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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

Hi As already said above, the adaptation reset can be done with Jaguar ids/sdd software or with icarsoft LR V2 or V3 Jaguar dealer wont do these any more will have to be a Jaguar indy cheers Joe

Welcome to the forum Tommy, enjoy.😊

How many times have you heard the story of how someone came to be enthralled by Jaguar? Having a lift to school in the back of my friend's dad's Jaguar is a typical soundbite but I don't see any of today's schoolboys wanting a Jaguar in 30 years time because he got a lift in an EV!!!!! Jaguars have soul and that comes as much from the noise it makes to the way it holds you in the seat. N6 JMX

Hi Roy, Well,I’m 69 and now on my second XF. First was an X250 3.0S portfolio (2011). Current one is an X260 3.0 S, loaded with options. To choose between the two is a bit like choosing between your children! First had a better, but dated interior compared to 5e current one. But the current one is loaded with toys and is much, much more fun to drive. Haven’t tried a non sport version of either, so sorry, can’t comment on whether they’re worth it, but if you want performance and handling but with a supple ride, neither will disappoint. so…. What colour are you going to choose??? Good hunting, and enjoy! cheers, Jon

Thanks for the comment. You are absolutely correct. That's why I bought an aluminium-bodied car this time. I have had a varied career, but spent thirty years in the motor industry building cars. I have always had the same intention; it's only now I can afford to buy what I wanted all along. I was in senior management, but not that senior that I could affect what we made. And I am an engineer and know that aluminium is not completely the answer but it is getting nearer. Jim My other cars are a Suzuki Swift Sports (just a day-to-day car but fun) and a track car a fibreglass-bodied, but properly chassisied Porsche 550 Spyder copy, with an Alfa flat four Engine. My general nickname is Spyderromeo

maybe there's air lock in te system?

Finally i got a Jaguar XE 25t 2019 with 45000 miles I found that the ingenium diesel has a lot of issues (with more critical the tensioners and the timing chain) and the same engine in petrol is better

hello fellow Jagggg owners! My name is Daz and i have just got me a XF in black. Very excited to meet everyone with there cars too. i have taken a pic of my new wheels and put on here. Please let me kniw if you like it? Thank you, Daz

Bit rude jizman

completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models

Personally I replaced my 2013 2,2 XF Sportbrake with an MB GLC 220D as the aircon would have cost around £2000 to fix (£30 TX valve, rest for labour!). I would have preferred to go for the newer XF sportbrake but was put off by the Ingenium engines which have a woeful reputation. The I pace does appeal to me, particularly if you are not bothered by depreciation as they are now available for a fraction of the "new" price although I am still nervous about EV battery longevity and "range anxiety".

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

Doubt he still considers it 3y later...either got what he wanted or gave up by now🤣

Psst, get an XF! 🤣🤣🤣 Welcome to the forum 👍

Hi Craig, welcome to the Forum. Appreciate that Ardnamurchan is probably a long way from anywhere (I am in Banchory in Aberdeenshire so know the feeling) but there is a Jaguar Gathering - The Scottish Jaguar Enthusiasts' Day - being held at the Riverside Museum in Glasgow on Saturday the 28th of June 2025. Over 100 Jaguars and their owners on the esplanade of the Riverside Museum from all over Scotland and further afield - even have some coming from "down south". There's more information further down the Forum pages under "Events", but you can also send me a PM with your email address and I can provide more information. N6 JMX

Wooeehey

Hi James, for the F-Pace SVR model, you are possibly best to look at the Jaguar Approved website, where there are currently 15 F-Pace SVR listed for sale around the country. N6 JMX

Simon here proud owner oh my first Jaguar. A mint 2012 XF 3.0d Portfolio with just 37k on the clock. It an ex Jaguar press car. Expect many dumb question to follow !

woodchuck ---another name for Groundhog ???

Thanks, everybody, for your input. Battery was checked, tested and replaced a couple of years ago - sounds like it's time to check it again! Goes into garage tomorrow - watch this space.

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

hello everyone, just got my first XKR, 2011 soft top. love the car. I have had 11 previous Jaguars, including 5 f types, 3 f paces, i E pace and a XJS. approaching retirement so bought myself something to keep me occupied.

Hi Karl, that is strange. Have you managed to get a code reader to see if there are any stored codes held in the "brain"? Incidentally, when you disconnect the battery, touch the negative cable to the positive terminal / cable which will discharge any residual capacitance in the system. I can't understand why the multiple disconnect and reconnect of the battery ultimately encourages it to start. In terms of the not starting, even a modern car only needs 3 things to start, air, fuel and a spark. Assuming you have a decent spark as you indicate it runs okay once started, it might be time to look at the fuel supply. Additionally, air leaks on the inlet side can create a problem - try a smoke test to see if there are any leaks. Good luck. N6 JMX

Hi There a lever inside the heandlight that you can flick and its alters the headlight pattern, no need to swap them but this is only possible on the HID headlights if you have halogen ones, then I think you would have to use the stick on bean benders or swap the lights, halogen ones are not interchangeable with HID ones as the wiring is different. Cheers Joe

Hi Paul -- Welcome to the club plenty to see and talk about here ?? - And that XF you have looks really good - Frank

Hi Mark, Thank you. Since posting I recently had one of my cars paint and interior detailed, wheels refurbed and coating added. It looks great. I do try my self to keep them looking presentable but the XJ I only bought last year really need a lot of time spent on it, which I have not had. I am really pleased with the results. Best Regards, Julie.