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welcome to the fold pal

Have a look on eBay for part number MNC1490AH. Aftermarket being a lot cheaper than the originals.

If we are talking about the 'R' badge, mine was missing its orange at the top, see picture. I managed to match this colour with one of the wife's many different nail varnishes at it worked a treat and as its enamel paint it will last for ages

I had my 2015 X250 3.0D S serviced this week. When I got in the car today, the "Low Washer Fluid" warning came on and I immediately thought of the well known fault where a leaking washer pump can ruin the car's electrics by leaking water onto the ECU. I tried to check the actual level of the water but despite my best efforts couldn't see the level - is there any way of checking the actual washer water level, just in case it is the sensor that has failed rather than the water level actually being low? Also, am I right in saying that the ECU that can become corroded by the water leaking, is the one behind the removable door to the right of the accelerator pedal? I checked this and as far as I can tell it's all bone dry. Mine is one of the very last X250s, produced in mid April 2015 and the VIN is later than the one mentioned in the Jaguar America bulletin on this issue so in the past I've assumed won't suffer this well known fault but on reflection, I think it's worth me booking the car into a specialist that knows of this problem to get it checked and to go for the spliced wire modification - even if my car is a later one which wasn't affected, I think the mod is worth doing for piece of mind. I'll also ask if they can check if the washer pump is leaking and whether any water has got into the ECU area so they can dry it out. Am I right in thinking that the battery doesn't need to be disconnected to do the wire mod? Many thanks in advance.

Body panels still available

Try mark at jagrar he currently has a few s types he is breaking so may have a good condition seal

Force

I have just experienced the same issue on my Jag XF 2013 with a pop and restricted performance message. I was advised by the AA it was an intercooler plastic pipe issue but looking at these threads I think it might be the plastic casing around the intercooler itself - does that require the enire intercooler to be replaced?

I'd read the DTCs first before you fire the parts cannon at it. It sounds like the whole bank is effected so i'd look more at a fuel delivery/pressure problem on that bank and as a general bit of maintenance, run some injector cleaner through it.

This thread has a load of info with pictures on how to fix it without having to remove the dash. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/c-drain-duck-bill-fix-my-solution-149349/

Bye the way I have a silver grey car Lunar Grey and the number plate and boot open surround was grey painted ( Slightly different colour to the car, there was nothing wrong with it but the new chrome one I purchased on eBay new but old stock was beautiful and after a short polish it looks absolutely fantastic well worth the effort and so easily done after a short watch of the afore mentioned you tube video, what do people call them they are not videos or DVD,s ?? Spyderromeo

Yeah, never believed the Lifetime BS I have purchased Dexron VI, hope it works FYI IF anyone is interested in my journey with this 2006 Jaguar S Type R check out my YouTube channel JAGVETTE1

If you go down the Lanogard route, it needs an annual inspection and top up treatment, but it doesn't go "hard" the same as Waxoyl. N6 JMX

Hi N6 JMX, thanks for explaining, good to know. I was aware it was a model x150, but thought it was still an xk8. I have had the car ceramic coated, should I also wax it before putting the car cover on?

Sorry about the crazy characters in the description of my car I am going to blame software as it was not there when I checked it. XKR X150 4.2 litre blower convertible.

Behind the rear number plate is the emergency key access. Remove the blade from the fob and open the boot that way. if you can’t open the boot that way then there is the emergency positive post behind the rear passenger side wheel that you can hook up to.

Hi Jim, you can wash the fabric top in almost the same manner as the remainder of the bodywork, i.e. with a quality car shampoo in a bucket of warm water and a microfibre mitt. I have had convertible fabric tops on my cars for a long time and, believe it it not, I do power wash the roof but obviously not using the full beans output of the power washer. Angle the flat spray so as to sweep across the top, moving the soapy suds over the top until there is no residue. Then get a clean, lint free, type cotton towel - typically an old bath towel, although a microfibre drying towel will also work, and dry the fabric by drawing the towel across the car as opposed to along the car, you will see the effect after the first sweep, but use 2 passes. I also use Meguiars convertible top protector to top up the waterproofing - it beads just like the paintwork but disappears quicker than your waxed areas. I actually produced an article for the JE magazine a few years back, which if you want to PM me with your email address, I can send you a copy. N6 JMX

Thank you Jimbov! Exactly whats needed. Cheers

Hi, are these wings still available? regards john

Thanks guys for your responses.

Hopefully that's the answer but I've been at this for 6 weeks constantly blaming myself now I can blame JLR thanks👍

Thank you will have a look now!

You’re very welcome Paul.👍

Try this first, move the seat forward so that the seat has room to recline as far as possible and then recline the seat but hold the switch down for at least 5 seconds once it has reached its limit. Then try and recline forward to its limit and hold again for at least 5 seconds. If this does not work then you will be forced into a recalibration by a dealer or independent specialist.

back in the 70's neighbour had a dark red XJ that we used to stare at as kids. mesmerised that it had dual fuel tanks, which as a kid was very cool. Smell of the creaky leather.. nice.