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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

Have a look here; https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/interior-rear-view-mirror-13104/jaguar/xk/xk-8-convertible-qdv

Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of £18,000. Number plate valued at £1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around £9,000. Please

I would look into having them remanufactured by a hydraulic fitters company. If you sent the eBay lot to them they could work them over. Since you now have a spare set you should look into it.

OK, hopefully I am not breaking any rules here (I know the UK government doesn't allow free speech 🙂 ) I am doing various jobs on my newly acquired S Type R and post on my channel JAGVETTE1 please check it out and if you like it please subscribe I do it for fun not profit, I make mistakes and I show them, I am a mechanic with more years of experience than I care to remember, BUT I know you are NEVER too old to learn. Thanks in advance Gary

Went for a long drive, steering much heavier in Dynamic mode at speed, checked all other suggestions, all OK, wife drove back, and she's happy, happy life, hope this helps.

OK thanks will do.

Hi I would only use ZF lifeguard 6, because its never a good idea mixing oils. would only buy genuine ZF aswell, aftermarket filters allways seem to leak. Genuine kit comes with oil, filter, new pins with larger heads and new mecha sleeve, which were prone to leaking on the electric connector. when you change the oil, only about 6 litres drains out of the box, about 4 to 5 litres stays in the torque converter. never known any body have any issues with using zf lifeguard 6, but a lot of people who use a different brand seem to get problems also, when changing the oil, ideally you should clear the gearbox adaptations, so the gearbox learns how to shift again and you get smoother shift, sometimes putting fresh, slightly thicker oil in, can make the gear changes quite harsh, also reseting the adaptations can only be done with software like Jaguar ids/sdd and some icarsofts, disconnecting the battery does nothing. Adaptation reset is allways done if the service is done at jaguar. also if your getting harsh shifts, if the gearbox has never been updated, software update can cure this, last update was 2009, my car was a 2004 and had its original 2004 software, updating mine cured the surging/hunting when it was cold at around 30 to 40 mph. cheers Joe

Hello all, 1st time jag owner here. I collected my 2014 xfs 3.0 sportbrake portfolio just a few weeks ago, it has been back to the garage already as it turns out the bcm was corrupt and it has the dreaded failed door lock actuator too 🤣 all covered on warranty thankfully! Apart from that i am absolutely loving the car! Anyway thought i would introduce myself, im Tommy, also known as the ADHD Fishkeeper (yes diagnosed and not one of them that claims they are but never seen a professional) on tiktok. Im 33 and from the yorkshire area, im looking forward to learning as much as possible from the forums and even meeting some of you at any of the jaguar events.

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.😊

Start with the basics, check the diff oil level. It takes about 750ml of fluid and is simple to suction out and refill, not a bad idea since original 19yr old fluid will be in there. I use Smith & Allen FS 75w-140.

Thank you Jim, simplifies things when you have an idea of what does what! I have found the fault and rectified it in a couple of minutes, problem was the vacuum module which is located under the battery tray, for some reason one of the multi pin plugs was not fully connected?? Don’t know why? It’s now making full contact and system is working properly! pedal is now solid. Just have to put everything back together again and job done! I am surprised that I didn’t get a DTC for this fault. Thanks again Regards Steve H.

Slaughterhouse (Shambles is an old word for it)

Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.

Let's take over 😂

hah, what are you doing here?🤣

Just joined after buying myself a Jaguar XF...just need the alloys refurbished now. Cheers Scott.

once you find a battery, try the battery mega store, order before 12 and get it next day, a lot cheaper than most shops cheers Joe

I have a 2L diesel (grey) x type saloon for sale in nice condition throughout, high miles, half leather interior still like new. It has just had a replacement turbo fitted but I'm told it also needs a high pressure fuel pump as these sometimes suffer when the turbo blows. In the middle of a house move and have nowhere to keep a second car while being repaired, good tyres, recent service, lots of bills, owned for 10 years, f/s/h, prefer to sell cheaply to someone for repair than broken for parts, no reasonable offer refused. Ask me for details, I'm based in Aylesbury, UK.

Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John

Hi Dr Daryl, I presume you mean a 2013 XK - keyboard finger trouble! Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring - hope you have many happy journeys. N6 JMX

Hi Graeme, message received and the instructions have been emailed to you. Good luck. N6 JMX

Grampian Transport Museum runs an annual event, How Many Left, which showcases vehicles of which there are under 500 recorded on the DVLA database. The event will run on Sunday 11 May and based on recent years around 130 vehicles will be on show and (subject to weather) around 1000 visitors on the day. In recent years we've also had a "show within the show" featuring 50 years of the VW Golf, 100 years of MG and 70 years of BMC for example. In 2025, we are featuring 100 years of the Jaguar marque and would welcome any Jaguar owners coming along with their cars. Entrants receive free admission to the museum which has an excellent shop and tearoom as well as topical displays which include an ex Eddie Irvine F1 Jaguar. Further information about the museum and the event can be found at gtm.org.uk All at GTM look forward to welcoming you !

Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX

Keep it on a battery conditioner, such as a CTEK. Starting it as you suggest will help to keep everything lubricated, but is unlikely to be enough to keep the battery fully charged, and these cars do need a fully charged battery. If you can move it a bit every time you start it you will avoid flat spotting the tyres. A few feet will do, if you can try to ensure that the wheels stop at a different point each time.