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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hello Jim, Thanks for your Bagworld information , I will give them a buzz. Regards richard

Hi wow 30 years really looking forward to going to shows I do attend lots locally but a couple further afield will now be easy to get to

Hi everyone. My name is Paul and I am from Ballymena in Northern Ireland. I recently purchased my first ever Jaguar (after 44 years of driving). Over the years I have owned mostly BMW's, a couple of Audi's and one Mercedes. I was looking to try Jaguar for a change and started searching for an XF Sportbrake 3.0D v6 to replace my BMW 330D Touring, but then discovered I could get an XJ for a similar price! Last October I spotted a 10 year old XJL with low mileage and immaculate condition in Sapphire Blue (I'm told it was a wedding car in a previous life). I fell in love with it as soon as I first drove it - so now it's mine! It has totally changed my driving style. With the Beemer, I would jump in and set off everywhere at a sprint in Sport mode - but now I cruise and glide through life in Comfort mode. It has done wonders for my stress levels and my blood pressure and makes me want to drive off towards the horizon and tour the world in it 🙂 I was widowed a few years ago and remarried last year. My new wife cannot fly for medical reasons - so we are looking to plan some road trips across Europe in years to come (DV). Let me know if you have any recommendations for stunningly scenic routes to try. I'm looking forward to embracing the Jaguar ownership experience and following this forum for general information, advice on servicing and upgrades. oh - and Happy New Year to all of you for 2026. Kind Regards, Paul. Jaguar XJL 3.0D V6 Portfolio (May 2015) [X351 In Sapphire Blue with optional Rear Seat Entertainment]

Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.

A belated thanks for this advice which I have taken, but I wish I could find some reccomended baggage for use in the F type boot. Even my jacket has to go in there when Im driving. Whilst I really enjoy my F for driving, surprisingly the Volvo C 70 is more nimble for town use and ease of access. Obviously need to run them in tandem so no SORN just yet !.

Hi John, Apologies for the delayed response and thanks for getting back to me. I've ordered a used stalk from ebay and should get it before New Year. It was a good price, so if it solves the problem I'll let you know and it will save a lot of aggravation down the line. Have a Happy Christmas and New Year and I'll be in touch to let you know the outcome. Thanks again, Ted

I use the iCarSoft scanner and have to say in all the many scan tools I have owned over the years for professional garage use, now I am retired from the trade I bought an iCarSoft and quite honestly don't need any other scanner in the future. It is fully updatable and quick and intuitive to use (even for a beginner) but what is most important to me is the system reset and programming features it has built in - it is much more than a code reader for sure. I got the ten manufacturers setup which only costs a few more pounds than the one manufacturer licence. Handy if you wish to scan family or friends cars.

Hi Kevin, it would be helpful if you gave a bit more information about the diff issue to allow folks to assess what type of service / assistance you might need. From memory, there was an episode of "Salvage Hunters Classic Cars" with Paul Cowland taking a differential to a specialist who worked from his garden shed in the Northeast of England. This guy completely rebuilt the diff - is that the level of service you are seeking? N6 JMX

Did you renew the fuel filter as well?

HI all just a quick message from me joining again, had 07 s type, now 18, xf estate.

Hi everyone, I just bought a 2003 SWB super v8 and it’s a fantastic car. It has jagdroid installed, although I’m unsure if that has anything to do with the issue I’m facing. The tvs in the headrests are displaying “video signal is not correct” when I’m trying to play a dvd. I have a disc inserted- i think there’s a remote I’m missing that would perhaps solve this issue. Please could anyone advise? My 7-year old is very excited to watch frozen on the way to Wales tomorrow and I don’t want her to be disappointed. I went on a 4 straight hour journey to and from wales yesterday just to check it was running well at around 75 mph the whole way without stopping. I did burn a little oil, maybe 250ml but I think that’s probably to be expected? Thanks all.

Good call, check the simple and easy fix stuff first. The breather would be an obvious thought. N6 JMX

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

XK8 Key Fobs – A Repair, Sort Of……. Some thoughts, some ramblings, some ideas and one “sort of” solution about the LJA 2610BA XK8 4 Button Key Fob. I’m sure you all know the scenario. You walk up to the car and press the ‘Unlock’ Button and hey presto, nothing happens. You dance around the car, often hopping on one leg, whilst under your breath reciting ‘Abra Cadabra’ ( or some other words which I can’t possibly repeat here ) pressing and holding the button, waving it around the roof and ‘C’ pillars hoping that waving a virtual magic wand cunningly disguised as a Key Fob will actually make it work. The final incantation of ‘Open Sesame ‘ doesn’t work either at which point you give up and return indoors for a stiff drink ( strong coffee, what do you think I meant ? ) whilst you change the batteries for the second time in a week convincing yourself that the recently replaced batteries must have been faulty. Of course they aren’t and you are no further forward other than needing to visit the loo for a comfort break after supping even more coffee. I know that you could have opened the door with the key and listened to the countdown of the Alarm about to unleash all hell on me and the rest of the neighbourhood if I fail to get the key in the ignition in time to prevent this happening or even if I do manage to do this in time the Alarm fails to disarm and then both the Alarm and myself enter panic mode, I have a ( irrational ? ) fear of this, perhaps I’m not alone in this or is it just me that’s paranoid ? Answers to me on a free voucher for the local psychiatrist. The problem is of course wear on the contact pads of the Rubber Buttons, the solution is to replace the Rubber Pad. I’m talking about the four button one, LJA 2610BA and other similar variants, and here lies the rub. Not that many years ago this type of Fob Case complete with new Rubber Pad were readily available on line for about a fiver, now they all seem to made of that wonderful and oft used classic car material called ‘Unobtanium.’ Over the last few years I have travelled the world, virtually of course, and have found absolutely zero, none, zilch, of these available anywhere so what next ? POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS Repair Services. There are plenty of people out there offering repair/refurbishment of your existing Fobs and I assume that this includes repair of the electronics AND replacement of the Rubber Pads and Case. If so where do they obtain these parts ? These services are priced anywhere from £30 to £200, what the difference in prices may indicate I have no idea, but if all you need is the Rubber Pad even the cheapest is a bit steep. Even so if one of these guys are prepared to sell me just the Rubber Pad I may be prepared to pay over the odds to obtain a couple of spares. I haven’t asked any of them so have no idea if any of these repair services would be prepared to do a deal. The other thing I, probably unnecessarily, worry about using a repair service is the reprogramming of the repaired unit. Everyone seems to think that the reprogramming is a simple task that takes just a few minutes of flashing the lights in sequence and this may well be so, but at this point my paranoia rears it’s head again……. Graphite Buttons Graphite buttons are cheap and readily available. The idea is that you get the right size buttons and then glue them over the worn buttons on your Rubber Pads with some contact adhesive and then the job is done. My worry here is that this may be a one shot only job. If the buttons either don’t stick very well or don’t work for some reason then that’s the end, the contact adhesive will have probably ruined whatever was left of the functionality of your existing buttons, however poor they were they are now a darned sight worse. Consequently I haven’t tried this. Modifying Different Rubber Pads I thought I may have cracked it with this idea. I bought a 5 Button Rubber Button Pad for Jaguar X S F TYPE XJ XK XF XKR remote smart key. It looked like with a bit of judicial trimming and some fettling it would fit inside my Fob and the key markings and spacing looked pretty much the same, as indeed they are. Unfortunately the finger pad part of the buttons do not protrude through the Fob, they are far too shallow. You could extended the finger pads by gluing some rubber or something similar on top of them but you would lose the markings and I think even then the contact part of the buttons would be far too long so constantly touching the contacts and permanently activating the electronics, this would probably confuse the car as much as me and as for battery life….. I think this idea could work if we could discover which type of Rubber Pad could be modified, however I have no clue as where to start on this. My Solution The only solution I can offer right now is using some electrically conductive paint on the contacts of the buttons on the Rubber Pad. The stuff I used is in the pic, other similar products are available and all are easily and cheaply obtainable from well known on line retailers. It’s easy to use. Remove the Rubber Pad from the Fob and clean the contact part of the buttons with Isopropyl Wipes or liquid IPA or similar. Apply a small amount of the “ paint “ to each of the contact buttons and let it dry, make sure it’s totally dry before putting it all back together. I know that you’ll be eager to try and see if it works but be patient ! Whilst you are in the Fob carefully clean the gold contact pads of the PCB, including the battery area, with the IPA stuff or Contact Cleaner, make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling it all with new batteries. This repair worked wonderfully on mine, it was like having a brand new Fob, no more dancing around the car like a loony and no more arcane incantations. BUT. ( Why is there always a BUT ? ) This repair worked perfectly for five months and then total failure, not one button worked. Don’t panic, a few minutes work repeating the above procedure followed by a few hours waiting for paint to dry and all is good again. So, far from a real solution or ideal but at least some sort of a cure and if you have to repeat it every few months it’s no big deal. If you’ve read this far through these ramblings you probably have an interest in this problem, if so I’d be happy to hear your thoughts and ideas, Thanks, Nige.

Boo hiss 😁

Hi Robert, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring - enjoy. N6 JMX

Glad to hear you finally got it done Cameron, yours was much more frilly than mine though! 😮 Hopefully it should stay solid for several (or more) years to come now!

I think this is what you want. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276758430601

Hi I'm new to the club and the xf is the first jaguar I've owned I'm open to any help and advice thanks

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery. I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference. It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:- Battery reset.pdf