N6 JMX

Hi Phil, there is currently at least 2 XKR convertible on the JEC Classifieds site that could fit your needs, these are listed for sale via a "trusted trader", i.e. not direct from the enthusiast owner. Both of these are black exterior, one has ivory interior whilst the other has the black / charcoal interior. Dealer's website is in the link below: http://www.mpmlimited.co.uk/ I am also aware of possibly the best XKR Convertible currently for sale in this country and it happens to be in Norfolk, being sold by a true enthusiast owner. It is Italian Racing Red with the Charcoal interior. If you want to be put in touch, drop me a PM with your email address. N6 JMX

Hi Jonathan, your friend could try Swallows Jaguar at Rooksbridge, near Bristol. These guys are very good on Jaguars and will give good advice on what is required. Link below: Swallows Jaguar Specialist | Servicing, Performance & Motorsport for JLR Not sure that "affordable garage" and Jaguar go together though. N6 JMX

Hi Geoffrey, as I am sure you have found, there is nothing coming up on the web for a suitable towbar for your car, so truly out of stock. The diagram does not look overly different from the version that fits the XF, but it would need to be adjusted / fettled to suit your bolt pattern. Probably best to work with a reputable towbar supply and fit company in your area, or alternatively make inquiries with the reputable Jaguar Breakers such as Eurojag and Auto Reserve - both can be found on the web. N6 JMX

This could still be a poor battery and / or a bad set of earth connections. The ability to start the car is no longer the best test that your battery is fine. The electronics on your car are extremely sensitive to low voltage, which generally will not bother the starter motor until much later. Low voltage causes the electronic control modules to become unable to be seen by the CANBUS. N6 JMX

Hi Trevor, your post indicates you are in / around Wolverhampton, practically the heartland of Jaguar and I would have thought that every second garage would be knowledgeable about Jaguars. However, your post is quite light on details. Has the rear subframe got surface rust that could be treated by Lanoguard / Dinitrol application, which most small independent garages can tackle. Or, is the subframe rusted to the point of needing replacement, i.e. large portions flaking off and holes appearing? Which would require a major bodyshop to tackle. I have heard of someone replacing the rear subframe on a 2010 XKR and that work was undertaken by a company called XL Motors of Coventry - a recommendation from the local Jaguar Dealership. Unfortunately, this is a common misconception about the X-150 Modern XK. A lot of people think the aluminium body means no chance of corrosion, but as you are learning, the car has steel underpinnings and, especially, where the aluminium and steel meet, there is indeed a very high chance of corrosion happening. Especially so if the car is used all year round and experiences salted roads, or if the car has spent a proportion of its life living near the sea. And, of course, the aluminium body can experience oxide corrosion due to untreated paint chips and the application of a corrosive salt, resulting in areas of white powder appearing. N6 JMX

Have you checked the fuses? Sounds like one fuse should control all of the missing functions. N6 JMX

Hi Matt, I agree with John that a weak / old main battery could be a source of issues and if over 5 years, change it. In addition, I think your car may be fitted with the small auxiliary battery, whose task is to supply the sensitive electronics whilst the car is operating in start / stop mode. If this auxiliary battery has started to fail, it can pull down the main battery and the start / stop function will not work due to there being no supply from the auxiliary battery. In regard to the washer problem, are you sure your car is fitted with only a single washer pump? Typically the headlights are supplied by a second, higher pressure, pump albeit from the same reservoir. Failure of the pump that supplies the windscreen washers may be a factor. N6 JMX

Hi Steven, you could try Studio Cars of Preston, they look after the trim on a number of Classic and Modern Jaguars - as well as sell / repair Jaguars. Follow the link below. Used Cars Weeton, near Preston, Lancashire | Studio Cars Of Preston N6 JMX

Hi Trevor, I would listen to the guys at Adamesh. One stage is fine but the 2 x stages together are simply "TOO LOUD", plus you will have continuous pops and bangs on overrun and down shifts. Okay to start with, but when you can't turn it off, it can become very wearing. For info, there is another thread on here where the owner is looking for a cure to stop the pops and bangs. N6 JMX

Hi Ian, I think the brakes you are looking at on eBay are too small for the XKR, stopping power will be much reduced. Can i suggest you try another source for the correct callipers for your model of XKR. Try DCR AutoParts see the link below. DCR AutoParts - Independent Jaguar Parts and Accessories Specialist Dave there is a great source of parts and advice. N6 JMX

Hi Ian, welcome to the wonderful world of Modern XK motoring. Hope you have lots of happy miles. This is a great place for advice and insight, make sure you check-in regularly. N6 JMX

Smoke, associated with wiring implies heat and heat in electrical circuits is generated by resistance or shorting. If you had smoke for several minutes, then there should be tell-tale indications to assist you track down a location. Either there will be a melted section of plastic insultation (wire covering) = possibly with a brown hue on the adjacent wires, or even a molten mass of cables merged together. The fact that you now appear to have no electrics, would tend to suggest the latter - a molten mass where multiple cables are now in electrical proximity to each other because the insultation plastic has failed. Trace the wiring harnesses at the bulkhead - rear of the engine - before any further attempts to start or move the car. You are looking for those tell-tale signs. N6 JMX

As always there are different schools of thought on the "sealed for life" dichotomy. One thread says there is unreadable small print that actually says "sealed for the life of when we, the manufacturer, has warranty liability" for the gearbox / transmission. The other school leans towards the mechanical sympathy argument and implies that the gearbox fluids should be changed at circa 60k miles. There is quite a complex procedure for changing the transmission fluid in a Modern XK, which involves draining the gearbox and changing the filter, topping the fluid up via the level plug - there is no actual fill plug - and leaving overnight to settle. Throw in the fact that the routine has to be undertaken at various temperature settings, involving running up to temperature, allowing to cool down and then back up to temperature for more level checks, it is all a shade worrying that leads folks to the "leave well alone" school. Throw in the element that you cannot drain all of the fluid - there is the circuit via the cooler - and it does get to the point of let's just leave it as "sealed for life"! N6 JMX

Hi Norm, got your message and have now responded with a number of articles for servicing the X-100 model. Hope this helps. N6 JMX

The XE commenced production / build in 2014, so either you are looking at a pre-production model, or it is NOT an XE. Plus, the XE never came with with a 2.2 diesel engine - all XE were fitted with Ingenium engines of 2.0 litre capacity in the diesel fuel option. And of course, you have posted your question here in the XF Section! N6 JMX

Hi Matt, one of the major gripes about the BEV revolution is the continually changing position of the main manufacturers, Jaguar included, to the new vehicle sales pricing. Every time the manufacturer slashes the price of a brand new BEV, the second hand prices go into free fall. I have even heard of dealers and independents refusing to offer a part exchange allowance for a BEV as they "don't want to be stuck with it". There must be a reason behind the lease cost doubling - it cannot be because the vehicle costs have increased dramatically - is there perhaps a clue that the I-Pace is past its prime as a vehicle and is not a supported vehicle going forward? I am probably the complete antithesis to a BEV owner / aspirer, as I will continue with my ICE vehicles for as long as I possibly can - I simply don't believe the hype about the BEV revolution and am always wary about "Government Advice" - look back to "We should all switch to diesel fuel". If you plan to buy a used I-Pace and keep it forever, then you may possibly be okay, but if the 2020 model you are looking at is going to sell to you for over £15k, then you would probably be making an unsound purchase. Just my humble opinion. N6 JMX

Hi Norm, no - my XKR is coming up for 15 year's old and still goes to the Main Jaguar Dealer for routine servicing. We holidayed in Palm Springs about 4 years ago and I was quite surprised at the number of Modern XK I spotted, especially in the mall car parks. From that observation, I concluded that there must be a healthy enthusiast club for the marque, along with some specialist knowledge to keep them healthy. I have access to a service article for your model X-100, if you send me a PM with your email address, I can copy these to you and perhaps you could then get a local independent up to speed with your servicing needs. N6 JMX

Hi Peter, welcome to the wonderful world of Modern XK motoring - have many happy miles ahead. If you need help or support, this is a great place to visit. PS I would have hung on to the Range Rover Sport - just upgrade it to the SVR model! N6 JMX

Hi Garry, "by continuously" I meant making the pops and bangs on lift off / overrun / down shifting, not whilst driving along on a continuous throttle setting. The car / exhaust should only do this if either Dynamic Mode / Sport Mode (gear selector moved all the way to "S") is switched on, or by the sounds of it more likely the valve mechanism in the exhaust has seized into the open position. The car will also make the more "throaty" noises at engine speeds in excess of 3,000 RPM when the exhaust valves will automatically open 0 if functioning correctly. I am assuming that your car is a naturally aspirated (NA) XK and not the Supercharged (SC) XKR. In the NA cars, with a single tailpipe on each side, the exhaust silencer / rear section, has a "Semi Active Muffler" Valve or SAM. There is a SAM on either side of the rear section - back box - and the SAM are fitted with spring loaded, normally closed in general operation. The following is a quote from the service / workshop manual: "The SAM valves vary the tone of the exhaust to give a more sporty sound at higher engine speeds. The SAM valves are normally closed, spring loaded check valves. The SAM valves are non serviceable and the muffler is replaced as a complete assembly." If the SAM are damaged / stuck open, then you get the effects - all of the above assumes a NA car and a standard NA exhaust, i.e. not an aftermarket exhaust, which are generally tuned to give extra pops and bangs. N6 JMX

If it were the pads freeing from the disc after being parked to go cold, there would only be one "clunk", or at least one "clunk" per side. Can you confirm how many "clunks" are being heard and also clarify: 1. Is the clunk heard only when the front wheels are turned to full lock? 2. When you first engage reverse, do you travel any backward distance with the wheels pointing straight, i.e. no lock applied? 3. And if so, is there no clunk whilst travelling straight? 4. Is the clunk apparent whether you are reversing out of the driveway to turn right, or left or both? 5. If only with the wheel rotated to turn left, or right, which lock is being applied when the clunk appears, i.e. left hand down or right hand down? 6. If you look into the wheel arch of the nearside front wheel, use a torch, can you see any indications where the leading edge of the turned wheel may have contacted the wheel arch? N6 JMX

Hi Garry, if the 5.0 XK is continuously making the overrun pops and bangs, then the most likely culprit is the active exhaust valves may be stuck / seized in the open position. Alternatively, you have it permanently in "Dynamic" mode, the button on your centre console has been pressed. This latter option should give you a message in the dashboard. Unlikely, but another option may be that the previous owner fitted an aftermarket exhaust that is predisposed towards the noise. N6 JMX

Hi Malcolm, have you tried to replicate the manoeuvre anywhere else other than you own driveway, like a supermarket car park with plenty of space available? If so, does the noise appear in this alternative location? If the noise is apparent whilst inside the car, it may well be that a part of the wheel is contacting some part of the bodywork. Can you have someone else make the reversing manoeuvre out of the driveway and allow you to be outside the car adjacent to the nearside front. That way, you may be able to get a better handle on where the noise is emanating from. I don't think it can be normal, but I do know of some Porsche Boxster owners who experience something similar when making a tight reverse turn. This is due to the low profile wide section tyres on the Boxster. Incidentally, your profile information indicates a Jaguar XF, as you state in your post, but it has 1999 as the Year Of Manufacture. A touch strange since the Jaguar XF only commenced production in 2008. Something amiss! N6 JMX

Hi Peter, you could try the folks at Swallows Racing. They run a fleet of Jaguar race cars and whilst I don't think they have a Classic S-type, they would most likely know where to find one. Link below. https://swallows-jag.co.uk/ N6 JMX

Hi Lou, I believe your speedo and rev counter needle illumination is by LED in the Instrument Cluster, i.e. not a physical filament bulb any longer and the LED have likely failed. It is possible to repair the LED in the Instrument Cluster, but it requires the Cluster to be removed and fixed on the bench. There are firms that can do that for you, either you take out the cluster and post it off, generally turned around in 1 day, or you can drive the car to them and they will take it out, fix the LED and replace it in the dash. There are quite a few of these specialist repairers around now, but I am not aware of anyone in the Cheshire area - although there probably is. Type "Dashboard Repairs" into your search engine and I am sure you will come up with a number of them - they all seem to end in "Tronics". As in Totaltronics, Cartronics, Autotronics, etc. N6 JMX

Hi Chris, email response sent to you. N6 JMX