Old_Growler

On 12/30/2016 at 5:41 PM, Graham V said:

Hi Chaps 

Now that winter is upon us and frosty mornings are the norm I have noticed a problem or rather inconvenience with my Jag xf premium luxury in so far as  when unlocking the mirrors do not turn out . They seem to be prone to freezing up although a splash of hot water does the trick. Has anyone else experienced similar problems, if so any useful tips, I was thinking of spraying with WD 40.

Wishing everyone a happy new year

Graham

 

Go menu then security / vehicle and turn the folding mirrors off..Plus don't forget to turn off auto wipers by clicking the stalk down

On 1/9/2017 at 11:33 AM, Tracy W said:

Hi I have the 2.2D Luxury  but it has lots of extras on it, I originally nearly bought a portfolio but this one has more gadgets than the one I first saw so that won for me. I believe I need a USB instead of a disc for mine as it's the facelift model (61 plate)? 

The facelift model satnav is up-dated via USB 2011-Used the Denso system untill 2014 then changed to the IGO Primo system. Care is needed when upgrading as though on a 2014 plate the car could have sat in the dealers for months. It's not a lot of help now? But as part of the deal at time of purchase I would have request FOC it was up-dated.

Just to clarify what can be? And can't be done online using the DVLA personalised registrations electronic transfer from a retention V778 document to vehicle.

You need to have the V778 retention document with your name typed by the DVLA under the left hand side shown under Grantee. This name must match EXACTLY THE NAME ON THE VEHICLES V5 THAT IT'S BEING TRANSFERRED TO. This is then a free of charge transfer. A new V5 will be issued and if required? The MOT details will be up-dated at the time the vehicle is next retested. This is a free service.

Problems arise purchasing a personalised number privately or from some dealers if there details (name) is still shown on the V778 Retention document as the Grantee and your as the purchaser is wrote in pen under the right hand side shown under Nominee. Then the DVLA online electronic transfer service can't be used!.

The Nominee (you) will need to send the V788 document signed by BOTH the Grantee and yourself with the vehicles V5 back to the DVLA with a transfer fee of £70.

So if buying a personalised registration ASK 1st whether your buying it with your details added by the DVLA as the Grantee or just as the Nominee? If just as the Nominee then you need to factor in the transfer cost in to buying the registration number.

16 hours ago, DO55MAC said:

Hi. I currently drive a 2.2 D X-Type and love it, but am thinking of upgrading to a 3.0 Diesel. I will be looking for one about 2010 with circa 60 000 miles. One of the things I am considering is the cost of maintenance, and am hoping somebody could advise on things like cambelt change (if there is one, my X-Type has a chain) and what mileage/cost I need to consider, servicing schedules and costs etc and anything else I have forgotten.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Mac

Hi Mac.

If finances allow? I personally would look for one of the 1st 2011 facelift models. The pre-facelift models had very poor dipped headlamps & satnav's + check top & bottom of the chrome strip across the boot-lid for blisters in the paint.  As for maintenance & servicing costs? There be no advantage using a main dealers if the warrantee is out, Even though they have a price menu for + 3 year cars (See servicing main dealers menu for costs) Your be in for a 'spanking' bearing in mind servicing is usually done by a low paid apprentice + Issued with a health check list usually with quotes for ££s of extra work added, Which I think are given to frighten people of older models with no knowledge of cars. I think cambelts are changed at 10 years or 100,000 miles whatever comes 1st so you should be safe if that kind of mileage is genuine.

On 7/4/2016 at 0:22 AM, Alj said:

Thanks Gents. 

The revs are an interesting point - it idles at about 750rpm, which I have though might be a little low?

 

Dave, that was pretty much the point about it being the same hill - my old one didn't roll back and I'm sure this one didn't until the last couple of days. 

Have heard mention that the 8 speed box can make a difference but I'm sure something has changed.

 

Thanks again,

 

Alistair. 

6 speed 750rpm.Should be closer to 850rpm for the 8 speed 3.0D

It should be the 85mm grille badge..Held in place with 2 pins and sticky tape..Heat the badge with a hot air gun / hair drier? And gently work around  under the edges and lever off (Care needed not to mark the surrounding seen part of the grille) 

Just looking though this old topic.. To clarify the original OP question regarding a remap on the >>XF 3.0D<< engine. There's seems to be some confusion on this post between the 6 & 4 cylinder models! The 6 cylinder diesel can ONLY be done via the 16 pin on-board diagnostic port if the ECU is removed and opened to by-pass Jaguar's block to enable a remap! This applies to whoever supplies the re-map, Whether it came with a handset like Bluefin* or not. If Buying a Bluefin* map  your will need to add £60-£70 to the cost of the handset to have the ECU opened and enabled.

There's one on the front & one on the rear. Plastic covered sensor leads that wear through and will earth to the disc at about when the pads are only approximately two 3rds worn! Usually the rears wear 1st on an XF. If taken to a main dealers your end-up with an eye watering bill! Consisting of : Discs, pads, sensor & brake fluid change. Jaguar OME brake pads & disc's are not the best available "The discs wear fast & the pads dusty" plus they don't come under warrantee.  After market sensors can be purchased a 3rd cheaper than they can from Jaguar. I my self use Mintex discs and EBC yellow pads. Your find that most aftermarket pads won't have the cut-out on the metal backing plate for the sensor, Which is easy to solve and takes 2 mins with a small hand grinder to cut a 'U' out. There's nothing special about replacing Jaguar brakes '30 mins a corner' and can be done with a standard tool kit & trolley jack + if the rears need doing your need a piston winding in tool or just purchase your self quality UK manufactured parts from a reputable supplier? (As that's the big mark-up in cost) And take it any independent mechanic. 

Thanks all. Well at just short of 70yrs...I think I will have to take it easy? And pass on any demands on my body from 18-21 year old nurses.

Back again and still breathing after a long illness

17 minutes ago, DAN@ADRIAN FLUX said:

Hi,

Not too sure exactly what you are looking for an answer to.

Regards,

Dan.

By not declaring none std vehicle modifications to get cheap insurance then expecting to be paid for any accident damage. Either that? or I wasted my time and money insuring my Subaru with Adrian Flux and should have chanced just insuring it  with any old company as a std vehicle and saved money.

7 hours ago, Claws said:

 

Fair enough Peter, Joe, you guy's will know a lot more than me

I'll give them ago

Thanks Andy

i get it now, I'll have to have a listen as well now 

Regards

Steve

Try Cillit bang limescale & shine...Spray and then a light rub with a none scratch 'white' nylon scouring pad..leave for half an hour..An extra quick spray then wash with a cloth and water..no effort no scratching and the parts shine like new (Works great also on wheels,Spot lamp backs, Rusty bumpers & hubcaps ect)

On 4/15/2016 at 8:54 AM, Russ68 said:

This is a bit of a concern as I'm doing discs and pads shortly, in my experience a complete change out sorts this indefinitely so interested to hear if there are brands and vendors to avoid and what the eventual solution / root cause is. Hope you get it sorted Ian 

Mintex discs & EBC red pads are a cheap reliable option. Your need to check front disc for size before ordering it will be either 326mm or 355mm

1 hour ago, Andyb123 said:

Hi Joe-Dot-Com and Old_Growler,

 

Really appreciate the great advice and details, maybe we can catch up at the Brighton meet if you're going down there, would love to see how you have fitted these things and get a bit of first hand advice. I also take on board the question about insurance and how it could be a double edged sword, very true when you think about it..

Joe that short trailer quality was great given that it was in compressed format, I thought that would be adequate but expect the actual footage  will be even better then. I have got to be honest that when it comes to electrical issue and fitting things in the car I am a total wuz and much prefer an experienced electric installer to do the job so that I don't do any damage.

 

Regards,

Andy

Many say disable the MPH..But the GPS shown on each frame is evidence of speed vs distance! As for voice recording..A roll of gaffa tape cures SLOW DOWN SLOW DOWN..from the wife..There handy to have because the built in battery allows to remove it from the car and use to take photo shots of any accident scene plus the DOD has a built in torch light

1 hour ago, Andyb123 said:

Apologies for bit of a hijacking of this topic, it is related a little in that the question is about sat nav upgrading.  I have a 2016 Jaguar XJL which has as far as I can figure out a UK only mapping set up. We are planning to drive over to Spain later this year to visit the wife's sister in Calpe - which is about 45 mins north of Benidorm. I used to have  a Rover 75 which had the NavTec mapping system which I was able to upgrade with the Europe map disc and it was a simple operation i.e. just a case of inserting the CD and it was plug and play.

 

Is it the same with the Jaguar sat nav system, do I go out and buy a Europe mapping disc and replace the current one that came with the car, only had the  a few months now and still learning about such things as the sat nav system. Not sure even if it is a CD disc based system or it it all on the hard drive, in which case upgrading won't be a simple task I guess.

 

Regards,

Andy

Same thoughts as Peter..Ask supplying dealer to update or upgrade FOC..If they want your servicing custom.It's on the hard drive! A few minuets to update..

On 4/14/2016 at 6:39 PM, Ian108 said:

Hi, I fitted new Mtec discs about 3000 miles ago and now they are developing a really bad shudder. MOT january with no problems or advisories so a wondering if ther is a Jaguar problem I don't know about or is it just the discs failing?

Check reviews online Ref: Mtec discs & pads? I think your find the answer A light weight car two tonnes of Jaguar..They look pretty in the box if you go for the colour ones? But who knows the metal source used to make them or the metals carbon content? 3000 miles or not I would back em as not fit for purpose.

2 hours ago, firebladepaul said:

Hi Ive just joined the owners club,  ive got a 2007 2lt diesel that ive managed to blown the engine on, ive bought a donor car that had a rear end shunt so im going to swap the complete engine and gear box. The haynes manual states to drop the engine out the bottom,  but im thinking for me to do it on the drive it may be easier to hoist it out the top,  does anyone know if it will actually come out of the top on not?

 

Your be fighting a losing battle trying to remove your old engine from the top! Try it with the donor car 1st and you see what I mean..Your be best with a hammer and chisel chop  the donor body work. Undo the Steering joint, struts, brake & fuel pipes and subframe and drag the whole lot clear! Find a garage with a lift and let them do it (Its not rocket science as same as a Ford) and let them fit the replacement as 1 unit removed to save pulling the drive shafts + labour costs (if you think your legs or brakes are better you can change at later date) Start to finish should take about 6 hours labour which I expect your recover sell the donor car parts.

I use a DOD LS 460w..My own PERSONAL opinion is to keep mum!  to insurance companies even if their is an offer of a few quid reduction in insurance. As these can be a double edged sword if needed for evidence

Unless the manufacture does an optional hard wiring kit or your an electrical expert don't remove the plug as most contain parts inside to lower and stabilize the voltage.

19 hours ago, Raistlin said:

Personally, I've not found that to be the case Paul, although there is a great deal of anecdotal evidence, although not empirical evidence to back you up I'll agree.

I once had a highly modified Rover 620Ti which had a heck of a lot more than just lower springs  which was written off and my insurer paid up more than I thought it was worth without the slightest argument. Since then, I've seen two other cars written off and both times the insurer and I came to an amicable agreement.

I'm making the assumption here that you inform your insurers of any modifications you make?

Insurance companies, like any other, are out to make a profit but crooks? From my experience I'd find that a bit harsh

 Best ask Dan at Adrian Flux for a definitive answer? As there experts on what counts as modifications?

Maybe there be a bit lenient if only bent metal and just a body shop engineer is involved in issuing a condition report ..Just wait until 3rd party person injury claims for £1000s are involved, Insurance companies will check for modifications to vehicles with a flea comb! And I not joke! Even a towbar fitted if the driver involved does not hold a licence that includes they can legally tow.

As for crooks? There's making a profit and there's making profit! 1st year there fight for your business! Asking whats the cheapest price quoted then under cutting that but keeping your payment details on record..2nd year your find for no reason £s added and just hoping you lazy and not check the last years cost (That's the reason your not find the amount paid on the certificate) so they can auto renew insurance using your kept details. If queried the answer will be: For your benefit

51 minutes ago, Andy the tyre man said:

I have a pair of sport powerflow boxes on my diesel S type and their not loud at all.

only time I hear them is if the dpi regen cycle is happening then they have a nice low burble. 

I fitted them because I had them from my old 3.0 S type and the garage I bought my diesel from painted the tips on the old pipes black!! 

When I had them on my 3.0 I was amazed, not by the noise, which was impressive but by how many times it swapped between 4th & 5th!!

never heard it with the old boxes!

Usually on V6 TDI you get just a burble at tick over / driving at low speed but once nailed the exhaust note changes to mostly hearing the turbos spooling up.

15 hours ago, Simjag said:

Every install of lpg (but not my present S) I have done has been followed by a trip to a lpg specialist to check it over and put it on the register.

But I'm feeling this is a waste of time as every insurance company (and I change companies every year) over the last 6 years have not asked or checked it's on the register and you only get £10 off read tax per year.

Ah yes there quick to take your money!..But try claiming and if they find the slightest reason not to pay? (lowered springs ect) Insurance companies are crooks

11 minutes ago, Tigger said:

Thanks, David,

I don't do the servicing myself, there's a really good Indy a couple of miles up the road from us who has been doing our cars for 7 years and his labour rate is only £40 per hour, he's such a good guy. I took her in for a new gasket on the water pump along with a hose replacement and he only charged me the labour as he had the genuine parts on the shelf, rare old thing these days.  all the cleaning and polishing is down to me though.

 

Paul.... Loving the white leather piping and growler on the gear selector ! Now where's my vac and the big black bin liner 

Cheers

Andrew

You letting the side down Andrew..... I reserve that chore for woman

By the time the ash tray is full and carpets won't upI  and buy a new car

On 4/10/2016 at 10:55 AM, Simjag said:

Hi,  thanks but will be fitting the lpg myself, have done 10 cars so far.

Though not illegal to do a DIY conversion problems arise if you ever need to make an insurance claim for a LPG converted vehicle that is not a certified installation. Most insurance companies require the registration number to be on the UKLPG vehicle register.

11 hours ago, 5ltrFrank said:

Where i've fitted my Compressor, just north of the battery, there seems to be on a previous post picture a smaller battery fitted, what's all that about ? 

For diesel models fitted with eco stop / start as diesels vs petrol.The diesels take more power to start and the 2nd battery saves killing the main battery.

For all the sage you been though getting that spare it would be worth a flat tyre just to use it