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Rock

I hope this reaches the correct destination, but apologies if it misses the mark. Hi everyone. I'm reaching out for hopefully some useful info to help direct my garage to fixing an overheating problem on my 2001 (51MY) S type. Its a 3.0 V6 SE. The background. Bought car with an overheating event. Sellers garage indicated no head gasket issue but the radiator top hose valve had popped. Seller did not want any further costs so sold car. I had my garage replace the top hose, pressure test cooling system. Hose changed and car static tested running for 1 hour or so to settled running condition. Original fault codes P1299 and P1285 both reset. Car has been driven for 150 ish miles since this repair with no issues. Then today temp gauge rose over half way and further and shortly after the car went into fail safe mode. The radiator top hose valve has popped on the new radiator top hose like previous. Codes P1285, P1299 & P0133 revealed and reset and with only short distance I confidently drove home. Prior to second over heating the heater blower had been blowing warm air but for the my last 30 miles or so blowing much cooler air. So any suggestions welcome. Might the heater valve failed and be causing the radiator hose to pop? Many thanks for your time and help, Tony. I'll answer any questions if asked or try to. Thank you cat owners.

Blackpool

Tower

Hi John, I’ll let you know how I get on. Thanks again for your interest. Alastair.

I have exactly the same problem with both my front windows my 2008 XJ Sovereign. Did you manage to resolve it? I’ve only recently purchased mine and will be looking into it.

Hi, I have recently purchased a 2008 XJ Sovereign 2.7 and I have a problem with both front electric windows. The rear windows work perfectly. They front windows will only move up or down in short increments. One press to go down two or three inches at a time. But when they go up I have to click at least 8 times for them to move two or three inches. Can anyone tell me how to fix this please?

Hi , I have the same issue with my 07 2.7tdvi , any luck with solving the problem ? I've spent plenty on mine too and it's very frustrating !

I had the timing chains/tensioners/guides replaced and new Lifetime Bilstein Shock Absorbers installed.

Donald Trump

Hi Alistair My understanding is that a replacement module will need coding to work. I would do a ring around and see if you can get the problem solved without a hardware change. Most likely problem IMHO is the software in the relevant computer module was corrupted by a transient low / high voltage event in the battery change (unlucky but it can happen). The simplest fix is to restore the software which is almost certainly possible with the correct diagnostics software and knowledge. Good luck 🙂 John

Cheers John, Thank you for your rapid response. I’ll know my next port of call if the BCM module does not work. Alastair.

Hi Alistair I Feel your pain having suffered permenantly locked rear doors / non-operational rear windows when I let the battery of my 2013 Sportbrake go flat in the first Covid Lockdown. Mine was fixed under warranty from a Non-Jaguar main dealer, (after the AA managed to get in and jump start it) who did have access to Jag main dealers in the same group. They apparently talked them through the process of re-coding the module using their generic "Autologic" diagnostic software. If you search on here there have been a number of threads about garages who can sort this in 15 minutes for around £100. I think one was a company called MDM at Coalville Leicestershire Obviously the East Midlands is a long drive from Cornwall but might be worth it. I think my first port of call would be to ring around and try and find a more local jag independent (there is one in Honiton, Devon) and see if they can sort it. Pretty sure the BCM replacement would need coding to the car in any case. Good Luck and please let us know how you get on as it helps others in the future. John

Hello all, I have owned a 2013 Jaguar XF for the past 11 years. Recently, at a non Jaguar garage, the alternator was changed, requiring batteries disconnect. I suspect that a battery saver was not used. Consequently the, dreaded, central locking failure and inability to set alarm was an immediate problem. I have subsequently replaced the batteries with, a scanner, battery reset done by the same garage. They, however, are unable to repair the central locking problem and don’t seem to be particularly interested. An electronics specialist believes that the rear body control module was “blown” when the batteries were disconnected at time of the alternator replacement. I have ordered one on eBay, just in case. Does anyone know of any other solutions, should replacement of the BCM prove unhelpful. Regards Alastair Paterson.

Unpleasant

Thank you, I’ll check this evening

The dashcam I have (not fitted) has an inline fuse already. I think that it is better to have a 2 Amp inline fuse just for the cam. Be careful if the wiring can chafe anywhere on the body work. Without going to a circuit diagram check if you have any contacts permanently live in the 2 dash panels.

Cacophony

Racket

Hello I have a hardwire kit to install a dash cam on my 2005 S Type. Does anyone know which fuse I could use that has a permanent supply? thanks Julian

Badminton (Horse trials)

Hi Phil Info to help replace the stalk is here: http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFLightStalkReplacement.htm Lots of other useful info on that site. Sounds like it might be a dodgy contact in the stalk or a faulty Central Junction Box which controls current flow to both the indicators and the headlights. Does indicating turn main beams on even when light switch is off, or does it just move from dipped beam to full beam when the headlights are on and you try turning? John

Hi ste-- A big welcome to the club be nice to see a photo of your 1994 XJs all the best --- Frank

Trials

As the most untechnical person on this planet, I wouldn't know where to start 😏