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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .3 points
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Hi everyone. My name is Paul and I am from Ballymena in Northern Ireland. I recently purchased my first ever Jaguar (after 44 years of driving). Over the years I have owned mostly BMW's, a couple of Audi's and one Mercedes. I was looking to try Jaguar for a change and started searching for an XF Sportbrake 3.0D v6 to replace my BMW 330D Touring, but then discovered I could get an XJ for a similar price! Last October I spotted a 10 year old XJL with low mileage and immaculate condition in Sapphire Blue (I'm told it was a wedding car in a previous life). I fell in love with it as soon as I first drove it - so now it's mine! It has totally changed my driving style. With the Beemer, I would jump in and set off everywhere at a sprint in Sport mode - but now I cruise and glide through life in Comfort mode. It has done wonders for my stress levels and my blood pressure and makes me want to drive off towards the horizon and tour the world in it 🙂 I was widowed a few years ago and remarried last year. My new wife cannot fly for medical reasons - so we are looking to plan some road trips across Europe in years to come (DV). Let me know if you have any recommendations for stunningly scenic routes to try. I'm looking forward to embracing the Jaguar ownership experience and following this forum for general information, advice on servicing and upgrades. oh - and Happy New Year to all of you for 2026. Kind Regards, Paul. Jaguar XJL 3.0D V6 Portfolio (May 2015) [X351 In Sapphire Blue with optional Rear Seat Entertainment]2 points
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Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike2 points
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....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John2 points
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Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.2 points
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Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John2 points
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Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C2 points
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Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]2 points
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Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!2 points
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Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!2 points
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Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.2 points
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Hi Ted On re-reading your original post I think you are saying that the wipers can be operated by applying a live feed to the motor. If your terminals in the CJB look ok perhaps it is the stalk switch itself that is the problem? My thoughts on the parking brake light is that it may be due to a low battery if you were fiddling about for a while with the ignition on. Low battery voltage is well known to cause random warning lights. Have you read / had read any codes stored? It is always possible that a new parking brake fault developed coincidentally but it does seem unlikely. Have you tried charging the battery and clearing any codes? John1 point
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Hi Graham, sounds like an unfortunate experience there, but hopefully you can get it all back and working again. For the roof, you need to test with a multi meter that voltages are getting to the correct place, i.e. the correct fuse - remember that a fuse can "look" fine but only a resistance test would confirm, - the switch in the roof, etc. Can you hear any relay clicks as the roof switch is operated? In normal circumstances, the operation of the roof would not be linked to the replacement engine, but with Jaguar you never can tell. For the fan 1, could it be as simple as a connector loose / not reseated correctly after the engine installation. The fan should generate a fault code (DTC) of some description which can be read with an OBD code reader, which in turn would help point you in the right direction. N6 JMX1 point
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Well I checked the boot (both sides and spare wheel well) and absolutely no damp or water ingress at all, see pics below. I understand there are 3 modules for the parking aid system (rear sensors module, front sensors module and master) but I could not see any of them in the boot area, any one any idea where they are? Many thanks.1 point
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Thanks to you both for your opinions, much appreciated. May not have one fitted after all.1 point
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Send your friend to the Jaguar Classic Parts website and browse there to find his model and all of the relevant parts diagrams. Link here: Xk8 Coupe/convertible 1997 - 2006 (x100) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts he will need to know his VIN - number in the bottom corner of the windscreen. N6 JMX1 point
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If the pump does not run then first check the inertia switch hasn’t tripped inadvertently before you go further.1 point
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My carpentry skills are non existent! (I mean, I could get a splinter! Or even worse, break a nail! 😱😂) I guess I’ll just have to see if I can find someone that would be willing to take on the challenge, but thank you for your reply ✌🏻🙂1 point
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I think the part number you require is JLM21457. Typing this into a search engine comes up with multiple hits, at least some of which claim to have the parts in stock, including British Parts, for £65.02 + VAT. jaguar xj6 xj12 bonnet hood strut |British Parts UK Appreciate you are overseas, but most of these suppliers are familiar with delivering overseas. N6 JMX1 point
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This is a known but not common issue. The hood can be resealed, after suitable cleaning of the old adhesive with Welcon surface cleaner, by using a glue called Teromix 6700. N6 JMX1 point
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who knows...but having plenty if independent jag indy garages here in the UK we are good...not so sure in other countries. you are worried about resale value? jags are for life man 😉1 point
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Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.1 point
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Thanks, everybody, for your input. Battery was checked, tested and replaced a couple of years ago - sounds like it's time to check it again! Goes into garage tomorrow - watch this space.1 point
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Hi Karl, your battery is a key element of your Modern XK and its ability to start the car (or not as in your case) is no longer a pointer to whether the battery is fit for further service. All modern cars, especially Jaguars, need the battery to be in top condition to allow the multitude of electronics onboard to function correctly. Typical signs of a failing battery are spurious warning lights and apparent electrical gremlins. In truth, I and many others, consider the battery in a Modern XK to be a consumable item and changed at circa 5 years old. In some cases with low usage and regular connection to a battery conditioner when the car is not being used, the battery life can be extended. In your case, unless you know the history of the battery and can confirm it to be less than 5 years old, I would suggest it be changed at the earliest opportunity. Ensure you select the replacement to be of the correct power and dimensions - the battery must fit and be secured into the battery tray, otherwise it is an MoT failure. At a resting voltage below 12 volts, it would seem to be past its prime. Also, as you have discovered, earth connections are also important and I would suggest you check any and all that you can locate around the car. Let us know how you get on. N6 JMX1 point
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Before I brought my 5 Lt XK I looked at many and watch so many hours of U tube it all started to go blurry but the one thing most reviewers commented on was how a std system was so quiet with out pulling fuse 19 or swapping the rear pipe . But during my test drive it didn't sound to muffled but the weird thing was I didn't notice the quad pipes at the rear till I'd looked at a few more, so on a return viewing a quick look under the rear revealed a lack of oil drum size silencer which some might see as a bad thing I just saw a £800 saving on replacing it anyway. As I enter my mid to late 50s my feeble attempt to grow up and be more age appropriate seems to be a dismal failure. Pete.1 point

