Big John

Hi Rich. How full is the fuel tank? Also can you confirm if the gear selector fails and the stop/start fails as well when it stalls? If so there must be something else other than fuel causing that.... Regards John

Hi Richard. These seem to be a possible... https://www.sandcmotors.co.uk/ Good luck John

Hi Phil "Hi I recently bought a Ftype 3.0 v6 2020 but stop start won’t work I just have the logo pop up with a line through it." When you get that on the dashboard it means that Stop/Start is disabled. At each start-up the system should be re-activated unless you press the Eco button to disable it again, at which point the sign on the dash comes up to say it is disabled. As Jim said it is possible that, assuming you have not used a code reader to "tell the car" about the new battery that it has not yet realised 🙂 I know with the XF that every few months the car performs a battery test to confirm its status. Until the car does this it might simply be that it is not sure that the battery is able to complete a "start" so does not initiate a "stop". For me the Stop/Start light being on is important. If this comes on without you pressing the button there may well be a fault. You say you recently bought the car? If not a private sale I would be heading back to the dealer for them to sort it.... Regards John

Hi Rich "when at lights or roundabout the car seems lumpy upon accelerating this is when i believe the stall is going to happen, I’m having to depress accelerator 3-4 times approximately 4 secs elapse before revs increase enough to pull away" That sounds much more fuel related. Starting point for me would be to change the fuel filter (quick and cheap) as these seem to be regularly "missed" when service is completed by major chains so will eventually clog up and impede fuel flow. Do keep us updated. Regards John

Hi Rich. Personally I only ever use Shell V Power Diesel and have not had any issues for the past 6 years of ownership.... However I am not convinced your issue is fuel related as that should not affect either the start button or selector functions. When the car stalls do you have any warning lights? Have you tried reading the DTC codes? Does the Start/Stop system worked? Have you tried diasbling Stop/Start to see if the problem is the Start/Stop only doing its "Stop" then failing to restart? John

Hi Ian Can you give a little more detail? Does the engine just stop dead? Any warning lights? Any smoke? Rough running? Noises? Not sure I agree with your mechanic that yours counts as "an older car" in terms of reading the DTC codes. My cheap code reader is more than happy reading any DTCs on my 2.1 petrol from 2003.... Regards John

Hi Dias and Sheela. Jim is absolutely correct. Your cars are very heavy battery users and at 5 years you should be looking at replacement as a precaution unless you are prepared for it to fail at the most inconvenient of times 🙂 If you are only doing short(ish) journeys the car will not have chance to fully charge the battery. Unless you are doing long runs every couple of days, I would be looking to use a battery maintainer once a week (I use a Ctek). Only comment on Jims advice would be to add that if you don't "update" the car that a new battery has been added the car will eventually work it out for itself as it "checks" the battery every few months by discharging it down to 75% capacity by limiting charge voltage to 12.2v. This is another reason to use a maintainer, as if the car has just done a "check" when you park up for a few days your battery may well already be down to 75% of its potential capacity. Another thing to look out for is if the Stop/Start works as the car will only Stop/Start when it is sure there is enough battery capacity to re-start. Regards John

That is a pretty good price. They are an excellent tyre. Just keep an eye on pressures and tracking so that they wear evenly and you can maximise their life. 🙂

...In Scotland I would probably go for the CrossClimates as their snow performance is very good. Only downside is cost but they do last a long time (need to keep on top of tracking). Regards John

Hi Andrew, and welcome. I never understand people who buy a premium car and then put rubbish tyres on it! I would always buy a cheaper car and put decent tyres on it. I am a big fan of All Season Tyres. Michelin crossclimates are possibly best value as they do last well but my personal favourite are what I am currently running, that is the Bridgestone Turanza 6 All Season (My XF is on 19" wheels). They provide 95% of the on the limit performance of a premium summer tyre (more grip than I am prepared to use!) but they will really come into their own when we get down below 8C. Add some snow and you are in a different league. I also have GOODYEAR VECTOR 4 SEASONS GEN-3 on my X-Type but this only gets very light use so hard to give an opinion. Choose a decent brand and you WILL notice the difference over the Chinese ditch-finders, especially from October to April. Regards John

Hi Jesamin This the one? : https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts/lighting-interior-exterior/headlamps/special-offers-and-clearance-items-in-headlamps.html/xk8-xkr-x100-1996-2006-front-left-headlight-assembly-lja4503ag-4377.html Regards John

Hi Nizar First thing you need to do is read the DTC codes which should help pinpoint the problem. Code readers are cheap and easy to obtain from ebay or amazon. Regards John

With the potential damage to the old girl, my head say it is probably sensible to move on 😞 A quick look on Autotrader and other sites suggest a like for like replacement at between £2k and 12k depending on mileage and condition. Just a guess but you are almost certainly looking at north of £5k for a rebuild. However if you swap it, you are then buying an unknown and he has already invested heavily in the car so sorting the engine may be the best route. Bottom line is how much is it worth to him and can he afford the repairs? If he can I would start looking at an engine rebuild (I rescued a 2003 X-Type with 26k miles from this site for fun - and £250 and spent around £2k on sorting it (body and sills) but now have a car which I will keep as long as I can. Essentially one for the heart v head v wallet to sort 🙂 A quick search through Google suggests the garage the car is already at is probably as good as any in the area so I would be inclined to be guided by them. Good Luck, and keeping my fingers crossed you decide to "pay the vet bill" for the old cat...

Do you have any DTC codes?

Hi Colin First check is to look for water in the front footwell or spare wheel compartment in the boot. Both locations are known problem areas close to computer junction boxes which can cause all sorts of issues.... Regards John

...Those voltages sound OK. Could be the auxilliary battery but just re-read your original message. The Stop/Start light should only come on when the car is actually stopped and the engine has shut off as a result of an auto stop. It then goes off when the engine restarts. If it is coming on with the engine running it sound like an issue. Have you tried reading for any error codes? When you press the eco button on the dash do you get a message saying it is turned off or on? When manually turned off there should be an icon in the info panel showing the symbol with line through it. The green symbol on the dash comes on when the stop/start is active. John

Hi Jack To be honest if you have had the car 4 years and not replaced the battery it is probably due a new one. Battery charger you have may be OK but personally I would be wary. Jaguars (like all modern premium cars) are a collection of computers and networks with a wheel at each corner. As such they use a LOT of electricity and get upset (refuse to work properly) when their supply gets a bit iffy. I use a CTEK Stop/Start which are about £80.... Voltage varies drastically. When fully shut down and sleeping voltage if fully charged should be 12.6v+. As soon as you unlock the car it can be drawing up to 20A so voltage drops quickly to not much over 12.2. When engine is running mine is about 14.8v

Hi Caio Those compression readings certainly suggest 2-3 cylinders with major problems 😞 Slightly concerned at the logic though as oil level is high and there is no mention of possible coolant contamination that caused the level to rise. Did you get a low oil warning and top up excessively? Were there any warning signs or symptoms prior to failure? Garage obviously think oil pressure loss caused issues but oil pump clearly still working as it could raise pressure. They therefore must think that oil level was way to low causing lose of pressure and thus the damage.... Do you have any DTC codes? Certainly sounds like engine needs a major stripdown to diagnose fully which may actually be more expensive than a replacement engine.... John

Hi Andy We need quite a bit more info to offer any help. Year, Engine, Price, Mileage, What do you mean by "Breathing really heavily", Have you read any error codes, Any warning lights, etc etc? Regards John

Hi Dawn https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/jaguar-xe-bluefire-76jxe002 Enjoy 🙂 John

Really glad you got it sorted.... and posted the resolution to help future users 🙂

Different part number but could be compatible.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-C2C42226P John

Hi John Just go to any of the usual website such as Halfords or Kwikfit, type in your reg and you will have the correct spec for your car. Regards John

Hi Glyn P245A is EGR valve. Ideally you need a fuller code from a reader than can identify the Jag speciffic suffix code but you probably have a gunged up EGR. This might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ta9zHS7JTc I decided, when I first bought mine, to try and use only Shell V diesel to try and minimise "carbon build-up" issues. 6 years and 60k later it has worked so far (touching wood as I write this). Hope that helps John

Hi Richard Welcome to the forum 🙂 Great choice of car. Personally I much prefer our era of the sportbrake as I think the later ones just don't seem to have quite the same good looks (still handsome, just not quite as good). Regards John