Big John

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Not sure but this might help:

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Hi Jon If turning the key results in nothing, a click or a start that sounds like the problem is the starter. I assume that you are not getting the engine to even turn over when it "fails to start". If the starter is actually turning the engine over at normal speed (every time you attempt to start) then you can rule it out as the problem. If not that is where I'd start. I would try to check the voltage reaching the starter when you turn the key either with a voltmeter or a test bulb. Regards John

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Jana It should simply slide back on. Open the fuel doorand then the cover should slide on. This is from an XF but I think the mechanism is the same. Good luck John

Hi Paul This might help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2006on.pdf John

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

Hi Lyn Common problem caused by dry contacts in the switch. Mine did it much more frequently in warm weather 🙂 Good video here shows how to sort it. regards John

...If the temperature outside is below 4C then it is simply working as it should. It is to warn you of possible icy conditions when driving, if warmer, then the outside temperature sensor is probably faulty, or there is a poor connection to it. My previous XF would intermittently show a temperature 11C below the real temp before the sensor was replaced. Not a big deal except Air Con also used that sensor to control the internal climate 🙂

....So not DPF 🙂 I would still advise looking at the codes as that should help you identify the problem. I assume there is no associated text shown in the info screen when the lights come on.... Regards John

Hi Kevin Your profile does not specify your fuel type but if it is diesel I think you may be looking at DPF full warning lights. If it is diesel it may be worth taking it for a run at 60mph for 30 minutes which should allow the dpf to regenerate but really I would advise getting the DTC codes read (really easy to do with a cheap reader from amazon, or any garage should be able to do it for you for less than £50. Regards John

Hi Kevin Can you post a photo, or at least give us a description, of the symbols that are showing amber and red? Regards John

Hi Matt Hard to see the details on the photos but the battery could well be the cause, although it looks like you now have several of the computer modules sulking and not talking to each other. This can happen if the battery voltage gets low and corrupts the software. My sportbrake had problems in lockdown when I left it for a month, battery went flat, jump started OK, but rear doors and windows were now permenantly locked 😞 I think the car "stores" 3 copies of the entire software in various modules and it is possible (if you know what you are doing and have the correct diagnostics) to repair the corrupted software with a "clean" copy. Apparently there is a place in Milton Keynes called E & E who are really good at clearing the codes and sorting the module issues. Obviously a long way from you, but might be worth a call. Otherwise I suggest a specialist with the Autologic diagnostics as they seem to get the best results. From previous threads on here if you go to Jaguar they just advise changing each "faulty" module with a VERY large invoice at the end. Good luck John