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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

Hi Graham, sounds like an unfortunate experience there, but hopefully you can get it all back and working again. For the roof, you need to test with a multi meter that voltages are getting to the correct place, i.e. the correct fuse - remember that a fuse can "look" fine but only a resistance test would confirm, - the switch in the roof, etc. Can you hear any relay clicks as the roof switch is operated? In normal circumstances, the operation of the roof would not be linked to the replacement engine, but with Jaguar you never can tell. For the fan 1, could it be as simple as a connector loose / not reseated correctly after the engine installation. The fan should generate a fault code (DTC) of some description which can be read with an OBD code reader, which in turn would help point you in the right direction. N6 JMX

Hi Alex I would expect you to be getting DTC codes if you are getting dashboard error messages It is possible you need Jag specific software. Have you checked the Fuel Pump Driver Module? Also I would re-check the need to recode a new fuel pump as Gemini (AI search) suggests it is needed. This might also help if you have not already found it. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Fuel System.pdf Good luck John

I think on a 2001 XK the keyhole is on the lower right hand side of the bootlid, where the chrome badge is ?

Hello folks I'm in a similar dillema moving from a convertible Volvo C 70 with its folding metal roof and great capacity to an F type fixed head coupe which does at least allow golf club storage. I would have loved the convertible version but with no storage on board, maybe i should keep the Volvo for summer holidays. By the way do our F type owners think that the glass sun roof is an asset. (No wonder Im calling myself Frazzle) ,

Hi I would only use ZF lifeguard 6, because its never a good idea mixing oils. would only buy genuine ZF aswell, aftermarket filters allways seem to leak. Genuine kit comes with oil, filter, new pins with larger heads and new mecha sleeve, which were prone to leaking on the electric connector. when you change the oil, only about 6 litres drains out of the box, about 4 to 5 litres stays in the torque converter. never known any body have any issues with using zf lifeguard 6, but a lot of people who use a different brand seem to get problems also, when changing the oil, ideally you should clear the gearbox adaptations, so the gearbox learns how to shift again and you get smoother shift, sometimes putting fresh, slightly thicker oil in, can make the gear changes quite harsh, also reseting the adaptations can only be done with software like Jaguar ids/sdd and some icarsofts, disconnecting the battery does nothing. Adaptation reset is allways done if the service is done at jaguar. also if your getting harsh shifts, if the gearbox has never been updated, software update can cure this, last update was 2009, my car was a 2004 and had its original 2004 software, updating mine cured the surging/hunting when it was cold at around 30 to 40 mph. cheers Joe

Hello all, 1st time jag owner here. I collected my 2014 xfs 3.0 sportbrake portfolio just a few weeks ago, it has been back to the garage already as it turns out the bcm was corrupt and it has the dreaded failed door lock actuator too 🤣 all covered on warranty thankfully! Apart from that i am absolutely loving the car! Anyway thought i would introduce myself, im Tommy, also known as the ADHD Fishkeeper (yes diagnosed and not one of them that claims they are but never seen a professional) on tiktok. Im 33 and from the yorkshire area, im looking forward to learning as much as possible from the forums and even meeting some of you at any of the jaguar events.

I'd have a look online in your home area (it says non-UK so no idea where in the world you are) and find a Dexron VI compatible fluid and use that, especially if you plan on periodic part-changes or full changes to maintain it. A quick search revealed that Pentosil #1 is a "life-time fluid" so is likely to be more expensive and won't necessarily last the life of your box. I'd prefer to do a part-change once a year or so to maintain the fluid than use a "lifetime fluid" that maybe breaks down and kills my gearbox. Each to their own though.......

@Ivan forster do you have pictures of some of these parts? We need to verify you own these parts before allowing you to sell these here.

Hi, i drive as my second everyday car my 2004 XKR which i have owned since 2021 ,great car . i have this weekend purchased a totally original 1950 3.5 Mark 4 reg no WAS 423 she been laid up for some 20 years , few issues clutch slipping and over heating but apart from that runs smoothly history back to 1984 shows present milage of just over 21,000. the car appears very solid with no filler or rust apart from surface pattination to the paint work ,which i shall keep intact i'm trying to find some earlier history i've checked the register but nothing showing . engine no T9689 chassis no 623429. any one know anything about this car . David mob 07881900918

Good call, check the simple and easy fix stuff first. The breather would be an obvious thought. N6 JMX

completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models

Boo hiss 😁

Hi, just joined the forum. I have an IRR XFR, 2014 plate with 71k.

Now then, now then, jingle jangle chrome. 😁

I've read that people are getting sick of the owners and deserting their forums in droves, which can only be a good thing for independent forums. 👍

Let's take over 😂

Hi Chris, good to know. For the vehicles you are looking out for, you need the more specialist outlets such as Ken Jenkins, trading as UK Jag. Ken has a steady supply of these type of machines and is currently advertising a 1959 XK 150S, 3.8 Roadster (not a DHC). He is advertising a 1954 XK120 DHC 3.4. the website is www.ukjag.co.uk There is an XK150 DHC SE 1959 advertised in the JE magazine - in the Norfolk area. N6 JMX

Hi Russell, I think you will find that these are not for any specific Jaguar model from the period. Instead they are an early period modification to incorporate "knock-on" spinners to the hub caps of, probably, some of the big saloon models of the day - e.g. the Mk VI. N6 JMX

Hi Dr Daryl, I presume you mean a 2013 XK - keyboard finger trouble! Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring - hope you have many happy journeys. N6 JMX

Excellent, thorough job 👍