Martin B

I started to get judder from my front brakes too, replaced the pads they were Pagid and half worn, put new set of Mintex in and no more judder. Mine also passed the MOT with the judder.

Probably the actuator, they seem to lose the power in the little electric motors that move the mechanism. Do you have the keyless entry type? Try clicking the fob button to lock the doors and then look at the door release lever locking lever on the inside of the rear n/s door to see if it has gone all the way in as it should when locking, if it is not going fully in I suspect the actuator to be failing. When mine started to fail it would not lock the door but could lock manually, when unlocking it worked fine for a while then started to fail doing that too. It might be worth checking the o/s door as well as both of mine failed quite close together. Hope this helps. Regards Martin.

Hi all. I have had the issue with the rear doors failing to lock/unlock, I have the keyless entry type of door locks. First noticed on the nearside rear when I gave a friend a lift and, the door had to be unlocked manually, as the little lever did not active from the central locking system. Shortly after that I started to notice the offside rear door not locking and unlocking intermittently, and after a while could only be locked from the inside pushing the little lever in. I found online some replacement actuators after doing some checking to find out what the problem could be. Here is a link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232792541799 ,I ordered a left and a right side total charge £124.16 with postage. I fitted them myself, the first one was a little tricky trying to work out what to do, the keyless entry electric connection stumped me for about 10 mins till I sussed out the workings of it, there is not a lot of room to view things and my failing close up eyesight is a pain in the rear end. The second one was a doddle now I knew how it all went together, I did not have to remove the windows, though if I remember correctly I undid the bolts that secured the window motor to the mount and this gave enough room to get the door lock assembly out. It took probably an hour each side not rushing at all. The new ones have been in and working with no issues since October 2019. I took the old ones apart to be nosey and saw there are 2 small electric motors that operate the mechanisms. I had a look on Ali express and found replacement motors the code numbers are FC280 and FC130 there is 1 of each in the actuator, I bought 2 of each for less than £20 with postage, and have rebuilt the original door actuators ready for if/when they fail again. Taking the actuators apart is fairly easy I guess, the motors are a push connection no soldering or anything like that, just take note of where everything goes and should be an easy fix. I did a simple test on the old motors, just ran a 12v battery supply through them, 1 motor did not spin at all, 2 motors turned but not very well and, the last motor span fast and freely, so I think that confirmed the 3 motors had gone past their best. Hope this helps regards Martin.

Hi guys, my first post here. I have the XF 3.0d S 2009 model just over 86k miles, I have just had new cam belt and fuel pump belt fitted. I was worried as the car is 10 years old now so, made enquires with Jag for pricing, they quoted for the :- cam belt £758.27 + the vat that is £516 labour and about £242 for parts + vat v belt £182.42 + the vat that is £142 labour and £42.52 for parts + vat Just as I was getting ready to book in to have the work done I got the dreaded restricted performance message, I think the code was P006A. It turned out to be the rocker/inlet covers yes both of them had cracked and leaking, so in touch with Jag again for prices got quoted :- Both cover and parts fitted £2220.96 + vat that is £1354.50 labour + vat and for parts £866.46 + vat So a grand total for everything done at main dealer £3793.98. I found a local indie Jag specialist near Ringwood called Hollygrove independent Jaguar with an excellent write up so got them to quote me, so for everything needed to do the 2 rocker/inlet covers the v belt and the cam belt all genuine Jag parts £2024.01 that is £695.61 + vat for all the parts and £1000 for the labour + vat. I believe it took 14 or 15 hours work to complete and the cam covers are bugger to do. Needless to say I had the work done at the Indie garage and now my Jag is fabulous again. By the way the cam belt that came off my car looked in good condition its a big long heavy duty belt that's for sure. The indie also supplied a free courtesy s type Jag and washed my car for me very impressed with them.

Thank you Akaz for spending the time to write out the informative information, it is most helpful. I will look into it and let you know how it goes. Also thank you Kie. I will have a look and see where mine is set. Regards Martin.

Thanks for the reply Jon. The misting starts on wet days and does not clear, can not say my air con is blowing as cold as Siberia, more like a chilly day in Bournemouth. My concern is I have given £96 to a garage I trust to re gas and test my system but, can not notice any improvement, we have not had any rain yet to try out the misting. Just wondering if there are any tests I can do to check for sure. Regards Martin.

Hi all. Jag XF 3.0D 2009 I have just had my air con re-gassed as I notices a couple of weeks ago the windscreen misting up, last time that happened 2 years ago, the air con had run low on gas so, the pump would not engage. The garage that has just re gassed my air con said that it required 350g of gas and is now working fine, no leaks detected but, I have not noticed any difference when set down to 16c, I think it blew much cooler a year ago when we had some warm weather. I don't think I can hear the clonk of the pump engaging when turning on the air con and the revs do not dip, but I can not remember if this happens on the Jag as I always have the air con on. Could anyone advise on how to check for sure if the pump is working and if not where to start looking for problems? Thanks in advance for any help Regards Martin

Hi thanks for the answer. I managed to find a guy that could measure the thread of the bolts and have found they are M7 with 1mm pitch. I purchased a suitable tap and have now refitted the bolts so the wheels look good as new again.

Hi all. I have a set of 20" Senta alloys on my 2009 XF s , I decided they needed refurbishment as they looked a bit tatty. I removed the fake split rim bolts so I could polish them up while the rims got the beauty treatment, I got the rims back lovely they look now and, proceeded to refit the bolts but, it would seem even though the holes had something put in them when being painted, paint has still got into the thread, easy I thought just run a tap down the thread, now the problem shows its face. I have measured the thread on the bolt, it looks to be around 7mm but could also be 1/4 inch or whatever the next size up is. Question is does anybody know the size of the threads for the fake rim bolts? I have spent hours googling the internet for info but nothing. Please help so I can get this sorted many thanks in advance Martin.