JOE-DOT-COM

Hi

Changed the wood trim today in my S-type

All ways liked the darker colors, so I decided to have a change

Bought a set of trim off eBay, they can be bought really cheap

Decided on Carbon Fiber look, so had them Hydrodipped in Carbon effect and they came out really well

The pictures don't do them justice, they look really well in the flesh, really deep gloss

Also changed the centre vent while I was at it for one with a clock in it, looks well

I just wan't a charcoal armrest now, the ivory armrest is just too bright for me, think the charcoal one will match the seats, as there ivory/charcoal

I usually like original, so I've saved the parts, so any future owner could put them back, if I had bought the car from new this is how I would of ordered it

cheers

Joe

Hi

What engine do you have, I can look on Jaguar JTIS is there a procedure

cheers

Joe

Hi

I think its a great clip but could not find abetter quality clip

if you want watch the full episode, go on to you tube and type top gear S05E01 and there loads of the full episode's on there

they decide in the end on the Vauxhall Monaro, on cost, as its nearly 20K cheaper

cheers

Joe

Hi

Saw this clip and though it was a great little clip of the S-type on top gear many years ago

not the best quality, but the only one I could find 

link to clip CLIP

cheers

Joe

Hi

The ZF 6HP26, like Ron said is suppose to be sealed for life

though the life of a car is 10 years, manufacturers say

I changed mine about a years ago and my car is 13 years old, but its only covered just over 30k, It was also changed when the car was 5 years old by one of the previous owners,

I Did mine my self and the parts cost just under £200 for genuine ZF parts, which include 7 litres of zf lifeguard 6, new filter/sump, new pins for filter and mechatronics sleeve

the new parts have been updated better filter, bigger heads on the pins and the mechatronics sleeve, seals the wiring connector on the gearbox, which is known to leak

also if your has never been back to a dealer from new, which is unlikely may want software updates, last updates were in 2009, also they reset the adaptations, which is the memory for the gearbox, the gearbox learns your driving style and remembers it, but sometimes remembers dodgy gear changes and this reset can clear surging, lurching and erratic gear changes

there a clip on you tube how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAMseFY8GpY&t=91s

cheers

Joe

HI

Yes the bottom clips can be removed with out breaking them, and they go back easy as well

once the bottom is loose, you can just let them drop enough to see the bottom of the sills

cheers

Joe

clips are like this

Hi

Timing chains are generally maintenance free

check your hand book on recommended changing interval

but as a rule, they have self adjusting tensioners and as long as  there quiet that's it,

once they stretch to far they rattle,

cheers

Joe 

Hi

Its most probably easiest to fabricate one your self

you want one like this and then a standard 1/2" torque wrench

but I dont know where you will find a torque setting, as there usually just knocked on

cheers

Joe

HI

Its chain driven , only the 2.7 were belt driven

cheers

Joe

Hi

thinks it put there to stop heat transfer

I know there's a big piece under the supercharger

its just added to try to stop heat transfer from the engine block to the supercharger and inlet pipework

not seen it visible like that though

cheers

Joe

Hi

From what I can think off the top of my head

most important sills, sills can completely rot away, there hidden under a plastic cover, so cant be seen easily, but if the rear arches have bubbles, there most likely the sill are gone, as in completely gone, don't matter what year, there completely random

check for knocking and banging from the suspension, theirs loads of suspension bushes front and back, if driven hard these can fail, should be silky smooth drive

check all tires are worn even, uneven Tyre wear usually means worn bushes or rear tie rods

front and rear doors, check front and rear vertical seam on the inside of the door, they start to corrode first there, looks like spiders under the paint where the seam sealer is, front of front door is hidden under a plastic trim, this just pulls off and slides up out of the way

check every thing works all the electrics, check abs, engine management, air bag lights, light up on the dash and go out, seen lots of these led's removed or taped over

check fuse box and boot well for water, they leak in around the rear lights and can cause fuse box, rear reverse module and other modules to fail.

check all the keys supplied fit and work on the car, because its got a second key, dont assume it fits and works

ifs it got electronic parking brake, test it at least a dozen times, these also fail regular

also use a app like "VEHICLE SMART" which will give you its old mot history and advisories, lots of corrosion advisories is usually a bad sign, also you can check all its old mot mileage history on the same app

take it for a good run and let it idle for a good while, some are known to have overheating issues, with faulty thermostats, clogged radiators or even failed head gaskets

service history is always nice as well, looked after examples will all ways come with a pile of receipts

its also worth checking the headlights as well,if there normal halogen, then you can adjust the height of the beam on the dash, operate the switch and make sure they go up and down, the adjuster inside go brittle and break, you can buy replacement adjuster, but you have to remove the bumper, to remove the headlights, if its got HID lights, when you switch the ignition on, the lights go up and down and then self level, every time you switch the ignition on, adjusters in these also fail and if you unplug the headlights with the battery connected, you need jaguar software to reset them and they wont self level till they are reset

cheers

Joe

Hi

try disconnecting the battery, it should clear it

make sure you have the stereo code first

also your mileage is not required for Mot, it will just be recorded as 0

cheers

Joe

8 hours ago, Lazlo Woodbine said:

Good call! I had similar on a BMW but it only did it in reverse which seemed very odd until I found the cause.

I'm so far behind the cutting edge that I didn't actually think of a MAF on a diesel..

Hi

Nowadays Diesels have more sensors and electronics than petrols have,

gone are the days of super reliable mechanical diesels

cheers

Joe

HI

Have you checked the hoses for any splits

if there's a split in a hose it will cause it to run lean, because its sucking unmetered air from the split  and misfire

the easiest way I've found to find splits in induction hoses, is to use easystart, with the engine idling, spray it around the induction hoses, if there's a split hose the easystart causes the revs to raise, giving you a close are to look at

Ideally you want someone with Jaguar IDS/SDD to fault find on it, don't if there's any body on here near you

what engine does your car have

cheers

Joe

Hi

A friend of mine had this recently and it ended up being a split hose on the induction side, between air filter and engine

because when you drive steady it draws in unmetered air and causes problems, his was surging and with lack of power as well

cheers

Joe

Hi

I'm sure mine on my 2004 S-type R are air inflating bladders

as you can hear them deflating when you retract them, they feel like a double bladder

cheers

Joe

1 hour ago, R2e said:

I hate to be unkind but can't you do what I did with my S Type and google "OBD connector location (S Type Jaguar or whatever)"? I just did for the XF and there are pics and everything! Google is your friend people!

Hi

This is a good point

also maybe worth mentioning that most questions  have been covered in the past, and one way to find answers really fast, is to use the search bar at the top right of this page

this with search all the topics on this site and will usually find great answers with out waiting for some one to reply

cheers

Joe

Hi

Some great cars

cheers

Joe

Hi

If your after one just for the odd fault code I'd have a bluetooth OBD II scan

its just a bluetooth adapter you plug in the diagnostic and then pair it up with your phone, mines a android phone and I use apps like "TORQUE" and "DASHCOMMAND"

both allow to read and reset fault codes, you can monitor most of the sensors on your engine and you can monitor and log sensors, like short term and long term fuel trims, essential to find air leaks on the engine

and the bluetooth adapter can be bought for less than a £5, software app can be installed for free off play.com

but if your after a hand held code reader, Ive seen a lot of people have the Icarsoft which is one of the best for jaguar

cheers

Joe

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iCarsoft-LR-II-LANDROVER-RANGE-ROVER-JAGUAR-OBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-/302333505073?hash=item46647b2e31:g:BeIAAOSwCU1Y4Aa0

Hi and Welcome Darren

I have a S-type R and they a great car to drive

cheers

Joe

Hi

If your getting hot from the drivers side, dccv valve for that side must be open

if you unplug the two valves on the dccv and then it goes cold, the control unit might have failed, these usually fail when the dccv gets soaked in water or the wiring has been shorted

I try unplugging the 2 solenoids first on the dccv , if it goes cold , you know there something holding it on

if you can swap the connectors on the solenoids on dccv , then the fault should swap, drivers side should go cold and passenger side gets hot, then you know the dccv is ok and its most probably the control unit

it may be worth plugging in with jaguar software as it would tell you where the fault is

cheers

Joe

Hi Tom

Could be one of very many sensors, but its usually a sensor

only way to know is to plug in, and see what fault come come up

you will need someone with jaguar diagnostics and most generic code readers wont display transmission faults

cheers

Joe

HI

I'd say its a electrical, all 3 at the same time

its either going to be a bad earth or a broken wire, or damaged loom causing a short

I'd disconnect the battery, then disconnect the engine ecu and check with a mutil meter from the ecu connector to the 3 faulty sensor connector, make sure you have low resistance and there ok, no breaks in the wires

also check all the fuses, some sensors have seperate supplies, wiring diagrams below

cheers

Joe

workshop manual Jaguar Workshop Manual X-Type 2001-2009.pdf

wiring diagram X-Type Electrical Guide 2004.pdf

Hi

Don't know much about the XF but its a common problem on most modern cars and can usually be the throttle body thats dirty or even MAF dirty

MAF usually easy access but throttle body can be in awkward places on modern cars

Throttle body on modern cars is fly by wire, so mechanical link between pedal and engine

cheers

Joe

Hi

I get 34.5 MPG on my S-type R, which is the 4.2 Supercharged, which I think is great for the engine size and weight of car.

Never really checked it for local runs, But its not going to be brilliant, but like you say, never really bought it for economy, but must say the 4.2 V8 Supercharged is one of the smoothest engines I've every driven.

Its also worth mentioning if your after good or best economy out of your car, use the Cruise control more often, when the car is in cruise it goes into a economy mode, by keeping the revs as low as possible and locks the torque converter as well, there's a noticed difference in economy on my car if its driven without cruise control on runs

cheers

Joe