Old_Growler

46 minutes ago, Simjag said:

Hi all,
I'm thinking of maybe replaced my hyundai coupe and getting a 2nd jaguar, it would be 2007/8 petrol model which I would fit lpg to.

Is there anyone with a lpg powered XF on here?

Cheers.

K Mugglestone & Co Boston Lincolnshire..Who are Jaguar & LPG Specialist will convert a XF.

An excellent and friendly family run company that I've used a few times to do some hateful jobs on mine.

20 hours ago, 5ltrFrank said:

£500, I wish !!!

Went to collect my spacesaver today, oh dear again !!!

Dealer offered to fit it for me, then found i've a sub in the boot floor so i need a host of other things for the wheel to sit on and above, besides the jack toolkit polystyrene holder. ( I did supply my Vin Number to identify my vehicle but alas eh !!!)

The saga continues ! Saturday is the next instalment.

When i came out of the dealership my vehicle was surrounded by dealership mechanics (   Sorry i meant Technicians ) They said they hadn't seen one of these before !!!

I would have demanded the one installed in the grey one.

2 hours ago, Bobt said:

Many thanks for that. I wonder if I can get anything for it? Anything I do get will go to a charity.

Try the classic Jaguar forum now you know the fitments

19 hours ago, Bobt said:

Having a clear out and I've come across a Jag steering wheel boss. It's a black crackle finish, centre horn push, nine fixing holes around its perimeter, with the characters "TOP B33" punched into it. Looks new and unused.

Any use to anyone?

Its a Moto-lita boss MLW1115-15 ...Fitments: MK2 / 420 /S/ XJ/ E Type...Retails around £57

On 1/19/2016 at 3:22 PM, j and j said:

can any one help every day when i start the car a lot of smoke come from her for a few seconds and the car then runs ok 

Smoke? or condensation? Is this happening just when 1st starting in the mornings from cold or at every start up whether hot or cold?

On 3/29/2016 at 1:04 PM, RugbyGuy said:

Well I'm now the proud owner of an XJ.  62 plate MY2013 portfolio in Red, lovely car and drives so much better then my old Citroen C6 (though that was a bit of a special car too).

Took a few friends for a drive and everything seems to be working except for 2 things.

The rear windows will not open at all.  Neither the front or rear buttons do anything, tried switching on and off the child lock and playing with first and second positions but nothing at all. no clicks or sounds to suggest they are trying to work.  I can't pick out a particular fuse for the windows, but the ones labeled rear modules visually seem to be ok.  If I hold down the unlock button, which is supposed to lower all windows, only the front ones open.

2nd problem is the mirrors don't fold when I lock the car.  They do fold if I hold down the 2 buttons together, so they are definitely there, but I would like them to fold when I lock the car.  Manual says this is a dealer option, so it may be that I go back to jaguar to fix but just want to make sure.

Has anyone got any ideas of what to try for these.  I'll go back to the garage but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything obvious for these issues first.

Thanks

Disconnect the battery earth for 10 minutes and that should return the car to default settings. Windows should open and the mirrors should auto fold on locking..I think you have to input in settings if you require the N/S/M to auto dip to the kerb in reverse.

20 hours ago, RugbyGuy said:

Well car is off to the garage today.   It's getting picked up and dropped off, much better service than I got from Citroen.

i have noticed some rust round the sunroof so I'll see if that's covered under warranty too, I hope it is.

Corrosion/ rust of the sunroof frame is a known problem affecting xj cars up to 13my . Dealers and Jaguar are aware! Of the problem due using poor quality parts. They just hope no one looks around the frame when the roofs open and don't spot the problem until there 3 year paint warranty expires (Its 6 years for STRUCTURAL corrosion, But the crafty so & so's class the frame as none structural) Get back to your dealer and DEMAND that either a new frame or complete sunroof is supplied FOC under warranty. Don't take any bull from service reception! Repainting the frame you have fitted now won't cure the problem as what you see on top will be x2 times worse under! If your dealer doesn't want to know? Make a BIG issue of the problem with Jaguar HQ CS as your be timed out soon on making a claim.

19 hours ago, 5ltrFrank said:

Went to collect my spacesaver and  all the necessary from Listers in shirley to be told " They hadn't been ordered" hence the delay.

so my first Jaguar experience with Jaguar has been a disappointed one !

There's a stratus grey RS for sale where I bought mine, HA Fox Nottingham !

Thanks it might be worth a look? Its still at a full retail pre16 price. At least it has a space saver spare included Only thing of  concern is the mileage being at 17,500  and the next would be a major service + brake fluid renewing in July which is likely to be expensive as your paying for someone else having the benefit of putting the miles on without paying! And leaving the next owner to pick up the bill. Its a wonder of the universe that the car will sail through Jaguars pre sales check but in 3 months time all the brakes will be shot! Unless it sets a new world record of ome brakes on a RS lasting more then 20k...You should have negotiated with FOX on the price of a wheel or better still FOC to have one included? As I think your pockets are about to be emptied by a further £500!

18 hours ago, 5ltrFrank said:

Paul,

Thank you for the photo of the space saver / Tool kit in the Sportbrake.

The Space saver I've ordered is 19" ( jaguar claim the 18" won't fit over the bigger calipers fitted to my R S model, so I'm told ) and all the necessary ( don't really know what the necessary consists of until I collect it, Saturday now )

re torn between an A6 and an RS ?  Drive an RS,  I've come from a 5.0 supercharged Range Rover ( too many problems with it  ) I'm loving every minute so far, You won't be disappointed i guarantee it !!!

regds Frank.

 

 

 

Now Saturday? Did they say which month Typical of ordering parts from Jaguar. I think all there dealer store rooms must be broom cupboard size.

Re:  XFR-S Conservative here and would have to be Stratus Grey and seen every colour but!..Cops around here are to inquisitive if stand out from the norm. Had a near same blue V40 or was it a 70? Volvo all look the same to me lol.  Pole Star estate as courtesy car..Within 35 mile got pulled over apparently they were about to get a white one and wanted to check it out

Sounds like your diagnosis is correct..Someone has been over enthusiastic in filling and the level is checked on the 5R55N box is as you stated, But there should only be a dribble when the filler plug is removed after warmed up with the box in neutral on a level surface. Confusion arises as given fluid amounts are given are for a dry box and torque converter and once run the torque converter retains fluid even if you drain the box. Options either a bucket under and wait to the fluid to stop or use the drain plug leveler (If it still undoes) to drain some off while the engine is running until gushing stops then go for a run and recheck and top up if needed until just a dribble comes out.

Tip if draining the box to renew the filters. 1st do as for checking the level! If ok drain the fluid and measure it before disposal. This will then give a starting point as to how much is require to refill. The days of the good old dip stick are long gone.

17 hours ago, 5ltrFrank said:

Space saver and all the necessary is on its way as we speak ( collecting tomorrow)

The space saver wheels used are the same as a saloon..+ the same for both -19 & 20" whether the rear road wheels are wider or not 1 size supplied fits all, So easy to find on somewhere like eBay. All associated fittings are in a different location. The spare wheel in the sportbrake sits facing up and in the saloon facing down with the tools on top...The sportbrake  tools are located under the wheel by the side of the batteries. If yours is without ? you will also need the tray that sits on top of the space saver as this prevents the load space floor from bowing if carrying a heavy load. Its worth purchasing an after market wheel wrench as the ones Jaguar supply are rubbish. Plus I keep a carpet square sample in the back as its a hands on knees job to locate the jacking point.

I myself have been looking for a XF RS sportbrake as suffering from withdrawal since selling my Subaru. Plus I think the neighbours are missing there 400+bhp morning wake up alarm. I'm still undecided between a XF RS or a RS 6 Avant as some 4 wheel drive capability is an advantage where I live. Plus the Audi has cheaper tuning options..Decisions Decisions! 

23 hours ago, Quayman said:

Hi, What can anyone tell me about sportbrake brake pads? My car has only done around 15k miles, the brake pad warning light has recently come on, I understand they do this when around 40% of the friction material has worn away?

what about replaceing the pads using pads with no sensors? The car is regularly serviced so I don't forsee a problem?

Try EBC Red to front & Yellow to rear. If need disc's Brembo are a good option..Your need a rear calliper tool.

Try with both palms each side of the window pulling it down while someone operates the switch

You could try a local engineering company to see if they can skim the worse of the damage on a lave. You can purchase special wheel paint kits and respray yourself? Remember to remove the old tyre valve1st (you can buy nice stainless steel valves that bolt on) I doubt there be any internal corrosion unless you been using an old compressor with out a water trap, most on service station forecourts use an instant electric compressor without a tank, Mostly there just be rubber to remove where the tyre bead contacts with the rim unless run under inflated then your find dust. Any tyre fitter worth the salt would use a rim protector on alloy wheels or hand fit them. Plus if you really wanabe posh you can get a rim protector in different colours that fit between the tyre bead and wheel or purchase tyres with a moulded rim protector.

17 hours ago, Mike666 said:

Hi all 

Just a quick update, I have swapped out the old sensor but the pin won't move off the stop. Some times when I turn her on it will register a temperature but then slowly drop to the cold position

Any ideas please

Mike

Try the sensor wire direct to earth see if the gauge moves?

17 hours ago, Mike666 said:

Hi all again 

Not having a good day so far.

My coolant guage has stopped working was told it was probably the sensor but don't know where it is on the 2L diesel any advance?

Many thanks in advance

Mike

Behind the water pump pulley

Plenty of replies are full of negatives? But no one has used a modern fabric type! Yes I agree with the comments if using a plastic based cover. I live out on the marsh by the Wash and as there's nothing to break the wind as its flat and lays 3 feet below sea level, I get the full force of storm force winds off the North sea These modern covers are made of soft heavy duty nylon on the outside and the inner is like a nylon velour fabric and are a made to measure excellent fit. Once fitted for a day or so adjust it to snugly fit the cars contours and pull the elastic skirt down over the front and rear valances and re-tighten the nylon straps that go under the car (these come with protection pieces for the sills if needed) If the car is clean and polished and the velour is not placed when fitting or removing where it can get grit then the paint should be ok. So unless you have a garage? Your between the devil and the deep blue sea! Either suffer the possibilities of a few minor paint marks under a cover or let the sun,rain & snow do whats comes naturally to old Jags.

Hi  I bought a 'MONSOON' which is a dedicated to car model shape cover for my Austin A40 when I had to leave it outside over a winter. Had no trouble with paint marking ect plus it is soft lined with pockets for wing mirrors and nylon straps which go under the car so it can't blow and flap around, Plus it has built in flaps that auto vents air between the cover and car body. My car is still in its original factory 1959 cellulose but I have heard tales they can leave white marks on refurbished paints and water based paints. These MONSOON covers are not cheap but are of an excellent quality and tailored fit. On the downside you need to be a !Removed! trying to refold and packing it after use! 

Points awarded for guessing the censored !Removed! word  M???ch??t   Clue: Unless you resprayed your Jaguar with lots of aerosols it shouldn't end up 50 shades of grey.

Just an after thought if no saying no compression? Turning the camshafts without a belt is not a good idea as the crankshaft and all pistons would need to be in a position not to contact a valve so you would have no compression and unless the cam covers are removed you can't see if all valves are opening and closing as normal..It could be possibility burnt valves if the timing was out.

1 hour ago, jampot said:

I have been to look at the car and the valves have hit the pistons, ( no compression)  taking off the cam belt cover there is still a belt fitted to the vehicle, removing the belt I could turn the camshafts and water pump and idler pulley so what I think has happened is they fitted a belt to tight, it broke, they collected the vehicle and fitted a new belt.

 

I did not touch the car, one of the workshop staff removed cover ect, if there was no belt they could say a stone must have got between the belt and a pulley, but I have never known anything to cause valve to piston contact, other than maybe reving the engine flat out standing still or incorrect timing when fitted.

Thank you by the way for your reply, it has answerd many questions what to do.

Its a mystery if the belt was still in place and the timing marks correct? It would not be possible (if that's the only damage) for a valve or valves to contact with the pistons even if rev hard as the electronic rev limiter would cut in so yes it is suspicious. As far as I know? most modern Lexus (engine unknown) have a hydraulic  tensioner. You fit the idler making sure it alines the belt with the pulleys then pull the locking pin out of the tensioner. The only way would be to have the head removed an an independent specialized engineer give there written opinion? You would need something if taking anyone to court as magistrates are just lay persons with regards how a car engine works and the garage will end bulling them with science and you? with questions you can't answer.

13 hours ago, jampot said:

My wife's friend took her Lexus to a garage to have the cam belt replaced, they changed the water pump and idler, 5 weeks (180 ) miles later the cam belt snapped with valve to piston contact, the garage said they are not going to explain to a woman who does not know anything about engines, but its nothing to do with the work they done, anything could have caused it to snap, yea pump or idler giving up but they changed them, the cams still turn ok, now who agrees with me it was put on to tight and its their fault, the reason I ask is am I missing something here, maybe 80000 miles later but not 180. 

                                      Just needs some ones advice before I take a ride over there and lose my temper.

 

Hi David It's pointless losing your temper Think it best that you put your complaint in writing and send it sign for (keep at copy + proof of posting from the post office) to the garage giving them 14 days to reply.

I guess by the answer the women received? Its not a main Toyota dealership? It would an idea if a negative response is received to the letter sent (if any) to have the car taken to a main Toyota dealer and a engineers report issued  as to whether the parts used were genuine Toyota or cheap patten part copies? And the reason it failed? If the parts used were not fit for purpose and they were supplied and fitted by the garage then the failure would be down to there workmanship (Only other way it could have failed it a stone entered the belt guard or the belt timing was wrong causing a valve to hit a piston or it dropped a valve) Your? only redress would be though the small claims courts if the garage won't admit liability and you won the case but still not settled then take the claim to the high court and instruct bailliffs to recover the loss. It might also be an idea to check the car insurance as some have built in legal advice and free recovery of loss. If paid on credit card it might? be worth contacting the issuing company as the invoice payment might? be protected under section 75.

2 hours ago, Old Peter said:

Hi Adam, and welcome to the club

Paul has given you some very sound advice which you should follow.

Where you live, your age, and your occupation are big factors in the cost of insurance.

I currently pay about £520 per annum with Swift Cover, but if I lived in a quiet village in Dorset it would be half as much.  I do about 6500 miles a year, but if I did about 10k it would go up by £50, and where it is kept his also a criterion.

Swift Cover give me a 12.5% discount for using a Nextbase Dash cam, so that is also worth thinking about.

Regards,

Peter.

Damn think I would  cry at paying £520! I'm only a poor retired train driver so any donations to purchase a 5.0 Sportbrake would be gratefully received

I'm with Privilege full comp for me and the wife is £194.91 per year with a 5000mile limit, And no points  Plus its a good excuse to drive the wife's car as hers is faster  than the Jag

I also have a dash cam (no discount given) and the cars are parked on the drive as the garage is full of junk + an old A40

On 2/27/2016 at 9:14 PM, Boka said:

Hi all 

don't want to fit a tow bar for carrying my bikes and won't use roof mounting so looking for info on bike carriers any body might use thinking saris 3 bike but any info would be gratefully accepted .

Thule freeway do a dedicated clip on range not requiring a towbar for rear tailgates/boot lids..You just need to make sure the model chosen does not cover the number plate and rear lights when carrying your bikes? or your need electrics and tow board fitted Plus the downside is possible paint damage either from bikes or the clip on rack.

7 hours ago, vulterey said:

Good evening to all members, 

I am about to join your team of happy users of this amazing car. 

But before I will do it,  I will need some help from you. 

I was looking to buy an x-type with less than 60000 miles on the clock,  but unfortunately when I checked insurance costs for me,  it shows that my budget is too low :( as I am trying to pay off insurance annually,  but as this will be my first car in UK, an insurance will cost me a lot. I cannot use any NCB as my last car I owned, was sold many years ago.

So I have few questions about X-Types:

1. Is 60000 is kind of magic point after this car will need a lot of costly maintenance jobs? 

2. Can I buy newer car,  let say from 2006/2007 with 75000 which is cheaper or should I go for 2004/2004 model with 58000 miles?

This is my first few concerns, I will be grateful for some advice from more experienced users. 

Cheers 

Adam 

 

 

Hi Adam

1st if your getting quotes on line? Your dealing with a machine! That decides the cost on the information you supplied? So I would advise either visiting a broker or to telephone one.

Insurance is not calculated on the mileage* the purchased car has already travelled? But on your supplied estimate of your yearly mileage? Market value* of the car? Your employment and associated insurance risks of that employment? Is the car used to travel to and from or involved in carrying goods related to your employment or just used for social, domestic and pleasure use? Where the car is kept day times and over night plus the risk in relation to the post code? Your ages plus how long you or any additional drivers have held a full UK licence? Has any drivers any unspent points on there licence? Do any drivers have criminal record or pending conviction motor related or not?

Market value* is based on set valuations of the cars year? model? and mileage travelled when purchased? So for instance you pay £6000 for a car that's done 100k its market value may be only £3000 for a insurance valuation in a total loss claim, Where's the same year and model that's only covered 20k its insurance valuation would be much higher but not valued at your £6000 purchase price but at what you could be expected to purchase a replacement car of at least the condition of the one its replacing.

As for purchasing a car only you can decide what your willing to pay? And where to buy from? Private is not always the best route if inexperienced as old Jaguars can quickly become a money pit.

14 hours ago, thehutchmeister said:

Hello all,

The turbo has just gone on my beloved 2004 S-Type 2.7d.I have been advised that both Turbo's need to be replaced.I had a second opinion also which confirmed this.In which case I either risk getting 2 reconditioned Turbo's and I have found a mechanic who will fit them and do all associated bits for £350.Alternatively I can pop a new engine in.Any advice either way?I have located the Turbo's for £295 each.I called the local salvage yard who had just sold a complete engine for £700.Anyone know of any bargain places to get a replacement engine?Obviously I have no mechanical knowledge what so ever.Hence being on here and asking foy your advice. ☺

You should be able to pickup a remanufactured exchange turbo for around £260 if your casing has not split? If the cause is lack of Oil check the filter in the feed pipe plus if 2 turbos? failed best to check its not faulty EGR valves that caused the failure. It would also be wise to remove and clean the intercooler if the pipe looks oily inside + engine Oil and filter change. Its good practice after a high speed run to let the car tick over for 2 minuets before turning off.