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On 8/13/2021 at 7:17 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

You could use the CTEK, put the charger indoors and use a extension lead for the ctek 12v to reach the car

then you could either mount a plug in the boot, so you just open the boot and plug it in and then shut the boot at lock it, the lead would be protected if fused if there was a problem, problem with this is some times you forget and just drive off and damage the lead, a friend of mine uses a ball of bluetak, places the ball over the ignition lock, which remind him if he gets in with out unplugging the charger that its still on charge

or you could just mount the convenience just below your bumper, so you can plug it in easy without opening the boot and would just pull apart if you forgot

extending the 12v lead lead would not be effected by any weather no matter how wet it got

Joe

I feel certain you would be the person to give me an answer on this question.

Found a slit rubber bung in the very lower part of the boot area, which looks obviously for passing a cable through. Would the item on the under placed link be safe if used for an entry into the boot area, if used with the caps that they can supply for each end of the unit when they are parted. I had in mind running a 240v cable to the car with one part of this unit attached to it. The other part of the unit would be attached to a 240v cable after it had been passed through the rubber bung. The other end of this cable would then have a 13 amp socket attached to it. This 13 amp could then be used to connect the CTEK 7.0. When not in use the cable in the boot could be pulled gently up to the outside of the boot  and secured so as the unit did not dangle onto the ground under the car as it travelled.

The other query is : on the write up for this unit "PE" is mentioned. Is there any way of explaining simply to a non electrical brain what "PE" actual is/means ?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-circular-connectors/3594384/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Connectors_Whoop-_-Industrial+Circular+Connectors_Whoop-_-3594384&matchtype=&pla-346913906554&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JOyzdS18gIVhuvtCh0q7g9dEAQYBSABEgK_UvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Many thanks again.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

26 minutes ago, Aubrey said:

Hi John

found F32? as well check out video.

As far as I know - I am not an expert-

To use the cigarette lighter in any car even older cars you have had to turn the key to the accessory position for it to be able to work. They have never had constant power to them even when turned off because doing so causes unnecessary drain on the battery when accessories are not being used

Would only be on if hardwired to battery

If not fuse / relay  assume it would be wiring fault? or unit  itself?

Best Regards,

Julie.

 

 

Julie

Many thanks. I will check that actual fuse tomorrow as it appears to be only feeding the console connection.

Regards, John

Have now found a fuse box layout diagram and it appears the console 12v is on the same fuse as the handbrake on illumination light and is 10 amp fuse.

My Handbrake illumination light (Red on the dashboard clocks) is working. I am therefore (rightly or wrongly) assuming that the fuse is in good condition. This does again pose the question why does this connection in the console not work. I have plugged a tyre inflator in there and it does not work, where as it does work in the cigarette light but only with ignition on.🤔😕

1 hour ago, Aubrey said:

Hi 

I believe the one in dash is lighter

one in console between seats is Aux 12v socket.- might be a fuse that's why its not working.

Best Regards,

Julie

 

Julie

Many thanks.

The one in the dash is definitely a lighter, as it has the lighter in it. It only appears to work with ignition on. I am wondering if there is actually anyway it can be made to work without the ignition turned on.

Is the 12v in the console likely to work with out ignition on and can it, if it does, be used to power a OTEK 5.0 charger/conditioner. I will have to attempt to fine out where the fuse for this 12v console connection is located.

Many thanks and Regards, John

My S Type appears to have two Cigarette Lighter Connections:

1/ In the ash tray (never used thankfully) this will work if the ignition is turned on but is not live with the ignition off.

2/ In the storage box between the two front seats this one does not appear to work at all when anything is plugged into it, neither with ignition on or ignition off.

Why does No 2 not work at all and can I somehow have either of them working with the the ignition turned fully off and the car locked.

I ask this mainly because I want to use an OTEK 5.0, which Otek`s website states can be powered from a cigarette lighter connection as long as the connection stays live when the ignition is turned off. This would resolve the problem I am having with not wanting a mains connection into the boot, from the house, whilst the car is locked overnight on the drive because of not having a garage.

Have been dissuaded by this Forum not to use the Solar Panel chargers which will connect via EOBD connector which works with ignition off and car locked.

Many thanks for your time and any possible answers or advice.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

16 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

just use a good quality paint lacquer, couple of coats will do the trick

 

video of restoring the headlight 3m kit.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENOvtTqny1A

 

Joe

Many thanks for the advice.

Regards, John

8 hours ago, Leo said:

I would definitely go for the mxs5.0, and maybe get the AA Solar Panel Charger for times when I had no mains power.

I know that I can trust the CTEK every time (I have had mine for six years, and used it almost weekly including for several three month absences in New Zealand), and could never trust a solar panel in that way.

Also, I keep my car garaged, so the solar panel wouldn’t work.

Leo

Many thanks for your prompt reply.

One of your comments is my reason for thinking towards Solar Powered. I unfortunately do not have a garage for the car. I would therefore have to have a live mains feed running to the car from the house whilst it is stood outside. Security is crossing my mind as well because I cannot think how to have access to the boot whilst it is locked.

Many thanks and Regards

John

48 minutes ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

The ctek is a smart charger so will turn off when the battery is fully charged, so wont over charge the battery

the solar charger will charge the battery continuous, whether its fully charged or not, also if I remember right, they only 2.4 watt, so best case its only 0.2 amps, thats 200 mA, so its not going to charge the best really, thats will full sun, when we get it.

to go with a solar one you really need a much bigger one really at least 10 watts, the 2.5 watt is not very good

cheers

Joe

Joe 

Many thanks for your comments on chargers. The main problem is that my car is not garaged because I do not have a garage and therefore a mains supply charger would have a power source from the house, which plainly would mean the cable would be outside. The cable would connection to the battery needing access to the boot, which troubles me little bit as it would mean gaining entry to a closed and locked boot to access the battery itself, with car outside overnight. 

I am now of the opinion that I should not buy the Solar powered version because a continuous charge to the battery could be equally as damaging as a battery running out of charge. Which only leaves me the option of a mains powered smart charger, the CTEK.

A dilemma I am not certain of an answer to at this very moment, but there has just got to be an answer to the problem because I do not want to experience problems with a flat or running low on charge battery.

Much appreciated information. Regards, John

39 minutes ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

there factory lacquered, its the lacquer that come off and leave them dull

get a 3m head light restorer kit there just over 20 quid and will make them look brand new, some people reseal them after

cheers

Joe 

Joe

Thanks for the information and advice.

Just out of interest, when you comment that some people reseal the lights after treatment.

Any idea what they use to reseal them?

Regards, John

I understand that S Types suffer with deposits forming on headlamp lenses.

Some years back when I had Nissan Skyline they suffered the same problem and were very difficult to clean/refurbish. I do remember buying a cream type liquid  which was sold on recommendations as it was used by USA Air Force and NASA. It worked very well. However I cannot remember the name of the product or trace any information on it.

My recently acquire 2.5 V6 Sport is suffering the same problem. I have tried various products the likes of Peeks Silver cleaner which I read had been successful in removing the deposit, but it would not touch mine. Same applies to other things I had read like WD40, Brasso but non of these worked either.

Is there anyone on this Forum that may know the USA product that I referred to or who can give advice on what will remove this deposit. It seems to only affect the upper part of the headlamp lens, which I find unusual as my Skyline used to get the deposit across the whole lens.

Many thanks for taking the time to read this request for advice and looking forward to the information and or suggestions that I am sure will be provided.

Regards, John

3 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

Any really mxs 5.0 is most common

I have the genuine jaguar one which is only a 3.3 amp, which does the job perfect

theres no benefit to getting anything bigger, wont charger the battery any better or faster, as its a smart charger and does it in processes, then when complete it turns off and stay in standby sort off, when the battery voltage drops it starts charging and goes through the same process again, this is why these can be left on long term and wont over charge or boil the battery dry, like cheaper ones

you can also get convenience kits that you fit. mine has a small socket in the boot, you just open the boot and plug it in and its maintaining, no need to lift carpet ot get to the battery

also if you fit anything connected to the battery, like one of the sockets or quick connect kits, make sure its a fused type as close to the battery as possible, some kits are not fused, and if you trap the cable by accident, it will just melt all the cables or possibly start a fire.

cheers

Joe

Joe

Thanks very much for this information, especially the item regarding fitting a fuse.

I am also contemplating  buying the AA Solar Panel Charger. As it is able to plug straight into the OBD socket and will apparently produce an adequate charge even on dull winter days I feel this might be more useful for me. I sometimes stay away from home where I may not necessarily have access to mains power. Do you think  the mxs 5 has any advantage over the AA Solar charger.

Regards, John

12 hours ago, Aubrey said:

Hi John,

found the AA video

 

Many thanks for the video.

That really answers the question. It does charge via the EOBD connection WITHOUT any direct crocodile clips to the battery. I feel this is probably a better bet for my requirements and am strongly favoured to go this route and purchase one of theses solar panel chargers.

Very appreciative of you posting this video for me.

1 hour ago, Aubrey said:

H John,

 have found these posts on the S type from may be helpful, My friend pad about £20 for code from dealer. 

Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT"

Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on.

Hope this helps and saves some one some money!!

This works on my 2003 x type

This definitely works in S-Types as well. It's included as part of the "Battery reset document" which is available for download from this forum

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• Quote

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery.

I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference.

It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code 

I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:-

 

Battery reset.pdf

Just realised I should have pressed the Quote, before replying.

Sorry about that.

Presumably my reply will be the message prior to this one.

Regards

Have seen your document and downloaded it ready to read at some stage.

Car had a new Varta Battery fitted before I picked it up so I am hoping it will keep going alright for a while

Meanwhile I am looking for a best deal on obtaining a CTEK charger and conditioner, as recommended on the website, also considering the AA Solar Panel charger which I am thinking might be of better use to me.

I am being told that no connection direct connection to the battery is needed as it all happens through the EBOD port. I do not understand if this is correct and would appreciate any advice on the question.

Many thanks indeed.

John

Being a new member I have been reading numerous posts.

I have recently acquired my 2005 S Type 2.5 V6 and have no idea what the radio code is.

I understand I will need this if the battery (which is a brand new Varta) fitted prior to collection, is disconnected for any reason.

How can I find the code for my Radio.

Many thanks and Regards

John

Please could I request based on experience with them.

Which CTEK charger is best buy for my 2005 model.

Many thanks and Regards

John

Good Afternoon To Everyone.

Have just registers as new member.

Have recently acquired a 2005 Jaguar S Type 2.5 Sport.

Platinum Metallic.

61,000 miles from new.

I am almost 72 years of age and always been a petrol head. Having owned such cars as Nissan 200SX (S12, S13 and S14). Nissan Skyline GTS. MG Midget, Honda Accord Gtr.

In my very early years 18/19 I had both an XK 120  and a Mk 2. Neither of which I cherished in any way at all but bought and sold them at good profits. That was the foolishness of youth and only wish I still owned them. 

Have recently lost my wife of 50 years and she never liked Jaguars, saying they were to pretentious. She passed away at home within 14 weeks of diagnosis and one of her last conversations was that I should acquire the S Type I had always yearned for. Since acquiring the car I have so far only clocked up 329 miles due to a period of not being too well myself.

Have already had to replace Ignition coils (6) and inlet manifold gaskets (done at same time. Now have yellow engine management light detection of showing again . Have done a diagnostic and it shows a detection of different readings on Catalytic Convertors. As the car was newly MOT`d at my request when I bought it and showed no sign of emission problems I will not be doing anything about it until it is needed.

Enough about me and problems, I look forward to future conversations with members.

Many thanks and Regards to everyone