Big John

Hi Keith. Not a simple answer but in short I would say yes, that is too low. A lot depends on when you measured it. The jag, like most modern cars is a shed load of networked computers on wheels. These computers are very power hungry and like a toddler take their time going to sleep, so will still be drawing power for up to 30 mins after you turn the car off. I have a bluetooth voltmeter on mine and when I turn mine off after a run I would expect voltage to drop to 12.8v. If I leave the car for a week and it gets below 12.5v I would be connecting my Ctek charger. 12.48v within minutes of shutdown suggests to me the battery is weak or it is not being charged properly by the alternator.... BUT 12.48v should not cause a problem in itself. The question would be what does it drop to when you next try a start? John

Sorry forgot the link.... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Body and Paint.pdf John

Hi Andy The window regulator stop function works on monitoring the current drawn when closing the window. When current drawn increases (end of travel or resistance to closing -such as a trapped finger) it stops. In your case it sounds like either there is resistance at the top of travel - maybe loose trim at the top of the frame or (more likely) the front of the window has dropped out of alignment. I assume from your post it is not possible to raise the rear of the window by the same 3mm as you can the front? If so, my guess is the front support mounts have dropped. Have you tried re-setting whilst "helping" the front to close that extra 3mm? The previous model details are here but I would imagine the windows are not dissimilar. John

Hi Carl First simple things I would check is the condition / volume of the Engine oil and coolant. Are there any signs of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant?. A lack of smoke is not always diagnostic of a failing cylinder head gasket. The smoke comes if oil / coolant is reaching the cylinder and being expelled through the exhaust. If cylinder pressure is leaking into the oil ways or coolant you should see fumes from the crankcase when you remove the filler cap or have coolant being forced out of the radiator cap. As Jim said, it could be a blocked / leaking coolant system but I once had the AA out to a Saab 95 which was overheating on the motorway. They said faulty temp gauge as everything seemed OK. I stopped 20 miles later when temp gauge fell but by then cylinder head was already warped 😞 Good Luck John

https://www.wolvesparts.com/product?pid=JAGUAR+XF+X250+REAR+BUMPER+REINFORCEMENT+CRASH+BAR&sku=1170

I Agree, these are great cars and well worth the effort they require from those of us who love them 🙂 Slightly worried about the " used to start a wagon before" and "after using the booster everything is now dead". I hope the booster was set to 12v not 24v......😫 Good luck

Hi Ross Are you certain that the booster pack you used was fully charged, and powerful enough to start the engine? Re-reading your original post in isolation I would say dodgy battery. A decent starter pack will only require engaging "Boost" if it is unable to detect a voltage in the vehicle battery. To then only do a couple of turns with a fully charged starter pack suggest either the starter pack is not powerful enough (or is itself flat) OR their is a massive short when the starter is engaged. Just because a battery reads over 12v at rest does not mean it is OK. My wifes Skoda failed to start last week. Started fine with my Noco GB50 attached but initial quick test by garage said battery was OK and at 80%. Only when tested again 2 days later did it show as knackered. New battery and now running fine. Is it possible to try a jump start from another car with heavy duty jump cables?

Hi Ross Can we just go back and explore in more detail exactly what happens when you try and start the car? Are the key batteries OK? Does the car show any signs of "waking up" when unlocked? Have you tried starting with the key held over the sensor? Any lights on the dash? Have you tried jump starting from another car / starter pack? etc Regards John

Hi Keith First thing to check would be the battery. Random codes and problems such as you are suffering are often down to a failing battery. How old is the battery? Have you had it tested / have you tried charging it? Was / Is your stop / start working normally before these symptoms? Has the car been stood for a while / used for short journeys only? Regards John

Hi Ross I would still have a look around the mega fuses as a poor connection there could well fit your symptoms (including the burning smell) and I am not convinced a dead alternator would account for non-operational interior lights and hazards... Good luck John

"it's pointing towards an earthing problem somewhere, rather than fuses." ... I Agree it is unlikely that a Mega fuse has totally failed however they do themselves suffer from corrosion and can be a source of intermittent problems. If the Battery is indeed good, then the most likely issue is around an electrical connector most likely the battery terminals, battery earth (both visible) or the Mega Fuses (less obvious). Regards John

Hi Phil Assuming your purchase date was 1st June 2024 and not 1st June 2014 you need to go straight back to the dealer you bought it from. They are legally bound under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 to provide that "goods delivered or sold must be of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose". First recourse is to give them the opportunity to sort it out. Regards John

Hi I would start by checking the Mega fuses. I think they are located on the side of the boot above the battery. Try following the Positive lead from the battery and you should find them. John

Hi Ashley Can you just clarify? When you say "it's all gone" do you mean the dipstick shows no oil in the engine? How much oil was on the ground? Is there any obvious leakage in the engine bay or under the car? Any warning lights? Did the engine sound normal before you stopped? Any smoke from the exhaust? Regards John

Hi Wynne I would be surprised if those were the correct size. Mine is 2013 on 19" wheels and takes 245/40s. That profile means you get less cushioning from the tyres in addition to incorrect speed reading etc. My choice is to go for an all season tyre. Absolute performance is slightly less than a summer tyre but as soon as the temperature gets below 8 C they are far better. Add a bit of snow or ice and they are in a different league. Michelin Cross Climates are traditional class leaders but I like the new Bridgestone Turanza 6 All Season as a good compromise. Pirelli Cinturato All Season SF3 are also well rated. Don't forget to buy online as you always get a better price. John

Hi David No experience of the XK but not dissimilar problem to one I encountered in my XF following a flat battery. Problem is probably the relevant module had it's software corrupted by the low voltage. One place that has been mentioned on the forums before who deal with this sort of issue by sorting the software is MDM in Coalville Leicestershire. Might be worth giving them a call: Phone: 01530 838666 Unit 4, Wylam Court, Telford Way, Stephenson Industrial Estate, Coalville LE67 3HP John

Hi David. If you can't leave the CTEK connected I presume yo would not be able to leave another charger connected either. Your CTEK probably needs more than a couple of hours to properly charge the battery and if it is going flat in 3/4 weeks a "beefier" charger would probably not help anyway. I would be looking at a solar charger to keep it topped up whilst you are away. Just make sure you use one with a maintainer module or it could overcharge the battery. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/43793/best-solar-chargers-car-batteries-2023 The other, longer term, fix is to check your car does not have an excessive quiescent drain such as an internal light staying on or one of the many computer modules failing to shut down properly John

Have you tried here: https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog/propeller-shaft-bearing-10939/jaguar/xf/xf-j05-cc9

I have been thinking about it and still think the problem is a jolt to a rotating part is setting off a resonance. But that requires sufficient freedom of movement to allow the parts to physically move so if it were the propshaft there should be play in the bearings / their mountings or the rubber / Universal joints themselves. Likewise in the driveshafts but the driveshafts do hve a built in abilty to move vertically at the wheel so possible more likely??? Do let us know how you get on. Good Luck.

First time I have heard anyone describe a Skoda S100 as lovely to drive 🙂 It was 988cc with a mighty 42bhp! Incredibly tail happy as the rear swing arms simply "tuck under" when cornering, HOWEVER you could fix it with a set of spanners. From your description I would be focusing on prop shaft and particulalry the UJs. Everything else is fixed, even if through rubber bushes, so should not be able to move without it being detectable at rest with a pry bar. If the Propshaft joints have even a little play they could vibrate and resonate like the tacoma narrows bridge (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacoma_Narrows_Bridge_(1940)) which sounds like what you are experiencing to me. Also that vibration could well have "bent" something to account for your suspension settings. Good luck John

.... OK so not just the 20" wheels then 🙂 That sounds like a nightmare. The shaking reminds me of my first car: A Skoda S100 rear engined beast with swing axle rear suspension that tried killing me on several occasions! One of which was due to a worn steering box where there was enough play to allow the front wheels to vibrate from side to side which did feel like the car was shaking itself to pieces. My problem is that yours passed the MOT which should have ruled out any loose parts. Have you had somebody drive behind you to check if there is any crabbing?

Hi Ian Have you tried custom made hoses such as: https://racingcult.co.uk/products/custom-pre-made-brake-hose.html?sku=&srsltid=AfmBOopNKzZix-m3pfOXb97jpR9byU5McB9JxiZxdlQ_xQq1HzEAz3_idmo Good luck John

....Looks like it is same process as in XF 🙂 Setup should take you to the appropriate security settings to enable just the perimeter alarm when on a ferry. PDF.js viewer.pdf

Hi Ray Not sure on the F Type but certainly can in the XF. It is an option in settings to disable the internal sensors. It automatically resets following the next start-up. It should be in your manual somewhere 🙂 John

Hi Karol Only suggestion I can make is have you thought it might just be due to having 20" wheels? I know you have tried 18" but those were with winter tyres. I have 19" wheels on my 2013 Sportbrake and recently went to Northern Ireland in it, with brand new Bridgestone Turanza 6 all seasons all round. I had to stop twice and check I didn't have a puncture as the road surface locally was clearly different to those in NW England and I felt I could feel every imperfection in the road 😞 I am sure the narrower side-walls on 20" wheels would only have exacerbated the issue. Is there anyway you could try a set of 18" wheels with decent summer tyres? Also could you clarify the problem? Feeling bumps: do you mean through the body - Front / back / steering? Any accomanying noises? Also I would understand wobble as a clear side to side shake, is that what you mean? Can you reliably repeat the issue by repeating a journey over a section of road at the same speed? Good Luck John