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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

Here is the electrical manual for your car, figure 05.1 refers. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/JaguarXType/2007XTypeElectrical.pdf

who knows...but having plenty if independent jag indy garages here in the UK we are good...not so sure in other countries. you are worried about resale value? jags are for life man 😉

Look for Swallows Jaguar Specialist right on your doorstep, Bristol Road, Rooksbridge, see link below. Swallows Jaguar Specialist | Servicing, Performance & Motorsport for JLR Fantastic folk who deliver a service that is second to none. Note I have no connection to them. N6 JMX

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. On to the next step, thanks again

Maintenance purposes and yes all were down

Buahahahaha

These arms are common wear parts on the XF

Take them off and spray them with a rattle can. Use a trim removal tool to gently prise the fake vents off. They are held on with about 5 press trim clips

👍

Only problem is, if the adjust are original, buy the time it get to you in the post, ods are they will be broke aswell.

Hi, You wont get bored of it, had mine nearly 10 years and its been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. its been well looked after though, but it always manages to put a big smile on my face. The two best mods are the stainless exhaust, make the car's supercharged V8 sound like it should, great burble and the Jagdroid stereo, bringing the stereo up to modern times, with android 13 and all the features of a modern phone in the car, with the OE Jaguar look.

Stop going to that "PUB"

Have owned two of these X-Types and sort of understand. They were a bit of a compromise but their poor reviews at the time were genuinely unfounded. Yes, it comes from a time when Ford owned Jaguar and were desperately trying to make the company profitable. So does everyone's much hated S-Type where faster or rarer versions are getting some love back Yes, the floopan, engine and switchgear was done by ford but please remember it still used original Jag interiors and trim Am selling or scrapping mine because it's an old, poorly maintained one but does have a a few points going for it. Good, old Frod Dynatic Engine and the CD player works, but only on Tuesdays. PM me fore it has to go to the great Jag Dealer in the Sky I also need the space as my little Daimler 250 might be coming back soon Can honestly say I love them. Not a great idea from Jaguar but served as my intro to the world of. As the competitor to the BMW 3 series it failed, as a cheap old wreck that nobody loves it still makes sense if you can afford the repair bills on an old car

Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Batteries" tab, enter your registration number and post code, then press search. The website does all the work for you and then you can do a search for the best price for the battery you select - do not have to purchase from Kwik Fit. Note that the most important attribute to your selected replacement should be dimensions. It MUST fit into the battery tray and be held securely in place, it would be an MoT failure if not secured. N6 JMX

Hi, I’ve had my first Jag an XF for 16 months now and it’s been great. You can see some of my photos in the gallery. Enjoy your Jag. All the best Ian

Have you checked the fuses? Sounds like one fuse should control all of the missing functions. N6 JMX

Hi to all my fellow Jag owners. My journey to Jag ownership has not gone as I planned and started last year when I decided to act my age and sell my 350z because it wasn't getting used enough to warrant it and wanted to go old school with something really basic like an Austin 8 or similar. Then the plan was to end nearly 30 years of Range rover ownership by swapping my L320 sport for a F pace. This is where it all went off on a tangent. While watching Bangers n cash the wife took fancy to an E type which was out of budget but got me thinking you see where this is heading. XK8's are now the focus but finding a rust free example for the budget wasn't happening so up the budget till we hitting X150 territory and after weeks of searching and hundreds of miles I became the owner of a 2009 5 litre XK. To say I'm happy is an understatement what an awesome car just can't wait for the weather to improve so I can get some serious miles in it but what about the plan of an F pace well the rangee has a buyer lined up and the F pace should be here next week but I can't help the feeling I might have bit to much off but only time will tell. Pete.

compared to the traditional Jaguar logo, they look very amateur a bit like a kids drawing contest work

Hi Trevor, I believe the production ceased on the 31st of October 2024, for all / any new vehicles in the UK as the F-Pace was axed from the line-up, following the demise of the XE, the XF and the F-Type earlier in the summer. The E-Pace and the I-Pace, previously assembled at Magna Steyr in Austria, have also ceased being built for the UK market - although still being produced for other global markets for the time being. The company claims that they did not make any money on these deleted models, so it's not an issue for them. Must be some business model that can support no sales for at least the next 14 months - new "all electric" production sales begin in 2026. Hopefully we are not about to enter the arena of enjoying our classic cars where the manufacturer has gone from the world of vehicle production, like Triumph, Austin, Rover, etc. Suppose we will now just have to imagine (or reimagine) what it's like to enter a showroom and pour over a new Jaguar! N6 JMX

Just for info, after discussion with JLR they agreed the car was UK built then exported to Japan. a helpful chap then sent me the original build specification for the car Result!

Hi John, a good battery is essential to the electronic well-being of these cars, so a changing of the battery for what may turn out to be spurious indications on the dash is a good first step, especially when you are unsure of the age of the battery. The Yuasa is a great battery, just be sure to get the version that fits and suits your car. By that I mean ensure the dimensions are correct to fit in the battery tray / box, and that the power (Ah) is of the correct rating. Once you have the new battery in place, you may find the fault has cleared, but if not, then reading any stored codes should be the next step. A friendly local workshop with the correct tools should be able to help. This may through light on the follow-up steps, perhaps a faulty ABS sensor, but get any codes before changing other parts. N6 JMX

Found a thread from 2006 on this subject and that time it was a weak battery. I let the car sit for some time once before and that time the air bag light came on until it had been driven for some time. This time the car has not been sitting too long but has only seen short trips around town. So I'm guessing it is a weak battery.

With the potential damage to the old girl, my head say it is probably sensible to move on 😞 A quick look on Autotrader and other sites suggest a like for like replacement at between £2k and 12k depending on mileage and condition. Just a guess but you are almost certainly looking at north of £5k for a rebuild. However if you swap it, you are then buying an unknown and he has already invested heavily in the car so sorting the engine may be the best route. Bottom line is how much is it worth to him and can he afford the repairs? If he can I would start looking at an engine rebuild (I rescued a 2003 X-Type with 26k miles from this site for fun - and £250 and spent around £2k on sorting it (body and sills) but now have a car which I will keep as long as I can. Essentially one for the heart v head v wallet to sort 🙂 A quick search through Google suggests the garage the car is already at is probably as good as any in the area so I would be inclined to be guided by them. Good Luck, and keeping my fingers crossed you decide to "pay the vet bill" for the old cat...

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery. I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference. It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:- Battery reset.pdf

There's usually a filter on the pump inlet which is where the pump fits into the reservoir. Not all cars have it so yours may not or perhaps you haven't pulled the pump out yet? Either way if your drivers side jet only dribbles but the passenger one is fine, the problem is likely to be a blocked jet, usually you can clear it with a needle but i often remove the jets and soak them in a strong solution of vinegar and boiling water - an aerosol cap is usually big enough to do it, drop the jet in and cover it in vinegar then top up with boiling water to about half full. Leave it for a while (overnight if you can) then remove, rinse in clean water and refit. Usually unblocks them. When i first got my Honda, the rear washer jet didn't work, that was blocked and i could see gunge in the pipework so fitted a small filter in-line. Soon after the fronts blocked up, i renewed them and added the same type of filter : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234980007066 For under £4, it saves a lot of grief and if it blocks, it can be removed, stripped and cleaned and rebuilt and refitted. 😉 😄

R18 is ok for a NA Rob though it won’t fit on a XKR due to the bigger callipers.😊

Thanks Geoff, That's what I figured also I won't have the hassle of having to book it in to 2 different garages & if the fault returns who do you go to! Rather bizarrely I went out in the car yesterday & the fault message on the dash cleared itself along with the ABS light, when I got home I switched the engine off, left it for a while re started it & the message returned so have still decided to have the work done just to be on the safe side