mike_msch

No lights or obd codes, but today the car hesitated up a not so steep hill. I was in 4th doing about 30mph. The car behaved like it was misfiring. Im guessing that it was hesitating as i was in the wrong gear. But what i noticed after was the throttle was very sensitive to a point where i could hold a continuous speed. The car jerked if i came off the throttle or pressed it again. The map sensor had oil around it so i cleaned that. Just wondered what other sensors to look at. Also on occasions the revs go up a bit more than what they should when i press down the brake and clutch to slow down.

I have noticed recently that when i slow down and push the clutch down to change gear it revs up a bit. Its less than 1000rpm. I guess this is for smoother gear changes. However sometimes it can rev up just under 1000rpm when the clutch is pressed. No warnings have come up.

Thats good to know. Admiral insurance said they would not be interested to know about any oem parts fitted to the x type. I said that they would of been an optional extra and would of cost a bit more money. They argued that i could say the wheels came already fitted to the car. Optional oem extras are of no interest to them unless they have been modified i.e painted. Cant argue with that i guess.

What size wheels are available for the x type? Im sure there where 18 inch alloys on some as standard.

I really hope there is something.

Its been a week nearly since i have converted the twin exhaust to single. I have increase the tail pipe (which use to be the y pipe) by 1/2 inch and exits through a straight pipe. I have installed a second center muffler. Its a hks brand. The noise at idle and cold start is actually not too loud, nice little rumbble. Accelation noise also produces a more defining rumble. No lights on the dash board, mpg the same but low end acceleration is noticeable quicker. Im going to stick it on a dyno to see what is happening. Both stock cats are on so hopefully i have not interfered with emission levels. Declared on my insurance and its cost me £19.50 extra a year.

No worries. Hopefully it will be sorted. Nothing worse than driving and hearing noises from your car. If it is the drop links make sure your paying roughly £11 per side from euro car parts. Don't go any cheaper as they really do not last more than 2 months. If they find no play in any part of the suspension including the anti roll bar, then i would be inclined to get the drop links done anyway as its the cheapest fix and typical cause. If that does not rectify the issue then im afraid its time to get stuck in under the bonnet and shake the living daylights out of everything. Or just turn the radio up.

I would put my money on the front drop links. I have plenty experience with them knocking but not showing any play when there checked over.

Is re installing the y pipe difficult? I recently had the old one taken out and they cut it several times to finally remove it. I had a single pipe built and fitted which is now easier to take apart. The car seems to idle and drive better with one free flowing exhaust. The only issue i really have is i have lost the v6 rumble you get when you put your foot down. I could get a second pipe made for the other side but its £270 a time. The only other option would be to fit another mid section silencer.

Cheap £5 ebay ones seem ok. I use one that bluetooths to an app on my phone. Pointed me in the right direction when i had a abs fault.

Faulty thermostat or temp sensor. My thermostat was stuck open (luckily). But i did have the same symptom as you. A infrared thermometer gun will help. If the water temp is consistently about 100 degrees after 20 mins then it is your thermostat. However if your temp drops down to about 94 degrees and then raises back up to about 96 degrees (roughly) then you need a temp sensor. But first you will need to shop on amazon for a temperature gun (£17.99). Or just have both replaced.

I have just had most ofthe front suspension changed, springs, lower arms, arb bushes and drop links. I noticed the driver side is sitting 0.5mm lower than the other side. Could be uneven ground etc (i have not checked on flat surface yet). With all this work done the front driver side is making a very rare occasional knock noise over uneven surfaces and going down a speed hump. I looked into the cost of all the parts i just paid out on and did not notice that i only paid nearly £5 for one drop link. I think the average price for one link should be £15-20. Can a cheap drop link really wear out after 2 months?

Thats ok then. Mine was about £60 for all four wheels.

Had alignment done my x type. The front needed doing as i fitted new lower arms. But the rear left was out. Can the rear wheels be adjusted? I thought that they could not.

I need to replace the front lower arms on the jag. Has anyone done this themselves? Its not overly difficult but what im not keen on is removing or lowering sub frame (mechanic said this is the only way).

Could someone tell me if the front lower arm on a x type awd sport needs a complete replacement or just replace bushes. Plus what about the rear upper and lower arms? I need to replace the front bearings, so thought i may aswell replace what i can whilst the hub is off. Im amazed how cheap and easy this car is to work on.

One more quote to get. The hub does look easy to replace. Considering i have had those brakes off about hundred times, im sure a hub replacement wouldnt be time consuming.

Confirmed by mechanic. Quoted £224 to replace 1 bearing. Think that is a bit steep. Considering that a complete hub with bearing is £89 and is about 1 hours work. I need to shop around now

Finally chased down the problem. Jacked the front up and found its driver side bearing. Even though there is no play in the wheel, i can feel some vibration through the spring. All the other wheels are perfect and spin smoothly. Need new rear tyres as they are out of shape (still legal).

Car went through MOT with no advisories. I have been doing test runs on the same stretch of road for the last few days. It does get louder and quiter to non existence on certain parts of the road. I am still struggling to believe it is the tyres as the noise is similar to a worn wheel bearing. I guess process of elimination is next. Not keen on throwing money at the car. But what else can i do if a mechanic cant find anything.

Mid range tyres all round. Seemed hardly noticeable this morning. The roads where wet. Very confusing.

Thanks for your reply. All wheels are balanced. Apparently the tracking cant be altered.

I found that the x type 2.5 sport is generally noisy on the roads. Exhaust is nice and quite. Now i have had the suspension and wheel bearings checked over, prop shaft has been checked, brakes tested at the mot station and they are all perfect. No play or warping of discs. I have put new tyres on the front (tyre fitter said that some awd x types wear the insides of the front tyres quicky). Now my issue is a humming/knocking noise at 30-50mph. It is hardly noticeable on rough roads or driving up hill. Smooth roads are the worst. I did recently fit new front pads but left the original discs on as they are looking good. Any suggestions apart from turn the radio up?

Cheers. I was wondering if it is a awd issue

My front tyres on the x type awd have worn on inside after only 12 months. The suspension has been checked all over and is solid. I can only think the pressure is not right. Is this a common issue? Tracking is spot on too.