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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .3 points
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Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.2 points
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Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John2 points
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Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C2 points
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Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]2 points
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Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!2 points
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Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!2 points
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Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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Check the internal contacts are properly connecting within the key fob, they are a bit fragile and easily bent away from the contact face. N6 JMX1 point
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Finally solved map upgrade issues. Jaguar where excellent 🏆Lloyds jaguar Houghton le spring did themselves proud with a little backwards and forward. Dropped of car 8 courtesy car, washed, hoovered returned by 4 . TCU &IMC update. Now my car is talking and I can update maps and live coverage. Cost was bearable, experience sometimes frustrating but a positive outcome1 point
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Hi Kevin, it would be helpful if you gave a bit more information about the diff issue to allow folks to assess what type of service / assistance you might need. From memory, there was an episode of "Salvage Hunters Classic Cars" with Paul Cowland taking a differential to a specialist who worked from his garden shed in the Northeast of England. This guy completely rebuilt the diff - is that the level of service you are seeking? N6 JMX1 point
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Haha I think I lost mine too! I think anything over £20,000 I would be open to discuss1 point
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Hi I would only use ZF lifeguard 6, because its never a good idea mixing oils. would only buy genuine ZF aswell, aftermarket filters allways seem to leak. Genuine kit comes with oil, filter, new pins with larger heads and new mecha sleeve, which were prone to leaking on the electric connector. when you change the oil, only about 6 litres drains out of the box, about 4 to 5 litres stays in the torque converter. never known any body have any issues with using zf lifeguard 6, but a lot of people who use a different brand seem to get problems also, when changing the oil, ideally you should clear the gearbox adaptations, so the gearbox learns how to shift again and you get smoother shift, sometimes putting fresh, slightly thicker oil in, can make the gear changes quite harsh, also reseting the adaptations can only be done with software like Jaguar ids/sdd and some icarsofts, disconnecting the battery does nothing. Adaptation reset is allways done if the service is done at jaguar. also if your getting harsh shifts, if the gearbox has never been updated, software update can cure this, last update was 2009, my car was a 2004 and had its original 2004 software, updating mine cured the surging/hunting when it was cold at around 30 to 40 mph. cheers Joe1 point
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Found this, hope it helps; To remove the 2007 Jaguar S-Type front grille, you need to unlatch the hood, then locate and remove two nuts/bolts at the top rear of the grille assembly. After removing the fasteners, you must unclip the plastic tabs that project from the rear of the grille frame by gently easing them outwards. With the nuts, bolts, and tabs disengaged, the entire grille can be removed from the car1 point
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How many times have you heard the story of how someone came to be enthralled by Jaguar? Having a lift to school in the back of my friend's dad's Jaguar is a typical soundbite but I don't see any of today's schoolboys wanting a Jaguar in 30 years time because he got a lift in an EV!!!!! Jaguars have soul and that comes as much from the noise it makes to the way it holds you in the seat. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi this is my first Jaguar, so it have been quite a learning curve. It is so much fun to drive. I found my XJ40 sitting in a luxury car dealership with no registration and a ABS problem. It was a real nice locking car and my wife loved it so I bought it site unseen and had it delivered. When checking the service book I found that it had only done 2000k in the last 10 years and it was running poorly, a couple of bottles of injector cleaner, full oil change and service saw it right. As ABS was not mandatory down here until 2003 and being a old circuit racer I had it removed, the car still stops on a dime. I registered the car on historic plates which where I am gives me 60 driving days a year . Since then I have replaced the rear suspension and sway bar bushes and 2 oil pressure senders in 14 months ( they are just so hard to get to). The 3rd one will be a after market universal one as the one we can get down here seem to be rubbish. I'm not completely sure if it will work but the other ones cost $100 au plus so I will give it a try.1 point
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The X260 XF diesel (2015 on) uses either the 2.0 ingenium engine or the 3.0 V6, whereas the earlier X250 model (up to 2015) uses either the 2.2 or 3.0 V6 diesel engine. The 2.0 ingenium engine doesn't have a brilliant reputation for reliability unfortunately. General opinion is that the X260 also had lower quality interior materials, until the final facelift in late 2019, when it got the interior upgrade that it deserved. Personally, I would look for one of the last X250 3.0 V6 S Portfolio models, very well specced and great interior quality.1 point
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Welcome aboard Jim, and I hope you have many happy miles in your XKR Convertible - Zero. As you will note if you have already been trawling in this section of the Forum, there is a lot of knowledge and a willingness to share this with fellow Enthusiasts. If you have already suffered from the dreaded tin worm on your unfortunate XJ, then I am assuming that you had the underside of Zero fully checked out ahead of purchase. The main body may be aluminium, but that doesn't guarantee no corrosion, just a different version, but the underside has steel subframes that can get into a really poor state very quickly. This is especially the case if the car has been used year round and seen salted roads or, strangely enough, if the car has spent some of its life living by the seaside. Let's see a few photos when you can. N6 JMX1 point
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The onus is on them to carry out the work you are paying them for with an appropriate level of skill and professionalism. I would first ask to speak to the dealer principal / head of business, if you don't have any success, trading standards / consult a solicitor.1 point
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And that is why the insurance company have said it is a total loss. Remember, the selling price includes the sellers profit, your insurance company will not want to pay anything to the sellers profit margin.1 point
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Hi James, for the F-Pace SVR model, you are possibly best to look at the Jaguar Approved website, where there are currently 15 F-Pace SVR listed for sale around the country. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe1 point
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Hi Liam, there is a company in Byfleet, Surrey, called Cartronics who do lots of upgrade kit for modern cars, including Apple CarPlay for various Jaguars. The website link is below, or you could simply put "Cartronics" into your search engine if you don't like clicking on links. I had some discussions with them in 2024, they know what they are doing, but it is not a cheap modification. Jaguar Media & Sound Upgrades N6 JMX1 point
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So basically the issue is that it is too high of a risk and many dealers don't even want to do it anymore. The guy that is GURU at this told me that he just changes the IMC with latest SW as it costs less and less risk is involved. So my suggestion is to be on a hunt for a scrapyard IMC and change it, programm it via SDD if it is 2016-2017 model or pathfinder if it is a later model.1 point
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Thanks Geoff, That's what I figured also I won't have the hassle of having to book it in to 2 different garages & if the fault returns who do you go to! Rather bizarrely I went out in the car yesterday & the fault message on the dash cleared itself along with the ABS light, when I got home I switched the engine off, left it for a while re started it & the message returned so have still decided to have the work done just to be on the safe side1 point

