Jagnumpty

I've decided that when the MOT comes due (and it passes), I'm flogging the Jaaag and putting my US built Dodge Ram Day Van camper conversion on the road as my daily driver and holiday/tow car. 6 seats and still room for a 1/4 size traction engine and mobility scooter while towing a 5 berth folding camper and running mostly on LPG. What's not to love? It pains me to say that the early 2000's Jaags ain't wot they uset ter be. Wouldn't say no to an F-Pace, but who's got that kind of dosh?

Well ... BertieBoy came up with a sum total of nothing. Not even a response. I eventually turned to eBay and got what looked like a barely used one for around £100 delivered directly to my tame spanner swinger. He says that it's as good as its pics and has fitted it. Of course a top hose let go on the way home and dumped the entire cooling system's contents on the road! Although the hose is just one of 4 components, all joined with hose clips, each part cannot be purchased separately! Seventy odd quid for the lot plus postage. Once again eBay has turned up trumps and can supply a new 'bendy' hose of the right diameter for about a tenner. I've not ordered one yet as SWPMO (she who pisses me off) has cleaned me out - again. For the last time. Earn your own money beeeatch!

Thanks. I think I've fond him on Facebook. Time to give him a punt.

It seems that the prop shaft (2004, 2.5 litre V6 estate) rear joint wasn't bolted up tight again after the transfer box was replaced. Now it's buggered with at least 2 bolts sheared and the rest on the verge of dropping out on their own! It's even taken out the sliding part of the joint along the way.😤 To make the fun even funner, the RAC took 7 hours to get to me and then dumped me outside the closed premises of my tame spanner swinger 🤬 It's been way too long to go back and complain, so I'm looking for a replacement at my own cost. Including labour as I'm no longer capable of that amount of physical work. I wouldn't anyway as I no longer trust that mechanic/garage to not stiff me on repairs. Does anyone know of a supplier of such components, new or refurbed, as Jaguar's supply line is currently a total mess? FYI I'm in South Yorkshire, so a local supplier would be preferable, although 'my man' has already been in contact with a specialist prop shaft builder/reconditioner. All responses most gratefully received, Old Chums and Chumettes.

I know I'm late to this thread, but " thanks joe they are good prices" is so far off the mark that i don't understand some people! Those prices are totally insane! As is anyone who pays them. Half a grand for a plastic fan surround? One an a half for a transfer box? Seventy odd quid for a single coil pack when they should be replaced in sets of six? Four hundred & fifty freakin' hundred semolians? I didn't pay that much for my '04, 2.5 X-Type AWD (Sports Package) estate. Now I know why I prefer the older technology. Most of the time I can repair it with a screwdriver and a half inch spanner! I need a decent sized estate car, but I'm afraid that Jaguar is going to have be crossed off the list of possibilities in future! Back to Volvo? 🤔

I'm considering having a towbar and twin electrics fitted to my '04, 2.5 litre X-Type estate, I've had a couple of quotes: £320 and £390/£470 (depending on fixed or removable). Does anyone have any recommendations for fitters and/or better prices in the Rotherham area?

That's likely how I've ended up the a key that doesn't fit. Had a puncture repaired a while back and they used the correct key to get the wheel off. I immediately popped it into one of the cup holders, which is where the wrong 'un is languishing. I'll just have to break out the mini angle grinder. Ta very glad.

Somehow I've ended up with a locking wheel nut key that doesn't fit the nuts on my Jag. Does anyone know how to determine the model letter so I can buy one? Yeah; the dealer, but they're literally miles away and will likely want one of my nuts in exchange 🙄

In the 'old days' they used to add a UV florescent dye to the refrigerant so leaks were more easily detectable. No idea if they still do, but UV lights can be bought quite cheaply to do your own testing. I've had one for years. I'm going to have to run it over my system when I can get around to fitting new batteries after I've found the damn thing 🙄

Never worked on a Moggy Thou, have you? 😂

Decided to have a bash at starting the job this afternoon. Despite my back telling me off - vigorously - I kept going until it was finished and all tools tidied away. Started first turn of the key without any long churning over. But ran rough at over 2,5K rpm. Rev again - same And again and again and ... coughed ... cleared it's throat and ... went to 6,5K sweet as a nut. Cleared the error codes with the Torque app and they declined to return 😆 Ya friggin hoo! Just the MOT & VED to sort out 🤑 Thanks for all the help, Mick.

"Time is money" Not really. I have much of the former and little of the latter. Needs must when the devil drives ... 😈 Thanks again.

I've got one new coil pack and a set of plugs already. Forgot about the need for a new gasket. I'm not really in the mood to change a whole bank of coil packs on the basis of one partly failing, though. Not even a set of used ones. That's why I was hoping there might be a DIY way of testing them. If recent history is anything to go by, the garages I go to are loath to fit components they haven't supplied, so it looks like I'll be DIYing it anyway. Thanks for the info.

My local Jag expert has diagnosed the check engine light problem to be caused by a single duff coil pack - number 5 of course 😡 Although my cheap OBD checker says it's 'weak mixture on rear bank'. The actual symptoms are that the engine revs and pulls freely to just under 3K rpm and then goes into limp mode, but immediately runs sweet again once the revs drop back under the magic figure. With the CEL on I can't MOT the car and I've only just reinsured it at a cost of over £400 that I can't merely say goodbye to. Not even the penalty for canceling it. I can cancel the CEL with the Torque app and my OBD checker, but it comes back on even if I don't get even close to 3K rpm. In theory since it's only spanner work I could do it myself, but what if it isn't the coil pack and I reassemble it and it's not cured the problem? Is there a way of testing a coil pack to indicate if it's not up to snuff even when it's working ... kinda? Failing that what price would i be looking at if I had a back street 'expert' do the work for me?

I know nothing about the factory satnavs in Jags, b ut I've owned several after market ones. On the whole you have to save home as "Home" in 'favourites'. You just have to work out how to do that.

That's a pair of side doors like the two in the back. It has the baby 3.9 litre V6. Bill Murray was stooging around in the same model (with minor differences) in Groundhog Day the other evening on cable. The first major work I had done on it was to have it converted to LPG, so fuel economy has almost doubled. Yesterday I set out to fit the new LEDs after finishing the small matter of installing a towbar. 4 bolts in and the dry fit showed it needed a little tweaking. After tweaking it slipped in nicely and all ... er 7 bolts slipped in nicely. Final bolt? Not even close. Tug, heave, squeeze, hammer, bend, distort Nothing worked. Exhausting hours later I was about to say f**k it and let 7 bolts do the work of 8 when I had a though flitting across my weary mind: If I do this and that and the other all at the same time ... With my energy and brain fading at a rate of knotts I gave it that last 'college try'. Well spank my botty and call me Susan. It worked! Oh, frabjious joy. Only 3 other, non car related, jobs to do today and mayhap I can have a go at the lights.

Dun't harf jabber, dun't ee? Anyhoo: I checked with one of my local testing stations and it turns out that DLR and sidelights must be separate. This is to permit the DLR have a lower brightness when you turn on the sidelights after lighting up time.

In other words nothing to do with my question. Fortunately I have enough LED strips to make them into one set of DLRs and one of sidelights or 2 individual units each side for one or the other. I've been meaning to pop into one of the local testing stations and ask them, but I always forget why I want to talk to them when I'm passing 🤡

Hi, Pete. What did the tester give as the specific reason for the failure?

Daylight running lights Vs side lights. I know that the former are compulsory in some countries and merely acceptable in others (eg. the UK). I also know that the latter are pretty much compulsory universally. But are they interchangeable? Can I dispense with sidelights if I fit DLRs?

New plugs arrived, but I'm considering getting a coil pack to see what happens when I swap one or more in/out. However, after resetting the error codes several times, I have ascertained that things only go square shaped if the revs hit just under 3K. That's when the misfire hits and the EML goes on. If I keep the revs under that self imposed limit the car runs relatively sweetly. The only problem otherwise is that the car doesn't feel like a Jag. Nothing i can put my finger on, but ... y'know ... 🤥

Thanks. I'll give that a go. I'll pick up a set of Iridium plugs. Might even use my Halfords discount.

Does the engine light come on? If it does you need to 'interrogate' the OBD system. You can do it yourself with the right equipment or go to most garages who will be able do it for you. This will detect virtually all common problems and most less common ones. If you already have a smart Android phone you can get a Bluetooth OBDII scanner for the same price, or less, than a professional will charge for one scan. Then you can do as many as you want for the single outlay. How much better their equipment may be I couldn't say.

The other day the EML light came on and the engine went into ultra limp mode. I wasn't far from my self styled Jag 'expert', so I popped in and he plugged in his OBD system. He reported that the trouble was the coil pack on cylinder 5 and reset the error code. That was enough to almost get me the 2/3 mile home when it happened again. Since my previous bluetooth OBD was acting up I bought a replacement and connected it to the 'Torque' app on my phone. This reported that Bank 1 was running lean and that there were other 'potential problems'. Does that sound like a coil pack to anyone? I'm too used to real coils serving multiple cylinders rather than a mini one for each, so it's all Greek to me.

As a long term owner of all types of cars I've found that most multigrade oils (excluding EP gear oils) will be fine. Alternatively there's little if any financial advantage in not using the recommended 5W 30 fully synthetic. However I snaffled up 14 gallons of the stuff from my local ASDA late last year when they were flogging a lot of it off at half price. *Smugface* If, as you surmise, the engine is showing signs of wear and is using oil then it's reasonable to go for something a bit thicker. Or would be if 10W 40 was thicker when warm; which it isn't. I can hear the howls of anguish as I type this, but if you have to go thicker, then go thicker. By that I mean 20W 50. But only if you're seeing a significant loss from one change to the next. If not, stick to 5W 30 and maybe chuck in a bottle of Slick 50. I've been using it for decades with no detectable harm in many Jags and other makes.