Big John

....Just make sure it is an AGM or it will almost certainly fail before you expect....

One here: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts.html/x-type-diesel-2005-2010-2-2d-automatic-drive-shaft-front-right.html ...or maybe here... https://www.rexbo.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft/jaguar-x-type-estate/31069-2-2-d Good luck John

Hi Tim This might help: https://autotechnician.co.uk/brake-servo-fault-finding-guide/ Good luck John

Hi Tim Found this on the jaguarforum.com site: "There is a common fault with the X Type that follows a brake bleed using the manual pedal pumping method. When the brake pedal goes to the floor during a pedal pump bleed, damage to the brake booster (servo) normally results. I personally suffered this following a full service at a garage that I had requested a complete brake fluid change be included. I specifically told them about the manual bleed problem and asked if they had a pressure bleeder. Although they did, the boss forgot to tell the mechanic and he manually bled them and detroyed the servo. One of the members here posted that adjustment to the push-rod between servo and master cylinder is possible and successfully cured his fault by winding in the push-rod to give some slack. Other members report putting a block of wood under the pedal to restrict pedal travel when pedal pump bleeding method is used. "Never allow the pedal to go all the way down." Symptoms include solidly locked on brakes and brakes that slowly begin to bind as you drive before locking up completely (like mine)." Not sure how that would damage the servo though....... Have you tried turning each road wheel when the brakes are locked on to see if it is all 4 or just one, or one circuit which is at fault? Good luck John

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Not sure but this might help:

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Hi Jon If turning the key results in nothing, a click or a start that sounds like the problem is the starter. I assume that you are not getting the engine to even turn over when it "fails to start". If the starter is actually turning the engine over at normal speed (every time you attempt to start) then you can rule it out as the problem. If not that is where I'd start. I would try to check the voltage reaching the starter when you turn the key either with a voltmeter or a test bulb. Regards John

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Jana It should simply slide back on. Open the fuel doorand then the cover should slide on. This is from an XF but I think the mechanism is the same. Good luck John

Hi Paul This might help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2006on.pdf John

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

Hi Lyn Common problem caused by dry contacts in the switch. Mine did it much more frequently in warm weather 🙂 Good video here shows how to sort it. regards John

...If the temperature outside is below 4C then it is simply working as it should. It is to warn you of possible icy conditions when driving, if warmer, then the outside temperature sensor is probably faulty, or there is a poor connection to it. My previous XF would intermittently show a temperature 11C below the real temp before the sensor was replaced. Not a big deal except Air Con also used that sensor to control the internal climate 🙂