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Hi Seamus and welcome to the Club. What engine does you car have? If it is a diesel engine, I would recommend Millers Eco Plus [diesel] which I use and which keeps the fuel system clean. Since starting to use it a couple of years ago I have never had the engine amber warning light come on telling me the EGR valves needed cleaning. I also recommend you use Premium Fuel as it does give a better mpg and a smoother ride. Regards, Peter.

Hi All Jaguar Meet at RAF cosford today Good day out, stayed dry at least, great selection of Jaguars took some pics and made a slideshow Cheers Joe

Hi Luke and welcome to the club. The mpg on my s type has had a slight improvement by using premium diesel and a suitable additive, but I use both on the basis that the engines used by Jaguar are top cars and deserve top class fuel. Regards, Peter,

Heres my checklist..... Damp carpets, this is caused by blocked duckbill drain behind the dash (very expensive to fix). Check under the mats for damp patches under the dash. Make sure it has good service history and normal MOT history. Check the rear windows are secure as the brackets can break. Make sure theres no supercharger or belt noise at startup from cold. Check for warnings on the info screen relating to any problems.

Hi Collected the car this afternoon and up to now.....the new turbo actuator has cleared the problem. He tells me the reason gearbox fault message appears is because the car thinks there is an issue with the torque selector as the car will not go in to top gear, however this is because the car is in limp mode. On EBay they are around £80 he has charged me with labour £150 So anyone with similar issues may want to try this first and expect to pay around this amount Hope this may help

hi I would not chance it because all the loads goes through the body module which switches the lights on and off if your handy with car wiring, you could install 2 relays, that have a separate 12v supply, then you can install any wattage you want

The hose on the air flow meter is burst?

You may find it's the guage it's self that's at fault experienced same problem the solution was to replace entire binical with a secondhand unit around £40 from ebay and another 40 to have correct milage reset a lot heaper fix

Hello Duncan, and welcome to the Club! The XKs are indeed pretty reliable. My advice would be that excellent condition is vital, and you should ensure that all electric items are fully working. I have had my XK for five years, and nothing has gone wrong: One brake light bulb and one indicator bulb have been replaced, that’s all. You do need to keep the battery fully charged if it is not your daily drive, but that is true of all Jaguars. If it is in excellent condition and has a good service history, mileage is not that important.

Welcome to the Club, Joe. Nice Car

quality spot on with mine, no rattles or squeaks, best motor I've had, but I think mine has had a prang at some point in its life as the steering wheel jag emblem is dented, so I'm assuming the air bag has gone off at some point!!

Hi Just a heads up just bought a xf 2010 v6 diesel Am in the process of checking it over have just replaced the locking wheel nuts with standard wheel nuts as the locking nuts were getting corroded rusty Had to do the same on my Honda accord last year and they were a bugger to get off have put on a photo of the offending nuts the xf. Is coming up to 10 years olds it's worth checking if your car is older also Checked all remaining wheel nuts cleaned off and greased them and set to correct torque as I would not have been able to release them with the jag wheel brace all wheel nuts were over tightened Hope this helps

It's a standard audio / video switching unit of the XF Joe

Hi Steve, and welcome to the club. Finding a parts supplier in the UK must be easier than in the USA, and finding one that would ship out parts could prove difficult. There is one company that is worth looking at and one I have used before for small parts. Have a look at the David Manners Group who have a very good supply of new genuine Jaguar parts and who do ship abroad. Let us know how you get on. Regards, Peter.

Hi Nigel Hope you have overcome your starting problem, but if you haven't, I had the same thing with my 1998 XJ8. After about two years of starting in neutral, I had a service and the mechanic found that the gear selector coupling was dry. Simply greasing the joint cured the problem completely. I believe the joint can be found close to the front end of the gear box. Good luck. best not to use WD40 it's not a good lubricant.

Here you go Jon.

OOPS!!

This is a good place to start, I did the same when I got mine although she wasn't as bad as yours by the sounds of it! Do a full service including oil and filters if you like and want to keep her 😉 PS. You're probably aware the inlet manifold needs to come off to access one bank of cylinders. Get gaskets for this and give everything a clean and lube while you're in there 👍

Well you certainly had the right weather for it Joe Looks like a great event

Hi All ! I'm Paul , new to Jaguar ownership, Owned my 2011 Jaguar XF S ( luxury premium ) 3ltr diesel for around 6 mth's now , and enjoyed every minute .

What a way to spend a Sunday washing and waxing my pride and joy. The beast looks so shiny

hi generic code reader will only read engine codes, so no use, only Jaguar IDS/SDD software will communicate with epb and central locking modules make sure your battery fully charged first, put it on charge overnight, low battery cause lots of issues with epb if it still does it, its going to be something like faulty epb motor, faulty module if boots damp, stiff caliper cables or stiff calipers central locking, first check the button click on the remotes, sometime the micro switch inside the remote fail and operate on there own or even stay stuck on if there ok, its going be a sticky door lock, wd40 inside them often cures them cheers Joe these two clip have some good info on fault find epb problems clip 1 clip 2

Ok. Very good 😁 But seriously, any thoughts?

Hello All, Many years ago (Mid 70's) one of my friends asked me to drive the bridesmaid car for a wedding him and his dad had offered to do for someone as he owned two nice cars. This was the first time I drove a Jag and an automatic to boot since then I have always hankered after owning a Jag. So after many years of owning cheap cars I finally bit the bullet and bought a secondhand XF Sportbrake 2013 and what a fantastic car it is. Still getting used to automatic and trying hard not to go for the gear change especially when approaching a roundabout! Have already used the forums to help with an issue installing Sat Nav update so will put a post on there with my helpful hint. Looking forward to many miles in the make of vehicle I have always wanted.

Thanks

gary, find a good auto election who will be able to trace what the problem is...

Well it updated and finished 100% but after turning the car off and leaving till next morning I now have a very sluggish satnav and no postcode option anymore also takes ages between button presses and a message comes up and saying "unable to perform the request Please try again" after pressing the Pick from Map Option". Anybody got any ideas?

Don't worry. There are numerous businesses in the EU that can supply You with a subframe. Some more expensive than the others. Replacing the subframe is quite a simple job actually if You have the tools and the facility. Prices for a bare subframe vary between 1500£ to around 300£. They are available from the U.S. as well, Lithuania, Estonia, Netherlands, even from the U.K. If Your car failed the MoT then You need to find a replacement subframe. As You know the subframe is not 'supposed' to be repaired/welded, hence many scrap the complete car, which is so wrong...... (The subframe should ALWAYS be inspected before going to the MoT. After a failure You need to find a good replacement subframe). Search the internet. You will find one..... or three....... part number XR813273 is superceded by three more numbers, but start with that original part number. BR, vp

hi most people just put a K&N panel filter inside the original airbox the standard airbox is very good and has a cold front air feed, which is directly in front of the grill, giving some ram air type flow would make next to no difference on a diesel On the S-type R's you actually lose power by fitting a cone filter, on street/town driving, due to heat soak from the engine bay, the engines generate loads of heat in the engine bay at low speeds, it sucked up by the engine, due to high temperatures, the ecu retards timing to compensate, giving a loss in power All high quality race type filters use either a panel filter or cone filter in a sealed box, with a cold air feed direct from the front of the car, standard air box offers this, especially if a better filter is fitted, like a K&N if you want more power get it mapped, but make sure you change the oil regular and keep an eye the oil level does not go up on its own, due to leaky injectors, as this is the biggest cause of snapped cranks on this engine also any air filter that offers more air flow or performance, can only be acheived by offering better flow, which can only be done by sacrificing filtration, so more dust and particles will enter the engine, causing unnecessary wear, fact. cheers Joe

Welcome 🙂 when I replace mine, I'll be buying the best I can afford - lesson learned. I bought my S very cheaply, but with a few issues I could see and one or two I couldnt - So far it's cost me a wheel bearing, three way valve, radiator, top hose, header tank and a couple of check straps - but the smiles per mile have been very worth it. Possible gearbox troubles may cost me a few hundred, but TBH im all in for about £1500 so far; what else with this level of style and luxury could you buy ?

Many thanks to Joe for taking the time to decode my VIN.

Hi Hayden, I would suggest a significant short to earth is a possible fault. Beware of re-connecting your battery, the amount of current they can deliver is VERY high. Unless you are a confident car electrician I would have your car taken to your local jaguar specialist. Sorry it's not better news. Mike

Welcome to the Forum, Steve.

I will need about 2 miles of cable so that route is a big no no,and its not a solar panel direct to the battery it runs through a control unit into a smart charger that looks after the battery just like a ctek or any other smart charger. Rob.

My one does it sparadicaly. Usually caused by my sausage fingers just pressing 2 buttons accidentally on the remote. Sometimes when locking the car my sausage thumb turns the headlights on.

if I could just mention that I would check out the wiring ? as it may be a bad earth contact, short in the circuit, break in a wire, many things route itself showing what it is but trying to trace it is very hard,... I would find a good auto electrician or if you've good at using a multimeter you can check it out yourself.

hi its depends on the build I bought a spare cd player and touch screen and sent them to ben to convert then installed it my self you can contact ben at facebook for a price https://www.facebook.com/jagdroid.org/ cheers Joe

hi if you need any more info, theres a lot here http://www.jagrepair.com/ electrical diagrams and workshop manuals which may help cheers Joe

Welcome to the club, Stephaan. I hope you enjoy the club as much as you will enjoy your Jaguar. Regards, Peter.

Hi Paul, At a guess, the badges on the grill and the steering wheel were put on in the factory, and the badge on the rear would be put on or not been put on at the dealership. I have heard that there are drawers at some dealerships filled with badges that never were put on. My S type only has the S Type badge on the rear, although some I have seen have the 2.7 D or the 3.0 badges on the rear. Regards, Peter.

Hi Paul, My first XF, a 2010 model, was fitted with a detachable tow bar that was inserted horizontally. When not in use, the mount and the electrical socket were visible. On my 2016 XF, a Witter detachable is fitted, but the tow bar mounts vertically from below, and the electrical socket swings up behind the rear valence. When not in use, there is no indication that a tow bar is fitted, and the lines of the car are not spoilt. The only downside to this towbar , is that it cost £650 fitted. I hope this is of some use to you.

OK, I've just been sorting out my ftp and have now setup a single source for all of my Jaguar Technical and Maintenance. I didn't produce most of them myself, they are just my gleanings from various sources. Acknowledgement is given where appropriate. Just click on the link below What you see is what you get. If it ain't there... you could always PM me, I might have what you're looking for 😉 My Jaguar Stuff

DEKRA AUTOMOTIVE LISTS ITS ‘EXPERT’ CHECK LIST FOR BUYING A USED CAR WITHOUT THE HEART-ACHE DEKRA Automotive inspect over 9,000 used cars every year from customers buying their first small car to trading up to a nearly new luxury vehicle. With over 200 separate checks on every car they look at, they have amassed a huge database of knowledge to spot the lemon from the perfect car. DEKRA’s experienced vehicle examiners have compiled a list of common failures, tips and issues to look out for when buying your used car. 1 Worn tyres, split tyres, and the wrong tyres - We have come across issues where tyres have been mixed up, incorrect size or just incorrectly fitted, it’s easy to miss, but a tyre failure at speed can be catastrophic. Don’t forget the spare wheel if supplied, an expensive omission if its missed! 2 Check the Oil - A low engine oil level can indicate oil leaks or excessive oil usage – this is very common and no or low oil in an engine, shows poor maintenance and can be expensive to repair. One oil leak can produce a repair bill of over £500. 3 Low coolant and or low antifreeze strength - Coolant leaks sound like a quick fix but it can indicate a major engine problem and result in a catastrophic engine failure minutes after you have taken the car away. 4 Air conditioning not working – Air conditioning not cooling down the ambient air to the required temperature. This is very easy to miss, especially in winter but a new air conditioning system can cost £000's and a dirty or failing aircon system can pump pollutants, spores and irritants into the cabin. 5 Discharged and or insecure batteries – This can be a potential fire risk and shows poor maintenance. Easy to miss and you won’t get far on a defective battery. 6 Missing wheel nuts - We have seen wheels that could fall off at any time. It can be very dangerous and shows poor or sloppy maintenance. 7 Brake Discs - Checking for corroded brake discs and brake judder felt through the steering wheel and the brake pedal when braking. Warped brake discs are a sign of wear and sometimes abuse. How long before the brake warning light comes on (if its connected) and an expensive bill follows? 8 Dashboard warning lights – Not forgetting the interior and exterior car lights. Easy to miss but those lights can be expensive to repair and replace and can warn of further cost ahead. 9 Bodywork and windscreens - Dents and corrosion can indicate a hard life and spotting filler and signs of extensive damage can explain why it’s for sale and you don’t want to buy it. 10 Paperwork – Checking ownership and correct registration, insurance, mileage and service history is a key part of buying a used car. On several occasions DEKRA inspectors have spotted that the VIN printed on the V5 Registration didn’t match the stamped VIN number on the vehicle, in fact it was a stolen vehicle, cloned to look like another identical car. The result, the police were called and took the vehicle away. Had the customer bought it, they would have lost all their money and no car! Commenting on our top ten used car ‘fails’ Shaun Stagg, Dekra Sales Manager said “it’s easy to be dazzled by the prospect of driving your dream car, but experience has taught us that the car may not be the bargain the buyer thinks it is and the investment of a level head to check the car thoroughly has saved a lot of heart ache later on “

Mine has a separate voice module Graham It sits in the passenger seat No buttons fitted as standard but it can be disabled using gaffa tape

The Princess had her transmission sump, filter and fluid replaced today and it certainly was worth the time and effort. She has done in excess of 135 000 miles but, as far as I was concerned, the transmission was faultless apart from occasionally seeming to slip, or take a while to match engine speed. Once or twice I've had the "gearbox fault" caption as well, when accelerating hard when the car was cold. Time will tell but I'm confident that has been sorted out. After the change, there is no longer any apparent slipping and, one thing which I was concerned about, which was the time delay between flooring the throttle from low speed and feeling the kick in the back, which I had assumed was down to the age of the engine, has now completely disappeared :D Clearly, the engine wasn't at fault but rather it was an insidious symptom of the transmission. 4.5 litres of black, burnt treacle was drained, and 6.75 litres of new fluid was added, along with a brand new sump and filter and gasket. There was no indication of leakage of transmission fluid but the original sump pan was certainly warped. The sump pan, fluid, filter & gasket set cost me £120 from a fleabay dealer and my mechanic charged me £40 to do the job, including checking the fluid level in the approved manner. Happy bunny :D I am now, even more than previously, sceptical of the "filled for life" philosophy, having seen how little fluid was recovered and the state of it. Instantaneous response is nice as well I am also expecting better fuel economy now that the engine doesn't over-rev but how much, or indeed, whether it will be measurable, remains to be seen.

I had to wait until I was 45, but yes the wait was worth it. Mine is Carnival red with 18" seven spoke wheels. I spent some money having them professionally restored back to looking like new, and now they set the car off a treat.