Big John

Hi Jack To be honest if you have had the car 4 years and not replaced the battery it is probably due a new one. Battery charger you have may be OK but personally I would be wary. Jaguars (like all modern premium cars) are a collection of computers and networks with a wheel at each corner. As such they use a LOT of electricity and get upset (refuse to work properly) when their supply gets a bit iffy. I use a CTEK Stop/Start which are about £80.... Voltage varies drastically. When fully shut down and sleeping voltage if fully charged should be 12.6v+. As soon as you unlock the car it can be drawing up to 20A so voltage drops quickly to not much over 12.2. When engine is running mine is about 14.8v

Hi Caio Those compression readings certainly suggest 2-3 cylinders with major problems 😞 Slightly concerned at the logic though as oil level is high and there is no mention of possible coolant contamination that caused the level to rise. Did you get a low oil warning and top up excessively? Were there any warning signs or symptoms prior to failure? Garage obviously think oil pressure loss caused issues but oil pump clearly still working as it could raise pressure. They therefore must think that oil level was way to low causing lose of pressure and thus the damage.... Do you have any DTC codes? Certainly sounds like engine needs a major stripdown to diagnose fully which may actually be more expensive than a replacement engine.... John

Hi Andy We need quite a bit more info to offer any help. Year, Engine, Price, Mileage, What do you mean by "Breathing really heavily", Have you read any error codes, Any warning lights, etc etc? Regards John

Hi Dawn https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/jaguar-xe-bluefire-76jxe002 Enjoy 🙂 John

Really glad you got it sorted.... and posted the resolution to help future users 🙂

Different part number but could be compatible.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-C2C42226P John

Hi John Just go to any of the usual website such as Halfords or Kwikfit, type in your reg and you will have the correct spec for your car. Regards John

Hi Glyn P245A is EGR valve. Ideally you need a fuller code from a reader than can identify the Jag speciffic suffix code but you probably have a gunged up EGR. This might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ta9zHS7JTc I decided, when I first bought mine, to try and use only Shell V diesel to try and minimise "carbon build-up" issues. 6 years and 60k later it has worked so far (touching wood as I write this). Hope that helps John

Hi Richard Welcome to the forum 🙂 Great choice of car. Personally I much prefer our era of the sportbrake as I think the later ones just don't seem to have quite the same good looks (still handsome, just not quite as good). Regards John

Hi Arthur. Sounds like a problem I had on wifes Pug 208 where there was a tiny leak in the fuel line leading to the high pressure pump allowing air into the system when allowed to stand overnight. Once started it was fine as the leak did not have time to allow sufficient air into the system to cause an issue. Regards John

These any good to you?: https://www.simplyperformance.com/shop/216-135-h-r-front-xj-sport-spring-40mm-216-135-96 Regards John

Hi Kevin. You need to give us a little more detail on engine type and size but whatever version you have you need to plug in a code reader to identify the problem. These are pretty cheap off ebay or amazon and easy to use. Once you have the codes, come back and there is probably someone will be able to advise. Regards John

...Time for a new one I think 🙂 John

Hope that helps. John

Hi John. Glad you got it sorted. And thank you for coming back to tell us how you got on, it really helps future visitors to be able to see issues and resolutions rather than issues and advice. 🙂 Yes batteries (not just AGM ones) are a consumable, and the battery in any modern car, including the XF has a heavy life running the network of computers and constant stop/starting. Personally I would always recomend using a battery maintainer (I use the CTek Stop/Start) weekly or at least monthly to maximise its life. Thanks again for updating us. John

Pretty sure the main battery showing its age can do all sorts including throwing the EML. How old is the main battery?

Not as far as I know. Have you read the codes? John

Hi Jessica My advice would be do not drive it until you have sorted the leak as you risk serious damage. The V8 is known to have issues with both its water pump and pipe work. Both are relatively cheap and easy to fix. The plastic fittings (such as elbows) used in the cooling system tend to crack with age so if one has gone you might want to consider replacing all of them at the same time for peace of mind. The S Type is a lovely car but it is 20 years old so if using as a daily driver you need to get ahead of the game and make sure you address issues as soon as they arise or ideally do the preventative maintenance to stop them arising in the first place. I hope you get it sorted and enjoy driving it as much as I enjoy my 21 yr old X Type. Regards John

Hi Plenty on ebay: Part no LR053666 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134611874934 Regards John

Hi John Assuming you manage to get to your next destination ok 🤞, I would be tempted to call out your breakdown cover people at that point as they should be able to at least give you a diagnosis and hopefully either sort it at the roadside or take it to someone who can before you need to move on to your next destination. Obviously when calling them, the light will have just come on for the first time 🙂 Good luck John

Hi John As Glyn said, you need to get the codes. Any garage will be able to get at least the basic codes (there are Jag specific ones that need a dedicated diagnostic computer) and will be able to give at least a general diagnosis. They will also be able to reset the EML. You should be able to buy a Code reader (they are about £30 on amazon or ebay but probably more if bought in a european equivalent of Halfords. Assuming that your issue is a simple one (they often are) simply being able to reset the code if it keeps coming on with your reader may allow you to finish the holiday and get home. As long as the car does not go into limp mode it should be fine to keep driving. Limp mode is designed to enable you to get to a garage.... I Think the german equivalent of Halfords is ATU. https://www.atu.de/ Good luck John

Hi Andy My guess is one of two possiblbilites. 1) Seat occupancy sensor not reconnected - Simply reconnect to sort it, or 2) Battery not disconnected before starting the job and a transient voltage event scrambled the SRS module when disconnected /reconnected.. In this case it is probably going to need a re-code for the module, or worst case a new module. First thing you need to do is to read the DTC codes (or get them read). Failing that, this (from another forum) may help... "the airbag light should come on for six seconds, then go out and stay out. If there's a fault, the light should come on for six seconds, then go out for two seconds, then flash the appropriate number of flashes for the fault, go off again for two seconds, then repeat the whole sequence five times. Finally the light stays on until the ignition is turned off. Eg; Flash code 16 would be shown as lamp ON for one occurence of 0.5 seconds, then lamp OFF for one second, followed by six occurences of lamp flashing ON/OFF for 0.5 seconds each (1 - 6). here is the list of codes i.e. the number of flashes that are seen, may help point you in the right direction 13 - Crash data memory full 16 - Pass seat weight sensor CAN fault 17 - Pass spatial sensor CAN fault 18 - Pass airbag deactivate lamp circuit fault 19 - Airbag circuit status fault - driver 21 - Airbag circuit status fault - pass 22 - Side Airbag circuit fault - driver 23 - Side Airbag circuit fault - pass 33 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - driver 34 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - pass 42 - Impact sensor circuit fault - front 43 - Impact sensor circuit fault - driver side 44 - Impact sensor circuit fault - pass side 51 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - driver 52 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - pass 53 - Airbag audible warning circuit fault 54 - RCM configuration failure" Please let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Keith. Propshaft bearing can produce that sort of symptom. You can try greasing rather than going straight for a replacement. These threads may be helpful: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/info-needed-greasing-prop-drive-shaft-68483/ https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/how-grease-replace-driveshaft-bearing-187890/ Regards John

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

This any good: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235536712669?itmmeta=01J34PT5KVDJ0P5JN5XY1CG93Z&hash=item36d71503dd:g:9BgAAOSwJc9mKjK4 Regards John