Jimbov8

Definitely missing Joe.

Running the heater on high to keep the temperature down would suggest air in the system. Try “burping” the system to ensure all air has been expelled.

Fuse F9 15A, also check relay R5 in the same box.

Looks like a 140 to me.🤔

Stewart, if you had no air in the system the car would be sitting extremely low. A common failure is the compressor for which there are rebuild kits. Before you buy anything I would suggest you have the codes read to see if it points to anything specific.

Great news Jim, another reason not to go to Halfords.

Hi Jim,

There is no fuses for the indicators, the switch stalk sends the input signal to the General Electric Module, the output of which goes directly to the indicators.

For main beam check fuses F1 10A and F4 10A both in the front distribution fuse box. These fuses are supplied by relay R1, in the same box.

It is possible, damage may have occurred to the GEM.

This link will give you the electrical manual for your car. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XTypeElectrical/2008 MY X-TYPE Electrical Guide.pdf

Might be a good idea to post some pictures with a price you have in mind.

Update to above.

55 XK8 width is 2015mm mirror to mirror unfolded.

1912mm from mirror to mirror folded,

2070mm mirror to mirror unfolded.

Although not the same year, this video may give you a clue.

Just take the wheel off Terry, much better access, you’ll see everything you need to and you won’t need to get on your back.😉

Hi Terry, the icarsoft LR II is what you need but make sure you get it from a reputable company. It will certainly tell you what’s wrong and where the problem is.

I feel your problem will either be the ring or the sensor and hopefully not the wiring.

15 minutes ago, Trooper2142 said:

An alternative would be a bed off nails lying on the driver's seat or a boxing glove that hits you when the door is opened.Lol

 

Not a bad idea Tom.🤣

It’s a bit daft Tom, if people can forget they have it connected then they surely can push blutac into the barrel by forgetting its there. If people are that mentally deficient then hang a warning triangle on the steering wheel, that’s if they can remember to do that.

If there is no fault then it should clear after 3 drive cycles, try one more Terry.

If it still doesn’t clear then the next thing is to look at reluctor rings on the rear wheels. If you don’t know, it’s a segmented ring around the hub, the sensor sits above it.

These rings become corroded over time and bulge. This then scrubs the face of the sensor and it then goes defective.

It just pops open then you have to lift it the rest of the way.😊

You have no problem there Rob. Just close the boot and lock the car, the CTEK will take care of itself.

The stop/start system has many things that effect its operation, temperature, electrical load and of course, battery condition. First place to look will always be the state of charge within the battery.

Hi Terry, you don’t need to take the battery out to charge it though circumstances may dictate that you do. As long as you have the radio code and you disconnect the negative first, there is nothing else to watch for.

Hi jack, have a look in the spare wheel well in the boot. There should be a foam carrier on the left side which should have the lock nut adapter in it.

In that case Terry, put the battery on charge until at least tomorrow lunchtime. When you take it off the charger leave it for an hour and then take another voltage reading. If it is then less than 12.8v I would recommend a new battery.

If you do have to buy a new battery then be aware, they rarely come fully charged, so you will probably have to charge the new one also.

Does this help Tony.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x16-JAGUAR-Mk2-FRONT-or-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-BOLTS-SCREWS-FITTING-KIT/192309776102?hash=item2cc68e4ee6:g:oB8AAOSwcUBYOCOo

No probs Chris.

2 possibles, door lock microswitch playing up and a possible wiring problem in the loom between the door and the body.