kcey

take the air filter top off disconnect the maf loosen the clip on the intake pipe undo the screws on engine cover the intake manifold is held in place by i think 10mm bolts two of which are longer (6 of) undo them pull the manifold to passenger side there is a breather pipe to disconnect then undo the coil bolts one by one disconnecting the lead as you go

try checking the servo vacum hose connections and see if its had the bypass if its got the vacum pump on

here is what i have found out,...my solus pro can't read the abs which means i can't find out which sensor it is on my brakes but i can eobd read the engine for codes .............. that group of digits is a comunication error because the scanner can't read the system

i have a feeling the misfire may be setting off the knock sensor and then the car goes into limp mode i've just found out the plugs in the jag are long life plugs chances are they have never been changed and at £6 each it doesn't suprise me ...they should be changed at about 75k miles but also the coil packs are prone to fail when hot/warm/damp and then seem ok again

the egr being stuck wouldn't put her into limp mode by itself would just chuck out lots of black smoke(soot) and run bad all the time

disconnecting the battery (or changing it) clears any code either on or pending it takes a while before the pcm decides if/or there is a problem needing to be coded...do you have an abs problem and/or when it happens does your speedo needle drop to a lower speed than you are traveling ...mine did today which is making me think speed sensor/wheel bearing one of mine is starting to make a noise and my abs doesn't work at all

3-4 miles from home and manual

strange that i have exactly the same problem but mine's a 2.5 v petrol if you find out anything let me know and i'll do the same i'm thinking it sounds like a esc issue

and after several trips out in the car most over 50 miles the light stays on and still only p1000 ???? any ideas?

p1000 will bring the light on its the only code that is on mine and my light is on

i did use them on a fwd car i had and yes they worked (this year on a scenic ) on icy roads it felt much safer and made wheelspin from junctions a thing of the past .... i had never used them before this i've owned 4wd cars and landrovers (still own my first a sierra xr4x4) for quite a few years and although i've had mishaps tyres of the winter sort wouldn't have made much if any difference

almost 2 years to late i could almost be 100% its a wheel front bearing common fault and a bit of a pain to change be carefull of the abs sensor if splitting the hub from the strut ...i don't i take the whole strut and hub off the car and press the bearing out

hi just to give another view on winter tyres...as the name states winter tyres not snow tyres are made from a different compound to "normal" tyres that don't go as hard in colder weather like normal tyres do therefore reducing the risk of sliding/skiding in cold conditions meaning it doesn't have to be snowing for them to be used just cold ....one disadvantage of this compound is they are softer so therefore wear more quickly i would also advise to use a branded make of tyre as some of the none branded companies just use tread patterns and not a different compound

Consett in County Durham

thank you all for the welcome gave her a 200 mile run out and all seems fine bar the engine light being on code p1000 not all monitor checks complete and no abs light has been taped over go figure ...as long as the brakes are ok which they seem to be im fine with that (not a fan of abs) had the car up on ramps at work and she's clean very very clean

code p1000 is a strange code it sort of means the ecu hasn't checked everything but everything is ok ....it mainly appears after a fault with a code eg o2 sensor code has been erased but the system thinks is hasn't been repaired even when it has difficult to get rid of my light is still on after turning it off several times was thinking of disconnecting the battery as per Ford mondeo and hoping it clears the light when running the system as per run in sequence any advice would be welcome here too

thats my baby my first jag but my second 4wd v6 car

had the same issue with the similar cure on mine it was the actual connecter not clipping onto the bulb correctly

the 3.0 in the x-type is transverse maybe the way the intake system is designed didn't allow for as good breathing as the s-type without issues such as overheating due to the cooling system also being restricted due to the positioning of the engine etc... plus i think the s-type is a heavier car than the x-type so to keep it on par power to weight etc... 2% more power

if after clearing the abs light you don't move the car (start her up though) and the light comes on its wiring,abs unit or the new sensor is faulty... if it comes on only when driving its the ring or in the case of some cars the whole bearing that is needing to be changed

just to say catclean will only work if the sensor is dirty not if its not working or the heater part of it is the fault it's easier in the long run to replace with a new part because if its dirty the engine isn't fueling correct or is burning oil etc...if its not fueling correct most of the time its the o2 sensor ...