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  1. hi all these are quite easy to do, as long as you have descent jack, axle stands, spanners and sockets front upper ball joint means swapping the whole arm which is quite easy rear tie rods would swap as a pair, these can be a bit fiddly but ok to do, rear tracking or 4 wheel alignment will need doing after this, as the tie rods are adjustable and alter tracking on the rear lower shock bush can be replaced on its own, bushes can be bought, if shocker looks ok, a vice and a few sockets will press the bush out and back in work shop manuals here http://www.jagrepair.com/ cheers Joe
    2 points
  2. Michael Welcome to the forum and enjoy your Jaguar experience. Would not wish to suggest what you should do yourself as I am not aware of what mechanical experience you have. Good Luck, Best Wishes and Regards, John
    2 points
  3. If the key fob and the central locking buttons on dash don’t work but the boot and fuel filler door still lock/unlock (you can hear them clicking when the fob buttons are pressed) but the doors do not and you get two delayed beeps then you need to sit in the car with the doors closed DON’T press the brake pedal and turn the ignition on and off with the start/stop button 4 times then press the unlock buttons on all fobs you want to re-sync then turn the ignition on and off again and the fobs should now work again and the mirrors will fold in when locked. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  4. It looks like this is what you’re after. https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/xr82213-housing.html
    1 point
  5. Now keeping the car until further notice - had the LPG fixed and she is running like a dream
    1 point
  6. Hi Victor, Definitely no leak that I can see, definitely when cold. Looks like a visit to my local indy Jaguar dealer where I bought it (my second from them), is on the cards Thanks again, Jon
    1 point
  7. Hi. Normal garage tools will be enough (spanners' sockets, Allen keys). Check out You tube for videos. If you're looking for pads, discs and wire, I can recommend MTec brakes in Derry/Londonderry. Free postage. I'm using their EBC Red and drilled discs. Good luck, Paj.
    1 point
  8. Thanks. I'll bear it in mind for next time, as chances are the plastic rods will be brittle so some tough new reinforced nylon sounds worth the struggle with heating up rubber adhesive.
    1 point
  9. HI there real easy to open and replace the adjusters especially if you have the HID lights, on a R model as there really expensive did mine and there great, better option than buying used, as they might already be broken cheers Joe
    1 point
  10. I would remove your existing headlights, buy the adjuster kit on ebay (make sure you get the one that contains 4 gear wheels per side, you'll need them!) and use a hairdryer to play on the edge of the plastic lens all round the light unit to soften the sealant, gently prying the lens away from the housing. Once you can remove the lens, do so and then you can strip the old adjusters (or the remains of) out and fitr the new ones. To fit the adjuster drive gears, i used a 10mm socket to support the new gear and a deep 5.5mm 1/4" drive socket to push on the threaded part with a little silicone grease on the end of the threaded shaft to ease it into the new gear. Once done, refit the reflector on the new adjusters, wipe any pawprints off the reflector with a microfibre cloth and put the lens in position ready to refit. Again heat up the sealant and work your way round heating, squeezing etc until the lens is completely refitted. After that i did a few "circuits" of the lamp unit with the hairdryer to make sure the sealant was even pressure on the lens and helped to spread it out/reseal. Unless you do this outside in the pouring rain or inside a sauna, there's very little chance of introducing moisture and is ~£500 cheaper than new lights. Don't forget the adjusters are a common problem on these so even if you buy some secondhand ones with apparently good adjusters, chances are they will go again. Much better to revive your existing lights with the adjuster kit which is made from glass-flled nylon or similar (don't remember the exact plastic but it's one of the engineering plastics) so will likely outlast the car! A timely squirt of silicone lube spray will help prevent the adjuster threads corroding and ease any adjustment necessary at MoT time. PS - while my lenses were off, i gave them several good rubs with T-Cut to remove the small amount of oxidisation on them then a few coats of Turtle Wax polish to help potect them. Next year i will revisit this task and once happy they are completely clear, will use this instead of clear-coat lacquer/varnish to protect the lenses from going opaque agin : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151172691767 If it does go opaque (doubtful as it rejects 99% of UV) the film can simply be peeled off, the lenses rebuffed with T-Cut or similar and a new piece of film fitted.
    1 point
  11. My car suddenly stopped blowing heat from vent and engine temperature began to rise. Found coolant running on ground running down behind back of engine. 4.0 L After determining that the leak was coming from under the intake manifold, I had no choice but to remove intake manifold which is a pretty big job. This is what I found. Waiting on replacement line. What a PITA to fix!
    1 point
  12. Just had to look up what PITA means ................ sign of getting old, which can also be PITA. Best Wishes and Regards, John
    1 point
  13. Hello everyone I have a very nice condition back box that is just taking up space. If someone has a need for it please let me know. No hidden agenda just want to save someone a little money if there's is in need of replacing. I know how expensive they are, I replaced it for a lighter weight exhaust. I had it checked with a camera inside for damage and it is in good order. I don't know if I can put my email but it is the best way to contact me. andrew5523@gmail.com
    1 point
  14. Hmm… Not really the mileage for changing the oil. Obviously, it wouldn’t do any harm. If you do get it changed, remember to insist on the proper lifeguard oil and zf filter (which is incorporated in the pan), these two are critical for proper operation I take it this is just at start up, when the oil would be cold? Is there a leak, low on oil? This isn’t a quirk, it shouldn’t be doing as you say
    1 point
  15. Hi If you think thats a PITA, you want try doing the same hose on the supercharged model Jobe will done though cheers Joe
    1 point
  16. Hi Peter, I ran mine on standard unleaded most of the time, with the occasional 'treat' of the higher 97 octane when I was on a longer trip. It's unlikely the better fuel would've harmed her, unless it was a bad batch. It's arguably more likely she needs a service, do you have a service history and can you see when the plugs and ignition coils were last done? Good luck, Russ
    1 point
  17. Hi folks, I thought I would post on replacing the fuel filter on my 2013 XF, 2.2d Prem. Lux as I had an issue that some may have also experienced. I looked online before changing the filter and didn't see many clear posts on this so here I go. 1. I placed rags under the filter so to catch any fuel that would escape. I also opened the filler cap. 2. I removed the 3 screws retaining the filter. (always good to have a magnetic tool available in case any screws drop as did in my case. 🤨). 3. Push in the tabs and remove the 4 hoses. Quite easy to do. Maybe a good idea to take a pic on your phone in case of any issues when refitting. On saying this they should be colour coded. 4. Lift up the filter and remove the 4 pin plug underneath. 5. Check the new filter matches the old one. Now here is when I had a problem. As I stated previously I couldn't find precise help online on if the filter needed primed or not so I refitted as is and after the car would not start. I ran down the battery trying. So back to the filter. 6. As the battery was charging I once again removed the filter following the steps above but this time I used the appropriate Allen key to u screw the raised port on the filter and then I pulled the whole thing out. 7. I then placed a finger underneath to prevent the fuel leaking out and I filled the filter with deisel. I then screwed the plunger back in, for the want of a better descriptive word and tightened with the Allen key. 8. I once again refitted the filter, remembering to plug the tab in underneath and also the tab above and the car started on the first attempt and has run smoothly since. I just wanted to list this as there may be a few of you out there in the same position and wanting to save some hard earned cash by completing a service yourself. Just a piece of advice is to purchase a Jag/LR diagnostic handheld as this will allow you to complete the oil, EPB reset etc. Really does save money. I hope a few of you find this helpful.
    1 point
  18. hi thats the zf 6 speed gearbox cheers Joe
    1 point
  19. Yes he used proper jaguar oil or so he told me, however i have no reason to disbelieve him.
    1 point
  20. Did they use the correct ATF??
    1 point
  21. Sort of a new subject. Suddenly I cannot lock my 2015 3,0 XF Jaguar. Whether I use the key fob or the button on the handle, not a single door locks. The hood and trunk latches are okay. Is there any chance it is the auxillary (small) battery in the trunk?? Thanks a mil for any help. Jake
    0 points
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