Jimbov8

12 minutes ago, Landyguy said:

What about on a 2008 4.2 convertible 

The same applies, if you do not have the BMS fitted at the negative terminal, as you don’t,  then direct to the battery terminals is ok.

That has been butchered. The only way around that is to remove it and have it professionally milled.

1 hour ago, Carl Gibbs said:

Thanks Jim. Im tempted to rock up at his front door with a grand in cash and see what he says..... Will keep you updated.

It costs nothing to try, look forward to hearing how you get on.🙂

A quick look at the classifieds will give you an idea of how much these cars fetch, in running order. However, 4 new tyres, brakes, possible suspension parts, not to mention engine recommissioning and the inevitable rust.

Based on this and why it was laid up in the first place, I wouldn’t go above 2k. As you say, you won’t know unless you ask.

You will need the 19” black space saver, this is to ensure it clears the larger brake callipers on the xkr’s. As to getting one, good luck as I’m still looking.

Personally, I would remove the seat base first then remove the door card and then operate the lock manually to open the door.

Fingers crossed for you. I would keep the new sensors for a week at least just in case, until you have a bit more confidence in the car.

Thanks for the update.

Charge your battery and then check again. These cars do not function well with a less than fully charged battery. Always the first thing to check especially when they disappear upon a restart.

10 minutes ago, SteveY said:

Thanks ... very helpful. Will give me a place to look.

Let’s us know how you get on.👍

This may help,

https://www.jaguarwhiteplains.com/service/obd-ii-trouble-codes.htm

If you don’t already have it, here is the electrical manual for your car.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFElectrical/2009 MY XF Electrical Guide.pdf

1 hour ago, grey jag said:

don't be over charged my local jaguar specialist quoted 350 the usual spin about modules took it to mum at  Coalville 10 minutes done £60

Your “mum” must be a really good jag mechanic.🤣

Have a look here,

https://www.talkford.com/threads/03-tdci-130-crankshaft-sensor-2-or-3-pin.217320/#post-2009585

50 minutes ago, Jon Hyde said:

Phew!

All sorted with a new alternator.

Thanks to all for the suggestions and support, after all though, it's just a car. But it's a car I really really like.

However, do I keep it or get a newer version?

Opinions solicited!

J

Great news and thanks for the update.👍

15 minutes ago, Mark Nicholson said:

Reporting back on this, now I’ve had it fixed. It was the driver’s door locking unit, which is complete unit to swap out. It also controls the wing mirrors, which didn’t previously retract. I’m pleased to report that the independent specialist (more like total Jag enthusiast) charged £289, nowhere near the feared £500.

Excellent news and thanks for the update.👍

There is a known issue with water from the windscreen washer pump wicking into the electrics, specifically causing corrosion in the Central Junction Box/fuse panel in the drivers footwell, which can result in all kinds of electrical issues. There is an updated washer pump and wiring as a fix but it is not a cheap job so worth checking for signs of water ingress and corrosion in the said panel. There is plenty of info about this if you do a Google search.

Worth a look.

Either your battery is completely flat or your alternator has gone south either way, some voltage checks would prove useful.

8 hours ago, Wrinkly said:

Rob I am not 100% certain but I do believe it is only the MXS 7.0 that can be used for this purpose. CTEX refer to it as  "Supply", which is a mode you manually select. Good luck and hope you get your battery successfully changed.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

Not quite, the 10 has the same supply function.

51 minutes ago, Stan Del Carlo said:

This is a 2000 XJS

I doubt that very much.

51 minutes ago, Stan Del Carlo said:

Would removing the air filter box and spraying starter fluid though the throttle body be a good place to start

No. Replace the battery with a new, fully charged one and then get yourself a battery maintainer and keep it hooked up when not in use.

I did think initially, from your description, that it sounded like the alternator as it happened to me a few years ago. Good news is, it will be sorted at the dealership and you won’t have to worry about resetting anything as they should do it all for you.

1 hour ago, Jon Hyde said:

One problem remains (once the new battery is fitted) - I don't have the code for the radio!

You don’t need one Jon. Replace battery, reset park brake, windows and reset BMS and away you go. Or, hook up a temporary supply under the bonnet, change the battery and you shouldn’t lose anything.

35 minutes ago, Tomato said:

Probably would try myself for that cost 😕 

Bit fiddly but an hour of taking your time should see it done and working for just the price of the part.

40 minutes ago, Jon Hyde said:

Seems it was a dead short in the battery, which was almost melting in the boot! New battery coming tomorrow morning.

That’s a relief and much cheaper than a new alternator.

That sounds more like the alternator giving up. 

Door locks are plug and play so that price will be more to do with labour and the cost of a new part.