Jimbov8

Excellent news and thanks for the update.👍

40 minutes ago, lesxk8 said:

I have carried out the incline bleed technique and it certainly has made a difference. The heater now only runs cold when the revs are below 1000rpm. This will do for the time until we get out of winter and i can find where the auxiliary pump is hiding.

An improvement sounds good though I would say you still have some air in the system. If you can live with it then fair enough, but do keep an eye on the temperature gauge if you go on any longer runs.

4 hours ago, Carl Gibbs said:

I got an online deal at the motor museum that, if I purchased a ticket for this date, then the ticket would automatically become an annual pass. 

That is standard.😊

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.

You can also try these guys,

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/classic-jaguar-parts/

Park the car so it is pointing slightly uphill. Take the cap off the reservoir and then allow the car to run up to temp at idle. When the stat opens the coolant will flow around the system and the car will burp itself at the reservoir.

1 hour ago, CatFace said:

I guess it all boils down to how deep you want to go in diagnosing any codes that may be present onthe car).

Exactly this.

The 2nd or 3rd version will be ideal for your car. Do ensure that you get one from a reputable source such as Diagnostic World.

1 minute ago, Craighudson1 said:

Thank you, I will try this tomorrow,much appreciated

No probs. Please keep us updated on your progress.

42 minutes ago, Craighudson1 said:

Yes, it’s got the bms reset ability

In that case the fusible link may have blown. If you look on the positive terminal you should find a single wire attached. This is the positive supply to the BMS module which is attached to the negative terminal. 

The fusible wire is covered with a black sheath at the positive terminal and is about 3 inches long. A continuity test will prove whether it is intact or not.

If it has blown then replace it.

You may have cleared the codes but did you reset the BMS system. Does your code reader have that ability?

If everything is working correctly then you should hear one beep on double locking the car. You should then be able to place the fob at least 1 meter away from the car and not be able to open it.

17 minutes ago, Steven Mills said:

Thanks Jimbov8 turns out worse oil pump failed bottom end gone so see what options I have 

Certainly not good news but thanks for the update. Hope to hear you get a positive outcome.

Here is the electrical manual for your car,

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/JaguarXType/2007XTypeElectrical.pdf

1 hour ago, David McG said:

Thanks, will try those but the casing is dead anyway, falling apart. Thanks , 

You can get new casings on eBay quite cheaply.

Have you replaced the batteries with quality Duracell types? Also give the internal circuit board a clean with an electrical cleaner.

4 hours ago, Jam106 said:

I bought a xf 3.0d premium luxury 2013 model just before Xmas with a not a great service history but seems to be running fine my query is do I put it on a diagnostic machine to see if the engine is ok or leave it 

If you have no warnings on the dash and the car is running correctly then putting it on a diagnostic machine is pointless. Simply maintain the car correctly and enjoy.

Excellent news and thanks for the update.🤙

You won’t be disappointed.😊

You need the icarsoft LR2 at least, purely as you have the BMS on the battery. They are fabulous bits of kit though if you do get one, get it from a reputable dealer like diagnostic world.

37 minutes ago, Aubrey said:

Hi joe,

I follow the Breakfast Club on Face Book, I am going to go to one of the meets as soon as I can.

Yes the Enthusiasts do seem to have some good events, I am going to make an effort this year and attend some🙂

Just a few jobs to do on the Xj first.

 

The “breakfast club” meet is usually a very well attended though fairly low key affair. Even if you only go once, it’s worth it.😊

You’re very welcome, hope it works for you.😊

As far as I know, if the phone is original to the car then you only need insert a SIM card and it should be operational.

Have a look in the vehicles security settings via the infotainment screen, it should tell you why the alarm is going off. Maybe a door lock microswitch is slow to react, a code reader will also help.

Front or back ?

A code reader will tell you which is defective.

Here is the electrical manual for your car,

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/x2001999.25en.pdf