Big John

Hi Steve. FYI The P1000 PCM code can be thrown by a battery disconnection, or possibly low voltage and needs a Drive cycle to be completed to allow the Power Control Module to reset. Drive Cycle Instructions are normally to drive until everything is warmed up and use all the gears with a fairly aggressive right foot. Then leave the car overnight and hopefully it will have reset itself. The P1647 upstream O2 sensor fault refers to a sensor in the exhaust monitoring the Catalytic convertor, so probably worth getting a proper diagnostic on that whilst you are at the garage to avoid damaging the cat. Good luck John BTW the sills you can see from the roadside are plastic covers. The scarry bits are underneath 🙂

Hi Steve and welcome. First suspect would be a flat battery. Do you have any idea how old it is? A low battery charge is quite capable of throwing all sorts of fault codes and as the codes have not re-appeared that sounds the most likely cause. If you checked the battery just after you got home it may well have indicated a reasonable state of charge. I would give it a full charge and see how it goes. Only really serious problems are usually to do with rusting sills but there are replacements availble to weld in (Mine has been done and is covered in lanogaurd to keep it rust free.) Good luck John

Hi Nick Without recoding: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/xj-x350-2003-2010-coilover-shock-spring-kit.html or cheaper alternative: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354203796871?_skw=xj+spring+conversion&epid=7047144579&itmmeta=01JY7827ZCFRRN10CAVGKSP7N6&hash=item5278310587:g:lcoAAOSwvsplTgNR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eRTia%2B9aXD0yOY1pn5M6%2BFIttb1D%2B9WdyOqBcaijPmuGnIU7KZeYD44jmO%2BkhsJZAisvmn4GPpG%2FBs16ViWgdd7ivgKFeV3YLU1SAuEpqtdPTitkPuqtBs9e0Fr7mjR8bB8DcbWvXRVgvp5ZKpIBAE5WLo3LsFxjw2VRZMrWGOEcHlPlB5HKJjtmqIS4XYFeA4GdYlbbehvKqE7pJn5PmZply6rb6snez8NrhjgiNsSAlrAcdgFe80kI51wqedLVY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_r_iOjxZQ or this kit claims to include a module to sort the electrics as well... https://aeropik.eu/item/1929#:~:text=Arnott's Coil Spring Conversion Kit for the,kit also includes Arnott's patented (US Pat. Good luck John

Hi Gordon This might help: https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/ Good luck John

....Just make sure it is an AGM or it will almost certainly fail before you expect....

One here: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts.html/x-type-diesel-2005-2010-2-2d-automatic-drive-shaft-front-right.html ...or maybe here... https://www.rexbo.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft/jaguar-x-type-estate/31069-2-2-d Good luck John

Hi Tim This might help: https://autotechnician.co.uk/brake-servo-fault-finding-guide/ Good luck John

Hi Tim Found this on the jaguarforum.com site: "There is a common fault with the X Type that follows a brake bleed using the manual pedal pumping method. When the brake pedal goes to the floor during a pedal pump bleed, damage to the brake booster (servo) normally results. I personally suffered this following a full service at a garage that I had requested a complete brake fluid change be included. I specifically told them about the manual bleed problem and asked if they had a pressure bleeder. Although they did, the boss forgot to tell the mechanic and he manually bled them and detroyed the servo. One of the members here posted that adjustment to the push-rod between servo and master cylinder is possible and successfully cured his fault by winding in the push-rod to give some slack. Other members report putting a block of wood under the pedal to restrict pedal travel when pedal pump bleeding method is used. "Never allow the pedal to go all the way down." Symptoms include solidly locked on brakes and brakes that slowly begin to bind as you drive before locking up completely (like mine)." Not sure how that would damage the servo though....... Have you tried turning each road wheel when the brakes are locked on to see if it is all 4 or just one, or one circuit which is at fault? Good luck John

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Not sure but this might help:

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Hi Jon If turning the key results in nothing, a click or a start that sounds like the problem is the starter. I assume that you are not getting the engine to even turn over when it "fails to start". If the starter is actually turning the engine over at normal speed (every time you attempt to start) then you can rule it out as the problem. If not that is where I'd start. I would try to check the voltage reaching the starter when you turn the key either with a voltmeter or a test bulb. Regards John

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Jana It should simply slide back on. Open the fuel doorand then the cover should slide on. This is from an XF but I think the mechanism is the same. Good luck John

Hi Paul This might help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2006on.pdf John

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

Hi Lyn Common problem caused by dry contacts in the switch. Mine did it much more frequently in warm weather 🙂 Good video here shows how to sort it. regards John

...If the temperature outside is below 4C then it is simply working as it should. It is to warn you of possible icy conditions when driving, if warmer, then the outside temperature sensor is probably faulty, or there is a poor connection to it. My previous XF would intermittently show a temperature 11C below the real temp before the sensor was replaced. Not a big deal except Air Con also used that sensor to control the internal climate 🙂

....So not DPF 🙂 I would still advise looking at the codes as that should help you identify the problem. I assume there is no associated text shown in the info screen when the lights come on.... Regards John

Hi Kevin Your profile does not specify your fuel type but if it is diesel I think you may be looking at DPF full warning lights. If it is diesel it may be worth taking it for a run at 60mph for 30 minutes which should allow the dpf to regenerate but really I would advise getting the DTC codes read (really easy to do with a cheap reader from amazon, or any garage should be able to do it for you for less than £50. Regards John

Hi Kevin Can you post a photo, or at least give us a description, of the symbols that are showing amber and red? Regards John

Hi Matt Hard to see the details on the photos but the battery could well be the cause, although it looks like you now have several of the computer modules sulking and not talking to each other. This can happen if the battery voltage gets low and corrupts the software. My sportbrake had problems in lockdown when I left it for a month, battery went flat, jump started OK, but rear doors and windows were now permenantly locked 😞 I think the car "stores" 3 copies of the entire software in various modules and it is possible (if you know what you are doing and have the correct diagnostics) to repair the corrupted software with a "clean" copy. Apparently there is a place in Milton Keynes called E & E who are really good at clearing the codes and sorting the module issues. Obviously a long way from you, but might be worth a call. Otherwise I suggest a specialist with the Autologic diagnostics as they seem to get the best results. From previous threads on here if you go to Jaguar they just advise changing each "faulty" module with a VERY large invoice at the end. Good luck John

Hi Ava Personally I would leave well alone. On my X Type I fitted one of these in the Cigarette lighter and can now make and receive calls as well as play spotify on the car system for less than £20 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TFDPCT5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title John

Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John