mrmike

Thanks for the reply. I had a look at the fluid which is quite dark, not a good sign! I have a little gadget for checking soil dampness, after careful cleaning I tried it but it did not register anything. I tried a DVM on 20 MOhm and got a reading between 1.5 and 2,5 MOhm so I reckon there is definitely water in it. Checking on used engine oil produced no reading >20 MOhm ! Tap water (From local Desal plant) provided readings between 1 and 6 MOhm. Dot 4 is on the shopping list. BRs and fingers crossed , Mike

A couple of months ago I changed the front brake pads. After a day or two they had bedded in all OK. a few weeks ago I noticed that they had become a bit spongy and travel had increased, A quick pump stiffens them up. With engine running I can slowly floor the pedal, without the Engine running the pedal is rock hard and does not go down. One thing I notice that has changed is when I apply the park brake the pedal used to push up against my foot, now this does not happen. Fluid level is OK, car brakes in a straight line and ABS is working. Normally pedal going to the floor means master cylinder but it is solid, however there is more pedal travel than before. I do not know when the brake fluid was changed but I would think it was at least 5 years ago from the receipts that I have with the car. cheers Mike

Here is the complete A/C trouble shooting guide from Karl. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/epic-troubleshooting-guide-climate-control-how-185002/

I think your compressor will be OK, I doubt it has seen a great deal of use in the UK. My car has been in Madrid, Costa del sol and Costa blanca all its life. BTW did you find Karl's troubleshooting guide? The system is quite quirky! As Joe said 90% of the cases are covered by just a few parts. Some of the cheap DCCVs can also be defective new! Follow the guide and you won't go far wrong or waste money. Good luck Mike

Just one point regarding the DCCV control unit. Normal faults with the DCCV cause tracks to burn out on the control unit PCB and are clearly visible, Photos of this are plentiful. Other faults with the control module can be difficult to check as it uses a PCM type of system to open and close DCCVs. A voltmeter will not show this. An Oscilloscope or simpler still an LED with a 1K resistor in series can be connected across the individual DCCVs measuring on the connector on the end of the dashboard. Each time it flashes the relevant DCCV has opened and closed, allowing some hot coolant into the internal heat exchanger.

BTW what is your mileage, mine was about 210KKms (126,000 miles),

The DCCV is the most common, which also can cause the control unit to fail. I changed immediately the DCCV as you you do!! But after testing, the old one worked fine too. Follow the procedure in Karls guide and you won't go far wrong! The system is complicated! If you are unlucky In the end there are 2 components remaining. One will cost you about a grand to fix and the other one will probably mean you will take the car to a scrappy unless you are a real nutter or live in Alaska. Anyway after several weeks of tests and exchange of information with Karl. A visit to an A/C specialists with strobe and pressure tests the verdict was a tired compressor. Several indies made half hearted attempts to change the compressor only to call me after a couple of days saying it was too complicated. I did it myself in about 15 hours (Jaguar say 10), I would not do it again. The Manual is wrong and missing valuable information! Now I understand why most Indies refuse this job on the Diesel. The biggest complication on some of the petrol cars is to unbolt an engine mount and raise slightly the engine, a doddle!! Just like following the advice on batteries / connections etc, For S-Type A/C the Karl guide needs to be followed to the letter! I cannot under estimate the help I gained in ascertaining my problem using this guide. Hopefully you have a duff DCCV, poor connection or duff thermocouple etc. BTW there is also an OBD2 code which is false regarding an air distribution flap motor which doesn't exist on later models. Thats about all I remember of A/C fun from 2 yrs ago, I am now 73 and would not consider doing this again..................................

Check this out, Following Karls advice. Check kr98664. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/2005-s-type-2-7d-c-probs-234823/ This is quite long and you will find in it links to Karl's excellent guide along with the fault finding that was carried out resulting in the substitution of the A/C compressor this was back in July 2020 and I changed the compressor when it got cooler in the following spring. If you search on kr98664 (Karls's login you will probably find the guide. There is another one but it is not as complete. Good luck for a Cool Cat!

What do you mean by "Replaced Aircon valve" ? Which connector is in good clean condition? There is what amounts to an S-Type A/C system troubleshooting bible written by a guy in the states called Claus. I may have left a reference to it somewhere on here, otherwise check out the US Forum. We went through everything about a year ago lasting a couple of weeks. Unfortunately my problem was the Compressor. I hope your problem is simpler.

Mine had a new battery and I still had the occasional start-up prob, Soldering the cables to the lugs, Making the body connection as new solved it. Haven't seen it again in 2 years. As an aside, Previous Xenon headlight levelling problem solved by cleaning sensor contacts too. I have found most bugs are caused by poor electrical contacts.

Had the same probs plus parkbrake staying on. Check quality of battery connections at terminals and to bodywork including crimped cable to terminal lugs. How old is the battery? You can regularly charge an old battery and it seems Ok until the starter motor loads it. The Battery and its connection integrity are paramount on these cars.

HI Joe, Can you reset the parameters of the auto box with the LRV3 or is a visit to your local jag dealer still required?

I have a 2.7D and I use an Icarsoft 930 which so far has been excellent, covering almost everything. The only DTC which is always there is U3087? which someone told me was something to do with the Injectors, which are all OK, afaik.? There are later better versions of Icarsoft analysers with a few more Jag dealer tools. There are also some analysers with virtually full jag attributes/tools but rather more expensive I believe.

Disconnected the battery and did about 80Kms, Now I get just theP140A Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C circuit low. Accelerates really well, with no smoke of any sort, actually starts immediately and is much smoother. Averages 9L/100kms. Got crap weather here, storms all this week. But if I can put off painting orders from her indoors I might just make some Ally EGR blanking plates and gaskets for a test next week.

I concur with this having done it myself in an emergency. The correct bulbs are not always easily available especially in the local (Spain/Italy) Chinese shops. Mike

Get some "Good" contact / switch cleaner/lubricant, not cheap Chinese stuff. and spray and open and close the connectors a few times. Check also for bent pins/contacts.

Hi Joe, Hadn't realised that the bulbs were always live and were decked to turn them on. What sort of devil thought that out. Bit like the Spanish mains system. Pull their fuse and power still goes to your house because the fuse is in the return/neutral line.

Normally two dimmer lights flashing together means the that the earth side of the chosen bulb is missing and for whatever reason the Earth return for that bulb is via the 2nd bulb. If the 2 bulbs were equal brightness then there would be a S/C on the + side. Check the bulb holder carefully and measure with a tester from the body of the bulb to chassis. I just had another thought. I think the side pins are weird on the bulbs and someone may have tried to fit a differently oriented one, It can work temporarily as I have done it too in an emergency. Good luck. M

Hi Guys something maybe a little different, I know zero about diesels and the noises they make, They always seem to be like petrol engines about to give up the ghost. Anyway have a read and let me know what you think. Nearly a year ago I replaced the A/C compressor and everything seemed to be OK. No DTCs except for the odd Headlight levelling one soon to be sorted. Some time ago after the above job I noticed that the top Hose connecting to the Airbox was loose. I pushed it up and tightened it but I came loose quickly and I repeated the operation quite a few times, most of the time it was loose. During all this no DTCs even after several long trips of 3K Kms. Last week I found why the Hose was coming loose and tightened it properly. After noticing the missing Head Lamp dance, I checked the OBD DTCs, wow on top of the HL I got:- P140A Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C circuit low. P010C Mass or volume air flow B circuit Low. P010F Mass or volume air flow sensor A/B correlation. Before this I had had a little thrash on the motorway using good acceleration, much better than when the hose was loose, Always No smoke. I reset the DTCs and drove around locally for a couple of days and then checked again This time I got the P140A and P010C DTCs again. I am inclined to loosen the Hose again and see if it goes back to normal. Looking at airflow readings it looks OK. I have no lights or RP. Perhaps I just need to diss the battery and do a reset. BTW Turbo lag is quite noticeable on pulling away, I was thinking of blocking the EGRs at the MAP/butterfly inserting a simple plate without removing the hoses going to the EGRs. This is an easy test to do without any access probs. One doubt I did have when Remounting after the compressor change was whether I had not mixed up the MAF cables as it was possible!!

My 2005 2.7D has the 320mm discs

OK Joe, Looks good to me, I've already busted 1 connector, on the DCCV, I used a tiewrap to keep it together now. I tried With some long nose pliers but It didn't seem to budge. Obviously not enough pressure. I've, ordered some brake pads so while I do those I will check the sensor, resistance wise and if it seems OK, just clean the contacts and put it back together. Thanks for the info.

I have an intermittent problem with the Headlight Auto levelling system. Every month or 2, I see the Headlights are not doing their dance. I connect my OBD analyser and it says basically "Impossible position of front sensor" I reset the DTC and it is fine again for a fair period. I looked at the sensor but I can't see how the connector can be removed to clean the contacts. Given the age of the plastic I am always wary of breaking part of whatever clip system is used. I've already done it! Anyone know how the connector comes out?

I have a 2005 2.7D S-Type. I am looking for some front suspension ball joint rubber boots. I seem to remember someone talking about a Bulgarian company that had a good range at good prices Unfortunately buying anything from the UK at the moment is a disaster so EU suppliers are a must. If someone has already changed these they will know the size too. I have been getting a bit of a rumble from the front and after a driving a few kms, when going around around roundabouts I get a scraping noise. Appears to be the front hub bearings so While I change these I will do the brake pads and the perished lower ball joint boots too. Measurements externally with boot in place 23mm and 38mm so they are probably 20 mm and 35mm internally. I have a few others to replace too at the rear end, here (Spain), they don't fail you on the MOT if there is no play in the joint. Any suggestions?

Looks Like the Castrol Magnatec Stop Start A5 5w30 is the best, I have used Edge and usually change the oil and filter every 10-12K Kms, I've done 8K kms on the Castrol Edge now and have a 3K Kms trip to do. When I get back I will change it ready for the Summer. Oil level constant at about 3/4 on stick. This is a non DPF car. Thanks for the info. M

What is the best oil for 2.7D non DPF, I have been using Castrol Edge 05-30 but Norauto seems to think it is not right? They reckon an oil for Toyota is best!