LairdScooby

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Convicts

You may well find you need most of what's there, if the ECU is coded to the key you can hide the key behind the steering column cowl and it should bypass the immobiliser for you. Yours is a later one with electronic parking brake then? There must be some connection from that to the ECU so it releases when you apply throttle (i'm guessing it's auto?) so that you can drive off. I hope the garages diagnostic process is correct, at least you'll have a spare set of ECUs/modules etc if not.

Volvo (the Volvo logo is not only the modern symbol for "male" but also an older symbol for iron)

Excellent news - i wasn't sure on the matching numbers bit, on some Rover 800s they absolutely have to match, others can be "near enough" and as i pointed out, i'm not sure on Jag ECUs at the moment. Hopefully your new ECU will get you up and running again! 😉 😄

It sounds very much like the ECU is doing exactly what it's told to do - you need to investigate the sensors for the two sides (driver and passenger) and clean their housings as it's possible the drivers side is colder than it should be rather than the passengers side being warmer than it should be. Usually they are NTC thermistors so you could fudge the temperature with either a series resistor or a parallel resistor but i would suggest cleaning both sensors and their housigns first and then swap the sensors from one side to another to see if the fault moves.

Wrought

You can set both to Low and then just use the drivers control to control both sides at the same temperature, saves fiddling about with FETs etc.

They all left the factory without due to a change of law meaning we were no longer permitted to disembowel pedestrians with the leaper - this is why Rolls-Royce made the Spirit of Ecstasy autoatmically retract into the bonnet (hood) and why the leapers are now spring mounted, that's how it was got round. Prices vary according to country and supplier as can be seen above.

There should be a permanent +12V feed to both halves of the DCCV, the AC control Module takes the output low (and cycles it using PWM) to close the valve(s) and the module output is connected to the other side from the +12V feed - in other words when the valve is powered, it closes. Had a similar problem on mine when i bought it, turned out to be a fusebox problem..........

Routine

According to the link i posted above Frank, a new genuine Jaguar leaper for the S Type is ~125 Euros or ~£108 give or take for the exchange rate. They also do an aftermarket new one for 29 Euros so ~£25. Haven't found a UK supplier yet but i looked on adamesh.co.uk and they only list an Arden leaper for £499! 😮 Daresay you can find used ones on fleabay for as you suggest, £40-50 in excellent condition.

Computer

It could be sudden catastrophic failure on the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) which i had on my S Type about 9 months ago. They're only about £15-20 on ebay so almost worth throwing one at it to see if it cures it.

I'm not sure on Jaguar ECUs but i know Rover 800 ECUs the last two digits denoted a build code/date so arguably could be interchanged (subject to reprogramming for the immobiliser etc) and on Fords, it was the "Finis Code", almost the same thing i believe. Hopefully someone will be along soon with more in-depth knowledge of the Jaguar numbering system.

Sorry to disagree but i wouldn't use any - i'd find a proper bolt-on jobby! 😮 Seriously, if that chunk of metal comes loose at mortorway speeds, you may have trouble explaing to the nice A&E doctor how come you're wearing a leaper so far up your nose! 😮 Aftermarket bolt-on leapers are available new from this place in France, about 30 Euros although they can supply the genuine Jaguar leaper by special order for .................................. .......................................... wait for it............................. ........................ about 125 Euros All plus P&P and potentially Customs Import Duty of course!

Stroke

Rifle