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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi everyone. My name is Paul and I am from Ballymena in Northern Ireland. I recently purchased my first ever Jaguar (after 44 years of driving). Over the years I have owned mostly BMW's, a couple of Audi's and one Mercedes. I was looking to try Jaguar for a change and started searching for an XF Sportbrake 3.0D v6 to replace my BMW 330D Touring, but then discovered I could get an XJ for a similar price! Last October I spotted a 10 year old XJL with low mileage and immaculate condition in Sapphire Blue (I'm told it was a wedding car in a previous life). I fell in love with it as soon as I first drove it - so now it's mine! It has totally changed my driving style. With the Beemer, I would jump in and set off everywhere at a sprint in Sport mode - but now I cruise and glide through life in Comfort mode. It has done wonders for my stress levels and my blood pressure and makes me want to drive off towards the horizon and tour the world in it 🙂 I was widowed a few years ago and remarried last year. My new wife cannot fly for medical reasons - so we are looking to plan some road trips across Europe in years to come (DV). Let me know if you have any recommendations for stunningly scenic routes to try. I'm looking forward to embracing the Jaguar ownership experience and following this forum for general information, advice on servicing and upgrades. oh - and Happy New Year to all of you for 2026. Kind Regards, Paul. Jaguar XJL 3.0D V6 Portfolio (May 2015) [X351 In Sapphire Blue with optional Rear Seat Entertainment]

Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.

That was my Thinking. He must of been more proactive with the car rather than reactive. Hence why the MOT has never had a significant issue. I’ll reach out to Rustbusters and get a rough cost. thank you for your help it’s been greatly appreciated

Quick google brought up this: Faulty Headlight Assembly Component A bad bulb, ballast, or internal wiring/control module can cause intermittent operation. Start by replacing the bulb and checking the ballast. Wiring Harness Issue Corrosion or damage in the wiring connecting the headlight to the BCM can cause data/power loss. Inspect the full length of the harness for damage. BCM Entering Protection Mode If the BCM detects repeated short circuits, it disables the output to protect itself (U1000-00 code). The short must be repaired, and the BCM may need a specialist software fix or replacement. Failing BCM Unit A failing BCM can cause various erratic electrical issues, including lighting problems. This is often due to water damage or voltage spikes.

Hi Paul, this website may have the information you need or even the tyres; https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/jaguar/xj40.html

Thanks

Hi Andy, not sure what you are after here as the LED elements for the rear lights are not available as individual lamps, but as a feature part of the rear lamp cluster. Go to the Jaguar Classic Parts website and you will be able to see which part numbers you ned to be looking for. Note that JLR Classic are not yet back to selling online spares following the cyber attack. The link below should take you to the correct page, but as you will see, the parts are VIN specific. Rear Lights | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts N6 JMX

quite a story, but that's gone, you got it back, enjoy!

Hi Robert, you should also look into the legality of adding a Leaper to the front of your XJS as, since it wasn't an original factory fit, it may well be considered a pedestrian injury hazard. I believe there are ways to "mitigate" such hazard, but it involves cutting a major hole in the bonnet and having the Leaper spring loaded so as to disappear inside the bonnet in the event of an interaction with a pedestrian. Like Dave above says, it will not be to everyone's taste and folks tend to look for originality. N6 JMX

You could also look at SNG Barrett's website as they hold large stocks of parts for these cars. SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road N6 JMX

Thanks for the comment. You are absolutely correct. That's why I bought an aluminium-bodied car this time. I have had a varied career, but spent thirty years in the motor industry building cars. I have always had the same intention; it's only now I can afford to buy what I wanted all along. I was in senior management, but not that senior that I could affect what we made. And I am an engineer and know that aluminium is not completely the answer but it is getting nearer. Jim My other cars are a Suzuki Swift Sports (just a day-to-day car but fun) and a track car a fibreglass-bodied, but properly chassisied Porsche 550 Spyder copy, with an Alfa flat four Engine. My general nickname is Spyderromeo

Welcome Rob DJ!!! 🇩🇯

Think you'll find it's Bik3rZ 😏 And thanks👍

And that is why the insurance company have said it is a total loss. Remember, the selling price includes the sellers profit, your insurance company will not want to pay anything to the sellers profit margin.

No problem, don't get me wrong, you can find many of these engines without any issues, but I think more often than not, they are problematic. until 2019 when they finally fixed the issues

More people chatting would be a bonus though and not just us three musketeers 😂

Hi all, a long overdue update on my rust problems. I have finally gotten around to having the work done almost 2 years later, the main driving force behind it has been moving house and loosing the luxury of storage. It’s ended up being £3000 worth of welding but ultimately worth it to preserve another S Type for a few more years. My decision to save the car has actually proven to be quite a blessing because in between my Jag going for welding I was unfortunate enough to have quite a nasty smash in my main car on a rural road that resulted in it being written off, My S Type was my first car so I have ended up being back exactly where I started which makes me question if I should’ve stuck with an S Type all along. I’ll post some more photos once it’s all completed. Cameron.

Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Batteries" tab, enter your registration number and post code, then press search. The website does all the work for you and then you can do a search for the best price for the battery you select - do not have to purchase from Kwik Fit. Note that the most important attribute to your selected replacement should be dimensions. It MUST fit into the battery tray and be held securely in place, it would be an MoT failure if not secured. N6 JMX

New to Jaguar, collected my used XE R petrol from main stealer today … haven’t even started to read the manuals … looking forward to to sharing some hints, tips and stories ..