Big John

Hi Tim Personally I have grave doubts about messing with the turbo and adding Mr Muscle! I would strongly advise a code reader before randomly trying things that might not be the problem anyway. I would either be buying a code reader from ebay / amazon or getting the codes read by a mechanic. From what you said it does not have an MOT so presumably getting it to a garage to have the codes read is an issue. You could try and book an MOT so that you could legally drive there to get the codes read? Good luck. ....they are great cars and well worth the effort of saving them 🙂

From your response, my guess would be a faulty injector. I would also check the smell / level of the engine oil as if an injector is not operatin g properly, excessive diesel may be being washed into the crankcase causing oil dilution. If the smell / level are OK hopefully the code reader will help. I assume you do not have a engine light on the dashboard?.....

Hi Tim This is mine: If you are getting a strong smell of diesel in the exhaust it could be what is causing the smoke. Have you got a code reader to check for the exact nature of the issue? If not they are only about £20 off ebay or amazon and would really help you get to the bottom of it. Good luck John

Hi Tim and welcome. For me you have not yet eliminated turbo issues. "White" smoke to me indicates either coolant in the exhaust from something like a cylinder head gasket leak or oil burning which can come from a whole host of places. I would start by checking coolant level and condition. Basically you are looking for falling level and/or oil contamination. If that all looks good I would be thinking oil smoke. I always used to try holding a white hanky over the exhaust when revving the engine to see what is actually coming out which might help. ....and just to be pessimistic whilst you are at ground level it is worth having a look at the state of the sills, not the outer painted plastic which will be fine but the metal underneath which are very prone to rust. Just part of the joy of X-Type ownership 🙂 Good luck, John

Personally I replaced my 2013 2,2 XF Sportbrake with an MB GLC 220D as the aircon would have cost around £2000 to fix (£30 TX valve, rest for labour!). I would have preferred to go for the newer XF sportbrake but was put off by the Ingenium engines which have a woeful reputation. The I pace does appeal to me, particularly if you are not bothered by depreciation as they are now available for a fraction of the "new" price although I am still nervous about EV battery longevity and "range anxiety".

Hi Steve. FYI The P1000 PCM code can be thrown by a battery disconnection, or possibly low voltage and needs a Drive cycle to be completed to allow the Power Control Module to reset. Drive Cycle Instructions are normally to drive until everything is warmed up and use all the gears with a fairly aggressive right foot. Then leave the car overnight and hopefully it will have reset itself. The P1647 upstream O2 sensor fault refers to a sensor in the exhaust monitoring the Catalytic convertor, so probably worth getting a proper diagnostic on that whilst you are at the garage to avoid damaging the cat. Good luck John BTW the sills you can see from the roadside are plastic covers. The scarry bits are underneath 🙂

Hi Steve and welcome. First suspect would be a flat battery. Do you have any idea how old it is? A low battery charge is quite capable of throwing all sorts of fault codes and as the codes have not re-appeared that sounds the most likely cause. If you checked the battery just after you got home it may well have indicated a reasonable state of charge. I would give it a full charge and see how it goes. Only really serious problems are usually to do with rusting sills but there are replacements availble to weld in (Mine has been done and is covered in lanogaurd to keep it rust free.) Good luck John

Hi Nick Without recoding: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/xj-x350-2003-2010-coilover-shock-spring-kit.html or cheaper alternative: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354203796871?_skw=xj+spring+conversion&epid=7047144579&itmmeta=01JY7827ZCFRRN10CAVGKSP7N6&hash=item5278310587:g:lcoAAOSwvsplTgNR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eRTia%2B9aXD0yOY1pn5M6%2BFIttb1D%2B9WdyOqBcaijPmuGnIU7KZeYD44jmO%2BkhsJZAisvmn4GPpG%2FBs16ViWgdd7ivgKFeV3YLU1SAuEpqtdPTitkPuqtBs9e0Fr7mjR8bB8DcbWvXRVgvp5ZKpIBAE5WLo3LsFxjw2VRZMrWGOEcHlPlB5HKJjtmqIS4XYFeA4GdYlbbehvKqE7pJn5PmZply6rb6snez8NrhjgiNsSAlrAcdgFe80kI51wqedLVY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_r_iOjxZQ or this kit claims to include a module to sort the electrics as well... https://aeropik.eu/item/1929#:~:text=Arnott's Coil Spring Conversion Kit for the,kit also includes Arnott's patented (US Pat. Good luck John

Hi Gordon This might help: https://www.lockingwheelnutkeys.co.uk/ Good luck John

....Just make sure it is an AGM or it will almost certainly fail before you expect....

One here: https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/jaguar-parts.html/x-type-diesel-2005-2010-2-2d-automatic-drive-shaft-front-right.html ...or maybe here... https://www.rexbo.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft/jaguar-x-type-estate/31069-2-2-d Good luck John

Hi Tim This might help: https://autotechnician.co.uk/brake-servo-fault-finding-guide/ Good luck John

Hi Tim Found this on the jaguarforum.com site: "There is a common fault with the X Type that follows a brake bleed using the manual pedal pumping method. When the brake pedal goes to the floor during a pedal pump bleed, damage to the brake booster (servo) normally results. I personally suffered this following a full service at a garage that I had requested a complete brake fluid change be included. I specifically told them about the manual bleed problem and asked if they had a pressure bleeder. Although they did, the boss forgot to tell the mechanic and he manually bled them and detroyed the servo. One of the members here posted that adjustment to the push-rod between servo and master cylinder is possible and successfully cured his fault by winding in the push-rod to give some slack. Other members report putting a block of wood under the pedal to restrict pedal travel when pedal pump bleeding method is used. "Never allow the pedal to go all the way down." Symptoms include solidly locked on brakes and brakes that slowly begin to bind as you drive before locking up completely (like mine)." Not sure how that would damage the servo though....... Have you tried turning each road wheel when the brakes are locked on to see if it is all 4 or just one, or one circuit which is at fault? Good luck John

Hi Fred Only 2 possibilities. It is either leaking: 1) externally, such as venting through the radiator cap as steam or through a leaking hose or radiator or heater core, all of which should be visible. 2) Internally, Either directly into the cylinder to be expelled through the exhaust, or into the lubrication system which should show as "mayonaise" in the oil. I would check the oil for signs of coolant (likewise coolant for signs of oil) and then recheck for leaks when standing still as that is a LOT to be losing without an external leak. Good luck John

Not sure but this might help:

Hi Jon Sounds right to me. If the starter is drawing current and fails to start in the normal time, repeated attempts will drop the battery voltage to a point where the computers start hallucinating 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Johnn

Hi Jon http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf You will find lots of useful stuff on the jagrepair.com site. Good Luck

Hi Jon If turning the key results in nothing, a click or a start that sounds like the problem is the starter. I assume that you are not getting the engine to even turn over when it "fails to start". If the starter is actually turning the engine over at normal speed (every time you attempt to start) then you can rule it out as the problem. If not that is where I'd start. I would try to check the voltage reaching the starter when you turn the key either with a voltmeter or a test bulb. Regards John

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Jana It should simply slide back on. Open the fuel doorand then the cover should slide on. This is from an XF but I think the mechanism is the same. Good luck John

Hi Paul This might help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2006on.pdf John

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

Hi Lyn Common problem caused by dry contacts in the switch. Mine did it much more frequently in warm weather 🙂 Good video here shows how to sort it. regards John

...If the temperature outside is below 4C then it is simply working as it should. It is to warn you of possible icy conditions when driving, if warmer, then the outside temperature sensor is probably faulty, or there is a poor connection to it. My previous XF would intermittently show a temperature 11C below the real temp before the sensor was replaced. Not a big deal except Air Con also used that sensor to control the internal climate 🙂

....So not DPF 🙂 I would still advise looking at the codes as that should help you identify the problem. I assume there is no associated text shown in the info screen when the lights come on.... Regards John