Big John

Hi Patrick. If your DPF warning is amber just take it for a run and it should clear itself after 30 mins or so. If it is red I would advise taking it to a garage where they can properly diagnose and test the problem. Regards John

Hi Patrick I can.t see the image but as a rule going for a drive of at least 30 mins at a constant speed around 50-70 should force a DPF regeneration. (basically your "soot filter" is blocked and the car needs to burn it clean). However, if you have just bought it from a garage you should take it straight back an get them to sort it. Just refer to section 14 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 which requires products sold to be of "satisfactory quality". Regards John

Hi Jon I feel your pain. TX valve on my XF is stuck. £30 valve that needs two screws undoing to replace. Except to get at it you need to remove the entire dashboard and Heating and Ventilation / Air conditioning system 😞 Good luck John

Hi John. Only thing to add to Jim's excellent advice would be to ensure you get the correct "type". I think yours uses an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a traditional wet cell battery and replacing with the wrong type will almost certainly cause problems. When I got my XF it had a standard wet cell fitted, presumably as they are about half the price of the AGM but often fail within 12 months so if the previous owner was already thinking of selling when it was replaced...... Regards John

Hi Greg, and welcome. Could be a number of things from spark plugs through to fuel pump, and many more.... The good news is that, as it has thrown a CEL, it will have recorded a diagnostic trouble code or codes (DTC). Any garage should be able to read these for you, or it is a really simple thing to do yourself with a code reader. These are readily available on Amazon or Ebay for about £20 ($25). Please let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Michael Is this the one? https://www.keymoon.uk/jaguar-s-type-three-button-remote-with-flip-key-fo21.html You may then need to get it programmed to the car but a good auto locksmith should be able to do that. Regards John

That sounds very odd 😞 Only thing that comes to my mind is a faulty ignition key switch or wiring, or possibly power to the fuel pump as, once started, a diesel just keeps running until its fuel supply is cut off or it is starved of air. For it to switch itself of "cleanly" without any misfiring, as you are describing, suggests that either, there is a fault in the key circuit (it thinks you have turned the ignition off). or the fuel pump is losing power and cutting the fuel off. Maybe you could try rummaging around the wires inside the steering column (when parked!) and see if you can replicate the problem? Regards John

Hi Julian. I think you would find that having the fog lights as DLRs is not legal as they are too low. Fog lights are only supposed to be used in fog (when visiblity is below 100m). Also DRL are only usally fitted to the front as they are to improve your visibility to others. Regards John

The EGR stuck can certainly produce a rough idle, stalling etc. BUT It should also throw the Engine Management Light and record a DTC such as P0401 or P0402. You could try using this. Never tried it myself but might be worth a try: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wynns-diesel-egr-valve-aerosol-200ml-555770100 Regards John

Hi Rich. How full is the fuel tank? Also can you confirm if the gear selector fails and the stop/start fails as well when it stalls? If so there must be something else other than fuel causing that.... Regards John

Hi Richard. These seem to be a possible... https://www.sandcmotors.co.uk/ Good luck John

Hi Phil "Hi I recently bought a Ftype 3.0 v6 2020 but stop start won’t work I just have the logo pop up with a line through it." When you get that on the dashboard it means that Stop/Start is disabled. At each start-up the system should be re-activated unless you press the Eco button to disable it again, at which point the sign on the dash comes up to say it is disabled. As Jim said it is possible that, assuming you have not used a code reader to "tell the car" about the new battery that it has not yet realised 🙂 I know with the XF that every few months the car performs a battery test to confirm its status. Until the car does this it might simply be that it is not sure that the battery is able to complete a "start" so does not initiate a "stop". For me the Stop/Start light being on is important. If this comes on without you pressing the button there may well be a fault. You say you recently bought the car? If not a private sale I would be heading back to the dealer for them to sort it.... Regards John

Hi Rich "when at lights or roundabout the car seems lumpy upon accelerating this is when i believe the stall is going to happen, I’m having to depress accelerator 3-4 times approximately 4 secs elapse before revs increase enough to pull away" That sounds much more fuel related. Starting point for me would be to change the fuel filter (quick and cheap) as these seem to be regularly "missed" when service is completed by major chains so will eventually clog up and impede fuel flow. Do keep us updated. Regards John

Hi Rich. Personally I only ever use Shell V Power Diesel and have not had any issues for the past 6 years of ownership.... However I am not convinced your issue is fuel related as that should not affect either the start button or selector functions. When the car stalls do you have any warning lights? Have you tried reading the DTC codes? Does the Start/Stop system worked? Have you tried diasbling Stop/Start to see if the problem is the Start/Stop only doing its "Stop" then failing to restart? John

Hi Ian Can you give a little more detail? Does the engine just stop dead? Any warning lights? Any smoke? Rough running? Noises? Not sure I agree with your mechanic that yours counts as "an older car" in terms of reading the DTC codes. My cheap code reader is more than happy reading any DTCs on my 2.1 petrol from 2003.... Regards John

Hi Dias and Sheela. Jim is absolutely correct. Your cars are very heavy battery users and at 5 years you should be looking at replacement as a precaution unless you are prepared for it to fail at the most inconvenient of times 🙂 If you are only doing short(ish) journeys the car will not have chance to fully charge the battery. Unless you are doing long runs every couple of days, I would be looking to use a battery maintainer once a week (I use a Ctek). Only comment on Jims advice would be to add that if you don't "update" the car that a new battery has been added the car will eventually work it out for itself as it "checks" the battery every few months by discharging it down to 75% capacity by limiting charge voltage to 12.2v. This is another reason to use a maintainer, as if the car has just done a "check" when you park up for a few days your battery may well already be down to 75% of its potential capacity. Another thing to look out for is if the Stop/Start works as the car will only Stop/Start when it is sure there is enough battery capacity to re-start. Regards John

That is a pretty good price. They are an excellent tyre. Just keep an eye on pressures and tracking so that they wear evenly and you can maximise their life. 🙂

...In Scotland I would probably go for the CrossClimates as their snow performance is very good. Only downside is cost but they do last a long time (need to keep on top of tracking). Regards John

Hi Andrew, and welcome. I never understand people who buy a premium car and then put rubbish tyres on it! I would always buy a cheaper car and put decent tyres on it. I am a big fan of All Season Tyres. Michelin crossclimates are possibly best value as they do last well but my personal favourite are what I am currently running, that is the Bridgestone Turanza 6 All Season (My XF is on 19" wheels). They provide 95% of the on the limit performance of a premium summer tyre (more grip than I am prepared to use!) but they will really come into their own when we get down below 8C. Add some snow and you are in a different league. I also have GOODYEAR VECTOR 4 SEASONS GEN-3 on my X-Type but this only gets very light use so hard to give an opinion. Choose a decent brand and you WILL notice the difference over the Chinese ditch-finders, especially from October to April. Regards John

Hi Jesamin This the one? : https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts/lighting-interior-exterior/headlamps/special-offers-and-clearance-items-in-headlamps.html/xk8-xkr-x100-1996-2006-front-left-headlight-assembly-lja4503ag-4377.html Regards John

Hi Nizar First thing you need to do is read the DTC codes which should help pinpoint the problem. Code readers are cheap and easy to obtain from ebay or amazon. Regards John

With the potential damage to the old girl, my head say it is probably sensible to move on 😞 A quick look on Autotrader and other sites suggest a like for like replacement at between £2k and 12k depending on mileage and condition. Just a guess but you are almost certainly looking at north of £5k for a rebuild. However if you swap it, you are then buying an unknown and he has already invested heavily in the car so sorting the engine may be the best route. Bottom line is how much is it worth to him and can he afford the repairs? If he can I would start looking at an engine rebuild (I rescued a 2003 X-Type with 26k miles from this site for fun - and £250 and spent around £2k on sorting it (body and sills) but now have a car which I will keep as long as I can. Essentially one for the heart v head v wallet to sort 🙂 A quick search through Google suggests the garage the car is already at is probably as good as any in the area so I would be inclined to be guided by them. Good Luck, and keeping my fingers crossed you decide to "pay the vet bill" for the old cat...

Do you have any DTC codes?

Hi Colin First check is to look for water in the front footwell or spare wheel compartment in the boot. Both locations are known problem areas close to computer junction boxes which can cause all sorts of issues.... Regards John

...Those voltages sound OK. Could be the auxilliary battery but just re-read your original message. The Stop/Start light should only come on when the car is actually stopped and the engine has shut off as a result of an auto stop. It then goes off when the engine restarts. If it is coming on with the engine running it sound like an issue. Have you tried reading for any error codes? When you press the eco button on the dash do you get a message saying it is turned off or on? When manually turned off there should be an icon in the info panel showing the symbol with line through it. The green symbol on the dash comes on when the stop/start is active. John