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Maybe Tony, it depends how badly blocked it is. It could also be that you've lost a lot of the cooling vanes between the radiator runners (that go between top and bottom tanks) which would reduce the ability to cool. Gentle driving at moderate speeds would reduce the need for cooling but going up a lot of hills, being stuck in traffic or motorway use would increase the cooling needs. Before you shell out on a new rad, i'd suggest getting a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. If you can find someone that can flow test the rad as well then so much the better. It could be you were just unlucky with the top hose and the relief valve blew on the new one (i assume it was brand new?) because of insufficient coolant and an airlock becoming pressurised to the point where it popped the valve.

Hi Dave, thank you for all this advice. I'm sure I need a new top radiator hose fitted before anything else as the casing "valve" stem round cap has popped and floats more or less in situ. I've found eBay item number:116062910765. Just a small point re what you say about the radiator maybe leaking or blocked, would this scenario have shown up earlier in the 150 or so miles I've driven since my garage fitted my replacement top hose, tested and filled with coolant. Or as with the unpredictability of cars taken its time to produce a repeat of the first coolant saga with the previous owner? Thanks, Tony.

You're low on coolant, did you top it up after the first episode? No, it doesn't work that way. As i pointed out a bit further up, the system is designed so you can use or not use the heater and it doesn't alter the engien cooling at all. At the risk of making a snap diagnosis, i'd suggest the main radiator is either blocked or leaking if the head gaskets have been ruled out. Also worth trying the radiator expansion tank cap. I had a similar thing with mine where the coolant would be at the right level but the heater was blowing cold, it turned out the cap had gone weak so was allowing coolant to escape when it shouldn't which created airlocks. Because the heater matrix is so high on the S Type, that's where airlocks show up first. Worth trying one and topping the coolant up to the cold mark before you use the car each day to see if it's as simple as that : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403748795978 If nothing else, it will eliminate that as a possible source of coolant loss.

If the heater valve fails to open / fully open might this create an overheating scenario?

Hi Dave, journey was about 2 miles, park up, restart normally and temp gauge slowly passed halfway. I switched engine of in delayed traffic queue. Restarted and with next half mile gauge went into red and into fail safe mode. I was able to reset all 3 codes that allowed to drive normally and safely about further half mile home. Checked to hose and the value has popped with coolant splash. Driving all the time with blower temp set high but with coldish air. Like it for the last 30-40 miles that why I wonder if the heater valve is/has failed. It seems so coincidental being linked. Thanks, Tony.

I have a probable fault in mind Tony but can you tell me, during your journey today, was it longer than the other journeys and did it involve motorway work and/or extended town work? The heatr valve simply opens up to allow hot coolant to flow to the heater matrix, the system is designed so that if cold is selcted, the heater valve is powered to close and the system runs as normal, regardless of the position of the heater valve.

Rock

I hope this reaches the correct destination, but apologies if it misses the mark. Hi everyone. I'm reaching out for hopefully some useful info to help direct my garage to fixing an overheating problem on my 2001 (51MY) S type. Its a 3.0 V6 SE. The background. Bought car with an overheating event. Sellers garage indicated no head gasket issue but the radiator top hose valve had popped. Seller did not want any further costs so sold car. I had my garage replace the top hose, pressure test cooling system. Hose changed and car static tested running for 1 hour or so to settled running condition. Original fault codes P1299 and P1285 both reset. Car has been driven for 150 ish miles since this repair with no issues. Then today temp gauge rose over half way and further and shortly after the car went into fail safe mode. The radiator top hose valve has popped on the new radiator top hose like previous. Codes P1285, P1299 & P0133 revealed and reset and with only short distance I confidently drove home. Prior to second over heating the heater blower had been blowing warm air but for the my last 30 miles or so blowing much cooler air. So any suggestions welcome. Might the heater valve failed and be causing the radiator hose to pop? Many thanks for your time and help, Tony. I'll answer any questions if asked or try to. Thank you cat owners.

Blackpool

Tower

Hi John, I’ll let you know how I get on. Thanks again for your interest. Alastair.

I have exactly the same problem with both my front windows my 2008 XJ Sovereign. Did you manage to resolve it? I’ve only recently purchased mine and will be looking into it.

Hi, I have recently purchased a 2008 XJ Sovereign 2.7 and I have a problem with both front electric windows. The rear windows work perfectly. They front windows will only move up or down in short increments. One press to go down two or three inches at a time. But when they go up I have to click at least 8 times for them to move two or three inches. Can anyone tell me how to fix this please?

Hi , I have the same issue with my 07 2.7tdvi , any luck with solving the problem ? I've spent plenty on mine too and it's very frustrating !

I had the timing chains/tensioners/guides replaced and new Lifetime Bilstein Shock Absorbers installed.

Donald Trump

Hi Alistair My understanding is that a replacement module will need coding to work. I would do a ring around and see if you can get the problem solved without a hardware change. Most likely problem IMHO is the software in the relevant computer module was corrupted by a transient low / high voltage event in the battery change (unlucky but it can happen). The simplest fix is to restore the software which is almost certainly possible with the correct diagnostics software and knowledge. Good luck 🙂 John

Cheers John, Thank you for your rapid response. I’ll know my next port of call if the BCM module does not work. Alastair.

Hi Alistair I Feel your pain having suffered permenantly locked rear doors / non-operational rear windows when I let the battery of my 2013 Sportbrake go flat in the first Covid Lockdown. Mine was fixed under warranty from a Non-Jaguar main dealer, (after the AA managed to get in and jump start it) who did have access to Jag main dealers in the same group. They apparently talked them through the process of re-coding the module using their generic "Autologic" diagnostic software. If you search on here there have been a number of threads about garages who can sort this in 15 minutes for around £100. I think one was a company called MDM at Coalville Leicestershire Obviously the East Midlands is a long drive from Cornwall but might be worth it. I think my first port of call would be to ring around and try and find a more local jag independent (there is one in Honiton, Devon) and see if they can sort it. Pretty sure the BCM replacement would need coding to the car in any case. Good Luck and please let us know how you get on as it helps others in the future. John

Hello all, I have owned a 2013 Jaguar XF for the past 11 years. Recently, at a non Jaguar garage, the alternator was changed, requiring batteries disconnect. I suspect that a battery saver was not used. Consequently the, dreaded, central locking failure and inability to set alarm was an immediate problem. I have subsequently replaced the batteries with, a scanner, battery reset done by the same garage. They, however, are unable to repair the central locking problem and don’t seem to be particularly interested. An electronics specialist believes that the rear body control module was “blown” when the batteries were disconnected at time of the alternator replacement. I have ordered one on eBay, just in case. Does anyone know of any other solutions, should replacement of the BCM prove unhelpful. Regards Alastair Paterson.

Unpleasant

Thank you, I’ll check this evening

The dashcam I have (not fitted) has an inline fuse already. I think that it is better to have a 2 Amp inline fuse just for the cam. Be careful if the wiring can chafe anywhere on the body work. Without going to a circuit diagram check if you have any contacts permanently live in the 2 dash panels.

Cacophony

Racket