Big John

Hi Armando, and welcome Can you clarify a bit? Usually parasitic drain refers to a slow battery drain with the ignition off. However I think you are saying that the battery is unable to start the car unless you charge it for 10 mins. Then when you turn it off it is again unable to start the car. Is that correct? If so, and assuming the engine is not turning over rapidly when trying to start, it sounds like either an alternator fault or a failing battery. I would expect an alternator fault to throw a code which suggests a failing battery. Have you checked voltages and / or tested the battery?

Hi Philip Hopefully the garage will be able to sort it. Just a thought but was the 2022 replacement battery an AGM? If it was replaced with a flooded cell battery it could well have failed or even a cheap AGM may have started to fail if it has been subject of frequent stop/start cycles. Good luck John

Hi Neal and welcome. Lovely looking car 🙂 As a starter I would suggest you acquire a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up and if the battery is at all suspect, or over 5 years old, I would replace it as lots of those "surprise electrical issues" are the result of low battery voltage. Good luck with your custody of the old cat 🙂 John

Hi Jackie Sounds like you have a similar problem to one I had during lockdown. I let the battery completely discharge through lack of use. When AA got it started all OK except both rear doors remained locked and would not open. Mine was sorted under warranty but I understand a garage with the Autologic software can sort it quickly. I think the problem is that low voltage corrupts the software in one of the many computer modules so it needs re-coding. I have heard that these guys could help: https://www.eandeservices.co.uk/ They are in Luton but might be worth a call... Good luck John

Hi Ted On re-reading your original post I think you are saying that the wipers can be operated by applying a live feed to the motor. If your terminals in the CJB look ok perhaps it is the stalk switch itself that is the problem? My thoughts on the parking brake light is that it may be due to a low battery if you were fiddling about for a while with the ignition on. Low battery voltage is well known to cause random warning lights. Have you read / had read any codes stored? It is always possible that a new parking brake fault developed coincidentally but it does seem unlikely. Have you tried charging the battery and clearing any codes? John

Hi Ted The fact you "generated" a new fault by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector suggests corrosion on terminals which may well be due to water ingress. Have you tried disconnecting, examining and cleaning the terminals and then re-connecting? John

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306346687269?_trksid=p4375194.c102726.m162918 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/127169141692?_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851 Second link looks to be same wheels but payment in Euros which seems cheaper! Even with the cost of refurb these look the way to go if you want to actually use your new toy and not simply look at it on the drive 🙂 Good luck John

Hi Paul Personally I would be moving to 15" or 16" as those tyres will simply become less and less safe the older they get, until at some point they will fail........ :( Found this which appears to be the 15" version of your metric wheels. Might be worth a try and see if they will ship to UK.... https://susuperdeals.shop/product/75661006133/?cid=803cf2e9053a846b4d3f76833657f3ff Good luck John

Quick google brought up this: Faulty Headlight Assembly Component A bad bulb, ballast, or internal wiring/control module can cause intermittent operation. Start by replacing the bulb and checking the ballast. Wiring Harness Issue Corrosion or damage in the wiring connecting the headlight to the BCM can cause data/power loss. Inspect the full length of the harness for damage. BCM Entering Protection Mode If the BCM detects repeated short circuits, it disables the output to protect itself (U1000-00 code). The short must be repaired, and the BCM may need a specialist software fix or replacement. Failing BCM Unit A failing BCM can cause various erratic electrical issues, including lighting problems. This is often due to water damage or voltage spikes.

Hi Syd. When my camera / sensors failed it came up as offside front sensor, but was actually the front bumper wiring loom with the issue feeding that sensor. Do you have any codes? These are pretty vital to help sort issues otherwise you end up "throwing" solutions at the problem hoping that one will eventually sort it. The camera and sensors work as a whole so if a sensor is not reading correctly, the whole system shuts down to let you know you are on your own. I think the tailgate loom switch only works when it is just the camera which is not working. My guess would be the camera and radio are probably unrelated. Good lluck John

Hi Paul Given those tyres are likely to be north of £600 per corner (when you can get them!), unless you are desperate to keep the original wheels I would be looking to replace with a set of 15" or 16" alloys which will probably cost a lot less that the R390s. https://iconicalloys.co.uk/ https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/ Good luck John

Hi Mike I had exactly the same issue on 2013 XF Sportbrake. Totally confused the garage as not fixed after replacing the external sensor. It seems the computer still relies on previous readings until the car has been turned off for over 6 hours so, fingers crossed, it may be OK when you have left it overnight..... Good luck John

Hi Michael Seems you have no fuel available at first. Sounds like a problem I had with an old Peugeot 208 where there was a loose connection in the fuel line to the pump allowing air in and thus letting the fuel slip back down the line. This needed prolonged turnover or manual pumping of the fuel pump (it had a primer on top!) before it would start. Obviously the longer it sits between "sessions" the more time the fuel has to creep back down the fuel line if that is your problem I would check the fuel lines for leaks / loose connections and look / smell for fuel leaks and possible areas where air could be getting in the line. Good luck John

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Have you tried jump starting? When you say it won't "start" does it turn over but fail to start or fails to turn over? If it turns over, is it sluggish? Regards John

Hi Dawud. Wow, that is a LOT of issues! My first thought is if you bought from a dealer, go straight back and start quoting sale of goods act. If it was a private sale I would be looking for an auto-electrican with Jag experience. I did a quick search and based on your profile location you might give these guys a call: https://autotektuning.co.uk/ On the cambelt it is needed ASAP but I would want to make sure the electrics were sorted first before I fork out several hundred for a cambelt change. Good luck John

Hi Alex I would expect you to be getting DTC codes if you are getting dashboard error messages It is possible you need Jag specific software. Have you checked the Fuel Pump Driver Module? Also I would re-check the need to recode a new fuel pump as Gemini (AI search) suggests it is needed. This might also help if you have not already found it. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Fuel System.pdf Good luck John

Hi Nanak https://www.vehiclerevolution.com/products/jaguar-xf-xfr-xfrs-rear-diffuser-black-abs-plastic-2008-2015 or think you need both of the below..... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-C2Z16212--SelectedCurrency-1 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-C2Z16211 Regards John

Hi Alex Have you looked for any stored error codes since the original problem? Only other thing that I can think of is that the replacement pump needs to be paired or coded to the car. Maybe this will help with the fuel gauge issue: Regards John

Hi John Code is probably 1313 Sometimes 0000 or 1111 may work. Good luck John

Hi Mark Pretty sure by 2019 that CD player was optional. Easiest solution is to use bluetooth to connect to your phone and listen to spotify etc... John

Pretty sure it is under the rear parcel shelf. Regards John

Are these what you are after? https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|100:259| Good luck John

Hi Martin That sounds very expensive!. Presumably a Jag main dealer. I would be looking for other quotes without a doubt. As a guide to parts prices try searching online at places like this : https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/jaguar/xf-x260/115130/10221-shock-absorber Good luck John