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An XK120, with one owner from new, and costing £180 to buy, has seen sold at auction for £77,000. The owner, a mechanic, has covered over 300,000 miles in the car. The XK120 was the first car that Malcolm Sayer worked on when he joined Jaguar. The 120 was the speed of the car - over 120 mph. He was asked to get the speed up so the car could be used in competitions. He did this by the use of aerodynamics and the car was know known as the C type. - the competition car. He increased the speed that there was never an XK130. It was the motoring press who stared to call it the C type, and it was followed by the D Type, the XK140, and the XK150, known as the E type. The D type won 3 Le Mans 24 hour endurance races , and reached 196 miles per hour on the Mulsanne Strait at Le Mans. The style of following Jaguars sports cars -- look at the radiator grill on the d type - has been repeated in following XK models. Regards, Peter. A 1951 XK120 below.

Hi Went to the Jaguar Breakfast Club today at the JLR Classics Very good morning, some Very rare Jaguar's, Lots of development cars, Just a few I can think of XJS with AJ6 twin turbo and 4 wheel drive, Jaguar X-type R, Some F-types with strange carbon Fibre rear wings, Famous Iron Maiden Drummer refurbished XJ6 and many other great cars, Lots of E-type, D-types and XJ220's Any way took lots of pics and made a slideshow cheers Joe

There's all sorts of other reasons a DPF wont regen, do you know if any have been explored? namely charge air system and Injectors... From memory turbo actuation has to be behaving itself, you have to have sufficient vacuum created from the pump, which has to pass through the boost control solenoid sufficiently to actuate both the VGT and wastegate vacuum pressure cells any leakage in the pipework and/or cells will shut the ECU down from finding a 'required condition' status it needs to attempt regen... resulting in premature filling of DPF... Confirm boost control solenoid is piped up correctly too thats a more than common oversight, ive done it myself. Mechanical boost leakage (for example: hole in the intercooler, non-air tight inlet manifold, leaky boost pipe) can lead to the ECU shutting down regen capability too because the engine THINKS its getting good boost but the DPF is reporting silly pressure values due to a leak. post boost sensor. Boost sensor/MAP Sensor could also be reporting different values although within expected tollerance it could be out (hence it may not throw its own fault because its within tollerance). those values compared to the DPF Values could be shutting the ECU down. MAF sensor could be at fault for the same reason Lastly Injection system has to be upto par and no excessive back leakage from injectors. if you do have a leaky injector it may not show as excess soot out of the tailpipe. Theres been a few injector issues i know about recently both on here and people i know who have the diesels. I'd suggest looking at live injector correction values at idle, it would usually give a good indication if the ECU is dialing back some or overfueling others to compensate for a dicky injector, also take a look at Manifold pressures aswell as 'Desired' against 'Actual' boost figures would instantly show a dodgey/incorrectly installed boost control solenoid. MAP sensors read between 900-1100mbar with engine off this is normal, and you shouldn't be seeing much over 2600-3000mbar i wouldnt have thought (3000mbar is 2bar of boost and thats a lot in a standard trim car engine). hope this helps to separate the forest from the trees a little bit.

I was taught that a shilling was 12 pence in proper money and consequently it took 20 0f them to make a £1. A two bob piece = 10 to £1 And then a shilling was a 5p piece in this modern money. I also was taught the real words of Rule Britannia Rule Britannia Two tanners make a bob, Three make one and six [1/6] And four two bob. That Shropshire fresh air can take some getting used to.

The day arrived on Saturday. Arrived at 9am. We hooked up with Launch ATF machine. All brand new. New sump, rectangular adapter seal, 4 housing sleeves, plug sleeve, new bolts. 16 litres of Lifeguard 6. (a couple of extra just in case) Bit fiddly getting the lines hooked up to the oil cooler pipes. Added the Launch flush cleaner. Ran it through the gears for 10 minutes. Drained 4 litres through the Launch. Torx screws were such a pain. 3 had to be forced out due to the heads stripping. He broke 2 torx pieces! But all out eventually. New ones have much bigger torx heads! Dropped the sum to drain the other litre. Loosened some of the screws on the unit, another litre or 2 must have drained from that too. Then we started with the output seal. removed the driveshaft ****** etc. Popped out the rear seal and this is where it went wrong. Wrong size seal!!!! So drove away in the courtesy car. New seal being delivered tomorrow! He'll drop the mechantronic unit today and replace the rectangular seal, plug sleeve, 4 housing sleeves and sump. once the output seal arrived he'll replace that then begin with the full exchange of the oil tomorrow.

Hi all, As an S-Type owner, I normally post of this forum, but thought it best to post pics and details of a birthday treat I allowed myself on the Classics forum, which I link to here. Have a read if you can, she was a very pretty car and an absolute privilege to pilot for the day . All the best, Russ

Just wanted to express my sadness at the passing of one of the greatest minds this country has ever produced. I've had the honour to speak with Professor Hawking on several occasions and have attended many of his lectures. This man had the extraordinary ability to take the most complex of of scientific and philosophical concepts and make them understandable for people like me. I doubt we shall ever see his like again.

I think that it can't be too long before an S-Type owner switches on the ignition and gets the horrific shock of seeing multiple failures all being reported at once. The problem is that the electronics in our cars is susceptible to firmware corruption at low voltages and as a result the car will try to "fail safe" by shutting down various systems when it detects a low voltage state. In days gone by, you'd get a warning of impending battery failure because the lights would go dim and the starter motor would make the instantly recognizable churning noise. Not so with our cars though. The first indication is when you get the heart-stopping song and dance routine on the instrument panel. Following advice, I adopted the following solution and offer it here as food for thought. I tend to put my car's battery on trickle charge once a week overnight. Since I started doing so, I've never suffered the failure routine again. Being of a generally lazy disposition though, it had to be easy I wanted a trickle charger that would condition the battery and could remain connected without any possibility of damaging the battery or associated electronics in the car. I chose a CTEK trickle charger following advice and a fair bit of research (I HATE to spend money and not get the best value). CTEK's web site Further, I wasn't keen on lifting the boot floor and messing with crocodile clips so I went for their panel socket which is a small panel fitted in the boot lining. It has a three colour flashing LED system to indicate battery condition. I've found this to be somewhat pessimistic but, rather that than the other way round. Here is a Link showing what I did with my setup. I have the luck to be able to use this in a nice warm dry garage but I know of several who just plug the output lead of the CTEK in and close the boot lid outside their house and there seems to be no problem with water getting in to the boot. No. I don't work for CTEK I'm sure there are some equally good trickle chargers made by other manufacturers but this works for me.

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brilliant thanks raistlin👍👍👍😃

Hi Alan from Devon MOH (my other half) and I don't hold to be XJS experts, but we do own a '92 4.0 Phase One facelift, as per your dad's, alongside our X150 XK and S-type. It seems that the parts you are talking about are all available from SNG Barratt, whose website is very user friendly and well illustrated. 1. anti-roll bar link complete C42907 £67.79 (also available as repro part C42907* £30.00 ) (all prices inclusive of VAT) The bushes are available separately C42907/1 @ £5.40 each but then you have to pay labour to remove old bushes and fit new 2. Suspension arm pin/bush, front upper N/S Sounds like the Slipflex bush CAC9295 £32.53 (repro part CAC9295* £8.81) Probably best to also renew washer C29975 £14.16 (repro part C29975* £5.28) All the above are showing as available; note we don't have any connection with Barratts, other than as customers who live quite close by. Hope this helps. By the way, as you hail from Devon, is it true that "the train don't stop Camborne Wednesday?!) Good luck and happy growling

Hi Andy, I have the same but 2008 face lift. For me the power of the standard engine is perfectly ok for me and dont really see the need for extra power. Also you should probably think about what mileage your car has done and should you be putting more stress on it and how will it effect your insurance. Happy driving. Rod

Hi As long as the first part is the same it will be ok, the last two letters are usually the version the higher the letter the newer it is, "A" been older and "F" been newer some may need programing, if its not from a similar spec car cheers Joe

Morning All, I wanted to share my experience as others may find it useful. I have been a proud driver of an XF Sportbrake since October and have been extremely happy since, that said, this is my first turbo diesel and I felt that the performance wasn't quite as good as it could be. My key concern was a dead spot, when coasting up to a junction, then accelerating, there was a rather exaggerated dead spot before taking off like a rocket and the calm before the storm when overtaking other vehicles. After some research and a great deal of milling it over I decided that these issues were fixable, although I was a little hesitant as I didn't really want to mess with my pride and joy but I found "Expert Tuning" in the discount section of the premium members so decided to forge ahead. Paul was very amenable and I was soon booked in for the job, I rolled up to his lovely house to find both an XK and an XJ8 sitting on his drive, I soon established that these were indeed his and not customer cars, so know I was in good hands. The job took about 2 hours with plenty of chit chat about Jags and other interesting things, a quick test drive after and off I went. To be honest, at first I was a little underwhelmed with the changes, whilst there was more oomph the differences were marginal so I began to ponder whether it was worth the outlay, what I had forgotten is that on these modern Jags the system learns and adapts. 3 days later after a weekend on mental seesawing I got in the Jag to drive to work, oh my, whats going here then! The Jag had transformed over night, like magical fairies had visited in the night. I am a bit of an audiophile, so let me liken it to a good speaker, the low end is fuller and more immediate, the mid range is more detailed, powerful and refined and the top end is lively without being overly harsh. I can't say that the dead spots have vanished, that's probably impossible but they are much smaller and on the other side of the spot the power delivery is much more progressive. The Jag pulls stronger and smoother through the entire range and I often don't realize just how much speed I have picked up in a short time. Add onto this that it moves through the gears at a lower rev count than previous whilst at the same time pushing forward confidently. So, in summary, I am extremely happy with the changes, economy, BHP & torque all significantly improved providing a more confident, comfortable diving experience. Dom

Hi David, and welcome to the club. Having a similar s type to yours I have had a look inside the engine compartment and decided that it it needs an expert. If is has been serviced regularly and good garage will note things like that. My car had a new engine while in Jaguar ownership at 21k miles so it will no need a cambelt change until next year. Regards, Peter.

Had a brilliant drive today, still grinning like a Cheshire cat! Russ68 will know where I have been, but had a drive around the Island. Ryde to Newport over the Downs, up the Middle Road to Yarmouth, across to Alum bay then down to Freshwater bay and the Military road to Blackgang, then through Godshill, Merstone and back over the Downs to Sandown, then Bembridge, St. Helens and back to Ryde..The S type performed as faultlessly as ever and was in "sport" mode for the drive. Still grinning, still loving the car, still can't think of anything I would rather be driving!

hi sometimes at the discretion of the mot person, but it wants fixing really, coming from a biker as well its no fun when there oil on the road but if its not a bad leak, give it a good wipe down before you take it and they usually pass, also with the water leak, need to get it fixed as usually they let go big style with water every where and depending on the temperature when it lets go, can damage heads and gaskets if you know where the water leak is and your just waiting till the mot to see how it goes, use some radweld, just pour it in the expansion tank and will fix small leaks, I had to do it once while we were on holiday and the radiator sprung a small leak, cured it for a few weeks till i got the radiator replaced if it were my car and the car body work is sound, mainly like the sills and arches, I'd keep it, there generally quite reliable, but if your thinking of selling, once its got that mot its the best time to sell, but you will struggle to find a descent one with less than 50k , new rules also are for diesels and won't effect petrol cars, you might find it will go up in value due to this. cheers Joe

Hi Yes the above post is correct. I work for jaguar. the xf xe are made at castle Bromwich alongside the xj and f type. The f pace is made at Solihull land rover plant The new I pace and e pace are being made in Europe.

Wow Russ what a treat indeed... and a great Happy Birthday to yourself. Thanks for sharing the link too. I may have a look at that. Rgds Stuart

And she really looks fantastic black really suits that model 100%

Welcome to the Club, Sir Timothy. The sportbrake is a nice car - as well as being a luc=xury car it is also a very useful on -- it will fit two sets of golf clubs in the back plus a picnic barbecue! Enjoy! Regards, Peter.

Hi Jennifer, and welcome to the Club. The 2.2 engine is quite a good engine, and was also used in the X Type and is powerful enough unless you want to race it. Parking? You will have parking sensors to assist, and remember any Lady from Lancashire can park a tank! My wife used to love driving my Rover Sterling 825 which is just as long. You will enjoy the Jaguar experience. Regards, Peter.

There are plenty of good battery around. Bosch is well recommended. My local Auto Accessory shop got me the correct battery for the car within an hour. The brand I have is a Platinum which also gets some very good reports. Regards, Peter.

Hi Mark Sounds like a dead battery to me? do you have access to a set of jump leads? if so, you could connect to your battery, from a good battery, and then see if you get your dash lights back... Just a thought Regards Steve

The Princess had her transmission sump, filter and fluid replaced today and it certainly was worth the time and effort. She has done in excess of 135 000 miles but, as far as I was concerned, the transmission was faultless apart from occasionally seeming to slip, or take a while to match engine speed. Once or twice I've had the "gearbox fault" caption as well, when accelerating hard when the car was cold. Time will tell but I'm confident that has been sorted out. After the change, there is no longer any apparent slipping and, one thing which I was concerned about, which was the time delay between flooring the throttle from low speed and feeling the kick in the back, which I had assumed was down to the age of the engine, has now completely disappeared :D Clearly, the engine wasn't at fault but rather it was an insidious symptom of the transmission. 4.5 litres of black, burnt treacle was drained, and 6.75 litres of new fluid was added, along with a brand new sump and filter and gasket. There was no indication of leakage of transmission fluid but the original sump pan was certainly warped. The sump pan, fluid, filter & gasket set cost me £120 from a fleabay dealer and my mechanic charged me £40 to do the job, including checking the fluid level in the approved manner. Happy bunny :D I am now, even more than previously, sceptical of the "filled for life" philosophy, having seen how little fluid was recovered and the state of it. Instantaneous response is nice as well I am also expecting better fuel economy now that the engine doesn't over-rev but how much, or indeed, whether it will be measurable, remains to be seen.