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I had the same problem. Disconnecting the battery is a temporary solution. To fix it for good, you need to access the CJB (Central Junction Box) in the rear trunk. It is located on the right hand side of the trunk. You must remove the fabric liner. Once you have access to the CJB (box right above the battery with the 3 big relays), disconnect the positive from the battery. There are two connectors close to the floor (lower portion of the CJB). One is brown and one is purple. The problem is with the brown one. Since you are there, fix both of them! Disconnect them. Wwhen disconnecting the purple one, the parking lights will turn on (this is ok). Rub your finger on the connectors, you will feel moisture. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun and dry them. You will see some corrosion on the pins (CJB). I used a file to remove the corrosion. I also used a tiny screwdriver (used to fix watches) to scrape the female pins inside the connectors. Once completed, plug them back and reconnect the battery. Try the hazards by pressing the console button. If not working properly, repeat the file and tiny screwdriver steps. Once everything is ok, disconnect the two connectors (brown and purple) and add dielectric grease to the connectors. Plug them back and you should be good to go!

Hi If you like tinkering with your car have a look at this link, lots of info to keep the car running http://www.jagrepair.com/ cheers Joe

It was 4 years ago so no link I'm afraid. If you search for 'switchback' there are several kits that look a lot like the one I fitted. Here's a youtube link with a wiring diagram I copied; I didn't do the conversion to make the kit bulbs into 'proper' bayonet fittings; the rubber bungs on the kit bulbs fitted perfectly and have remained in place for 4 years, passing 3 MoT inspections in the meantime without comment.

HI transponder is chip in key, remotes talk to door module. new remotes can only be added with software like Jaguar ids/sdd you cannot add remotes with any other procedure by pressing buttons or switching keys all post 2002 s-type are like this should of been programmed to the car when the key (transponder chip in key) was coded to the car cheers Joe

Any update on the weather app / still getting the 'unable to connect' message on my ipace

Hi my name is Glen, I’ve just brought a 1997 X300 XJ6 executive and it’s fabulous and in excellent condition, I was a production manager for a company who made the upper door frames and the door trim ( chrome and painted ) from 93 to 97 then 12 months making spares. Blood, sweat and tears went into the production so thought it only fit that I had one of the last of the production. So happy to be a member of this site.

Welcome aboard both Glen and Andy! Glen - my previous car was a 1994 Rover Sterling and through the owners forum got to know a few people that, like yourself, worked on external production of various parts - always nice to have an example of the fruits of your own labour! Hope you enjoy your X300! Andy - what can i say, a 2018 C Type? Very nice! Not jealous at all, lying thrugh my teeth! 😛

Hi looks great The top side tend to hold quite well and look good and even better when detailed can also recomend when washing you car that a bit of time is spent cleaning the hidden bits, especially wheel arch area, and under side, sills and splash areas from wheels you be amazed how much salt this time of year accumalates in just a few days, when you snow foaming, do the arches and sills and if you use a wash/wax type wash, same again, It does eat the metal and alluminium. so easy to keep on top of I use a autobrite ceramic protection in the snow foam gun to do the arches and underside and it really does stop the dirt sticking cheers Joe

Hi Yes those are easier, you would'nt need the relay but would have to fabricate some kind of bulb holder, or even some old bulb holders and fix into them and solder wires on them they look ok though cheers Joe

Hi Andy, Would you like to start a new post under New Members section - top of main screen So everyone can say Hi🙂

Good Morning Andy, Hello and welcome, as above if you wish please post pictures of your car in New Members section, we would love to see them. Lots of great info on here too. Kind Regards, Julie.

Welcome to the forum. I'm new too.

The VVT does seem to get sticky, the flush seems to work well on these wonder how many people have replaced the VVT units when they just needed flushing would probably do another one, when you next change the oil. can recommend the Archoil products for this Glad your sorted cheers Joe

Thanks to Joe and Dave!! Tried the ATF flush and solved my problem.

A fe little bits of information that will help fill in the edges Russ - i've had my 827 Sterling a long time (16 years next February 29th) and had planned on keeping it for considerably longer. However a rotten sill which was meant to be welded by the MoT tester that failed it was only half done and then it was uglier than an ugly thing that lost a fight with the ugly stick. When i submitted it for MoT later that year (it took 6 months to get the car back!), the tester basically threw it off the ramp and showed my why. Many parts weren't even welded, leaving the car unsafe at best and a death trap at worst, no wonder it felt wrong while driving! A few months (April last year) i spotted my S Type and bought it. It filled the formula the 827 had, big Japanese derived V6, Stone Beige/Light Stone leather interior (Rover/Jaguar names for the same leather!), very comfortable with all the toys and importantly for me, the S Type has an LPG conversion. It's also only the second car to put a smile on my face whenever i drive it, the Sterling was the first. Also had my Volvo about 7 years, had three 740GLEs before that but had always wanted the V6 (like the Sterling, a 90deg V6 unusually) 760GLE but in all honesty, having owned this one for that long and done many jobs on it, discovered much of the Volvo engineering is the paper bag and scissors style then put something nice looking over the bodge to hide it. Yes, the mechanical side is good but the cosmetics are a bit rough in places and as for using soya bean derived wiring insulation, that's just silly! Having also had some Hondas before and of course the Rover being codeveloped with Honda when the first Legend was made (Project XX (Rover)/HX (Honda), it made a Honda a natural choice for me as a replacement for the Volvo. The rest i think you know! As for the Discos and MG-f you own, many parts are shared with the 800, depending on year etc so if you find yourself struggling for any parts, give me a shout, i may either have the right bits or know of someone who does or what will fit in place, even if it's not officially an MG/Land Rover part. Another one that is useful for us S Type owners, certainly the early ones anyway, the screenwash pump is also used on a variety of Fords (Transit, Connect, Mondeo, Sierra and others) and the first gen Volvo S80 so a replacement is available on ebay for under a tenner.

Indeed quite interesting! Sorry to hear about your health issues. Like me you're not a Jag only guy, I have a couple of Discoveries (mainly the wife's), and an MGF I've had for 20 years. I'd argue the S-Type was my favourite, I just need to get it back on the road and I'd like it a lot more! Hopefully yours will sail through the MOT and be useable again very soon, they don't seem to like being stood! For interest, I had a top notch automotive electrician have a look at the Jag and our Disco TD5 which were both discharging batteries. Turns out the Jag was basically OK, but it has a very long shut down procedure which means it's still drawing 2A 30 mins after you've turned it all off! Interesting, but probably not why yours ran flat: The Disco was not so good with issues with the towing module and air compressor destroying the relatively new battery. Apparently any aftermarket additions are the 1st place he looks for unwanted current draw killing batteries. Along with the obvious, interior lights and other kit left on etc 😉

Got it! In that case I'll go for 6000K too Dave, makes sense. I know I selected 3000K for some kitchen downlights recently, but that's a slightly different application 😆 Have you fitted them yet or still on the to do list? It seems like Chris is getting on very well with his, so I hope they'll bring our S-Types up to modern standards, which is very much needed!

My current LED bulbs are 6000K Russ as they are very close to natural daylight in colour temperature. Makes night driving much more relaxing and less eye strain. I'll certainly go for the same again! As you say, the ones with the blue tinge don't really look that good, on a Jag or anywhere else come to that! 😮 I find the 3000K or halogen colour temperature lacking in many areas, particularly during rain and dusk with all lights. One benefit of the LED bulbs, certainly with 6000K is that they tend to make animals eyes reflect light back so if there's a deer/rabbit/fox on the verge of the rural road you're traceling along, you actually get to see them so you can avoid them.

Fab! Thanks for that Dave. I like you get options for 3000K and 6000K with this brand, the 3000K much closer to halogen in colour. Would a 3000K bulb be as effective as the 6000K and is this what you will go for / have gone for? I know the 6000K is white rather than those boy racer blue ones you used to see, these are probably up around the 9000K mark and have no place in a Jaguar 😉

These are the ones i was originally planning on getting Russ : https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/led-headlight-conversion-bulbs-h7-4600-lumen-philips-z-es-main-dipped-glb477?_pos=6&_sid=9012460b2&_ss=r Not polarity conscious so no problems on the S Type, reversible heatsink collar so will fit inside the cover and 4600Lm per pair/2300 each - the Twenty20 doesn't specify if the 400Lm is per bulb or per pair but i would suspect per pair. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/pair-of-led-headlight-conversion-bulbs-hb3-hb4-4600-lumen-main-dipped-p20d-p22d?_pos=1&_psq=hb3+led&_ss=e&_v=1.0 The HB3 version for the inner main beams ^^^^^ similar spec in terms of not polarity conscious, reversible heatsink and 4600Lm/pair but obviously different fittings for the actual physical parts. Should fit in with the heatsink reversed. I've used that supplier for amny years now and recommended them to many, only had to use their refund service once and that was on something experimental so nothing to do with the products bought except too many were bought! I'm also a bit of a fan of the Z-ES Lumileds, those aren't specified on the Twenty20 bulbs so i might go with what i know, especially as they're a smidge cheaper!

Thanks so much to Chris and Dave for doing the legwork on this issue 👍 It look to me like the H7 twenty20 Compact is a direct fit for my 2001 as well, and while £50 for a pair of bulbs seems pricy, this is only compared to halogens, and if it's a direct fit from a tried supplier, it's cheap at half the price! They also show an H7 twenty20 precision option which is fan cooled and currently on offer. At 3600 lumen they actually produce less than the 4000 lumen Compact, so generally the Compact is the better choice right? https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/h7-twenty20-precision-led-12v-477-headlight-bulbs-pair.html They list an H3 Twenty20 compact for my main beam too, along with a pricier Osram LED version. I'd be tempted to stick with the Twenty20s if these have proven good upgrades. I'm glad I deferred sorting this out as the tech seems to have caught up with what I need. I can now get upgraded lighting without a ton of rewiring or exchanging headlamp units. Given the amount of work I want to do on the car, this is great for me! 😀

Have you got a link to the ebay DRL kit please? Might be an interesting upgrade, i made my own using switchback combined DRL/indicators LED bulbs for my 827 Sterling, quite a game as the indicator lamp units have a removable orange lens inside so had to strip and rebuild them. Hmmmm, i really want to get a longer beam as well as actually having illumination of the road in front. I know on both my Volvo 760 and Rover 827, the beam distance improved with H4 LED bulbs so i was kind of hoping the beam distance would improve on the S Type too. On the Volvo, because the reflectors were tarnished (they are 35 years old this year so are allowed to be! 😛 ) they wouldn't actually give a definite beam pattern on filament bulbs, it was only just good enough to get a pass on the MoT but the tester muttered about poor beam pattern, not likely to pass next year (that was 7 years ago and had LEDs in since) but the Rover had new headlights and both gave an improvement on beam length. Because of my experience with both cars and doing the outer beams (dipped and main combined on the H4) both got inner beam improvements too, the Rover got some el-cheapo "Chinabay" H3 LEDs that used COB LEDs instead of the better Lumiled type used on the H4 jobbies. This resulted in no beam pattern at all on the inner beams but because they were so bright (something like 10000Lm if memory serves, might be 6000Lm per H3 LED bulb) switching to main beam is like turning the sun on. The Volvo got 35W HID conversions for the driving and fog lights, both inboard of the outer combined dipped/main beam lights. As it's a 1988 car the MoT testers pass it anyway because it gives all correct beam patterns. Not had a problem with the Rover either but that was before they changed the law and i changed MoT stations thanks to the previous one bodging a repair on the Rover and making it unsafe to test, never mind drive! For now in my S Type i have some cheapy ebay "Xenon look" halogens that work well - normally! Although a vast improvement on the original (nearly black so probably original to the car) bulbs, still not great especially at dusk. Having been used to LEDs for so long on my other cars as soon as i get the Jag in for MoT (and hopefully through it too) i'll be getting some LED H7 and also HB3 bulbs for it.

Lenses crystal clear thank you. The lenses were milky when I bought the car so it was one of the first jobs to do. Followed by an Ebay kit to give me DRL lights hidden in the front indicators. Realistically, I don't see the beam pattern throwing any further; things on the road and verge are just much better lit. For some illogical reason I couldn't stick the mixture of LED and halogen main beam lighting so treated the car to main beam LEDs. It feels spectacular now.

Thankfully some MoT testers take the common-sense approach and if they give the correct beam pattern and don't incinerate the retinas of a mosquito on the test station ceiling (due to light scatter and excess brightness) will give it a pass. Also they're not allowed to disassemble anything so have to assume (because they can't see other wise) it's just a bright halogen bulb. Thanks for the heads-up on these, been looking for a while now. My usual supplier has some that are allegedly very good but always nice to get a recommendation from someone with the same car. Are your lenses nice and clear or do they have cataracts and has the beam distance improved?

I've been using Twenty20 Compact H7 bulbs in my '04 3.0 SE since September '22. They give a much improved light and and MoT-passing beam pattern. They agree with the canbus system. I chose Twenty20 H7 Twenty20 Compact LED Headlight Bulbs (Pair) | CANBus Ready LED's (autobulbsdirect.co.uk) because there is no bulky fan and the standard headlight covers fit back on nicely. I am aware that LED bulbs in an originally Halogen-equipped car is an MoT failure point, but I took mine to a no-appointment MoT garage, ready to change the LED bulbs out for the standard H7 bulbs and re-present the car minutes later, but no need. MoT passed last November and smiles all round.

Hi Glen, Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club. Your car sounds splendid, do you have any pictures please? would love to see it. Kind Regards, Julie.

This happened to me today, hazards came on several times whilst driving. Only short-term remedy was pulling over & switching ignition off. Also, Eco stop-start has stopped working simultaneous to the hazard problem. I assume they are related faults.

Hi Mark Thanks for letting us know what the problem was...and how it was rectified. Very useful for future reference! With the amount of rain we have had just recently I'm not surprised its found its way into everywhere. Regards Trevor

Hi Trevor. It was a water leak travelling across some cross section into the rear junction/relay box (in the boot) causing corrosion on the contacts. They had to fix the problem where the water was coming in and replace the relay box. seems ok now fingers crossed. Got the impression from the Jaguar Assist guy I phoned when this first happened, that he new what this fault was before he even saw the car. so he must have come across it before. mark.