Big John

Hi Ray and welcome. Is it all doors that unlock with the emergency key or just the door you are using the key in? Will the other doors unlock from inside the car? This sort of issue is often caused by a low battery but may need a garage to sort once it has happened as the software can be corrupted. Some Jag main dealers seem to go straight to "you need to change 2 of the computer modules and that'll be £1000 please". However there are others (Jag dealers included) who will sort it much cheaper. Garages that use the Autologic computer system seem able to sort in minutes for less than £100. Basically they are able to put a new copy of the cars software into the corrupt module from one of the copies stored in the car itself. Let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi David Pretty sure there is a fault in the offside front ABS sensor or its wiring loom. Not an expert but my understanding is that the The Controller Area Network is how the various computers (modules) talk to each other and the Buses are how the "computer" bit of the module connects to the outside world, in this case the CAN. So those U0001- codes could indicate a fault in the module wiring, or just as likely a poor earth connection or even a low voltage event. Next step for me would be to see if the S/S is now working. If it is, I would get the ABS sensor sorted and have the codes cleared. Hopefully all sorted. If the S/S is still not working and you have a new main battery (hope you have swapped like for like i.e AGM for AGM) then have a look at the secondary one as the S/S only works if both can cope with the stop/restart process. The little one's job is to supply a steady voltage to the sensitive components during an engine restart which is handled by the big battery. If the last time the S/S worked the voltage from the little one dropped that might have caused the U0001 DTCs Finally if you have access to be able to regulalry use a charger I would invest in a Ctek for peace of mind. I also have the Ctek Battery sense bluetooth monitor on mine so I always know what the battery state is. Good luck John

Hi If you are getting 12.4 v on a cigarette lighter socket voltmeter with the car unlocked but not running the true resting voltage is probs 12.8v (fully charged). As soon as you unlock the car (and enable the socket) the car is drawing around 4 Amps and voltage drops significantly. As mentioned before, if S/S works battery is fine. I would be looking at an ABS wheel sensor as cause, along with a fault in the TPMS which luckily I don't have as they are very tempremental. One approach to sorting the TPMS is to over-inflate the tyres and then reduce pressures back to normal. If that does not work it is most likely a wheel Tyre pressure sender at fault. Systems like traction control rely on knowing how fast each wheel is turning, so a faulty ABS wheel sensor (which is what measures each wheels speed) will generate a fault which forces other functions that rely on its input to fail and throw a warning light so you know that function is not available. A failed parking sensor will switch off the reversing camera as well and alert you that you are "on your own" as there is a fault so don't blame us if you hit something when reversing! Good luck John

Hi The photos are from my 2013 XF Sportbrake, so yes it is really easy to see. In my case it was like that when I picked it up from the dealer at purchase. Whilst arranging to take it back for them to sort I found the way to sort it on the Internet. Kind regards John

Hi David First question would be does the stop / start work? If it does battery should be OK, If not then low battery, particulalry as you have not been doing decent journeys may well be the issue. Next on my list would be an ABS wheel sensor as if there is a problem in that systems lots of other things will not be able to work as they use the input from the wheel sensors. Good luck John

Hi Petrol and diesel pumps are different diameters. The flap is deployed automatically if you put a petrol pump into the diesel filler. As others have already said it is a simple fix using the yellow plastc tool stored on the battery. When you look down the filler there should be nothing much to see. If you see a bright yellow piece of plastic with the symbol of a manual on it you need to reset it. This video is on a Land Rover Disco but it is identical

Hi Access is by removing rear wheel and wheel arch liner. Diagrams and instructions are in the workshop manual available here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/2010XFRWorkshop.pdf page 1609 Good luck John

Hi Steph Fuel filter is certainly a possibility and cheap to do but it should have been changed at the last major service along with the air filter. My reasoning about a Jag diagnostic is that they will have SDD diagnostics rather than generic and from previous experience with Saabs there were sometimes issues that only the Saab Tech 2 system would report. Have you checked the batteries? Non functioning S/S suggests that there is an issue there and I am pretty sure that even when the car detects a problem itdoes not always throw a DTC. As I said before low voltages can cause all sorts of random issues so maybe worth investing in a cheap voltmeter. Regards John

Hi Amanda Welcome and sorry to hear of your problem. As Julie says it would really help to know more details of your model XF, XJ, S type etc and engine type and size. Often the cause for the Engine Malfunction light is emissions related such as a sensor or the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve getting clogged with soot. Have you noticed any loss of power (it will be noticeable if there is any)? What kind of journeys do you do? Just short trips or lots of motorway runs? The more you can tell us about the car and the symptoms the more likely it is that someone may be able to advise.. Kind regards John

Hi Glyn If you took the main battery voltage with the car unlocked your measured voltage will almost certainly be at least 0.2-0.3v below true resting voltage as the car starts drawing about 4A as soon as it wakes with an unlock. I use the Ctek Battery Sense Bluetooth monitor which at £50 odd is a bit OCD but at least I can then be sure of the battery state 🙂 Short (pardon the pun) of a battery terminal problem such as some corrosion it does sound like a fault in the Dual Battery Junction Box but one that can be lived with as the majority of owners seem to prefer S/S to not work anyway. I presume you have already checked for the "swimming pool" in the spare wheel well? John

Hi I feel your pain. After flat battery during lockdown I had non-operating rear doors, thankfully sorted under warranty. This has come up before on this forum and it sounds like there is a garage in Milton Keynes who seem better than most called E&E. Might be worth trying them. Previous thread is here: Good luck John

Hi Auxilliary battery is fine and the main is probably at 80% plus as it takes several hours to get a true resting voltage and the car can take a good 30mins to fully go to sleep. Good luck John

Hi That charger should be fine and should have picked up if the batteries were not able to hold charge (it is the one I have). Pretty well out of ideas after that so my next action would be to see if there are any DTCs. According to the workshop manual the car may have detected a fault which prevents the sytem working. However it seems in the absence of warning lights it is probably only a fault that effects S/S so may be one you can live with 🙂 John Fault Diagnosis The GWM performs passive and active diagnostics on the dual battery system to determine the status of the system components. Passive diagnostics can detect faults in the DBJB and can check for stuck open or closed contactors and failure of DBM contactor command signals. Active diagnostics is a routine to test the capability of the contactors to respond to open or close command signals sent from the GWM to the DBM. This routine also checks the FET's (Field Effect Transistors) activate as required. (Refer to Dual Battery Junction Box below for description of FET operation) The GWM will also check the dual battery system components for faults in a controlled environment when the generator is providing a charging output. This will ensure that the detection of a fault will not result in sensitive electrical loads being subjected to low voltage which may occur during an ECO stop/start with a fault present. The GWM will illuminate the charge warning indicator in the instrument cluster if fault is detected in the dual battery system which will result in a degraded power supply. If a fault is detected the GWM transmits a CAN message to inhibit ECO stop/start operation. In some cases it will record a DTC, display a warning message in instrument cluster and also illuminate charge warning indicator.

Hi Just re-read and missed you had charged both batteries. In that case forget the run as they should be charged (Is your charger suitable for AGM as they do have a different charging profile to straight Lead/Acid?). Next stage is check the actual voltages at rest. John

Hi I would be looking for at least an hours run with minimal electrical load such as a/c, lights etc as an absolute minimum. If you do not already have one I would also invest in a voltage meter (less than £10 on eBay) as it is quite possible your car is in the middle of a self test so is actively discharging rather than charging the battery. I would be looking at recording both battery voltages at rest (connect the voltmeter and lock the car then read 30 mins later after car has gone to sleep). The secondary battery should be at rest anyway so you should be able to just connect that one and read instantly. Let us know how you get on. John

Hi Just a thought but make sure you do not attach the earth directly to the battery terminal when charging as the BMS module is in the battery earth lead. If you attach directly to the battery terminal rather than a remote earth point there is no current flow through the BMS so it does not have an accurate idea of how charged the battery is. Let us know how you get on. John

Hi Have you also checked the auxilliary battery? If you are still on your original main battery both could well need replacing but still worth checking both before you do. What voltages do the batteries read? Has the stop/start just stopped working or has it been non-functional for a while? What sort of use are you doing? With the XF it is worth remembering that every 6 months or so it runs a self-test on the battery by deliberatley discharging the battery down to 75% charge (12.2v). This can run over several driving sessions. Not really sure I like it as always feel it will get to 75% just when I park at the airport for that holiday of a lifetime so I come back to a dead car. 😞 This can be the cause of the Stop/start not working. Stop start only works when the car is sure that there is enough charge in the main battery to restart the engine and enough in the auxilliary to safetly power all of the voltage sensitive components whilst the main one is busy trying to turn the engine over. Both need to be charged for Stop/Start to work. Secondary battery should just be a straight swap as it is only connected to the sensitive circuits it supplies during a stop/start event but does no harm to wire up a battery tender to keep a supply whilst changing the battery. The main battery should also just be a straight swap only needing resetting of parking brake and windows on re-connection.....BUT there are some horror stories of problems if you don't use a battery tender. If you do fit new ones make sure they are AGM, as ordinary ones, although a lot cheaper are very likely to fail within months as the charging system treats them as AGM and they do not like it 🙂 John

Hi Steph. If I were you I would bite the bullet and take it to a Jag dealer (I have done a quick google on Jag Indys near Newport but reviews are mixed) for a diagnostic. My local (Inchcape) charge about £120 for first hour but at least then you should know what you are dealing with. It seems odd to be in RP mode without any DTCs recorded and no warning lights. One possibility is that your garage did not have compatible diagnostic kit so were simply not picking up stored codes. When in RP is there any exhaust smoke? The fact that your Stop/Start does not work does suggest your battery charge is low as this only works when the car knows there is enough charge to re-start the car. These cars do hate low battery levels because of the masses of sensitive computer modules but I would be surprised if there were no DTCs Please let us know how you get on. Good luck. John

Hi Taken from Jag Workshop Manual for 2010-11 3.0 V6 Diesel available here: http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFElectricalOBDIICodes.htm P00BF-00 Description Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit Range/Performance - Air Flow Too High - No sub type information Possible Causes · Air leak at air intake system B · Harness failure - Mass air flow sensor circuit short circuit to power · Mass air flow sensor 2 failure Action · If this DTC is logged with P00BE-00, suspect boost air recirculation solenoid stuck open. · Refer to the relevant sections of the workshop manual and check the boost air recirculation solenoid circuit for short circuit to power, short circuit to ground, open circuit. Refer to the relevant sections of the workshop manual and check the induction system for air leaks · Check and install new boost air recirculation solenoid as required. · Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check mass air flow sensor 2 for short circuit to power. Repair harness as required. Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system clear all stored DTCs using the ‘Diagnosis Menu’ tab and retest · Check and install new mass air flow sensor 2 as required P00BF-07 Description · Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit Range/Performance - Air Flow Too High - Mechanical failures Possible Causes · Intake air system, high pressure boost leak Action · If this DTC is logged with P1247-00, P006A-00 & P00BF-07, suspect intake air system, high pressure boost leak

Hi Good description or repair and images from JagInfo.com forum: https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/fixing-the-water-in-the-boot-problem.21258/ Scroll through to post #3 and click on the image which should show some really good images of location. Not done it myself but apparently repair / replacement is possible from inside the car. If you do have a leak in the offside that is very close to a lot of electrics.... Apparently silicon sealant along the top of the light cluster where water runs down the gully from the roof alongside the tailgate can also help keep things dry inside. Good luck John

Hi My warranty-4-life cost £500 to set-up plus an annual service contract which includes full AA recovery and Jag service schedule. That costs just over £300 per year and gives a lot of peace-of-mind 🙂 Absolutley love the car after 3 years ownership. Have needed the warranty twice. Once for both rears doors permenantly locked with non working rear windows after I let the battery go flat in the first lockdown, and for parking assistance not working. The first sorted FOC no questions asked and the second repair attempted FOC with a new front sensor which did not work. Needed Jag to sort it but it was front bumper wiring loom (@£40 plus £100 labour) as wiring is one of the few exclusions. John

Hi IMHO the sportbrake is even more handsome than the saloon. Also I prefer the interior of the x250. It just feels a little more special. From personal experience I can recommend the warranty4life from Motorparks. Basically covers pretty well everything including electrics until car is 10yrs old or aver 100k miles. Only exclusions are standard for all warranties such as water ingress, bulbs, hinges etc. Only condition is you keep a service contract with the dealer which is not unreasonable price. https://www.motorparks.co.uk/warranty-4-life John

Hi Ideally you need the codes reading with a dedicated scanner as there will be another couple of digits after P00BD which would help identify the problem. If it is P00BD-67 possible causes are: Boost air solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Turbine intake solenoid leakage when closed Turbine intake solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Intake system high pressure bank 2 in mono turbo mode P00BD-00 possible causes are: Air leak at air intake system A Harness failure - Mass air flow sensor circuit short circuit to power Mass air flow sensor failure P00BD-07 possible causes are: Boost air solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Turbine intake solenoidleakage when closed Turbine intake solenoid stuck open Intake air system, blocked low pressure air intake. Good luck John

Hi Frank and welcome My guess would be that the low voltage caused by your alternator failure has corrupted the software in one or more modules. That is not as catastrophic as it sounds 🙂. Basically there are multiple computers or modules which all talk to each other to get the car to work. Just like a PC or phone sometimes the "system" need resetting. On a computer just restartting is often enough. In these cars you need a little more help, either with the Jaguar main dealer diagnostic tools or an independant with the right kit (Autologic systems seem to be the best). Hopefully it is just a case of hooking up the diagnostics which will then look for errors and repair these by overwritting the corrupt software in effected modules with a new copy. (My understanding is that the entire software code for your car is stored in 3 copies within the car). There is also a chance of course that the alternator failure may have physically damaged a module(s) in which case they need replacing and the car needs telling about this to get everything to work. As an example my battery went flat in the first lockdown. When the RAC got it going everything was fine but both rear doors were permenantly locked and the rear windows did not work. All sorted by the diagnostic kit at the supplying dealer (not Jag but under warranty) with no need for new modules. Hope that helps. John

Hi I agree with David and have the same set-up in mt XF Sportbrake. The CTEK stays in the boot along with the comfort lead which sits in the boot space permentantly attached to the battery. Just plug the charger into the comfort socket, plug in the charger to my extension socket and close the tailgate on the cable. I also use the CTEK battery sense which is left connected to the battery and then talks to the app on my phone by bluetooth so I always know battery state of charge and voltage. Very reassuring but perhaps a bit OCD 🙂 John