Big John

Hi Possibly due to your timing. The main battery takes a while to come back to its steady state voltage when a load is removed from it. If you unlocked the car and then opened the boot, the car will have "woken up" and started powering up various modules. If you then read the main battery voltage the car was probably drawing in excess of 10 Amps so the voltage will have dropped to 11.6v. If you then just left the car with the charger on the secondary battery that battery will have started charging. As time went on the car will have started shutting down the modules as you had not started it, but this can take quite a long time. If you then simply re-checked your main battery voltage without again unlocking the car the modules should all have been asleep, allowing the main battery to recover to 12.4v. However, 12.4v at rest is pretty low for an AGM battery so you could well be due a replacement for both. My 2013 Sportbrake is now on its second Secondary, and third main battery. J

Well done!

Hi. I think the above download needs a word of warning added. If you remove the DPF the car emissions will rise to a point where the car will probably fail an MOT (or other test if outside UK.). In addition a removed DPF is an automatic MOT fail. This link is from gov.uk website: https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/diesel-particulate-filters-protecting-the-environment-and-the-mots-integrity/ J

Hi Barry. Not sure on the 2018, but on mine (2013 2.2 Sportbrake Sport) simply lift the folding floor with the strap, then lift out the expanded foam cover which gives full access to the wheelwell. You should then have full access to the battery and no need for a qualified mechanic! When you connect your ctek CT5 (good choice 🙂 ) make sure the negative goes to an earth point on the car and not the battery terminal (Positive connects to the red terminal). If you connect the negative clamp directly to the battery you take the Battery Management System module out of the circuit so the car can get confused as it is not sure how much current has gone into and out of the battery.. Connecting to the chassis eliminates the issue. I would also recommend fitting the ctek extension cable which enables you to simply plug your CT5 into the extension socket in the boot without having to empty the boot everytime you want to top-up the charge (once a week). J

Hi Personally I'd go for a complete replacement harness https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|421:424| or https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|421:424| or even ebay. Price looks to be around the £50 mark. Good luck John

Hi Jon If it is still on its original battery it is probably due a replacement which I am afraid is not cheap as you must replace with the correct type which is probably an AGM rather than a wet cell or "normal" lead-acid battery. I would get the current battery checked first to see if it needs replacing, but then invest in a ctek. I have this one https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/ct5-start-stop-uk . This is really easy to use and optimised for AGM batteries. J

If your parking space is outside consider a solar maintainer, but make sure it is not just an unregulated solar panel. If money is not an object consider the Ctek Free (https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/vehicle-type/car/solar/cs-free) with optional solar panel (https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/vehicle-type/car/solar/solar-panel-charge-kit) but those are far from cheap 🙂

Hi Welcome to the "prowl" 🙂 Best advice I can give is if you are not using for long journeys every week get yourself a Ctek battery maintainer as, as with most modern "premium" cars they can flatten the battery at an alarming rate. I would suggest an overnight charge once a week will keep you purring happily. J

Hi Jaguar customer service should be able to help if you give them the VIN number Good luck J

...but it is always the Primary (Main) battery that actually turns the starter 🙂. The secondary battery is there to run voltage sensitive systems such as all of the computer modules that are liable to low voltage supply causing corruption (such as when that battery is trying to turn the starter of a big diesel engine in a stop/start). It is always the main battery that actually starts the car. The fuction of the secondary battery is to provide a stable voltage to the sensitive electronics during a stop start. However, if the car detects that either the primary (main) battery is too weak to carry out a re-start, or the secondary (little) battery is too weak to keep the computers supplied with a steady voltage, then the stop/start will not engage.

Hi Paul When the car gives a double beep it is t warn you that all doors are not locked. This is triggerred when a door fails to send an "I am locked" message to the computer. This would seem to be confirmed by the fact you can set off the alarm by opening the drivers door which should be locked. If you can hear the lock trying to work in that door it would indicate that the lock is trying to operate but cant achieve a full lock. Have you tried locking the door from inside using the lever and then trying to open it from outside? Is the lock lining up correctly with the latch? John

Hi Parking sensors and camera work together as a unit so if any part is faulty the whole system is shut down. This means if a single front bumper sensor does not work the whole system shuts down. You need to get the fault codes read as this will help locate the problem. When it happened to me the fault code showed the front offside sensor had failed. However fault was still present after this was replaced as the front bumper wiring loom was at fault and the code thrown will be for the failure of the component served by the faulty wiring. New front bumper wiring loom and the reversing camera came back to life 🙂. So get the codes read before doing anything else. John

Hi That looks like a 16 port OBD 2 to me, albeit a little bit beaten up. Just make sure your connector is the right way up and it should fit with a tiny bit of jiggling... Regards John

Hi Mullers. That is a difficult one as since the early 2000's ALL cars made in the EU (including the UK) had OBD2 with the standard 16 pin connector. Can you post a photo of your connector? John

Hi Kevin Straight back to the dealer you bought it from. The fact the traction control is kicking in indicates it is not just something you are feeling but a real issue that needs sorting. Good luck John

Really sorry to hear. I think I would be looking at a replacement engine from a non-JLR source which I suspect will cost a fraction of what you have been quoted. Just google F Pace replacement engine, there are plenty offering free quotes. Good luck

Hi Richard Where abouts in Yorkshire are you. I hate to see old cars not being cherished 🙂 John

Make sure you don't do the front windows / windscreen too dark or you will be stopped by the Police 😞

Hi Depends on what has actually failed. Does nothing work or only some bits? Is it all doors and boot/tailgate or just one or front/back? Do windows work? Kind regards John

Yes the connector the sensor plugs into is part of the front bumper wiring loom. My reading of the fault code is that it is the right inner sensor, so the one nearest the number plate on the right. I think you may have changed the right outer sensor. Good luck

Hi If changing the sensor doesnt work it is probably the front bumper wiring loom. To change either sensors or loom needs the bumper to be removed (not as big a job as it sounds but still likely to take a while!). J

On mine it was the front bumper wiring loom. Could equally be a dodgy parking sensor or a break in the camera wiring loom. The Park Assist and Camera work together as a system so if one bit stops working the car will shout at you to warn that you are on your own and Park Assist / Camera won't be working. Wiring Loom on mine was about £50 ish fitted by Jag Dealer.

Lots of short journeys, particularly with stop-start will quickly drain the battery. The cold will also be making the batteru weaker and the oil thicker/ resitance to turn-over greater. Slow turnover is because battery can't cope. These cars are basically dozens of computers wrapped in mechanics and they don't take kindly to low voltages which trigger erroneous error messages. Sometimes the low voltage can scramble one or more module so that they need re-programming but hopefully if you can get thet battery charged you chould be OK. Remember to attach the -ve cble of the charger to the car body NOT the battery terminal as there is a computer in the battery earth strap and the car will not recognise how much charge you have given the battery unless the current flows through the bttery control module at the end of the earth strap. Good luck John

Hi Phil 14.8 whilst driving is normal. Also be aware that occaisionally the car will enter a diagnostic mode and deliberately discharge the battery to 75% capacity by limiting charging voltage to 12.2v. It does this to test capability of the battery to fulfil a stop-start restart. My guess if the bluetooth monitor is over rearding slightly 🙂 John

Hi Barry. Given the temperatures this morning, battery issues would be top-of my list. Can you give some more detail on the non-start. Did the engine turn over at normal speed or was it sluggish? Have you tried a jump start? If you have a battery charger that would be my first port of call. How old is the battery? Has stop-start worked normally recently? Do you do lots of short journeys? Good luck John