, constant speed above 50mph and it gets good figures. Welcome aboard Daniel, as mentioned above, check for rust on the sills and where they meet the rear wheel arches.1 point
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	Hello folks I'm in a similar dillema moving from a convertible Volvo C 70 with its folding metal roof and great capacity to an F type fixed head coupe which does at least allow golf club storage. I would have loved the convertible version but with no storage on board, maybe i should keep the Volvo for summer holidays. By the way do our F type owners think that the glass sun roof is an asset. (No wonder Im calling myself Frazzle) ,1 point
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	I would agree with your logic, i'm not wildly familiar with the XF but would imagine it's electrical architecture to be similar to the S Type. There is a general module that's in the boot on the S Type (which could be a clue) and i'm not sure what other modules might be involved. I'd suggest checking in the boot, see if you can find any signs of water ingress/dampness, also check your sunroof drain holes/hoses in cae one or both is leaking water into the boot and causing your problem. As for hearing ultrasonic sensors, the clue is in the name - ultrasonic. They tend to operate in the 22-40KHz range, most humans can only hear up to ~18kHz so if someone says they can hear it, check them for bat DNA or assume they're mistaken or very lucky. Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.1 point
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	Hi , The supplier is an acquaintance of mine who has an extensive history with Jaguar Land rover, he is UK based. He sells these touch screens. I will contact him and ask him if he is OK with me passing his contact details on this forum. I do not think he will object but as a matter of courtesy I think it's only correct.1 point
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	I would look into having them remanufactured by a hydraulic fitters company. If you sent the eBay lot to them they could work them over. Since you now have a spare set you should look into it.1 point
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	1 point
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	OK, hopefully I am not breaking any rules here (I know the UK government doesn't allow free speech 🙂 ) I am doing various jobs on my newly acquired S Type R and post on my channel JAGVETTE1 please check it out and if you like it please subscribe I do it for fun not profit, I make mistakes and I show them, I am a mechanic with more years of experience than I care to remember, BUT I know you are NEVER too old to learn. Thanks in advance Gary1 point
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	The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.1 point
 

                    