All Activity

Hi I would only use ZF lifeguard 6, because its never a good idea mixing oils. Genuine kit comes with oil, filter, new pins with larger heads and new mecha sleeve, which were prone to leaking on the electric connector. when you change the oil, only about 6 litres drains out of the box, about 4 to 5 litres stays in the torque converter. never known any body have any issues with using zf lifeguard 6, but a lot of people who use a different brand seem to get problems also, when changing the oil, ideally you should clear the gearbox adaptations, so the gearbox learns how to shift again and you get smoother shift, sometimes putting fresh, slightly thicker oil in, can make the gear changes quite harsh, also reseting the adaptations can only be done with software like Jaguar ids/sdd and some icarsofts, disconnecting the battery does nothing. also if your getting harsh shifts, if the gearbox has never been updated, software update can cure this, last update was 2009, my car was a 2004 and had its original 2004 software, updating mine cured the surge/hunting when it was cold at around 30 to 40 mph. cheers Joe

Hi If its like the S-type ACM, you can only use a flash drive up to 8gb on mine I created folders called CD1, CD2 and so on, then copied my mp3's into them, use mine all the time, there great. cheers Joe

HI Change the oil, thats got the ford gearbox and uses Standard ATF oil so cheap and worth changing, usually fixes a lots of problems, especially if the oil is low cheers Joe

Hi Dave, Auto, 3ltr V6 petrol, year 2000. No warning lights on dashboard.

Manual or auto Kim? Engine, petrol or diesel? Any fault messages on the dash?

I have a judder from the car when pulling away and was hoping someone may have some idea regarding this problem ? It has been suggested that it may be a fluid (or lack of it !) problem but would value others ideas. Its a 2000 registered car with 140K onthe clock. Thanks for reading, Kim Marsden.

Thanks Dave - you're a star! JLR (Barrets Ashford) wanted £192 to supply a key. I then drove to Timpsons and they did the whole thing, in Tesco's car park, in 20 minutes, for £89. Job done. Thanks again. Martin

For Sale - my beloved 2007 XJ6 which I have owned for 10 years is looking for a new home. The car is in great condition for its age and has been well looked after, but as with all cars of a certain age, it does now need some TLC. I no longer have the bandwidth to continue maintaining it. I will give an honest appraisal of the issues I know need fixing - the rest in terms of service history, maintenance and regular care means you're still getting a lot of car for the money, if you are prepared to spend a little more you will have a great car that should last many more years. The car has done a mix of local (30%) and motorway (70%) driving in the time I've owned it. Highlights: **Full Jaguar Service History** - serviced / parts and maintenance all supplied from JLR dealership local to me. - Engine is solid, punchy and still sounds fabulous. 135K Miles. - Cream Leather interior - generally very good. One or two minor marks but otherwise looks good as new. Driver seat wear commensurate with daily use, but still well maintained. - Heated Seats - Heated Mirrors - Parking Sensors - Toolkit (present, with locking wheel nut) - Timing chain (serviced per manufacturers guidance) - Overall really good condition - interior is very good, with the exception of the headlining starting to sag (a known feature of old Jags). - MOT due November 2025. - Exterior - a few blemishes, one surface scratch to driver door (jealous neighbour), small dent to driver side wing above headlight, small area of paint bubble to passenger side door. Otherwise the paintwork is sound and she cleans up very nicely. - Alloys ok, some scuffs. Things I've fixed/replaced/cried and laughed about, and lived to tell the tale (this list is not exhaustive): - Electrical wiring loom - Drivers mirror (due to mirror heater defect) - DPF filter (historically replaced, occasionally still get the 'DPF Full' amber light on, but an energetic drive usually clears it) - Undertray / fixings - Windscreen washer pump - Fuel tank straps - Front track rod ball joints - Suspension components (arms/wishbones/bushes) as required over time - Rear brake drums Stuff that will need fixing if you want to enjoy this car for many more years: - Gearbox sump pan is showing some oil leaking - needs investigating. Gearbox can be a little sticky coming out of Park, so suggest needs work. - Exhaust fumes escaping - cat seals - Jaguar recommended either to use a repair kit, or if no expense is spared, the replace the catalytic converters. - Pipes/corrosion (brake pipes, general wear and tear, need replacing) Tyres/brake pads will need maintenance in line with regular servicing (already recommending to replace soon at last inspection) Lastly, please note that the car has a few registration plate changes: - Plate from first registration was BG07 BHO - Private plate on the car from 2016 until 2025 - When I took the private plate off - the DVLA issued me with a new registration LS07 LFV, which is the plate on the car now, and on the V5. This is because I had made an administrative error during the initial transfer to my private plate, and so as a result, BG07 BHO is on retention (I have the retention certificate). £3000 ONO All documents and service history etc are available for inspection on request. Car is listed on other sites.

First port of call would be a JLR dealer for preference. Next Timpsons - i believe they can now decode your existing key and fob and supply new, programmed replacements. There may be other suppliers online that can reproduce the key and fob, worth an internet search.

No second key - how do I get a new key, please? This is for my new (old) XK8 (X100) purchased recently. The single key and fob both work fine but losing it would be a disaster.

Have you had the sock absorber top mount checked not sure if there is a bearing on the top of the shock or just the rubber mount.may even be the collar at the top of the spring.

Hi, thanks for the reply, the dust shield is fine, maybe I’m not describing the sound correctly, it’s like a repetitive knocking when you go over a poor road surfaces

Check the brake disc dust shield hasn’t come adrift and also any heat shields. Noise does travel and may be coming from a different area to where you think.

Good evening, I have had a continuous annoying rattle type noise coming from the front passenger side, the noise is worse when I go over rough road surfaces. The car has been mot’d with no problems, a Jaguar mechanic cannot find anything and an independent mechanic has also said he cannot find anything. I have had new upper control arms and yesterday I replaced the drop links, the noise is so irritating and I’m at a loss to know where to turn to next, has anyone any ideas, I’m wondering if maybe the anti roll bar bushes need replacing, has anyone done this, it doesn’t look a particularly easy diy job, and I’m not relishing paying for a mechanics time if it doesn’t solve the problem. Thanks in advance

I have an XKR MY 2010. It has IPod and USB interfaces. It plays from the IPod. But when I insert a USB flash drive (32GB FAT32 .mp3 files) the system sees it but permanently displays DOCK USB. Does anybody know what I am doing wrong? Jim

welcome back 😉

Thanks Joe, they are up near where I bought the car, will take a look

That doesn't sound like an EGR related problem to me, more like a DPF or fuel supply problem. Try https://superchargedperformance.co.uk/ in Bury St Edmunds, to my knowledge they've sorted a 2.2 XFD and a Range Rover 3.0 V6D with good results

Hi, XF 2.2D EGR valve question.... The link pipe that goes around the back of the engine if this was faulty would it cause the car to stall at 2000rpm when puttting your foot down but the car idles fine at 800rpm and can run without issues? Removed the EGR and replaced with a new one and cooler, the only thing reused was the link pipe... No errors or codes stored just stalls and cuts out at 2000rpm

Ideally you should hook up a code reader first to see what the car says. No need whatsoever to have the engine running to check the sensors. That advice should be ignored as it is inherently dangerous…….

You can check individual parking sensors by having someone sit in the driver's seat, engine running and engage reverse, whilst keeping the car stationery on the brakes. You then listen / feel each individual parking sensor and you should hear / feel a ticking from those that are working. Any that are silent, are not working. N6 JMX

OK I am new to this S Type, but I have had one before, however this one has an annoying habit of beeping when at light or when I start off, my assumption is that a previous owner replaced the front bumper and either damaged or blocked one of the parking sensors, all ideas welcome.

Right there with you scooby, changing is always better

Overtake

Check your front tyre pressures and then if you don't find anything, check the front dampers (shock absorers) and front suspension bushes. Also have the wheel alignment checked - all of these things can cause the steering to go exceptionally light at speed.