LairdScooby

Mainframe

Maybe i'm being thick here but i can't see how what you're suggesting can happen - can you explain please?

Welcome aboard Mike! I've had my S Type just under a year (3.0V6 SE auto on LPG - or propane to our USA friends) and also think they're fantastic, under-rated cars. While searching for a forum/club to join when i first got it, this was the onlyy one that had a good amount of answers to everyday problems, all the others seemed to work on the "go to your dealer" idea! Hope you have a long and happy life with your S Type!

Software leaves me not just cold but positively Arctic so i might be way off-beam with this suggestion but have you tried doing an update on it to update all apps? I've experienced similar on smartphones (and computers even! Most ironic was i couldn't get my broadband and mobile accounts to display on my PC but could on my mobile, all services provided by EE!) over the years i've had them, done an update and - lo and behold - they start working agin, connecting when they should and so on. The other suggestion i was going to make was give it a few days in case there's a server or software problem at the place where the weather app is fed data but it seems you've already given it a couple of weeks.

First thing i would check is the fuse for the fuel pump. Often these will get dirty on the contact ends over time and while appearing intact (not blown) they will give the same symptoms as a blown fuse. Removing the fuse and cleaning the contacts (or renewing the fuse with a NEW one) with some emery cloth (NOT sandpaper!) may well solve your problems. Let us know how it goes!

Automatic (J-Gate)

I know a lot of the UK Honda owners use 1 pt of synthetic ATF (eg Valvoline Maxlife ATF, NAPA NVA) addded to the engine oil to help keep the VVT (VTEC) valves/solenoids clear, might be worth a try. Also works well on sticky hydraulic lifters/tappets.

Bodmin

Ionic

Spray

Hazy

Glisten

Battery

First of all the car won't know it's only an 80Ah battery so that isn't the cause of the Start-Stop not working. However, if you do get the start-stop working, a lower power battery will be more likely to go flat in traffic. It's obviously not fully charged as it should be 12.6-12.7V for fully charged. I would insist a 95Ah battery is fitted as per spec (assuming you have found a reliable source to confirm that) and then you probably need to reset the start-stop as well as other systems. http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXF.htm Hopefully you can find the relevant information there to do it.

There's a diagram of the 1999 "Parking Assist", something i've found is if road dirt is present on the sensors they have a tendency to give false alarms so they need to be kept clean. Never quite been sure about front ones, after all you are hopefully looking as you drive forwards! 😛

Precision

It sounds like one or more systems need resetting after the power interruption, have a look here and you will hopefully find the answer : http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXF.htm?utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

Correct

Starboard

Tawny

http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXF.htm If you have a look there Nick, there are several procedures, reprogramming the emergency brake (handbrake), auto-windows and so on and another section on the battery which should give the information you need. I'm guessing the original battery was still in the car and you used jump leads from your L200? If so, i seriously doubt any car would start if the original battery was completely flat, even without the various procedures to reprogram everything. Also make sure whatever battery you fit in the XF is fully charged as a emi-charged battery can void the alternator warranty. I'd wait until tuesday, fit the new battery then go through all the procedures. After that, hopefully you'll have a fully runnign car again, you may also have to go through a driving procedure to get the ECU to re-learn the fuel trims etc.

Is the engine actually cranking when it should? Also is the "spare" battery big enough to do the job? It's also possible the immobiliser is in a lockdown state, especially if the original battery went flat and it hasn't been cycled through the lock/arm and unlock/disarm procedure to reset the immobiliser and alarm.

Generally CD multichangers derive their power from the head unit on that age vehicle so it could be unplugged at the head unit, even just partially unplugged will do it. If you've only recently bought it, some dealers remove head units to avoid theft and only replace them for viewing/sale on the day of. Highly possible they didn't know to refit the CD changer cable Welcome aboard too!

Silly question but is the solenoid plugged into the electrical system? Also check a patch lead hasn't been used by the factory (to extend a shorter, common loom so it reaches the position of the VVT solenoid on your engine) and wasn't disconnected by the people that did the timing chain work. Also try resetting the codes, it may have been the garage forgot to reconnect when they did the timing chains and because the fault code didn't show immediately, didn't clear it - a historical fault can sometimes show later and cause problems.

Parliament